Sorry for the mediocre video. Enough people asked, I did my best. Cropped into a sliver to respect my neighbors privacy. It was a bit windy, but it's pretty much always windy here.
Small horn, I didn't want to drive crazy, so I'm not hitting full boost. Normal mode, no octane learning.
The small horn is my favorite. It sounds pretty unique, and seems louder under higher boost than the others.
Happy 4th to those of you in the US.
I'm releasing this blow off valve mod for the Elantra N.
This piece replaces the plastic tube that connects the BOV hose to the intake boot. It plugs the intake boot side to keep unfiltered air from entering, and allows the BOV side to vent to atmosphere.
4 horn options available for different sounds.
Uses factory hardware in the factory location, along with 2 small screws (M3x30) to hold the 2 printed pieces together.
Included is a detailed README with instructions, print setting/material recommendations, and pictures.
Shout out to Reddit users:
Select_Nectarine_772
Fierce_Deity24
They have printed, tested, and provided feedback on early versions of this project. This was a huge help. thanks again.
This might fit the VN or KN, but I haven't been able to verify. The factory connector on those is slightly angled. If you are interested in trying it out, shoot me a message and we will get you going if you are able to provide me the angle of that piece, or good enough pictures for me to measure the angle of the piece. I want to include pieces for these as well since they are very similar.
This is 43r (monolithic printed ammo) beginner slugs. Just about the wimpiest ammo available. Demonstrating the reloading process without any real equipment. I usually use better tools and a press for this stuff, just a demonstration for release to show how simple printed ammo can be for beginners.
P.S.
I don't recommend hammering ammo, or using a gun as a hammer in general.
Working on this blow off valve mod for the Elantra n. It uses factory hardware, in factory location, and vents to atmosphere. It's pretty loud, and only about $2 to make.
I don't ever plan on selling the design, it will be free to everyone once I finish the project up.
I've been running mine for about a month, a couple other EN owners have also tested it for me, and all seems well.
As far as I can tell, this should also work for the VN. I'm just looking for someone to test this to verify fit and function.
Does anyone know if it should fit? If so, anyone want to try it out?
Spiral vase and automated knock off is the way to go for 15mm.
This printer will run for the next 3 days like this.
Be safe, and happy early independence day.
Kid saw a truck pulling a trailer and thought it was awesome, so I had to make him one. I know nothing about building a trailer, but it's been working out well so far.
Compound springs in the shocks, aluminum 2020 frame, adjustable suspension/axle, hubs, spindles, ball bearings, lug nuts, the works. Tried to make everything modular so that I can make changes without much headache.
I don't think it would be good for it, but I stood on it and it held my weight, suspension bottoms out at about 130 lbs, but because of the compound springs, it doesn't bounce while empty.
Rubber bushing instead of ball hitch. It's just easier and rides gentler.
Its a little high right now, but a hitch adaptor is on the printer now. I plan on lifting this ride on a little when he gets old enough to ask for it.
I've also put it to good use as well. Went on our normal evening walk and used it to pick up trash along the roads along the way. Also have been hauling about 10 gallons of water around the house for the garden.
Kid loves it, it's already been handy, built out of spare parts/materials and cheap prints.
Last week I read about octane learning via holding 6 PSI of boost for a period of time. I had a road trip this weekend that was mainly interstate with a lot of long steep hills to climb.
Sure enough, slow down for the bottom of the hill below the speed limit if you have the space to do so. 6th gear, hold throttle so that it climbs the hill holding 6 PSI. Didn't even gain too much speed, I actually tried it on hills so that I could get it to work without driving like a maniac. Took 2 or 3 small hills each time, but sure enough, 18-19 PSI of boost, 300 ft/lbs of torque every time. Most of the time my car hits 260-270 torque, but before this weekend, I've only gotten it to learn properly 3 times.
This method probably won't work for everyone's driving situations, but I should have a route I take often to safely octane learn the car when I want.
