u/--paQman--

Update: the shop called back and said they did not find any sign of shavings or contaminants in the oil pan. So I think I probably should have them replace the gallery gaskets. But man I still feel like after doing that, the code will come back because the vvt solenoids will be dirty, and it's probably another grand to replace one of those lol.

Edit: they did check the vvt solenoids, said they look fine.

So I've had this 2010 Maxima Since 2018, bought it with 60k miles, and have loved it. Fully loaded with everything, And the mechanic I took it to said it was one of the cleanest cars he'd ever seen. I didn't know about the CVT issues at the time, but learned shortly after. So I replaced the transmission fluid around 65k, and was planning on doing it shortly here soon again, it's got about 89k on the clock now. No slipping, transmission shows no signs of slowing down at all. So it's been taken care of and treated me great. I've done the oil changes myself on it, and done them pretty much on time all the time, and kept up on most of the other maintenance.

However recently I got a P0011 on it. I had this before a few years ago, and Nissan replaced one of the VVT solenoids. But it's popped up again, and now they are saying they suspect the timing cover gaskets may be worn, because the oil pressure is a bit low, and they see what they think are very small metal shavings in the oil, around the oil filler cap. They are going to drop the oil pan tomorrow morning to verify if they see them down there. There have been no other symptoms besides the code. Gas mileage has been fine, no noises, sputtering, anything else.

My question is, if they do find oil shavings down there, what are my options? They want $2k just to replace the gaskets on the timing cover. (can't remember the actual name for it). But they said at that stage, they would get me a quote for a new engine. I don't plan on forking out for a new engine. I always assumed the CVT would go out eventually, so I would drive it till then. But $2k only fixes the oil pressure issue, but doesn't fix the damage already done.

What is the state of an engine with fine metal shavings in it like this, and how much life could it possibly still have in it? Could I drive it for another 10-20k? (knowing I only put about 3500 miles per year on it) Or do I trade it in somewhere while it's still in good condition, just to get it off my hands and move on? With the oil pressure low, oil can't get up to the spots it needs to and it's just going to keep getting worse. I just don't know how long I have before it's going to be worth nothing.

I realize it's not good, and I shouldn't expect much out of it, but I'm wondering if it's better to cut my losses now and trade it in, rather than run it into the ground and get nothing for it. Thoughts?

I've seen a few folks post about these random issues, but not all at the same time, and haven't seen a real solution yet.

We have a 2021 Odyssey Touring. Occasionally, and I mean like maybe just a few times a year, all our smart assist functions will error and not function. These are the exact messages/functions that fail:

Collision Mitigation System Problem/Collision Mitigation Braking System

Road Departure Mitigation System Problem

Lane Keeping Assist Problem

Auto High-Beam Problem

So it not only disables those systems, but cruise control won't work, adaptive or otherwise. It's basically just disabled. We can drive just fine, just without all those features. It is always ALL of those errors, never just a few of them.

The infuriating part of it is, it usually seems to happen right before a trip of an hour or longer lol. This last week we took a vacation and the destination was 4 hours away. It happened right before that 4 hour drive, but then recovered after an hour and a half. Then a week later as we were about to drive home, it died again, but was broken for the entire 4 hour drive. No cruise control for 4 hours on an 80mph freeway lol.

I checked this morning and it's back to normal. But it doesn't ONLY happen on long drives. Just seems like mostly. And it will be fine for months at a time. I can't find any common scenarios, the weather/temperature doesn't seem to have any commonality. It is just very random. If it were a single dirty sensor, I would think it would disable just one or two of those?

I read somewhere that a system update could fix it, but it never happens when I can get it to a dealership. I haven't had my ODBII reader when it happens, but there aren't any codes in memory when checking today. I will try to get it to a dealership when it happens, but I don't expect it now for a few more months.

Any ideas or anyone seen this?

Or any other biking or outdoor exercise? I rode the BST yesterday, was gonna go again tomorrow, but it looks horrendous outside. I don't necessarily feel it, but I'm certain it's not good for me lol. Are yall still hitting it? Or staying in for a bit?

I went out this morning for a road ride, but from my house I couldn't even see the mountains. I rode the BST yesterday and wondered if I should have. But it's much worse now. Was going to go ride tomorrow, but are any of you all voiding it with this horrible air quality?

For those not aware, wildfires in Utah and surrounding states are making air quality horrendous right now.

I've just gotten back into mountain biking this season, and I've been riding in just shorts so far. But I'd like to try to find some lightweight pants to try out. I don't want to spend a ton, and I read on here that the Wrangler ATG pants were a great inexpensive option. I can find them at my local Walmart or Target, but they're all in the straight or regular fit. With biking I feel like they should be tapered or slim fit, but I can't find those anywhere. Unless if I don't know what to search for.

