Horrible jerking on Kobra 3
This just started a few days ago. I have no idea what could have caused this.
Originally it would start doing this at the begining of the print. It now did this about 10 hours in
This just started a few days ago. I have no idea what could have caused this.
Originally it would start doing this at the begining of the print. It now did this about 10 hours in
Yesterday evening i getting issues with filament loading. It was not able to load from ACE or manually. I opened the extruder and see the ball bearing is broken and the bearing holder/guide is totally worn out. Looks like the ball bearing was not inserted correctly. The ball on the photo was the only one which was still there. Ordered a new extruder. Hopefully the new one works longer.
Who says you need a resin printer to print minis. I think mine prints them pretty good 👍 Dog food for scale 😂
Hi everyone, I’m still pretty new to this 3d printing hobby. My first printer is this Kobra 4 and has been working great for the past 2 months. But I had my first big print fail while printing a lotad stool and the hot end scraped across the top of the print. With the very next print the nozzle is scraping the hot plate and when the metal poop bracket tries to clean the nozzle it gets jammed like this. I tried to take the hot end out and re-seat it but it seems to be perfectly flushed. Did i destroy the whole alignment? Thanks for any advice!
Hello there!
I want to create my own dices and maybe even more, if it is possible to print on these small details. A friend of me has an Anycubic Kobra X and tried to print one of my first creations. The result was kinda disappointing. The process of creating it was kinda fun and catched me a little. Iam very interested to get into 3d printing and buying a printer.
Which printer or devices would I need to print small dices which start with 20-25mm face to face and have small details like the one of the picture? I guess it has to be a resin one, right? Iam fine with having mono colored dices since I would paint them manually :)
Posted in some other similar communities but trying to get more visibility.
I’m troubleshooting repeated 11511 and 11512 errors during automatic filament changes on my Anycubic Kobra S1 Max Combo with ACE 2 Pro.
The issue appears specifically during the cut/retract portion of the filament change, rather than normal feeding.
What I’m seeing
ACE 2 Pro can feed filament all the way toward the extruder.
Filament can also retract through the PTFE path.
During an automatic filament change, the printhead moves to the front cutter position.
It appears that the filament is not being completely cut before the ACE begins retracting it.
Instead, the ACE seems to pull against filament that is still partially connected at the hotend/extruder.
This creates significantly more resistance than a normal retraction.
I’ve subsequently gotten both:
11511 — abnormal feeding
11512 — abnormal retraction
I’ve also seen the filament buckle/accordion inside the return detection/buffer area/4&8 channel port, which initially made me think the return detection module itself was the problem.
I have already:
Cleared the affected filament channels.
Inspected/straightened the PTFE routing.
Made sure the ACE 2 Pro is level and the tubing isn’t entering the system at severe angles.
Cut fresh filament tips and reloaded them.
Confirmed the ACE can physically move filament forward and backward.
Confirmed filament can reach the PTFE tubing immediately above the extruder.
This happened a few times initially but chalked it up to being a noobie and stuck to single colors for a while. But would still happen if I completed one print and then tried to do another after.
Then I really dug into it during a multicolor Gridfinity print. The first material printed normally, but when the printer attempted the planned color change, the problems started.
Also tried to do a pyramid 4 color print to check. It got through all of it but when it returned to first/initial spool I was able to reproduce the issue. Although, I’m getting tired of having to do a full disassembly every time I complete a print and mitigating by never returning to the same spool.
Current suspicion
I came across reports suggesting that on some S1/S1 Max machines the printhead may not be traveling far enough into the cutter-actuation position, resulting in only a partial cut.
That would explain my symptoms:
partial cut → ACE retracts → filament is still attached → excessive retraction force → filament buckles or fails to clear the return sensor → 11512/11511
I’m now trying to determine whether the cutter is actually receiving its full mechanical stroke when the printhead moves into the cutting position.
Questions for other S1 Max owners
Has anyone experienced this specifically on the Kobra S1 Max Combo?
If so and apologies for being a bit of a novice here but:
Did you confirm that the printhead wasn’t moving far enough to fully actuate the cutter?
What X/Y position does your machine reach during the cut?
Is there a safe way to adjust the cutter/impact position on the stock firmware?
Is the cutter position controlled by firmware, machine configuration, or Slicer Next?
Did this begin after a firmware update?
Has anyone solved it without installing custom firmware?
Is there a good test procedure for confirming a complete cut before letting the ACE retract?
I don’t want to arbitrarily increase the X position and potentially slam the carriage into its physical limit, so before changing anything or with my luck and frustration breaking anything — looking for some guidance from my fellow redditors. Again — I’m a bit of a novice but my day job is based in the sciences so with a little helpful nudge I’m hoping I can resolve this once and for all and simply enjoy printing nonsense. Lol thanks everyone!
Hello Anycubic Reddit, I don’t use Reddit very often, but I’ve come into a problem I’ve no means of solving. I was screwing in the USB connector to my printhead and after receiving a new error, I opened it up to find this piece was moving and shifting. After a light prodding it fell off and I have no idea how to reattach this piece. After turning it back on, I receive the same error code 10409. Is there any way to salvage this or replace the piece? Is there a way that I can apply a type of adhesive available? Is this printer done for? Any advice would be helpful. Pic related.
Hey all :] I’m new to 3d printing but decided to pick up the Kobra S1 and I was setting it up today. I was having trouble and kept getting this error code (Pic 1). I followed the linked troubleshooting guide all the way to opening up the back and unplugging and replugging the motor wire (photos attached here as well). Sealed the thing up and still displays the same error code after a reset. Would love some insight on what might be causing this problem! Ty :]
Edit for posterity: Two great minds worked at this puzzle for roughly 3 hours. And only after taking the whole thing apart did we find out we had just not read the manual close enough. Oops. Happens to the best of us. I’ll be back when i have a problem that actually exists.
