u/shartywaffles0069

My 5 year old is tall and big for the age, at the last appointment the doctor suggested we start on low carb. We’ve found this to be incredibly difficult, between my ex-wife and I try different things and our kiddo sneaking snacks. Figured I’d check here, anyone have any advice for this diet at such a young age? Because of the height it’s not bad, but bad enough.

I’ve been doing the diet and am down over 100 pounds, but it’s significantly more difficult to get a 5 year old involved on this…

My LBZ’s turbo has been on borrowed time for like 2 years, been clearing the codes a couple times a week, but now I have oil in the tail pipe so we all know what time it is. I was saving up to grab a DDP (Dan’s Diesel Performance) Stage 1 or Dominator 64mm, as it’s a drop-in no tune or mods necessary turbo. Just wanted to get something upgraded if I’m spending all that money and effort to swap it out, but I’m curious about smog. I’m not worried about a visual pass, but aside from the turbo not being legal in California, would the upgraded turbo do anything to make it not pass? Like upset the readiness monitors or anything stupid like that? Truck is stock aside from an S&B CAI and a Home Depot reroute. EGR in tact, and will remain so. Truck is a daily driver, tow semi-frequently, haul a lance camper about the same. It’s a dually on stock suspension. I don’t ever plan to get rid of this truck unless it gets totaled or I die. Going to buy a half ton gasser eventually so save the miles on her but I plan for her to be my life long hauler. Not doing a build, just trying to keep her alive and upgrade where it counts as needed as time goes on. No plans for big fuel, aside from a lift pump and slightly bigger injectors whenever the time comes.

Any of you smogged yours with an aftermarket turbo? Thanks in advance!

My LBZ’s turbo has been on borrowed time for like 2 years, been clearing the codes a couple times a week, but now I have oil in the tail pipe so we all know what time it is. I was saving up to grab a DDP (Dan’s Diesel Performance) Stage 1 or Dominator 64mm, as it’s a drop-in no tune or mods necessary turbo. Just wanted to get something upgraded if I’m spending all that money and effort to swap it out, but I’m curious about smog. I’m not worried about a visual pass, but aside from the turbo not being legal in California, would the upgraded turbo do anything to make it not pass? Like upset the readiness monitors or anything stupid like that? Truck is stock aside from an S&B CAI and a Home Depot reroute. EGR in tact, and will remain so. Truck is a daily driver, tow semi-frequently, haul a lance camper about the same. It’s a dually on stock suspension. I don’t ever plan to get rid of this truck unless it gets totaled or I die. Going to buy a half ton gasser eventually so save the miles on her but I plan for her to be my life long hauler. Not doing a build, just trying to keep her alive and upgrade where it counts as needed as time goes on. No plans for big fuel, aside from a lift pump and slightly bigger injectors whenever the time comes.

Any of you smogged yours with an aftermarket turbo? Thanks in advance!

In a rental apartment, the shower grab handle is a 7/8” metal bar. Last year water leaked through around the bar into the wall and rained down on the first floor. I ordered the plastic bushings to replace them, when I pulled it apart, I found that the hole in the shower wall is also 7/8”, and it was just sitting in the hole with painters tape on the ends and silicone around it, which obviously had failed, the new bushings need room to fit in, so my option was either hole saw and open the hole a little or find a cap, since it’s a rental, and the hole closest to the corner had a piece of wood backer directly behind the opening for support and to keep the bar in place, I decided to go looking for a cap. I found a plastic cap at a plumbing supply house that popped into the hole securely and I put a little caulking around the edge, as there was no seal, just a flat plastic edge. My ex wife called the other day and said it happened again, and I found that the plastic cap was cracked, pretty sure our kiddo is just playing bath time too hard, and likes to grab the handheld shower nozzle and spray it at the wall. I am now about to order a pack of 7/8” hole plugs on amazon, silicone rubber. I’ll pop them in and do another dab of caulking. Just curious though, would I be better off grabbing a hole saw and just opening the hole enough to snap the proper fittings in and replacing the grab bar? We had done a maintenance request with the property management, the maintenance guy wanted to just put tape over the holes and silicone over it 😠 I would really rather get this handled correctly and permanently this time around before the shower ruins the ceiling downstairs. Curious about other opinions/recommendations.

