r/Cordwaining

I’ve been making tutorial videos documenting handwelted shoemaking

I’ve been making tutorial videos documenting handwelted shoemaking

Over the last few years I’ve been documenting a lot of my shoemaking process on Youtube, focused on traditional handwelted construction and techniques that may be useful for anyone learning cordwaining.

I'm posting the tutorial playlist here in case they’re useful to anyone:

Tutorials: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLhiOASE6nQBrRkWaO8n0EzR85R0eznCLt

The links to individual videos:

Beginners Guide to Shoe Lasts https://youtu.be/ZaoxgrczugI

The only tools you need to start making shoes https://youtu.be/0g4f-fRdw-4

Full build with commentary https://youtu.be/W1VKjzRdq98

Pattern Making

Pattern Making - Oxford Shoes https://youtu.be/-Z6ripjRpsA

Pattern Making - Derby Boots & Shoes https://youtu.be/15mGQtl-bN0

Pattern Making - Single Piece Heel https://youtu.be/9Mgjm7pP44w

Upper Assembly

Guide to Assembling Uppers https://youtu.be/EgWn9QLJ0-Y

10 Tips for using the £100 Chinese leather patcher https://youtu.be/sMqDXplWCsM

Midsole & Stiffeners

Hand-making a Midsole out of Sole Leather https://youtu.be/VRWx1bm20vo

Making Shoe Stiffeners https://youtu.be/kiKz3zU6W6g

Lasting

Beginners Guide to Lasting https://youtu.be/4AtRJXPnQic

Homemade Lasting Stand https://youtu.be/fki7U86FHfE

Should you wet the leather before Lasting? https://youtu.be/Vb9BYimgn8Q

Handwelting

Tutorial for Hand-Welting https://youtu.be/RY2_NRjzksA

How to make Steel Bristles for Sewing Leather https://youtu.be/AKcugJ23Ohg

I will continue to make more tutorial videos. If there is anything you want please let me know.

Hope someone finds this useful!

u/handweltedshoesuk — 18 hours ago

Horse butt leather

So I have just finished lasting one shoe made of 2.5mm horse butt and well anyone who does this often must have some serious patients. This took me three hours to last, I'm very happy with the outcome.

Recently Finished these. Would love to hear your thoughts.

  1. Wrapped Spiral Zip. Textured Shell HorseRump. Hand Dyed with Red and Oxblood. Hand Welted Construction. Distressed Metal Toe. Cowboy Heel. Exposed Spiral Shank. TB Sole Detailing. YKK Excella Zip.
u/ThomasBenjamin_US — 3 days ago

What details make a leather product feel genuinely well-made instead of just “premium-looking”?

I’m researching how people who actually understand leather and construction judge whether a product is worth a higher price.
I’m not naming the product because I don’t want to promote anything or bias the answers. I’m more interested in the principles: what makes you trust an object when you handle it?
When you see or touch a leather product, what details tell you it is genuinely high quality? Stitching consistency, leather type, grain, finish, edge work, lining, hardware, structure, smell, thickness, weight, creasing, patina, repairability, or something else?
I’m also curious about the red flags. What makes you immediately think “this is fake-premium” or “this is relying on marketing more than construction”?
For example, are there certain finishes, textures, stitching choices, logos, hardware choices, or design decisions that make a product look cheaper even if the material itself is decent?
I’d really appreciate specific observations from products you’ve owned, made, repaired, inspected, or handled in person. The tiny details are exactly what I’m trying to understand.

reddit.com
u/simple5entrepreneur — 3 days ago

Found these antique lasts/stretchers, would love any more info

I found these antique boots, stretchers or lasts at a local Goodwill, and I couldn’t believe my eyes. I snatched them up and would love to know any more info – they have a name on them, ‘Teitzel’, which, from what I can tell was the precursor to Dehner boots- Teitzel being the name of the cobbler who actually made the boots. I’d love to know from approximately what year they might be from, what type of boot, and how to best measure them so I know what size they are. So stoked that it’s a matching right and left side as well. There are also brass rings in the top, what were these for?

u/satiredun — 8 days ago

Overlapping Back Seam?

Put these together as a kind of experiment to see if simply overlapping and stitching the backseam is a viable method of joining quarters, especially since I don’t have a zigzag stitcher. I don’t really see this build that often and I’m wondering if there’s a reason for that, any advice appreciated.

u/bwizemann — 8 days ago

Cutting boot pattern from Horse hide strips?

Hey guys!! I need some help. I’m trying to figure out which direction to cut my vamps out of these strips. Does anyone know? I’d appreciate the help thanks. Attached is a random photo of a strip for reference.

u/bairminimum — 10 days ago

Women’s Boots

Made my wife some boots for Mother’s Day. Last one using the Singer patcher. Still trying to get the folded in dress-style backseam right, new ones add a dog tail at the top. Java waxed flesh from Horween with green split Dr Sole cork soles.

u/bwizemann — 11 days ago

First pair ever

JOOTEY T1V1

- cowhide upper
- ⁠nappa lining
- ⁠steel shank between sole and upper
- ⁠layered sole with leather and rubber
- asymmetrical topline
- ⁠gusseted tongue
- exaggerated tongue
- ⁠exaggerated sole (might help run faster)

DM for enquiries

u/bhavyapareek_ — 14 days ago

Want some lasts??!

Yellow left are 40, 10, 11-13ish, wood top are mens size 9, then ladies 10.

Bottom left is womens 5, kids are gone. White is 6 and green is 37

I also have an anvil, toe puff, counter stiffener, and random tools

u/mama-bearrrr — 12 days ago
▲ 10 r/Cordwaining+1 crossposts

Help Identify please!

HI! I`ve had these boots passed down to me 10 years ago by a good friend whos been around the US in the mid to late 80s and purchased these there, did not mention the state, but it was somewhere near or wherever Peppy San Badger was breeding at the time as he also purchased one of Peppy San Badger offsprings and transported him back to the UK.
Is there any way to help me identify these please?
There are no markings apart from ''Neolite'' on the heel.
I`ve had to, unfortunatley, get new pull tabs attached(which aren`t great) a few years ago.

u/Disastrous-Twist7934 — 13 days ago

Trying to make a natural material running shoe

So I have a specific problem. I have a leg length discrepency of 1 inch, meaning the bone in my left leg are 1 inch total shorter than my right leg.

Usually I just use eva as the midsole for my running shoes but I was wondering if there were any natural alternatives so I do not have to rely on plastics for my foot wear?

I would just like to become more environmentally friendly and start to make my own shoes.

This would be for running shoes so the cushioning would definitely be needed.

reddit.com
u/AlphoBuddha — 11 days ago

Question!

I’m hand making a pair of wooden clogs, but seem to have a really hard time finding soling sheets! either they are very expensive, not based in Canada/B.C or they are on Etsy which I can’t get. if anyone knows where to find brown/clear ish sheets much be appreciated!

reddit.com
u/TheMiniaturist777 — 12 days ago
▲ 7 r/Cordwaining+2 crossposts

Redwing 899 Tongue Failure

Any suggestions on fixing the tongue on my Redwing 899’s? Seems they may have been over conditioned. I’ve sewn the tear twice and the leather has failed both times.

Contemplating attempting a total tongue replacement

u/Elandt225 — 12 days ago

Found what appears to be a last in a dumpster. What kind of shoe is it intended for?

Split down the middle suggests a sandal with something between the toes, but the symmetry makes me doubt that.

Also unsure how to remove it from the shoe as there's no hinge. Maybe the heel is short enough that it can slide out whole with enough force.

No text on it other than the "6".

u/sawakisnt — 13 days ago