u/simracerman

I have ~2 years worth of chats in OpenwebUI, and exported as .json 500MB file.

Unsloth only accepts .json L file, and a max size of 64MB. for long term OWUI users like me, transitioning is a but mundane. Any way to improve this import will make Unsloth Desktop much more attractive 🙂

Noticed with small parking lot speed humps that my BZ makes a small clunk noise when I drive over those, at anything faster than 2 miles/hr.

Comes from the front end, and it sounds a little like the coolant in the two reservoirs is shaking, but am not sure. Noticeable when AC fan is off mostly. I haven’t done my first 5k service yet, but it’s coming up soon. Tempted to put a GoPro or something under the hood to monitor this. It sounds like suspension, but could just be water jiggling around in the small reservoirs.

Anyone else hears this?

Anyone drove their 2026 BZ 10,000+ miles? Curious since I put 3k in the past 2 months. my lifetime average efficiency is 5.1 miles/kW.

On hot days I want to start my car remotely to precondition it with the climate settings. I never had the 12v Battery issues, but not looking to trigger any of them either.

Does the car charge the 12v battery when you remote start it via the app or the keyfob?

First time EV owner of a 2026 Toyota BZ with about 3k miles put in the last 8 weeks. There's so much I had to learn, and re-evaluate when it came to researching EVs, trusting car reviewers and their opinions about the new technology. I've been driving ICE cars for 20+ years, and DiY all of my maintenance and most car repairs at home, and feel quite comfortable working on most ICE OEMs. When I opened the hood of my BZ at the test drive, it scared me a bit. So many alien looking parts, and orange cables that gave me a pause. After learning what these parts are, what they do, and how they're all interconnected, it hit me.. Most ICE car reviewers are not qualified to provide a useful opinion, but they give it anyway with most people taking their word for it.

Quick example is the CarCareNut who is a certified Toyota Master Technician with a decade+ experience. He reviewed the BZ, and knocked it down in many ways, it discouraged me from pursuing it. Thinking about it, an ICE mechanic feels like a software engineer with AI threatening their job. EVs have significantly less parts than ICE it truly is concerning. Quick comparison to put things in perspective:

- roughly 2,000 moving parts in the engine and drivetrain combined

- Major wear/failure-prone systems like engine block, pistons, valves, timing belt/chain, fuel injectors, fuel pump, exhaust system, catalytic converter, radiator, water pump, alternator, starter motor, spark plugs, oil filter, air filter, muffler, and transmissions

- Even when nothing goes wrong, you still need constant maintenance. engine oil, oil filter, transmission fluid, coolant, spark plugs, timing belt (interval-based), exhaust components

EVs on the other side:

- About 20 moving parts in the motor and single-speed gearbox

- Motor is sealed with e-Axle oil that needs a replacement maybe once in its lifetime at 120-150k miles

- No exhaust, no fuel system, no spark plugs, no timing belt, no alternator/starter

- What's left to fail? Motor bearings, reduction gearbox, inverter/power electronics, battery pack (cells, BMS, cooling loop), 12V battery, brakes (last longer thanks to regen), suspension, tires

- Large battery pack failure is already established as rare during the 100k miles or 10 years of warranty. Beyond that, we have data to indicate that complete failure is even more rare, and most commonly experiences range fade than anything. At which point, the car is too old to worry about resale value

Genuinely thinking, what would the future of car mechanics be as more EVs are sold and less ICE cars are around to repair. I'm hopeful that more will educate themselves to understand how EVs work, but sadly we won't need all of them. In fact, we can get by without the majority of dealership service centers and independent shops out there.

My BZ XLE Plus was made in late April and I got it the first week of June. I have about 1,900 miles on it and haven't had any 12v battery issues yet. I drive it daily for commuting, errands, and a few 3-4 hour trips. The only time it sat was for the last 8 days while I was on an out of state trip, and I left it parked in my garage.

I’ve had the Toyota app active since day one. I use the Digital Key but turned it off shortly after getting the car, and I keep my two physical keys in Faraday cages. I’ve been monitoring the 12v battery voltage because of all the posts here, and it seems like the BMS doesn't charge it aggressively. It usually stays under 75% and the voltage can sag to around 12.05v. Even after my trip, everything worked perfectly when I got back. No low battery warnings or anything.

