r/Honda

Unfortunately my 2018 RAV4 was totaled on Sunday in a flash flood. A new car was not on my radar and now am overwhelmed with making a decision. I have narrowed the choices down to the 2026 Subaru Outback, Honda CRV Hybrid and Honda Passport.

• The 2026 Outback drove great and they are offering some screaming deals on the cars right now. 1.9% financing and I am sure I could get a few thousand off the MSRP of $34,995. I liked the new center console and the safety features. I have never owned a Subaru but I am opening to trying it out.
• The Honda CRV Hybrid would offer great gas mileage but my local Honda mechanic said any issues I would have to go the dealer. He is not equipped to repair hybrids. Any savings on gas could be eaten up by the extra cost to repair a hybrid. The Costco pricing is $37,463 after a few dealer add-ons. Financing terms are not as attractive as Subaru. Probably around 5%.
• The Honda Passport just looks good but I am sure will last me twenty years. I plan to test drive tonight but it is by far the most expensive (still waiting on Costco pricing) and gets the worst gas mileage.

I will be driving the vehicle daily around 37 miles round trip in bumper to bumper highway traffic. Three young kids and two dogs. I like to paddle board and my husband bikes a lot.

What car should I buy?

Hey guys, looking for some insight on this rattle on my 2006 Honda Rebel 250.

Context on how this started: The bike was heavily overfilled on oil by accident and got really hot, which built up crazy pressure and violently blew the crankshaft snout oil seal completely out of its seat. I took everything apart to fix the leak, but ever since reassembling, I’ve had this persistent mechanical rattle.

I’ve had the flywheel off 4 times now trying to get this right. Here is exactly how it's currently put together:

>The starter sprocket and flywheel were bench-assembled (twisting past the rollers) so everything clicked in right.

>The whole assembly was slid onto the crankshaft snout together on a good woodruff key.

>The main flywheel bolt is fully torqued to spec at 33 lb·ft using a chain strap wrench to hold it.

The engine idles completely smooth and steady with the choke off, but the rattle is super clear at low idle. When I give it gas or pull the choke to speed it up, the noise seems to go away or get masked. Also worth noting: when I pulled the flywheel off one of the times, one of the starter clutch rollers completely fell out like it was loose.

Airbox is bone dry, and the oil didn't look foamy when it originally leaked out. What am I missing here? Did the extreme heat/pressure warp my starter clutch housing, drop an idler gear bushing, or is it something else entirely?

Any help is appreciated!

https://reddit.com/link/1vszmc6/video/604bp11xfekh1/player

In a little dilemma and figured this would be the place to get good feedback

I come from a long line of Honda owners, my first Honda was a 2013 Civic, and my 2nd was a 2019 Civic Ex Hatchback.

I'm looking for my "forever car" that will be my daily but also used for fun mountain cruising in Colorado.

I'm looking at:

Civic Hatch Sport Touring Hybrid (because a bit zippy on a platform I'm familiar with and great gas mileage)

Acura Integra A-spec Tech manual

Acura Integra Type S

I haven't had a manual in over 10 years, have not sat behind the wheel of any of these yet, and know that the A-spec cvt is basically not worth the added price over the Civic Hybrid.

If any of you have opinions on these 3 cars, especially how they do on curvy canyon roads, let me know what you think! Obviously I know the type s is going to be more "fun", but is is $20k more fun in your opinion?

Hey Edmonton, I want to give a massive warning to anyone considering taking their vehicle to Wheaton Honda for service.

My 2015 Honda CR-V (had is since new, regular maintenance, now at 161K) recently developed a rattle on cold starts. I took it to Wheaton Honda. They quoted me $230+ for a diagnostic. The service advisor, Aman, delayed the service by a day, and when he finally called, he told me the dipstick was dry and that the car had catastrophic internal engine damage. His solution? A used engine installation for $12,145.

A family member with automotive knowledge stepped in and asked Aman for the proof. Did they drop the oil pan? Cut the oil filter? Were there metal shavings? Aman scoffed at us, sent a picture of a dry dipstick, and then ghosted our follow-up texts asking for actual diagnostic details. He topped up the oil and told us the car was "drivable" but to keep an eye on the oil. (If the engine is destroyed, why let me drive away?)

We picked up the car, paid the nearly $300 diagnostic/shop fee, and took it home. We drained the oil and cut the filter, even used a magnetic tool to search for metal. Absolutely ZERO metal shavings.

When I called for clarification and a refund for the diagnostic they clearly didn't perform, Aman dumped me onto the manager, Mark Tucker. Mark was the epitome of the arrogant dealership stereotype. He was snarky, condescending, constantly interrupted me, and refused to refund the fee, claiming they are "certified Honda experts" and just know the engine is done.

I ended up taking my vehicle to an independent mechanic who has been in business for 40 years. They looked at it and recognized a known Honda Service Bulletin. The problem? A faulty cam chain tensioner causing timing chain slap. They replaced the tensioner, the rattle is gone, and the engine is perfectly fine.

Wheaton Honda either has profoundly incompetent "experts" who don't read their own service bulletins, or they actively try to scam people out of five figures. If you have to deal with Aman or Mark Tucker, turn around and drive away. Support our local, honest, independent mechanics instead!

Sup people! I think I have a 3rd gen fit lol it’s a 2016 Honda Fit LX! I love the car, and have the only owner. It’s got about 80,000 miles on it! I’m here because although I love the car the suspension sucks! It feels completely blown, and I feel everything on the road. I move in LA I pray I don’t go over any pot holes, and bumps. Any of you guys experience the same issue with yours? If so, what suspension did you guys use to get it resolved? Is it fairly easy to replace? Any suggestions open! I’d love to replace the stock suspension soon. Thanks in advance!

Just had our Odyssey in for some recall work. We have 100,600 miles on it. Dealer came back with over $4,000 worth of recommended services.

$1,700 for timing belt
$725 for “valve adjustment”
$514 for spark plug replacement
Fuel injection service
Transmission drain and fill
Brake fluid service

I’m a little in freak out mode right now. I knew the timing belt was coming up and it wouldn’t be cheap. But I wasn’t expecting that much and in conjunction with so many other expensive services.

Hi everyone,

I'm completely stuck and could use some help. I replaced the cabin blower motor on my 2008 Honda Civic FK3 2.2 i-CTDi and had to unplug the accelerator pedal to do it. I forgot to plug it back in before reconnecting the battery and switching the ignition on. I realized afterward, reconnected the pedal, but now the car is acting up. I can communicate with my scan tool now, but I'm getting DTC B1168, Gauge Control Module Lost Communication with ECM/PCM Engine Messages, and I can't clear it. It comes back immediately. The engine currently won't start, the MIL comes on with ignition, and the fuses I've checked seem fine. I'm planning to check ECM power, grounds, and CAN wiring next, but could powering the car up with the accelerator pedal unplugged have caused this? Has anyone seen B1168 happen from something other than a real ECM comms or power issue? Any advice or common failure points would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.