We're hosting giveaways on the official Anycubic Discord server, with several Kobra X printers up for grabs!
A new giveaway unlocks at every milestone:
(currently at 11,436)
And that’s not all! You can also earn points through our daily check-ins, Help&Win, Invite&Win, Hot-topic events, and more. These points can be redeemed for discount vouchers on the Anycubic store !
Beyond the giveaways, we're a tight-knit (and slightly crazy) community always up for a good chat. Troubleshooting videos, a support ticket service, 3D modeling channels, and a place to report issues with Anycubic Slicer Next...If you run into any issues, don't hesitate to reach out, we're here to help. ( FDM & SLA)
We also have a dedicated channel to showcase your 3D projects, promote yourself, whether you're a hobbyist or a professional.
Come join us on Discord and check it out for yourself. Jump into the conversation, we don't bite, promise! And if it's not your vibe, you can always leave.
Not interested ? No worries, just scroll past !
I have a bit of filament stuck in the PTFE tube going from the back of the printer to the printhead itself, and I'm out of ideas on how to dislodge it.
Somehow I can't remove the ptfe tube going into the bit at the end (which then connects to the ACE) -- not sure if that is because the filament is in there or because of some other reason.
I also can't put it through with another bit of filament (I'm assuming that the distributor piece has some kind of lock in it)
Any ideas?
I pre order the p1 max on August 4th. It was supposed to be here by August 20th it hasn't even shipped yet.... What is going on? Two weeks and hasn't even shipped.
First, Try to clear the clog using traditional methods like the needle and a no-clogger. Sometimes you get lucky if you heat the nozzle, remove it and then lower the no-clogger into all 4 filament channels.
If the filament is stuck inside the printhead, try to press in the cutter arm to release it.
Remove the print head from the machine and power down.
Remove the power cable from the back of the print head.
Remove the 4 port hub from the top of the machine. If you still have filament stuck, go ahead and cut it so you can work.
Remove both cover plates from the front of the print head along with the bottom part cooling fan.
Flex the housing outward at the cutter arm so that the cutter arm can pop to inside of the housing and remove the housing.
Remove the 6 screws on the main body of the extruder cover and lift off the number display, gear detection sensor (see video) and extruder cover.
Clear any jam in the extruder. If jam is below the extruder (but not in the nozzle, continue on).
Remove the hot end screws on either side of the hot end and twist the hot end so the 4 port connection is visible.
Remove the 4 port connection by loosening the tiny tension thread and inspect the 4 holes for filament.
look down inside the heatsync to see if there is any additional filament trapped. you should be able to see the cutter blade when the cutter arm is depressed.
Great Design by Darren 3d Print from Cults3d
I had to make a gridfinity adapter plate from my custom 1u nozzle bins
u/crealityfilament
Ciao a tutti, questa è la mia prima stampante, stanotte mentre stampava ha rilevato spaghetti, ma dormivo e non ho visto la notifica, la stampa è continuata e quando ha "finito" ho trovato questo. Quanto sono rovinato? È da cambiare tutto il blocco o si può sistemare?
So this one feels like a first.
Trying to print some TPU again on my S1. Disconnect ACE and break sensor, loaded TPU into print head manually, hit "extract" on the filament screen and verified filament is flowing properly, select my file to be printed, BANG immediate 10107 Code.
I have tried every configuration I feel like i can use. I've tried power cycles, ive tried plugging break sensor back in and inserting a dummy strand of filament. Im now to the point where ive take then print head apart to verify no broken pieces inside there and everything seems fine. Filament goes through print head just fine.
Anyone run into this scenario before? Is there something im missing?
Weird thing is ive printed with TPU before already and didnt have an issue.
Thanks
I bought a Photon Mono 2 2nd hand off of face book and noticed that the touch screen wouldn't respond to my touch. after further inspection of the screen it looks like resin has gotten underneath the screen between the plastic layers. the screen still lights up and some time accepts inputs but is extremely inaccurate and inconsistent with what it will accept.
Any tips/links to either replacement parts in stock for the usa or on a fix for the screen.
Any help is appreciated.
I noticed a couple of days ago that my camera is no longer working. Everytime I will check my printer when I am away, the screen display on my phone was black. I double checked my laptop and its the same thing.. I tried restarting my Kobra s1 Max...the result is the same.. camera not working..
I was looking for ways to optimize multiprinting, and I noticed a very weird multiprint calculation in the slicer. The one single thing I changed is that I removed the multiprint tower. HOW ON EARTH are the flush volumes near non-existent? 65g of flush vs 4g? It still needs to clean the full nozzle, and the print is very small and thin ( almost no flushed infill or supports); nothing should change in terms of flush volumes. This can't be correct, right?
The flushing time is nearly the same, and the tower itself only uses 11g of filament, so I can't fathom how it would only flush this little filament? YES I KNOW It's a small and tall print with nearly all layers in 2 colors, so it's a bad candidate for multicolor unless I wanna copy it all over the PEI.
I really need help. I recently got this Kobra Neo off Facebook marketplace and I can’t seem to get it to work. First off, the auto levelling doesn’t work. It fails at the second time down as the printer head just keeps going down till it hits the bed and the display just says auto level failed. I have tried lowering and raising the sensor and can confirm the sensor works as the red light comes on. Also, it might be a me issue but I can’t seem to get the z offset to work. The nozzle always seems very far from the printer bed. I have turned it down to almost -5mm and still the nozzle isn’t close to the printer head. Any info to fixing any of this is much appreciated. Thanks