u/thunder9902

Hi everyone,

I’ve officially gone down the exhaust rabbit hole and think I’ve finally settled on the Solo Performance exhaust. I managed to find one for $600 shipped, which seemed too good to pass up.

I’ve heard great things about it, and every video I’ve watched sounds amazing. Right now I’m running a muffler delete. I know some of you are probably going to cringe at that, but honestly… I love it. The car came that way, and while I probably wouldn’t have chosen it myself, it still puts a smile on my face every time I drive it.

That said, I think I’m ready to graduate to something a little more refined and deeper. I recently went to a car meet and absolutely fell in love with how deep the R35 GT-R V6s sounded. That’s the kind of tone I’m chasing—not trying to copy a GT-R exactly, just that deep, bassy rumble. That’s a big reason I’m leaning toward the Solo.
Here’s where I’m stuck.

I’ve also been offered a set of ARK test pipes and Maintec equal-length long-tube headers for $350 total, which feels like an insanely good deal. My original thought was to install everything, get tuned, and pick up some power. But after talking to people on this sub, I’ve learned I'd actually lose power, so now I’m focusing more on the sound than the horsepower.

My questions are:

If you had to choose one, would you install the headers or the test pipes?

Which one contributes more to a deep rumble rather than rasp?

Which one adds the most volume while still sounding good?

I also love the pops and burbles on decel. Which setup tends to preserve or enhance those?

If I install the Solo, headers, and test pipes and then get an AlphaSpeed tune, what kind of real-world power gains should I actually expect?

I know headers are a bit controversial on these cars, but at $350 for both the headers and test pipes, it almost feels like I’d be crazy not to at least consider them.
I’d appreciate any advice from people who have actually run these combinations. Thanks!

This might be a dumb question, but I’m starting to wonder if my 2011 BK1 3.8 is already tuned.

The previous owner lived in LA basically right next to an AlphaSpeed tuner, owned the car for almost a decade, and from what I know didn’t really do much besides a muffler delete. The weird part is that it actually sounds really good for just a muffler delete (it’s still resonated), and I get a ton of pops and crackles on decel.
This is my first Genesis Coupe, so I always assumed that was just how these cars sounded. But after listening to a bunch of other stock or lightly modified 3.8s, mine sounds completely different.
For those of you running AlphaSpeed or any other tune, is there any obvious way to tell if the car is tuned? Is there some kind of key combination, hidden feature, or way to activate something like 2-step or map switching? Or is the only real way to know by logging the ECU or taking it to a tuner?
Just curious before I go pay for a tune that I might already have. 😂

I’m trying to decide what route to go for extra batteries on my Canon R8 and wanted to hear what other Canon users are actually doing.

Right now I have 2 genuine Canon LP-E17 batteries, but as most R8 owners know, battery life isn’t exactly amazing.
From what I’ve found, my options are roughly:
OEM Canon LP-E17: ~$60-70 each
Fully Decoded aftermarket batteries (Kastar, etc.): ~$60 for a 2-pack
Non-decoded aftermarket batteries: ~$20-25 for a 2-pack with charger
For those of you who have tried all three:
Is “fully decoded” actually worth paying extra for?
Do you get accurate battery percentage and battery health reporting?
Any reliability or safety concerns?
Have any of you gone back to OEM after trying aftermarket batteries?
If you already own a couple OEM batteries, would you buy more Canon batteries or just pick up aftermarket ones?
Basically, if you had to spend your own money today, would you buy:
A) Another OEM Canon LP-E17
B) Fully decoded aftermarket batteries
C) Cheap non-decoded batteries and just live with the warnings
Looking for real-world experiences, especially from R8, RP, R50, and R10 users.
Thanks!