Thank you!

I have been banking with Unify Financial Credit Union for 3 years, they have been great. I have never had any credit products from them, and they were not a part of my bankruptcy. Unify has now merged with and become Community America Credit Union, I hear they’re a great CU and I’ve read tons of praise. As I move through my rebuild, I became curious, but haven’t been able to find anything as of yet. Has anyone had any luck with credit cards or auto loans with them after a bankruptcy discharge? My income is decent, and my rebuild is going good, and I don’t plan on applying for anything any time soon, but just curious how they are after a discharge. I burned Navy Fed for a lot, so they’re out. Considering trying to get into Pen Fed as well, but for now wondering how it looks over at CACU.

Thanks in advance!

I drive a crew cab dually pickup full time, 85 miles round trip every day for work. With diesel being so expensive, it’s been rough. I don’t ever plan to get rid of the truck, so now I’m thinking it’s time to find me a cheap beater, but before I go looking around figured I’d ask.

I don’t do Kia or Hyundai.

What else is everyone driving that they actually fit comfortably in? I was offered a smoking deal on a 2007 dodge grand caravan, but I used to own one and it ate two transmissions before 150k, it being a dodge n all… I’m looking for a small suv or mini van I think, though a Camry wouldn’t be bad either. My ex had a 2011 Mazda 3 I liked driving buuuut it too broke early… so let’s hear recommendations!

I’ve been out of the off-road game for a long time, recently I went on a weekend trail ride with friends in their trucks, and had an absolute blast. I’ve got the bug again! Brought my kid too and it was her first time and she had an absolute blast, so she’s got the bug too lol. My last off-road truck was a square body suburban on tons and 37’s, it was great on trails, but it was old and tired, leaked everything but gas lol. When I blew the trans, i was having money issues, so ultimately it along with my boat and camper got sold off. I’m doing a lot better now, and recently paid off my daily duramax too.

I barely fit in that suburban, as I’m super tall and heavy, I had sold my k5 for that reason and upgraded to the suburban. On that trail ride weekend I rode in a K5, a jeep JL, a single cab 80’s F250, and a crew cab 2500HD. I drove the JL briefly, super tight for me. Drove the Ford, was okay but not super comfortable. I drove the 2500HD as well and felt right at home (obviously, my daily is a 1 ton LBZ Duramax lol). I poked around marketplace, there’s a lot out there but some of these guys are on crack with what they want for absolute shitboxes. Yesterday I came across an 05 GMC 2500HD CCSB with a 6.0 with a for sale sign in the window, with a blown head gasket for super cheap. It’s on 35’s, it’s got the cloth interior with jump seat I would want, the tcase is fresh, axles are geared 4.56, even has a smog cert from a few months before the head gasket blew. It has a BDS 7” on it as well. Dudes in the military and out of town for a few more weeks, but his wife met with me to show it today. It’s super clean minus paint peel and cracked windshield, and I happen to have a bunch of parts in storage, including a 6.0 head gasket kit from my old work truck that I ended up selling before I fixed it. It would be a perfect project. Can literally spend a weekend pulling a junkyard motor and freshening it up, or just do heads and run it. It does have 284k miles on it, but it’s gonna be for fun only so if I blow something up I can just park it and hit the junkyard lol

But, I love my Duramax’s, I’ve done a lot of work on them over the years, and have even more parts for LLY and LBZ in storage. But, I’ll be out a lot more money if I blew a head gasket, or a turbo, fuel system, etc, and there’s just so much extra stuff to worry about, I’m really leaning towards that 6.0 truck. If I decided to grab it, I could get it going quickly and start playing. But the duramax on the trail would just be a blast I think… blaaaah, I’m torn! It doesn’t help that there’s a dude in my work area with a SAS LB7 Duramax and I see it every day, makes me super jelly..

