I'm trying to connect to Netflix in the UK while on holiday, but it always detects the VPN. I've tried all the Windscribe servers in the UK, Wireguard and stealth, and GPS spoofing is on in the app and dev settings (Android).
Anyone have additional suggestions to get this to work?
In addition to the bodywork issue with my Polestar 4, one of my other issues right now is regarding the service timer.
My car was registered in June 2025 in the UK. At the end of May, first the Polestar app warned me that a scheduled service was approaching in June 2026, then a week later I started getting a notification on the car dashboard. This reported service date is exactly 12 months after the car was registered here in the UK.
I have now learned that the first service should be at 24 months or 18000 miles, whichever comes first (I'm currently at 7000 miles). Apparently the car and app should not be reporting a requirement for servicing at this time.
I've been told (by the local Volvo dealer) that the timer cannot be modified to get onto the correct service interval timing. They will not reset the timer now because it will reset to a 2 year interval, therefore I will not get the correct reminder in 12 months for 1st service 24 months. Instead, they believe it is better that I clear the service reminder every day between now and next June, therefore I will get reminders in June 2027 for the first service.
I am being told that the service timer is hardcoded into the car, ensuring that it is always correct and cannot be modified. I challenged this, since my timer is wrong, and they claimed the timer must have started when the car was in the factory and then the delivery team forgot to reset it. I find it hard to believe that the car was activated in the factory exactly 1 year to the day before the date the car was registered in the UK. I also find it hard to believe that Polestar can't adjust this parameter in their own software.
Has anybody else experienced this issue?
I finally got some decent weather and the opportunity to give the car a full detail a couple of months ago - it was about 7 or 8 months after the car was delivered to me. This was the first time that I realised the front bumper panel was sticking out slightly under the passenger-side headlight. I didn't want to force it back in fear of snapping a clip, so I booked it into the local Polestar service centre (Volvo dealer) to get this fixed under warranty. I feel confident this was an issue from delivery, alternatively it's the result of poor quality/workmanship in the factory resulting in it later popping, therefore warranty should cover it. I have not had any impact or incident that could have caused this.
Also, when I first got the car I noticed that the steering wheel wasn't aligned centre resulting in the 12 o-clock marker being closer to 11 o-clock. I told Polestar at the time, but the car was driving straight and the only issue was my annoyance/distraction, so I agreed it could wait until I was next in the garage because it's a long drive to the nearest service centre. Also, over this initial period of ownership we have increasingly noticed the high wind noise through the driver's door, which I asked them to investigate.
Back to the bodywork. I took the car into Volvo and they produced the attached video report. They claim the car has already undergone extensive prior bodywork involving the bonnet, front bumper, front wings and driver's door; and that the issues I've reported are all the result of that prior bodywork. Therefore, they refused to undertake any warranty work on the car. They did not contact Polestar for warranty approval or any technical input, insisting that their experience and knowledge was enough to know that Polestar would refuse warranty work.
The entire premise for their claim that the car has previously undergone extensive bodywork is that the body panels do not align perfectly. One of their points was that the gap between the driver's door and the front wing was smaller at the bottom compared to the top - that gap difference is even greater for the passenger door.
So basically, they think I've privately had all the panels and doors removed/replaced at an independent garage, potentially as the result of a significant crash, and then I've come to the main dealer to ask for a panel to be pushed in under warranty - this is insane!!!
I would like to know if the panels on everyone else's Polestar 4 are perfectly aligned, which is being implied by this dealership, or similar to mine as seen in the video.
I'm about to setup new Reolink kit at my home - I have a RLN8-410 NVR and 3x CX820 cameras. I think the best location for the NVR is in the attic room or the attic storage space because the PoE network cables will be run from the eaves down to the cameras, keeping them out of reach of people on the ground.
However, I'm not sure if I can hide the NVR away in the attic storage space and run that headless while connected to the home network or if I need a monitor regularly attached to the NVR.