Hey everyone,
I recently bought a Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM (non-IS) for $320, which seemed like a pretty good deal. The lens is on its way, but now I’m second-guessing myself because I’ve seen some EF 70-200mm f/4L IS copies selling in the $440–500 range.
For context, I shoot on a Canon R8 with an EF-RF adapter. Most of my photography is cars, including parked cars, car meets, rollers, and occasional general photography. I shoot almost exclusively handheld.
My current lenses are:
Sigma 50mm f/1.4 Art
Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM (non-L, non-IS)

I’ve never owned a stabilized telephoto lens before, so I’m wondering:
How much of a real-world difference does IS make on the 70-200 f/4?
Is the IS version worth an extra $120–180 over what I paid?
For those who have used both, did stabilization actually change how you shot, or was it more of a nice bonus?
Would you cancel the non-IS order and spend the extra money, or keep the $320 copy?
Looking for opinions from people who have shot both versions. Thanks!

Hey everyone, I’ve been dealing with a weird issue for a long time and I’m running out of ideas.
Specs:
CPU: Ryzen 5 3600X
GPU: RTX 3070 Ti
RAM: 32GB DDR4
PSU: Seasonic 750W modular
Dual monitor setup (both connected through separate DisplayPort cables)
Issue:
While gaming, both of my monitors suddenly go black at the exact same time and never recover. The weird part is that the PC itself DOES NOT crash.
I can still:
Hear game audio
Talk in Discord
Hear my friends
Everything in the background seems to continue running
The only thing that dies is the display output. I usually have to force restart.
Important detail: this seems to happen almost exclusively while playing one specific game that does not even seem harsh at all. Other usage seems fine.
Things I already tested:
Clean GPU driver install (DDU clean install)
Ran FurMark for ~15 minutes:

97–98% GPU load
0 artifacts
GPU around mid-70s C
VRAM around 80C
Hotspot around 104–105C
No black screen during stress test

Had some desktop wallpaper pixelation once, but changing the wallpaper fixed it completely

What confuses me:
A failing GPU doesn’t seem to fully make sense because:
Stress tests pass
No artifacts in games
Performance is normal
It runs perfectly until it suddenly goes black
Since both monitors die at the same time, I’m wondering if this is a driver/display engine issue, hardware acceleration problem, or something with the GPU itself.
Has anyone seen something like this before?

Couple questions for people running carbon hoods on their gennies:
- Any regrets?
- Hood flutter at highway speeds?
- OEM latch enough or hood pins mandatory?
- How bad is maintenance/clear coat aging long term?
- Worth it visually in person or mostly hype?
- Any fitment horror stories?

I swear I’ve been going down the rabbit hole watching clips and reading forums and everything just blends together after a while.

I’m not even hating either I love my car and the sound isn’t bad at all. It just feels like no matter if you go ISR Ark Magnaflow custom setup whatever it never really transforms the car the way exhausts do on other platforms

Maybe I’m tripping or maybe it’s just the nature of the engine platform. I feel like unless you go full custom with headers and everything it stays in the same sound “family”

Anyone else notice this or am I just overthinking it after hearing too many clips back to back

Also if you’ve actually found a setup that sounds genuinely different drop it I’m curious

Currently I'm just at an OEM muffler delete (from previous owner) and I personally love the sound and volume

I've kinda fallen in love with the solo performance but I feel if in video it all sound the same

I've been given the opportunity to purchase a magnaflow catback for 300 bucks I want to do it but not sure..

Opinions?

Hey everyone

quick update on the Genesis jackets.

There’s a slight delay with the shipment right now. It’s currently being processed through the Middle East and is held at a port(due to regional conflicts and events). I’m actively working on getting more information, and I should have a clearer update within this week or early next week.

Worst-case scenario, the shipment may need to be rerouted back to my supplier so we can switch to air freight or another faster method — but I’ll confirm that as soon as I know more.

I know delays are frustrating, and I genuinely apologize for that. Just to be clear though: all orders are completed and ready — this is strictly a shipping/logistics issue, not a production issue. Everything is just waiting to be distributed.

Also, just to reassure everyone — over 30 orders have already been successfully delivered to their rightful owners. Some of you may have already come across posts, photos, or people sharing them, so you might’ve seen them out in the wild already. I just want to make it clear that everything is moving as it should — this current situation is strictly a shipping delay.

I’ll also be sending out emails later today with this update so everyone is informed directly.

I appreciate your patience — I’ll keep you all posted as soon as I have more.