What’re your thoughts on it guys? I also would consider a 93-94 Chevy but if I went with that era I’d prolly end up with a suburban since otherwise I’d be in a CCLB, and I fit well, love that era interior, and again, got a lot of parts for em lol. But, most of those are clapped out, with way more issues to solve. I wish older rigs had more room, but I’ve tried a lot of em they just don’t do it for me 🫩

Anyways, thanks for reading and indulging in my planned terrible financial decisions. Cheers! 🫡

Hi guys… so I have to book a flight out of LAX for next month, looks like it’s gonna be a 757-300. The last time I was on a plane was a 737 new years 2017, been a long time! This would be my first time to ever fly on a 757… I’m almost 7 feet tall, 350 pounds, size 18 shoe. Previously I’ve always just aimed to get an aisle seat the front of the cabin, or an emergency exit row aisle seat. I was wondering if anyone knew the best seat on a Delta 757-300 for big guys like me for before I book my ticket? Can’t afford first class 🙃

I’m heavy but not fat where I need two seats. In fact, back in 2017, I was almost 410 pounds, i hit 345 this week on my weight loss journey lol.

Any insight would be much appreciated! Thank you!

My truck came with an alpine non-disk double din, with Fosgate amps. It came factory with a Bose system. Whoever did this install did it in my opinion pin as a hack job. I just took it all apart because my power wire for the new alpine was cutting out on bumps. Previous owner did a terrible solder job off the ignition wire. Gonna unwrap it and re solder it, then I found the in line fuse was just two terminals on either end of a 15 amp blade fuse with some electrical tape… thinking I just need to redo the power wire and add an inline fuse holder, but when I installed my new unit everything was scattered about inside the dash… wondering if it’s worth ripping it all out and starting from scratch? Or just so the power wire and call it a day?

I have an older Rockford Amp in my truck for my sub, it failed a few months ago and I just hadn’t gotten around to replacing it. Sometime recently (don’t remember when it started) I developed a power draw killing my batteries (Duramax diesel pickup) after a few days. I finally had time this morning so I checked amps at the battery. With the power cables for both my amps removed, I have 0.005 milliamps of draw, with my power cables hooked up, I have 2.51 amps of draw 🫩 hooked everything back up and checked my amps, both are shut off with the truck off, checked voltage at the remote wire at both amps, no power, fired truck up, both amps turn on (sub amp is in protect mode). So I’m assuming an internal failure of my sub amp is indeed the culprit. My amp cables are crimped together in one terminal so I can’t only have one hooked up at the battery, I have to move a bunch of stuff to get at the power cable for the bad amp so I’m not going to at this time, but when I have more time I will do so.

The way I’m wired, the remote wire comes into the sub amp first, and then I have a second remote wire twisted together with it into the remote wire connection, with jumps off and runs to my speaker amp, which is working just fine. So I’m just going to order a new amp and call it a day.

Can anyone give me any good alternative possible causes of this amp draw from my amp power cables? Or am I pretty much right on the money to say that my dead amp is drawing amps even without the remote wire energized?

Thanks fellas!

I’m 6’10”, 355 pounds. Down from a max of 425. Used to get 50” and then 48” waist dickies shorts with 15” inseam, found them at my local uniform supply, they always had navy blue gray and heather gray. Now that I’m 46” I went looking today and they didn’t have an 15”, only 13”. Tried them on and they sit a tad above my knee. I asked about ordering 15” inseam and they said they have been but haven’t gotten any in almost a year. Really bummed me out. I looked online and they only have Navy blue available. I did order a pair, but I’m looking for other options. Everywhere I’ve seen them is either cheap china junk with mixed to bad reviews, or 10-13” inseam. In the old days I just bought double knee pants from dickies and had them cut and hemmed. Am I really stuck doing that? Or does anyone have any recommendations? I’ve got a goal to be under 300 by new years, 250 pounds by lake season next year, so I’ll end up replacing them, but I’m looking for some new shorts for summer.

Anyways, thanks for reading.