I understand that the videos on the NVR can be accessed via the phone app or using software on another PC in the house, but I'm not sure how robust this is or the need to directly access the NVR on a regular basis - but I'm sure you guys can advise me on this 🤞
My GW5Pro struggles to get through a single day without needing to charge, but I easily get 2-3 days with power saving turned on. This makes me think something that is deactivated by power saving is destroying my battery life in normal mode. FYI, I am not using AOD in either mode.
Does anyone have any ideas what is causing my high battery drain in normal mode? More confusingly, the Battery Usage menu often shows an empty list (ie no apps running) when I check, but I still only get about 12 hours battery.
My Polestar 4 dashboard and the app are telling me to get the car serviced at 12 months old, but the garage is telling me that the first service should be at 2 years (or 18000 miles if that comes first).
Which is correct? What is experience of others?
Has anyone worked out if the lower plastic trim plays nicely with polish? I was detailing the car yesterday and polished/waxed the piano black trim, but I decided not to touch the matt black in case I found it had all gone white today; but I'm curious to know if anyone else has explored this?
I need some advice to improve my foam lance experience - currently my foam is thin and watery using Meg's Hyper Wash (I know it's not a specialist foam product but I have a huge bottle of it and want to use it). I feel that I should also share that I'm a novice DIY detailer, so limited knowledge and experience.
I have this brass foam lance with the default orifice, which I assume is 1.25mm. I have a relatively low powered domestic Nilfisk PW (specs in the photo) that pushes 5.2 l/min at 85 bar.
AI recommends that I change the orifice to 1.0mm - does this sound reasonable, considering the PW specs?
Second, AI insists that this orifice nozzle should have an o ring, but YT videos of gun teardowns don't appear to show an o ring and none of the replacement nozzles have o rings in the product photos. Should this have an o ring?
I need some advice to improve my foam lance experience - currently my foam is thin and watery using Meg's Hyper Wash (I know it's not a specialist foam product but I have a huge bottle of it and want to use it). I feel that I should also share that I'm a novice DIY detailer, so limited knowledge and experience.
I have this brass foam lance with the default orifice, which I assume is 1.25mm. I have a relatively low powered domestic Nilfisk PW (specs in the photo) that pushes 5.2 l/min at 85 bar.
AI recommends that I change the orifice to 1.0mm - does this sound reasonable, considering the PW specs?
Second, AI insists that this orifice nozzle should have an o ring, but YT videos of gun teardowns don't appear to show an o ring and none of the replacement nozzles have o rings in the product photos. Should this have an o ring?
I need some advice to improve my foam lance experience - currently my foam is thin and watery using Meg's Hyper Wash (I know it's not a specialist foam product but I have a huge bottle of it and want to use it). I feel that I should also share that I'm a novice DIY detailer, so limited knowledge and experience.
I have this brass foam lance with the default orifice, which I assume is 1.25mm. I have a relatively low powered domestic Nilfisk PW (specs in the photo) that pushes 5.2 l/min at 85 bar.
AI recommends that I change the orifice to 1.0mm - does this sound reasonable, considering the PW specs?
Second, AI insists that this orifice nozzle should have an o ring, but YT videos of gun teardowns don't appear to show an o ring and none of the replacement nozzles have o rings in the product photos. Should this have an o ring?
I often listen to podcasts in my P4 using Pocketcasts. Over the past week all BBC podcasts announce that I'm accessing from outside the UK and then runs an advert in Spanish.
Is anyone else experiencing this? Is the issue with the BBC, Pocketcast, Polestar or Vodafone?
I always regarded XDA as a bastion of super user knowledge, and the forums are still awesome, but I'm done with XDA "articles" in my Google feed. It's totally irrational, but it's made me so frustrated that I needed to post this.
The latest "article" titled 'I built my first home server for under $200" is actually a story about a dude that spend $200 on additional items for a full rig that he already owned. Like, WTF?!?!!?