




Clear flux over textured autumn
Porcelain clay body with Umbria slip trailing. I did three layers of spectrum textured autumn and then two layers of clear flux on the top forth. I’m so in love.





Porcelain clay body with Umbria slip trailing. I did three layers of spectrum textured autumn and then two layers of clear flux on the top forth. I’m so in love.
Start to finish all that goes into making these! Lots of work into each can
For the body I use a b-mix w/ grog and buff mix, it’s about a 9:1 I find this helps TREMENDOUSLY with warping, sculpting, and final work. I’m a fan of burnishing and it’s 50/50 with this you have to fill in voids but if caught perfect you can get some nice “low-poly” patterns which influence how the glaze moves but keeps some nice lines.
This glaze is as much about the form as it is the chemicals. On some pieces it looks very different. I ensured when sculpting that the cheeks would not push the glaze straight into the eyes when fired flat. In trimming I also put the smallest of edges on the rim to make a dam.
I used Amacos obsidian for the eyes which did exactly what I was hoping - STAY STILL but if any runs happened I knew it would react stunningly.
I used 2 different in house glazes that don’t work too well on my function pieces because of fit but look amazing. The left half I call Sapphire Slate and the right half I call Aether.
For the back I used Maycos Matte Engobe and fired on an old kiln stilt. There is a small drip which you can see on the right but this gave me a full frontal glaze… no pun intended.
The display stand is a forged plate and arm that took me about 4 hours to get right…. The plate is glued inside the mask with a welded bolt on it and put onto some welded hardware on the arm. This then bolts into a block I designed and CNC cut out of cherry to hopefully match the theme. The reason for the complexity is modularity. If any piece is broken or damaged it can be replaced or refinished in parts instead of the whole piece (also for shipping).
My 3 year old is very very into drawing and I’ve been giving her bisque pieces and a pencil and then I carefully go over her pencil lines with a fine brush and under glaze. Creates some hilarious and amazing projects!
Hello Potters! There's this ceramic artist (@dontyuckmyyum.studio) who's glaze work I adore. They have a glazing workshop but it's sold out!
Any ideas how to make designs like this where there's still the shape of the image but it's also faded/the glaze moves a bit. I'm wondering if it's just a matter of using a stencil/wax resist and pairing it w/ glazes that run a bit. Any suggestions welcomed (including similar glazes you think will work well for this idea)!
I’ve seen some really cool glaze applications that look quite thick (and like they would run down the piece) but end in a stark line. Is this just conscientious glaze combinations (using specific combos that won’t run) or is wax resist used? I’m still trying to understand what has the risk of running off and if I need to do anything special to get that line! I’ve attached pictures as reference.*
Thank you!
*these are not my photos or pieces! Just an admirer :)
I’m a beginner but really wanted a bat system.
But the studio I’m in uses wheels without pins, and the Hartley and Noble is expensive. So i created my own 3D printed version. Can be printed on home printers because the frame breaks down into 4 parts. Bats are smooth and clay attaches well to them. Can’t warp like MDF, and the totalt cost to print with a local dude cost me like 35USD total, including 5 bats in 20x20cm. What’s not to love?
I'm really pleased with how these came out! A few things to tweak, but pretty close to how I pictured them.
Cone 6 firing
The mini paintings and tree branches are Amaco Velvet underglaze with 2 coats of clear
Purple mug is 3x Lavender Mist, 2x Arctic Blue on top half
Green mug is 3x Green Tea with 2x Textured Turquoise on the top half
I definitely needed some kind of flux to encourage more mixing on the purple mug, and the Green Tea on the green mug really needed another coat. But overall they're what I wanted.
Hey team
Looking for recommendations for scaling up glaze recipes. What process or tools work best for you all?
TIA
Hello beautiful people.
I just finished glazing and firing my yarn bowl and opened the kiln today to find it has a huge crack in it. It is still structurally sound and strong. I'm just wondering how do I fill in the space to be able to still use it as intended?
Thanks, any advice is appreciated
I really want to get into wheel throwing but the class I'm in right now seems focused on hand building techniques TIA
I can’t remember which app I saw it on, but to the person who said to use a simple eraser to remove underglaze, I hope on your next commute you hit all the lights green!
what happened here? i have a white angel clay body. the bottom cup was mayco lavender mist x3 and top cup is micro pearl x3
this was fired at cone 6
the micro pearl also very matte feeling. im so upset
I have a full studio. And due to life complications it has remained dormant. Now at 60 I'm starting again. I think this may be my swan song and I'm gonna sell all the equipment after this run. So, I'm firing a cone six, I have a 24 ft.³ Bailey gas Kiln, I haven't tested glaze in years. I need a glaze recommendation for a light bodied Clay and a brown Clay. This may be a tall order, but I can't have a failure.
I would appreciate your input. Thanks ahead of time.
I am 65 and I never touched clay until 3 weeks ago.. I’m currently in an over 55 seven week course and have signed up for another session. I’m not artistic at all but I made these two pieces.. they are lopsided and show tons of marks but I’m thinking that’s what I’m just gonna go with.. the “rustic I meant for it to be that way” look.. can I learn this at 65 to be decent?