Very rudimentary, but much cheaper and easier than an aftermarket BOV while keeping all factory hardware in place. 3 mins to install if you have a good pair of pliers and the factory hoses aren't stuck.
I don't care much about the turbo noises, but I do think it's fun to hear the BOV. These cars normally recirculate air from the factory BOV, but use a MAP sensor and don't throw codes with aftermarket VTA BOVs. Figured I would plug the intake and make an atmosphere vent in one go.
I don't recommend others doing it, but I made this one out of PETG. Last part I made with this PETG was a "noise generator" delete for a r55s mini Cooper. It has held up to boost, heat, and oil for quite a few years and is still fine. Not all PETG is the same, so don't follow my lead.
Don't really care about the turbo noises, just want to hear the BOV, and I'm a cheap ass.
This piece plugs the intake boot side,and allows the factory BOV to vent to atmosphere.
I've been running it like this for a few days and it's exactly what I was looking for. Nothing obnoxious, but I actually know that it's there.
I know that there will be people say that it will cause rich conditions, but with this car not having a MAF, and the BOV redirects so close to the filter that I don't think it will be an issue at all.
If there is any interest in this part, I'll upload it, free for anyone to use.
Saw a post earlier this week about it. Not the first time it's been brought up. Figured I would play with it.
Cartridge is 43R intermediate. Had to make the sabot long so that I didn't have to worry about the bit scraping the bore. Moving 1000-1200 fps.
The results were about what I expected. These are too long and skinny to be stable out of a smooth bore. Fired these Pretty close, all but one seemed to tumble. Everything that didn't hit the 2x4 sideways went completely through, but not through the laptop I set up behind it.
I stuck with the smaller Allen and torx bits because they are lighter, and I get better results with light/fast projectiles in this caliber.
If using a rifled barrel, you could probably get much better results. You will need something bigger than 30 caliber to fit these bits with a sabot. 38/357, .40, 10mm, 410, 45LC, and 44 spc/mag would probably be good fits for this type of project. The biggest problem being that most of these are "intended" for pistols, so these wouldn't be compliant with the law if used in pistol calibers.
Some of you have probably seen the development of 43R, a caliber that's intended to 3d printed and shot out of an off the shelf pipe. I have found an adequate parent case for this pipe as well, and it's been going great so far. Just a little plinking load for now, a single piece of 00 buck with a printed sabot. Sabot is heeled, as the pipe has no rifling or chamber. They go through a 4x4, haven't gotten to chrono them yet, but my guess is going to be somewhere around 1400-1500 fps.
I'll be testing them pretty thoroughly moving forward, and releasing process/loads if all goes well. I figured that you people would probably be more interested than the 3D2A crowd.
So, for Christmas I got my kid one of the "Blissride" branded 24V ride on jeeps. It is a pretty cheap product, but it meets my needs and he has a blast riding around on it. I am sure that this will fit some other models as well.
He is a rather small toddler, and I noticed that bumps seemed to make a pretty rough ride, even just around the yard. He's just not heavy enough to compress the suspension.
This mod replaces the rear springs with the original front ones. I used springs from Lowe's to replace the fronts. Ride height is not affected at all by this modification.
The softer springs made a massive difference in reducing the effects of bumps,.and the car performs much better on uneven terrain.
There is also provisions to add an additional spring, so as he gets heavier, I just add the new spring and do not have to make new parts.
PLA+ has held up very well, but I imagine that the summer heat might cause them to deform, so I have printed in PETG.
It has worked so well for me that I have uploaded it for anyone else interested in doing the same.
As the kid grows, and things on the car break/wear out, I will be designing and uploading more parts for this ride on. Next upgrade will be a proper wheel/tire setup once the original ones are trashed. Will get ball bearings, 2 piece wheels, with TPU tires.
File can be downloaded here.
https://odysee.com/@DesktopMachineShop:3/24V-Jeep-rear-suspension-mod-blissride:1