I did decide to deactivate DCM on day 4 of my trip to be safe. I don't know if that would have actually changed anything, but I was reading everyone's experiences here and wanted to be cautious. I don't have a battery monitor, so I can't see if the voltage dropped below 12v, but the car seems to top it up when it needs to. I left the traction battery at 50%, and 8 days later it was still at 50%.

A few thoughts after my experience:

• I saw a poll claiming cars made after March 2024 have more issues. I'm not sure about that yet, but it's interesting.
• This feels like a software issue. If it were hardware, it would likely affect a much larger number of people. The specific things that trigger the DCM to drain the battery might not even matter, because mine drains too, but the traction battery always seems to top it up.
• Disabling the DCM is easy, but re-enabling it wipes a bunch of settings like safety preferences and efficiency data. I won't be doing that again.
• I'm curious if there is a way to track when the car "wakes up" to charge the 12v battery. Maybe a security camera that picks up sound changes if it's in a garage? In my case, the 12v always drains, but the car never lets it get too low.

I feel for anyone dealing with this. It sucks to spend this much money on a car only to have it not start because of a simple battery issue. I really hope Toyota addresses this soon. It's a great car, and these issues shouldn't be holding it back.

I’ve always rotated tires, changed oil, and done basic to moderate regular maintenance at home for my cars. The jack lifts for the BZ are kinda hidden and instead, you get this flat metal area that my transitional jack stands can probably pinch if used without an adapter.

looking for something like this pad but with a flat, round area without grooves.

After 3+ weeks of ownership, I’m settled and quite happy with the car. There is something that irritates me beyond logic. If Toyota cares, they can fix it via OTA software updates, it’s that simple.

The car should remember my last Regen setting. I like it set to 4 (highest braking) always. At least give me a toggle in settings to persist through vehicle on/off. Every single time I hop in the car and turn it on, it defaults to 2, which is too weak in city driving.

What’s the most effective method to give Toyota feedback. I can call their brand loyalty number, leave a feedback through the app, but can’t think of anything more potent. If there’s a way to sign an online petition, would Toyota listen?

TL;DR: Recall is due to battery ECU fault that can shut down the electric drive system and cause power. The issue occurs when the monitoring IC repeatedly overwrites data in shared memory addresses, especially at low battery states of charge. While power steering and braking remain functional, drivers risk losing motive power while driving, increasing crash potential. The remedy is a free battery ECU software update at dealers. Impacted cars run from June 2, 2025 – April 9, 2026.

My car was made in April 23rd, and I have no notification. It could be that ECU was already patched before delivery.

confirmed with dealership that my car does not have the recall since it was made after they patched it.

Is this battery charge a precursor to the 12v battery dying?

https://imgur.com/a/H7F7AeL

I was testing our minivan battery which retuned a 100% charge, so I thought to test the BZ too since hearing about all these dead 12v cases. We got the BZ 3 weeks ago and drive it daily, sitting at a bit over 1100 miles, and commuted with it today for an hour. The main Big battery was charged overnight yesterday, so I thought it should read a minimum of 90%, but as you can see, its far lower than normal.

If a gas car had the charge this low, the engine would certainly not start.

Over the past ~1100 miles, I’ve been enjoying super efficiency compared to a lot of folks reporting 3.x and 4.x numbers. my lifetime average is 5.2 miles/kWh. Mine is the FWD Plus with 74.7 kWh battery.

Whats your trim and efficiency number?

I’ve owned a 2016 Odyssey used at 78k miles since march 2024. The van now has 106k miles. The dealership that sold it claimed that timing belt was replaced at 75k miles as it was already 7+ years old in 2024 (7 year/105k miles per manual to replace the timing belt). I recall seeing a receipt from a mechanic they used to do the work that cost about $700 with a line item showing timing belt changed.

The dealership was not highly reputable, so am doing some due diligence to make sure they actually changed the belt instead of making the claim only to sell me the car.

Is there a quick and reliable way to guarantee the timing belt was indeed replaced, or still the original? I’m comfortable opening the top plastic cover and look for cracks or age markings, but at 2+ years old, I doubt I could tell the difference between a 2 or 10 years old belt with my untrained eyes. I have no belt tensioner noise, no water pump leaks to indicate an early warning signs of non-replaced belt. I’ve done some DiY  work since we got it (replaced all 4 corners suspension, spark plugs, VVT module that was leaking on top of the alternator, and various other small items). We are taking the van on a road trip in 10 days. I can probably spend a weekend to replace it myself or give a mechanic $1,000 to do it if needed, but I really don’t want to waste the time and money if it was already changed 2 years ago.

