Hi, I’ve had an intermittent issue for the last couple months of my boot device not being detected. Restarting 3-5 times or going into bios and back out would usually fix it. Now it either gets stuck in an infinite boot loop with the occasional message like “repairing disk issues” or a BSOD for a DPC watchdog violation, or it boots into my windows just fine with data intact, except everything is extremely laggy and delayed.
Hi, I’ve had an intermittent issue for the last couple months of my boot device not being detected. Restarting 3-5 times or going into bios and back out would usually fix it. Now it either gets stuck in an infinite boot loop with the occasional message like “repairing disk issues” or a BSOD for a DPC watchdog violation, or it boots into my windows just fine with data intact, except everything is extremely laggy and delayed.
Hi, I’ve had an intermittent issue for the last couple months of my boot device not being detected. Restarting 3-5 times or going into bios and back out would usually fix it. Now it either gets stuck in an infinite boot loop with the occasional message like “repairing disk issues” or a BSOD for a DPC watchdog violation, or it boots into my windows just fine with data intact, except everything is extremely laggy and delayed.
Hi, I’ve had an intermittent issue for the last couple months of my boot device not being detected. Restarting 3-5 times or going into bios and back out would usually fix it. Now it either gets stuck in an infinite boot loop with the occasional message like “repairing disk issues” or a BSOD for a DPC watchdog violation, or it boots into my windows just fine with data intact, except everything is extremely laggy and delayed.
I’ve already tried reseating the SSD, did not help. Laptop is only 20 months old, Lenovo ideapad gaming 3.
Chassis mounted shifter. Doesn’t feel as good as I think it should, have to be careful shifting gears especially 3rd to 4th since it moves around so much. Crunches and pops out of second gear sometimes when cold. 2nd gear is always a pain, makes a very loud clunk noise if I engaged with even the slightest urgency.
Known gearbox leak that I’ll get around to eventually.
Hi there, I hope everyone is well. Just recently I've noticed a coolant leak under the intake manifold, which is leaking onto the rear of the engine block. There was a significant pile of coolant on the block, draining roughly 500mL during a 60 minute trip. I've removed the manifold and I believe I have traced it to the heater return pipe. Where it connects to the hose running to the heater valve, coolant is seeping underneath where the hose slides on, near but not directly under what I assume is an o-ring. Everytime I dry it and come back some hours later, there is more coolant seeping / dripping from under it, which I assume becomes much worse once under pressure. I cannot feel a visible crack, although getting a good look at it while in the car is extremely difficult.
The only thing is, I've never really heard of these leaking from the heater valve side, only where it meets the head? I understand there is limited help others can provide without a definitive pressure test, but that is unfortunately not an option right now. Any insight or reassurance that the pipe should be replaced is more than appreciated.
M52B28 OBD1 (Euro Spec)
Thanks guys
Hi there, my Lenovo 3 thinkpad gaming 5500H RTX2050 has practically stopped working and I’m looking for some advice. For the last month or two I’ve had an intermittent issue when booting: I get an error that the boot drive cannot be found and is trying to boot from the network one. When I go into bios, I can only see the network drive. After 3-4 restarts or a trip into bios and back it’d fire up just fine.
Now, when I turn it on it goes to a black screen with an empty space at the top left, followed by the lenovo boot screen and a loading symbol below it (never seen that before), and loads to infinity. Occasionally it will come up with a preparing automatic repair screen instead, followed by a black screen with a very large cursor.
Today it was trying to repair a disk issue or something on boot and said it might take over an hour, waited 2 and still hadn’t finished. Was forced to close it since I had to head home.
If by some miracle it boots up windows 11 with all my data intact no problem, it has this extreme lag and delay and the disk usage is 100% when lagging, otherwise typical.
Happy to do whatever I need to do to repair it myself, wondering if a loose drive could be causing it, sometimes giving it a good hit on the bottom would allow it to detect my windows again.
Hi there, my Lenovo 3 thinkpad gaming 5500H RTX2050 has practically stopped working and I’m looking for some advice. For the last month or two I’ve had an intermittent issue when booting: I get an error that the boot drive cannot be found and is trying to boot from the network one. When I go into bios, I can only see the network drive. After 3-4 restarts or a trip into bios and back it’d fire up just fine.
