r/CarbonFiber

I need this piece but 3" longer, I can get you a scanned copy of it or a cad file. It is canards for a bmw m6, and it is a widebody bumper and the kit is only made for a stock bumper. I can also ship the ones I have so it is easier to mock mold etc.

Hello experts is this starting to yellow?? The left mirror cap looks different from the right .

Is it possible to correct it now in the early stage by sanding it with a fine grit and then 2k clear? Is the yellow from the top coat or is it the epoxy underneath?

So from my understanding the orange is tooling gelcoat whoch is tooling and fiberglass ratio. Then the white gelcoat goes on after followed by fiberglass and polyester resin and then you pop it off ? Am i miss

So I ordered a lip for a Q50 2015 sport instead I got a lip that I have no clue what car it goes to the company told me they don’t know either. I have looked online using reverse image searching, using AI and looked at the site that sent me to see if they have any other lips on there and none of it has helped so now I am uploading it here to see if anyone knows what car this goes to so I at least can make some money off of it because it doesn’t go to my car. Lip is one piece and is real carbon and is just over 75 inches long.

I recently wanted to try starting doing carbon fiber parts. After studying in uni about carbon fiber I decided to try doing parts myself.

This was my first attempt. The parts were a pair of mirror caps from a leon mk4/cupra formentor. The materials I used are from the uni-mould tooling kit from easy composites. They seem to do it pretty easy, but in my case, a lot of things didn’t go as I expected. However take this as an opportunity to learn and improve.

I want you to give me your opinion and advices for my second attempt.

Major thing that went wrong:
- The part was made in ABS and it wasn’t compatible with the kit, so I had to cover them with epoxi resin and then sand them.
- I used modeling clay for filleting the edges but didn’t work well.
- When making the flanges, I think I should have put them 90 degrees to the edge of the part.
- I think I should have done a two-part split mould instead of a one piece mould, because it was so dificult to take the mirror out and it damaged the mould. Also, when making the carbon fiber part I would have been a nightmare.

Problem solved :)

for all the smart people. Long story short I ordered a badge holder for a carbon grill I made as something this small and twisty was a bit out of my current skills (I tried it looked horrific) but the side wings on the holder don’t slide into the grill as they should as they’re too tall. Would I be okay to trim the excess with a dremel and then re seal with some extra epoxy?

Hi, I've come for some advice.
I want to glue a small length(12mm/.5inch) of woven CF tube on a pulltruded rod.
I have tried this 3 times using 2 different glues.
I used "bison fast kombi epoxy" for the first 2 tries, and the "easycomposites vuduglu VM100 Black MMA Structural Acrylic Adhesive" for the last one.
The problem is that it does not take a lot of force(sub 90 Newtons) to break this bond and to pull the "sleeve" of of the rod.

This is how I tried to do it:
pulltruded rod:

1. lightly use 80grit sandpaper on the location(with the rod in a drill, not much lenghtwise scratching).
2. wiping the area using a lint-free cloth with acetone.
3. wiping the area using a dry lint-free cloth

woven tube:

1. use a carbide drillbit to widen the original ID from 3mm to 3.2mm.
2. pull a thin slice of the lint-free cloth drenched in acetone through
3. the back part of the slice was dry, so I just continued pulling.(I only did this for the last test, before this no cleaning inside the tube took place.)(This might be partially responsible, as I saw a small amount of fibers stick out when I went to push the rod through when glueing)

glues:
following the instructions for both(mixing thoroughly, and waiting 1 hour for setting the bison epoxy and waiting 24 hours for the MMA glue)

application:

1. smearing it on with the mixing stick only on the area of the pulltruded rod.
2. pushing the sleeve over the glue
3. rotating and translating the sleeve a bit to try to get even spread(I think this might be the biggest contributor, as the MMA glue already felt a bit gummy, and the glues might not have spread properly or evenly)
4. holding it with the axis of the rod being vertical(to prevent assymetric force of gravity) while hardening/drying.
5. kept in west european weather/temperature(so around 31C or 88f).

What am I doing wrong?
I want the sheerforce to be more around 25-30kg/250N. Is this possible using the glue, or is it smarter to find a different way to get a thin ledge(I am using the face of one side of the sleeve as a ledge to hook it behind. The ledge does not have to be big, but should not fail.)
Will it be stronger if I take a 4mm pulltruded rod, and then "neck down" a small section to create the ledge? if so, how much "meat" should I leave behind the section against the sheer forces? And if it is a possible solution, what is the best way to "neck down" a pulltruded rod?

I'm making a fibreglass mould off an ABS bike tank cover (using it as the plug). From what I've read, polyester gelcoat is risky here because the styrene attacks the ABS and leaves an alligatored surface. Epoxy gelcoat is supposed to avoid that.

My question is about mixing systems: can I lay an epoxy gelcoat as the mould surface, then back it up with iso-polyester resin + fibreglass for the structural layers? Will I get proper adhesion at the epoxy-gelcoat / polyester-backing interface, or will it delaminate?

Using epoxy resin for the whole backing is too expensive, so I'm hoping to only spend on epoxy for the thin gelcoat layer. Has anyone actually run this combination? Diagram attached for clarity

I have used ai generated image for better understanding

Hello, I've never worked on a carbon frame before and was wondering if the chain and seat stays look like that because they've been dinged up or is it a sign of a real problem? Thanks

• Materials: Toray T700 carbon fiber, proprietary nano-matrix system
•Clamp pressure: 1,740PSI
•Cure temp: 500°F