Any guidance is appreciated!

UPDATE: after doing some more search online on Toyota's battery design and BMS programming approach, there's certainly some solid evidence found in the older BZ4X generation from 3 years ago.

• Toyota statement (unofficial): Toyota bZ4X forum thread cites a Norwegian EV site (Elbil24) reporting that cars have a total battery capacity of 71.4 kWh gross, and that Toyota's project manager, Daisuke Ido, told Elbil24 they now state 64 kWh as the usable part of the battery capacity, using the term "usable capacity" rather than "total capacity." - https://www.bzforums.com/threads/toyota-bz4x-usable-battery-capacity.396/
• Third-party aggregator confirming the same split: EV Database states the battery of the Toyota bZ4X FWD has a total capacity of 71.4 kWh, with a usable capacity of 64 kWh. https://ev-database.org/uk/car/1564/Toyota-bZ4X-FWD EV Database
• Same site, AWD variant: EV Database states the battery of the Toyota bZ4X AWD also has a total capacity of 71.4 kWh, with a usable capacity of 64 kWh. https://ev-database.org/uk/car/1565/Toyota-bZ4X-AWD EV Database
• Independent mirror of the same number: AHG Auto Service also states the bZ4X FWD's battery has a total capacity of 71.4 kWh with a usable capacity of 64 kWh. https://www.ahgautoservice.com/what-kind-of-battery-does-toyota-bz4x-use/ AHG Auto Service

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Earlier today I responded to a comment from another thread here, and it got me thinking about the topic. I own the 26' FWD Plus, and got the 74.7 kWh battery pack. We know manufacturers and especially Toyota engineers their systems conservatively. In this case, reserving some k watts at the top and bottom of the battery charge limits. Putting this in an example, the battery pack can physically take a max amount of charge (0% - 100%), Toyota effectively reduces the charge band to (5% - 95%) - making the top and bottom inaccessible and showing the 5% as 0%, and 95% to as 100%.

This design choice is critical to reduce long term stress we put on the battery from charge/discharge, ambient heat/cold, driving style aggressiveness resulting in overly hot packs, shortcomings of battery cooling/heating systems,..etc. That said, I heard and see folks throw random numbers around about this "Effective" battery capacity, so I did a few calculations to find my pack's accessible capacity.

As mentioned, my FWD Plus has a 74.7 kWh, my available to charge 0-100% battery capacity is 65.7 kWh, leaving a 9 kWh reserve (12%), which makes perfect sense given the real life range I’m getting.

Testing:

- Drove the car 1,000 miles over the past 2 weeks. 45-50% highway, and the rest is city stop and go. I live in a crowded southeast large city with traffic almost daily. I averaged 4.9 miles/kWh.

- I used the Toyota App charging history that shows percentage charged, and kWh used to fill the car up. The corroborated that with the amount coming from the EVSE (wall charger) to match the relative numbers.

- Counting actual miles driven, and the kWh needed to replenish the battery when charged, I found the numbers to always point to resolve to 65.7 kWh as max charge.

- The lowest I went down was 30%, and max was 100%. But I also charged from 40-80%, 50-60% and various other ranges.

Toyota over-engineered BMS leaving 12% untouched of the battery. I'm not certain how much is left at the top or bottom, but knowing the NCM battery chemistry this car has, it loves to remain under 100% and above 10%. Toyota is taking that decision off our hands to reduce battery stress even when folks charge up to a 100% and deplete under 10% regularly.

Conclusion:

With my 4.9 mile/kwh average over first 1000 mile test, and total kWh used to charge up the battery, I'm seeing a max chargeable battery of size of 65.7 kWh. If the battery was indeed 74.7 accessible, you’d get a range in the 365-370 mile in real life given my driving. Curious to see if others did something similar or there's a solid piece of data pointing to this.

The other takeaway is that batteries experience the biggest sudden drop in the first year of 10,000 miles of ownership until battery chemistry stabilizes. By masking the top few percentage points, Toyota can algorithmically adjust BMS to show State of Health at 100% for a longer period, or chooses to distribute that first big drop in range over a longer period of time to psychologically help new EV buyers with range anxiety to ease up their concerns.