Now, when I turn it on it goes to a black screen with an empty space at the top left, followed by the lenovo boot screen and a loading symbol below it (never seen that before), and loads to infinity. Occasionally it will come up with a preparing automatic repair screen instead, followed by a black screen with a very large cursor.
Today it was trying to repair a disk issue or something on boot and said it might take over an hour, waited 2 and still hadn’t finished. Was forced to close it since I had to head home.
If by some miracle it boots up windows 11 with all my data intact no problem, it has this extreme lag and delay and the disk usage is 100% when lagging, otherwise typical.
Happy to do whatever I need to do to repair it myself, wondering if a loose drive could be causing it, sometimes giving it a good hit on the bottom would allow it to detect my windows again.
Trying to figure out what’s going on with my CCV system. The oil return line from the CCV to the oil dipstick is cut in half, not plugged. There is currently no hose connected to the CCV at all except the one to the valve cover (2nd image). Another hose on the intake manifold has been plugged (2nd image green circle), about to check realoem to find what one that is for. Does anyone know what’s going on here? I’m not running a catch can setup or anything like that, genuinely so confused. Car is a M52B28 OBD1
Please ignore the coolant leak lol that’s why I’m in here.
Hi, hoping someone can help me out with this coolant leak. Car started leaking coolant all over the rear engine block intake side, drained about 500mL in a 60 minute trip. What looks to be the heater return pipe is weeping and dripping coolant where the heater valve hose attaches. There was still lots of water inside it that hadn’t leaked out when removing the hose however I’m not sure if that means anything since it’s a pressurised system.
Has anyone experienced something similar, and what was the solution? The hose was clamped tight and in perfect condition, the only thing I could see leaking would be the heater return line. Thanks
Currently chasing a coolant leak under the intake manifold, what should I replace / delete while it’s out?
Looks like the vanos oil line is leaking so that’s first on my list. Will put some new gaskets on the manifold as well
M52B28
Did a coolant flush around 200-300kms ago, held coolant very well until yesterday when it lost close to a litre from the expansion tank. Intake side of the block is covered in coolant, I’m assuming it’s the head gasket. No other signs are present yet but I’m yet to drain the oil.
Hi peeps, what’s the most common cause for a misfire on warm crank and an intermittent rough idle? Hoping someone has experienced similar before I pull the manifold off and inspect all the vacuum lines, cheers.
M52B28
Hi guys, car has a rough crank, sometimes very long on warm starts. I can hear it spluttering like it wants to start up, but sometimes takes awhile to actually turn on. Also got a bit of a sticky idle, when revving on idle the revs stick at 1000 for a second before dropping to the usual 650.
Have just cleaned the ICV, seems to have fixed my rough idle issue (minus the sticky idle).
Apologies for the loud chime lol
Hi, hoping to confirm this is definitely a vacuum leak before I try get my hands on a smoke machine. Does this on cold start like 4/5 times, when it does it happens in a perfect sequence every ~20 seconds, and sometimes it doesn’t happen at all and holds a steady idle.
Euro ‘98 M52 328i
Hi, anyway to know without buying a test kit? Car gives off a lot of smoke on startup, it has been sitting for a little bit and has a cat delete + burning oil. Exhaust doesn’t smell of coolant but the oil cap looks a lil milky. Can’t tell if it’s using coolant yet, only just finished bleeding it after changing the radiator.
i guys I really need some help here. I’ve just done a full coolant flush and radiator change on my e36 and now it is overheating really really badly.
The car took about 8.5-9L of coolant, and it is a 1998 M52B28 328i. I have a self bleeding M3 expansion tank, no air came out when I opened it after it started overheating.
