r/ElectricalHelp

Some of the electronics in my apartment have been acting a little funky. For example, my Xbox just won't turn on now. I had to get a new laptop. Lastly, I had to get a new microwave because our microwave just stopped working.

I went to go check the outlets in the kitchen. I've attached the video here. Can someone tell me, from an electrician's perspective, how bad this is before I get a Tasker to come over here and help out?

Thanks in advance

Hi all,

I have a campervan with an AGM leisure battery and electrical system I installed myself (system itself was designed by a company). Everything has been working fine apart from my charging system from the starter battery. Old non-smart alternator therefore I installed a VSR (voltage sensitive relay) for battery to battery charging. So I have a thick cable directly connecting my starter battery positive to leisure battery positive via the VSR and 2 high ampage fuses. This initially worked great, when I turned the engine on I could see the voltage of my leisure system jump up to 14.2V. 6 months down the line its stopped working and I've no idea why, I've tried the following:

- tested ground connection for starter battery with engine off and on, looks good.

- tested ground connection for leisure battery, looks good.

- tested the end of the cable (including the 2 fuses but not the VSR) run going to leisure battery against ground, reading 14.2V.

- above test implies to me the fuses are good. Also swapped in different fuses, no difference.

- tried bypassing the VSR and connecting the +ve cable from starter directly to +ve terminal of leisure battery but no change, still read 12.5v across leisure battery terminals.

I'm now completely out of ideas. Possibly an issue with the battery? Or a ground connection? Please help!

I'm in Asia, and everything is run Black / Black wires so you cannot tell which is hot. Is there any impact for the flip/flop of the 0v line vs 220v line? They don't seem to be concerned here...

EDIT/UPDATE: I found the culprit. I have a Hayward HeatPro pool heater that is doing something every 4-7 minutes, making a buzzing sound at the unit and a buzzing sound at the breaker box. I killed the unit's dedicated power at the shutoff valve by the pool and it's stopped. So, not a RI Energy or Transformer issue.

It just started recently. I noticed every couple minutes the lights start slightly flickering and dimming. I’m in an area that is going through a heat wave right now but there’s not a ton of stuff running at this moment. I use Sense to understand what’s running in the house and I don’t see any spikes or abnormal usage when these flashes happen what could possibly be happening? I’m trying to figure out if this is a potentially dangerous situation.

Looking for some guidance here -

About 6 years ago we added a pool, and fed the pool shed with 2x 100A panels, each coming off of a different one of the main home's 200A panels. The pool has some heavy loads, including 4x 3HP pumps, and a heat pump, plus other stuff.

Ever since adding these loads, whenever all of the pumps are on at once - lights on the other end of the house start to flicker noticeably. These are basic LED bulbs on dumb switches.

Any thoughts on what could be going on?

I’m installing an AC disconnect for a mini split. The disconnect is going to be within 5 feet of the panel and I plan on running the wire through the wall directly into the back of the disconnect switch. Can I run Romex 12/2 from the panel to the disconnect? Or should I run THHN/THWN from the panel since disconnects aren’t waterproof?

Anyone know why none of my bathrooms or backyard sockets would not work? I replaced the GFCI one that connects them, but they are still not working. Should I replace the regular ones too? Want to troubleshoot myself before I call an electrician.

EDIT: I will recheck the connections to the GFCI outlet we replaced. If I’m still having issues, I will replace the regular outlets on that circuit. Thank you everyone. I will update with results.

Hi,

I have a strange issue and i hit a wall and cannot solve, need help:

I installed a 12V DC landscape lighting system (10 LED fixtures). Power is supplied by a 60W DEWENWILS transformer (also tested a 100W unit from another brand). When the lights are ON, my garage door remote range drops from 300+ ft to ~50 ft, and the door randomly opens on its own at night.

What I've tested:

• Lights OFF → remote works fine (300+ ft)
• 2 LEDs only → works fine (~250 ft, no random openings)
• 4 LEDs → range drops to ~30-50 ft, random openings occur
• 6+ LEDs → remote barely works, random openings continue
• All 10 LEDs → nothing works!
• Installed ferrite cores on the 12V output and each branch → no change
• Extended the opener's antenna using coax (center conductor exposed, shield grounded) → range improved slightly, but random openings persist
• Swapped transformer (60W → 100W, different brand) → no change

The issue:
The problem seems to scale with the number of LEDs connected. The random opening is the main concern—I can live with reduced range, but I cannot have the door opening by itself.

Goal:
I need to stop the random openings without replacing the entire system. I'm open to suggestions.

Setup:

• Opener: LiftMaster/Chamberlain (rolling code, 315/390 MHz)
• Transformer: 60W 12V DC (DEWENWILS) / 100W DC (other brand)
• LEDs: Standard 12V landscape spotlights (integrated driver) (Aiwewin 12 Pack 6W Landscape Lighting - B0CNK5435Y)
• Location: Lights are mounted on exterior walls and soffits, surrounding the garage on 3 sides

Thanks...

I’ve been looking for an extension cord with the exact match but I’ve only find 125 volt not 115 volt, I’m wondering if it’s safe to use to avoid any risk

Looking for help fixing light issues with my 2003 chevy express 3500. It was made into a prison bus before I bought it last year. I renovated it into a mobile home for travelling. Currently the high mount brake lights in the rear are not working, I replaced the bulbs and the fuse under the drivers seat. The reverse lights in the rear are also not working and replaced bulbs and fuse as well. One of three high mount front light is out, bulbs and fuse were also replaced. I did have the license plate light out but after changing bulb and fused that one worked. I need all these lights to work to pass a NYS inspection. Any tips?

under drivers seat fuses 13,4,16,6,14,19,20,21,22 and
under hood 28,3,4,9,10,42,43,44,45, fuses reading 0v but pass the beep test
wires from ignition red pink and orange all at 12v