



Temporary bypassed my ac compressor by putting a dummy pulley. My question is should I keep or remove the idle pulley? Many say to remove while others say not too since the dummy pulley acts like the compressor or in other words provides the right tension. Just wondering what you guys think about this?? Also this is a tbi 5.7 just in case that matters at all.
I have a 93 K1500 350/5.7
Runs like a champ, except after it gets to temp (~160 engine ~180 Transmission) it runs low RPM on idle in Drive (100-300) and Tac bounces (will idle in park fine Tac around 500 RPM). Once warmed up it will sometimes die if at a light for too long. No problem doing 4 hours straight driving, doesn't overheat. After it stalls out, then the next 5-10 min of driving it doesn't want to accelerate well, putters.
I've been down the diagnostics rabbit hole, Fuel pump is new, plugs and wires are new, hoses are new. IAC is new. Engine is dirty/greasy AF so not been able to visually confirm head/intake gasket leaking. I do not have oil in coolant or coolant in oil. Radiator doesn't bubble. Went through a whole can of started fluid to find vacuum leaks around gaskets, but nothing. IAC valve seems to be next in line of suspension, but it's a new IAC.
At this junction, I wonder if all the o-rings and smaller gaskets in the TBI may be at fault, or if I need to consign myself to replacing the intake/head gasket. I hate to make more work for myself, but if I go the route of doing those gaskets, do I just need to plan on doing both and adjusting my valves etc as I'm already down in those guts, kinda like replacing a water pump whe you have to do the belt?
Looking for suggestions as I hate to just tear it down and throw parts at a problem I don't understand.
Hey guys!
I'm picking up a 1976 C20 this week and plan to make it my winter build, starting after Dinos Git Down in November. The goal is to put the C20 body on my 2000 Chevy Tahoe Z71 4x4 (4" lift, 350, auto). I want a 4x4 big brother to the orange and white '73 2WD long bed I already have.
I've seen a few YouTube builds that put a C10 on a 2003+ Tahoe for the LS and modern features. I get the appeal, but I already own the 2000 and want to use it.
Questions:
Firewall vs. bare frame: Should I cut everything off the Tahoe but keep its firewall, then cut the firewall out of the C20 and graft the cab to it? Or strip the Tahoe to the bare frame and build up from there?
4x4 shifter: The Tahoe's 4x4 is a push-button switch on the dash. I have a 1992 with a floor-shift transfer case. Is it worth swapping to the floor shifter for a cleaner square body interior, or should I keep the electronic setup?
Bed: The C20 is a long bed. I'm planning to skip the stock bed, and I'm weighing three options: shorten the long bed, buy a short bed, or build a flatbed. Which way would you go?
Other details:
The engine and transmission are healthy, so I'm keeping them stock for now.
I have three OBS Chevys, so I have plenty of parts. A lot of the Tahoe's parts will go into Big Red, my '98 C3500 crew cab.
I buy and sell OBS trucks all the time, but this one is going to be my main squeeze.
Any advice from people who've done a square body on a GMT400 chassis is appreciated. Pics are of my tahoe donor the c20 and the third one is just a ai rendition.
Any thoughts or comments, please let me know what you think.
I got this 99 Tahoe from my grandpa a little while ago and I just got it back on the road. Can anyone tell me why the rear windows only go down a quarter of the way ? Like what could be the issue.
Wanting to do a quad light conversion on my 91 model. All I need is these brackets and the custom quad lights themselves from LMC right?
Yes I already have pigtails and wiring harness in the cart.
I replaced the severely slipping 4l60e with a 700r4 but after driving it on the beach it started slipping as well. So any recommendations on a stronger transmission? It’s a 1994 k1500