Can anyone share a link of some inexpensive pants they like that work well? I'm open to any brands, just looking for something inexpensive and fairly lightweight.

A couple years ago I helped my sister in law get rid of cable and got her an antenna off Amazon to get local channels on her Sony TV. It has worked pretty good. There is one main channel it wouldn't pick up that she would have liked, but other than that it's been working well. It wasn't an expensive antenna, only about $30, but now she's moved to a different apartment only a couple miles further away from the city than her old house.

Now when I try scan for channels in her new apartment, it finds over 100 channels. But when we go to the guide or try to view any of them, there is no data for them and no signal. A couple times I did get a signal on a channel for about 39 seconds, then would leave the channel and come back to nothing.

I guess I'm wondering is there something I'm doing wrong? Or could it just be the part of town she's in now had a less direct line of sight to the main city? More interference? If that's the case I will look at getting a stronger antenna, but she doesn't have the option to do an outdoor or attic one, so we're kind of limited to indoor ones. Just wondering if there any other ideas.

I have it close to a south facing window (the main city is south of her), so I think the placement is the best I can get.

Here's my rabbit ears info https://www.rabbitears.info/s/2712548

The tv we're working with is the Sony - 55" Class X85K LED 4K UHD Smart Google TV (2023), model KD55X85K

This is the antenna she has currently: https://a.co/d/05ALrA9W

I picked up an old used single axle trailer for light jobs, hauling furniture, tree branches, motorcycles, whatever I need. It has a rear ramp that folds up when towing. The problem with this trailer is that when I'm not hauling anything in it (where I can control the weight distribution), I think the weight of that rear ramp puts more weight on the back than there should be. This makes towing this trailer when empty really sketchy. If I go over 50-55mph, (sometimes even at 45mph) and I hit any sort of bump or have to swerve ar all, it starts to fishtail pretty bad. If I put weight on the tongue it rides great. Generally I put a couple of my winter tires mounted on rims up at the front of the trailer and tie them down. This fixes it and it drives fine on the freeway.

I guess I don't know that there's ang other solution than to just weighing it down when it's empty. Of that's the case, has anyone found any good ballast that is easy to tie down and store? I suppose a couple of 45lb dumbells might be the easiest? The wheels that I use work, they're just a pain to haul around and tie down. Just looking for ideas. Thanks!

 

TL;DR - Wanting to know the minimum needed to convert my bone stock 2006 Trek 4300 to 1x8 setup.

I have an old 2006 Trek 4300 (disc brake) that I have been riding pretty much daily (during the riding season) since I bought it in 2007. Shortly after I got it I realized that I would mostly ride around town for exercise, wasn't getting on the trails much, so I put some road tires on it, and have used it for daily road/local paved trail rides ever since. I am getting a new MTB to actually get into some actual trail riding soon, but this bike has been and will remain my solid road warrior, mostly just for exercise. But it is in dire need of some parts refresh. Bottom bracket is new as of last year, but honestly that's about it. I did replace the rear cassette once, but that was over 15 years ago. I have no idea how it still runs (and stops) smoothly. I have kept it clean and oiled for the most part but that's about all I've done. 

 I have a new chain, rear cassette, and brake pads ready to go on. It really could use new forks, derailleur, shifters, all that jazz, but they aren't immediate needs, so one thing at a time. For right now, the drivetrain is the main concern. Had to get a new chain because it is seriously stretched, and started skipping on me under load the other day. (It's the original 20 year old chain).

So my question is, while I'm putting in a new chain and rear cassette, I thought about replacing the front chain rings as well, and am thinking about just going to a 1x8. sticking with 8 on the rear because I don't have the time or money to change out shifters and derailleur right now, and I don't need much more for my use. So I'll probably stick with that for the long term.

Just wondering what's the minimum I can buy to convert this? I'm assuming I'd need to new cranks, probably bb, but if I could find a chain ring that would work with my old cranks that would be awesome. Just wanting some input, as I'd like to simplify this bike to continue through the years as my road warrior. And this is the first of many future refreshes I'll need to do to keep it running.

And yes, I am kicking myself for not doing this during the winter, but just never found the time lol. Thanks!

p.s. I can provide more pics later if needed, but this one was the only one I had on me, from when I swapped the bb last year. Also, there are new tires on it since that pic as well.

https://preview.redd.it/xcfydqqahq0h1.jpg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b87e273c72cd2ec95a96a230a3ee4c26fddeb3c6

I did happen to grab a shot of the current chain ring this morning:

https://preview.redd.it/rrme0sd8mq0h1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9ffa568522a9d1eeca16142f4516e62f3bc82779