u/rekabis

This is even with a totally naked browser, with no anti-adware, anti-spyware, and anti-malware protections.

Somehow billing went through, but all cPanel services on my machine are now down due to nonpayment. So I need to sort this out, but I cannot log into the main cPanel account website even with a naked browser on a remote machine.

Confirmed: Machine not on the rate limited public IP, using Edge browser with zero plugins, using a correct login for the account, leads to a loginfailed query parameter and a perpetual cycling reload with an eventual Error 1015 Rate Limiting warning.

I have always kept a light finger on info around VPNs, and have a better-than-muggle knowledge of how they work. However, over the years many VPNs have had problems keeping data from “leaking” when the VPN is between a specific computer (which is making the resource request) and the service provider.

As such, would things be improved if the VPN is set up on the gateway/router? Because program requests are made from the computer, and the VPN isn’t actually on the computer, there is no way for a program to wiggle data out past the VPN’s walls. The request goes out through the router, which the program cannot affect in any fashion whatsoever, and the router then just bundles all communication indiscriminately through the VPN.

I have always kept a light finger on info around VPNs, and have a better-than-muggle knowledge of how they work. However, over the years many VPNs have had problems keeping data from “leaking” when the VPN is between a specific computer and the service provider.

As such, would things be improved if the VPN is set up on the gateway/router? Because program requests are made from the computer, and the VPN isn’t actually on the computer, there is no way for a program to wiggle data out past the VPN’s walls. The request goes out through the router, which the program cannot affect in any fashion whatsoever, and the router then just bundles all communication indiscriminately through the VPN.

I was able to successfully install OpenWRT - zero issues so far - by using the built-in D-Link upgrade tool. Quite a bit different than what the official instructions suggest, to say the least.

Question is, will this model be supported into the v25 range? Because I am getting the strange disconnect between what the site offers, and what the attended sysupgrade offers.

Plus, the attended sysupgrade doesn’t seem to work - clicking the “Request Firmware Image” button for v24.10.7 had the initial attempt lock up at 50%, and subsequent attempts has that button do nothing.

Attempting the v25 has an unsupported target: bcm53xx/generic as being unsupported or is still being built.

Just reported the ISBN to the ISBNDB website, because even that site didn’t recognize that ISBN number.

• Home Bakery - 50 recipies for delicious cakes, cookies, and pasteries
• Aimee Twigger
• Published 2022
• ISBN 9781912827756

I was trying to add it to BookCrawler, and it is the first time in something like 14 years that BookCrawler complained about not finding the data due to something other than user error.

How often does this happen?

So Prime Days kicked off yesterday up here in Canada. And I decided to look at a few “deals”.

Including storage.

So I pulled up the Samsung 9100 Pro 4Tb, and had absolute sticker shock.

Last year I bought four sticks for a RAID-10 array as a primary boot drive for my Dell Precision 7920. On two different Amazon sales, they cost me $399CAD apiece. So $1,600CAD before taxes got me a primary boot drive that screams like a bat out of hell -- Win11 Pro for Workstations (my system auto-upgraded from Pro due to my core count) takes all of about 15-20 seconds to fully load to the login screen once it gets past the UEFI BIOS. And there is a lot of shit that loads up with it.

Just took a look at the same piece, it’s “on sale” at $1,200CAD, having come down from a price of $1,850CAD.

So the “sale” price essentially tripled in cost.

I also looked at spinning-rust drives. I had bought a mess of WD Elements 18Tb External drives for my NAS, which when shucked, had white-label WD enterprise drives inside. Well, I have already chewed through my two cold spares, and now need extras.

What used to be $750CAD from Best Buy is now tickling the nards of a full grand. For an 18Tb. Even more, if you want just the drive and not an external drive that needs to be shucked, and which you don’t know what kind of 18Tb drive will be inside.

Plumping out systems used to be fun. It used to be affordable, depending on where your paycheque scaled that term.

And the worst part is, thanks to the AI datacentre build out, this may last into the 2030s. Because it is not just the AI Datacentres, but also the mass-surveillance systems that are piggybacking along for the build-out ride, and trying to hide in the shadows of AI. And even if the AI bubble is going to pop violently, this mass surveillance build-out is going to juice the build-outs for years to come. Capitalism demands wresting every cent of profit from every person out there, and will throw ungodly amounts of investments at building a very fat surveillance pipeline into their already obscenely overstuffed pockets.

For anyone still looking to upgrade or expand their compute to anything decently modern: my condolences. You are going to be shafted for a few years yet.

I have 50 year old concrete driveway. Not a 500 year old concrete driveway. Only 50 years old, so not even rough, rough; just the slightest bit pebbly. Yet on this driveway I have literally destroyed two wooden creepers - the kind with disk-shaped metal wheels at a 45° angle - attempting to get them to move while I am on them. And I am not a heavy guy.

