r/fordtransit

Hi, Hoping for some help from you all, thanks in advance.

I’m a plumber in Massachusetts, looking to pick up another van. I typically buy previous year leftovers around this time of year. Lately, I’ve been noticing a lot of of the U-Haul Fleet vans offered up for sale with very low mileage. Typically a good $8000 less than the leftover new vans.

I’ve called three or four dealerships that have these vans listed. Every dealership has told me that the van they have listed has sold, but they can go and get me one at auction. Seems like some sort of marketing trap to me…..

I ended up reaching out to U-Haul truck sales and they offered to sell one direct to me. The dealerships are looking for about $34,500 for a 2025 Ford Transit 250 with 10-15k miles. U-Haul will sell the same van for $33,250.00 direct to me.

Other than supporting the local business, is there any other perk to me buying it through the dealership that’s worth $1200? What are these being sold for at wholesale? How much wiggle room do I have? I suspect think I may have negotiating room in the U-Haul direct price as well.

Any insight would be very much appreciated! Thanks again!

2016 Transit 350 gas turbo with 128K. When releasing the throttle pedal after accelerating, the brake pedal applies itself firmly; cannot hold it back with the top of my foot. If you immediately accelerate, it releases itself. “Service Brake Booster” comes on the screen. Replaced angled vacuum connector with new check valve; no change. Booster? Booster vacuum sensor switch? ABS? Thanks.

Husband and I have been weighing the pros and cos of the transit van, we have a Honda Odyssey currently and we’ll be a family of six here soon. While fitting a car seat in the odyssey isn’t the issue, it’s the amount of space we no longer have for road trips. We’re looking at a 15 seater and just taking out two rows in the back for storage and extra space.

How’s city driving in these things? Med roof or low roof? I’d like the extra head room but no drive throughs, drive in car washes and parking garages. The parking garage issue is the biggest thing for me although not a deal breaker. I’ll miss the Honda for the movie player up top, and that’s why I’d prefer to get the med roof so we’re able to mod the inside a little more like put a little tv in there.

Our budget is $60,000, we’re down to modding a few things later but right off the bat we don’t want to go to high. What things have you put in yours to make it more comfortable for your family?

Those that use their Transits as their daily, can you give me some pros and cons or just your daily experiences with driving the transit? :)

Thank you!

At my company we just recieved our brand new Transit AWD with 20 miles on it. I just went over 300 miles and while in bumper to bumper traffic I lost power when I hit the gas pedal and I had engine vibrations. Soon after the check engine light came on. I was able to find a good spot to pull off the freeway. While I still had it on, the check engine light would come one for a bit then turn off, and same with the vibration from the engine. While driving, I did have it in Eco mode, so maybe that had something to do with the issue.

I left it off for a while and after I turned it back on it seemed OK, no issues. Also it never overheated or any other issues.

Now, im sitting at a Ford Dealership wondering what I need to do as Ford wont give out loaners to Company vehicles, lol.

I test drove a mid-roof Transit 150 today for about 20 minutes. It was amazing, I almost want one as a daily driver! Anyway I have left formal cutaneous radiculopathy. Basically the nerve in my left leg is bad. I can't put my leg *on* the dead pedal wedge because it lifts that leg and compresses the nerve. But I would love to be able to make the van work for me. I tried putting my foot to the inside of the wedge, but twisting my ankle like that caused ankle pain.

What if I add height to the seat to compensate for the lifted leg, and add a riser under the right foot too so they're at equal levels. Should that work?

And are there other solutions?

Hello i drive a Ford Transit 2004 and my Clutch Master Cylinder broke.

I replaced it, bled it and checked the fluid level, but i still cant shift gears.

Any advice?

What does everyone think of these? I've heard there are improvements made from the 2016-18, community for DIY repairs, availability of parts, and fewer mechanical gremlins than the newer stuff. Is this people's experience?

Is anybody else missing the ecoboost emblem on their 2026? Mine came without one and I’m wondering if I should ask for one.

Tried to drive it this morning and the van won't start. All lights/radio turn on as normal but the dash doesn't turn on with the key.

Tried to jump start even though batteries are at 12.7 volts. Also tested batteries at advanced auto parts and their tester said good

I tried to use an obd2 tester on it also and the tester won't work because it seems even when they key is turned to on or acc. nothing seems to power on.

2024 ford transit 350.

I have a 2003 Ford E-150 Conversion van high top (done by Eclipse Conversions). It's in great shape and still road tripping.

It is due for strut replacement ahead of our planned trip to Alaska next year. I'm looking for recommendations on struts that will help reduce the bounce of the back end while also hopefully not giving up stability. It has a higher center of gravity so I was looking at the KYB Gas-A-Just vs the KYB Monomax or something similar. Just worried that these may end up being intended for a cargo/utility van and be too stiff for a passenger van.

I don't intend to do much towing with the van.

Any recommendations for decent struts for this application?

I had a full brake job done on my 2019 transit 45 days ago. 110k miles. Rotors, pads, bearings, the whole shebang. Now suddenly 45 days later the abs warning light comes on. Code appears to be 36&37. Turns out to be the left rear tone ring is cracked. They replace it, along with a new battery (was at 40%). Warning light is gone. Drive twice, 15 miles total, and abs light is back on. Now they are saying it is codes for the other side and it is the right rear tone ring that’s cracked. I questioned them at the beginning of the first tone ring replacement if the others were in bad shape. Was told they are either 100% good or 100% bad and wouldn’t know until another broke. My question is, is there something they could have done incorrectly during the original brake job to cause both rear tone rings to crack 45 days later? And how does each tone ring break one day apart? During the original brake job isn’t wear and tear or rust something they should have spotted on the hubs/ring? I’m just trying to figure out if this is something I should look further in to, or it’s just par for the course of transits and just coincidental how things are breaking and nothing more. Thanks.