I have an aftermarket water temp sensor which sits on the upper radiator hose, which is what told me it was overheating. So basically, I took it for a test drive, the aftermarket temp sensor took ages to start displaying temp which was weird, usually it shows it immediately and is already at 40 degrees by the time the one on the dash even moves, but today it didn’t even budge until after the main dash gauge had reached the middle, after maybe 7 minutes of running. Then after about 10 minutes of driving the aftermarket temp sensor hit 90 degrees, then climbed to 110 degrees in about 5 seconds which is when I shut the engine off. Note the dash gauge was still sitting middle. When I got out to feel the hoses the lower radiator hose was still cold, suggesting the thermostat had barely, if even opened. The top radiator hose was nice and hot. Waited about 15 minutes till the aftermarket gauge had dropped to 40, drove it maybe 100 seconds before it got over 90 again. Waited 45 minutes until it was at about 25 degrees and managed to keep it below 70 degrees for about 2.5 minutes as I gunned it home.
Things to note:
I accidentally tore the ground wire for the aftermarket sensor when pulling the radiator hose, I pulled the wire and put it under the screw which the ground wire was originally connected to. The main wire had also come out which stopped it from working so put them back in and it came back to life (all while changing the radiator).
Never had any issues with that sensor showing overheating before, used to run a cool 75-85 degrees at operating temp per the gauge.
Hi guys I really need some help here. I’ve just done a full coolant flush and radiator change on my car and now it is overheating really really badly.
The car took about 8.5-9L of coolant, which is a little less than max, although there is still room for another 250ml ish in the expansion tank. I have a self bleeding M3 expansion tank, no air came out when I opened it after it starting overheating.
I have an aftermarket water temp sensor which sits on the upper radiator hose, which is what told me it was overheating. So basically, I took it for a test drive, the aftermarket temp sensor took ages to start displaying temp which was weird, usually it shows it immediately and is already at 40 degrees by the time the one on the dash even moves, but today it didn’t even budge until after the main dash gauge had reached the middle, after maybe 7 minutes of running. Then after about 10 minutes of driving the aftermarket temp sensor hit 90 degrees, then climbed to 110 degrees in about 5 seconds which is when I shut the engine off. Note the dash gauge was still sitting middle. When I got out to feel the hoses the lower radiator hose was still cold, suggesting the thermostat had barely, if even opened. The top radiator hose was nice and hot. Waited about 15 minutes till the aftermarket gauge had dropped to 40, drove it maybe 100 seconds before it got over 90 again. Waited 45 minutes until it was at about 25 degrees and managed to keep it below 70 degrees for about 2.5 minutes as I gunned it home.
Things to note:
I accidentally tore the ground wire for the aftermarket sensor when pulling the hose, I pulled the wire and put it back under the screw. The connectors had also come out which stopped it from working so put them back in and it came back to life (all while changing the radiator).
Never had any issues with that sensor showing overheating before, used to run a cool 75-85 degrees at operating temp per the gauge.
Hi guys I really need some help here. I’ve just done a full coolant flush and radiator change on my e36 and now it is overheating really really badly.
The car took about 8.5-9L of coolant, and it is a M52B28 328i. I have a self bleeding M3 expansion tank, no air come out when I opened it after it starting overheating.
I have an aftermarket water temp sensor which sits on the upper radiator hose, which is what told me it was overheating. So basically, I took it for a test drive, the aftermarket temp sensor took ages to start displaying temp which was weird, usually it shows it immediately and is already at 40 degrees by the time the one on the dash even moves, but today it didn’t even budge until after the main dash gauge had reached the middle, after maybe 7 minutes of running. Then after about 10 minutes of driving the aftermarket temp sensor hit 90 degrees, then climbed to 110 degrees in about 5 seconds which is when I shut the engine off. Note the dash gauge was still sitting middle. When I got out to feel the hoses the lower radiator hose was still cold, suggesting the thermostat had barely, if even opened. The top radiator hose was nice and hot. Waited about 15 minutes till the aftermarket gauge had dropped to 40, drove it maybe 100 seconds before it got over 90 again. Waited 45 minutes until it was at about 25 degrees and managed to keep it below 70 degrees for about 2.5 minutes as I gunned it home.
Things to note:
I accidentally tore the ground wire for the aftermarket sensor when pulling the hose, I pulled the wire and put it back under the screw. The connectors had also come out which stopped it from working so put them back in and it came back to life (all while changing the radiator).
Never had any issues with that sensor showing overheating before, used to run a cool 75-85 degrees at operating temp per the gauge.