I end up tearing the wheels off the creeper, and when I do successfully move, the wheels leave long scratches/scoring in the concrete and the substrate embedded in it as the wheels refuse to turn on the surface. The wheels themselves look like they have been through a sandblaster - which used rocks and boulders instead of sand. Heavily pitted and scraped up. And no, they rotate freely when I spin them.

I am hoping that someone, somewhere, makes a creeper with actually FUNCTIONAL wheels, like big fat rubber tires that are well outside the creeper so it can remain really close to the floor, like within a cm or three. Essentially, something that doesn’t need a floor that is so glass-smooth and polished and purely, perfectly flat that you could use it for an optical telescope. You know, a normal concrete floor. Not even tarmac, which can get bumpy as hell… just normal concrete.

Also something that is long enough for my body. I’m 189cm tall, and when I put my head on the headrest of most any creeper, my ass is scraping the ground beyond the end of the creeper. Who are these creepers made for, midgets? I would like to keep my ass on the creeper, not have it dragging on the ground. I just measured myself, and I’m 1.1m from the bottom of my arse to where my head should be resting on a headrest. Not the top of my head - the middle of my head.

So anything more than 1.1m long, and with big, fat, soft and squishy rubber tires, and which keeps me within a cm or three of the floor is exactly what I am looking for.

Suggestions?

From the late 90s and into the 2010s there was this one guy with a flatbed that would haul vehicles for a very cheap price… down to as little as ⅓ as much as a regular tow operation, especially if you paid cash.

The key thing being, he towed on his schedule, not yours. You told him where the vehicle was, where it had to go, and sometime within the next few days he swung by to load it up and take it to where it needed to be. If you wanted prompt or timely service, he pointed you to one of the other towing operations in town.

My parents made use of his service a number of times, but unfortunately my dad’s memory is nowhere near what it used to be, and he has totally forgotten about this guy, his name, or how to get a hold of him. And since my mom never dealt with him directly, she never learned that info - although she does remember the times we used his services.

So I’m asking here if he is still doing his thing, and how to get a hold of him if he is. I have an unregistered truck that needs to be yoinked from Peachland to Kelowna by Monday morning, and my own trailer is unavailable due to family.

Now granted, I am in Canada. But over the last three days, I have had a keystone-cop experience with two no-knock, no-doorbell delivery attempts (Monday, today) and one attempt made at a house four doors down from mine (yesterday). Which itself caused an “incorrect address / street does not exist” error message. No, they did not circle around or back up, and a blown Achilles tendon meant I couldn’t reach the driver in time.

Since it’s the third strike, it’s now showing as being returned to sender. I talked to Canadian support, and they are trying to have it held at a local distribution warehouse with actual public hours (albeit extremely limited).

But at this point I am just not trusting the system to do this. Mainly because I asked support to do this with each prior failure, and it hasn’t been done yet.

Because for both of the no-knock, no-doorbell attempts, I was in the house, within 8m of the front door. And I have a Belgian Malinois which is hyper-vigilant and frequently fires off at people passing by on the sidewalk. No way would she pass up a chance to go apeshite over a knock at the door, much less the doorbell going off.

“Frustrated” is a ridiculously understated condition at the moment. I am waiting for critical skid steer parts that are wholly unavailable in Canada, and which I needed weeks ago.

I know this is an odd request, but please bear with my frustration.

At this point, I am two shakes away from going onto eBay and ordering up 1,000 empty fob cases for car fob internals, just so I can replace what keeps shattering on mine - the plastic keyring loop that frequently is so tiny and tight that few keyrings can even turn around in that loop.

Honestly, I want a fob case that won’t need replacing every three to six months. Because the other 99% of the fob is still in fully functional condition - what breaks is that teeny tiny loop that the keyring fits through, and which is often so tiny that the keyring can only sit in one orientation… if it rotates, it cracks the fob.

Please note that I am talking about several different things here:

1. Keyring. The ring on which keys hang.
2. Fob case. The plastic outer case that attaches to the key ring, can be purchased by itself such that the internals can be transplanted into it.
3. Fob internals. The electronics, battery, and buttons that need a case enclosing it.

I have № 1 & 3. It’s № 2 that keeps shattering on me from everyday use. I haven’t had one last for more than 6 months at this rate. Which is why I am asking if anyone makes these out of milled stainless steel, so I can actually have something that lasts. Ideally with a loop that has a ⅛″ opening, and that itself is ⅛″ thick and can take upwards of several hundred kilos of pressure without deforming.

I am absolutely sick and tired of this disposable shit.

I have a 2002 Ford F-150, a 2000 Mazda 626, and a 2007 Chevy Equinox that all need milled stainless steel fob cases.