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My wife and I had a fantastic three-week trip in Portugal this past May, visiting Peniche, Ferrel, Baleal, Atouguia da Baleia, Óbidos and Lisbon. This was my first time visiting Portugal and Europe, and I’ve been left with nothing but awe and wonder.
I’ve sectioned this report as follows:
- Thoughts on places we visited
- Speaking Portuguese
- Payment
- Uber vs Bolt
- Getting mobile data on our phones
- Camera used
^(This post is entirely written by me and no AI was used at any point.)
Peniche
Peniche was hands-down our favourite location from this trip! It’s a beautiful, cozy, small town built on a peninsula that used to be an actual island. It’s about 2.6 km (1.65 mi) in diameter so you can explore the entire peninsula on foot—which was what we did. Peniche was extremely photogenic, with views of beaches, cliffs, colourful houses, rocky plateaus, lighthouses, and a fortress from the 16th century, all within the peninsula.
We particularly enjoyed the Museu Nacional Resistência e Liberdade (National Museum of Resistance and Freedom), which detailed the atrocities committed during Portugal’s dictatorship.
Our favourite place for food/drinks in Peniche was Calé! They had great options for coffee drinks, breads, pastries, breakfast and brunch. We went there pretty much daily while staying in Ferrel—sometimes twice a day!
Ferrel
For the first half of the trip, we stayed in a parish near Peniche, called Ferrel, which had the Baleal island with breathtaking views. I’ve been to other coastal cities and beaches before, but nothing comes close to the beauty of Baleal.
Tugo’s and Master’s Burger Ferrel were our two favourite restaurants. I had the best damn burgers in my life at Master’s Burger and we just had to go back again for one last meal before leaving for Lisbon. At Tugo’s, I really enjoyed the Club Sandwich and my wife the Breakfast Quesadilla.
Atouguia da Baleia
We visited my wife’s family, who lives in a tiny hamlet near Atouguia da Baleia. Funnily enough, villagers told me that I was the first ever Asian to set foot in their village. I found that very amusing. I saw some incredible views and buildings in Atouguia da Baleia when my wife’s uncle drove us around the area. It’s a parish with a rich history and I could really feel how far the place goes back through the streets, churches and houses.
Óbidos
To visit Óbidos, we took a bus from the Peniche Bus Terminal. The roundtrip tickets for two cost only €13.60, and we conveniently got some nice views of rural Portugal on the way. We spent a day exploring the castle and went all the way up to the walls. It was a bit dangerous as there was no railing, but it gave you great views of the houses inside the castle and also the landscape outside the castle.
Lisbon
We spent the second half of the trip in Lisbon, which was a completely different vibe compared to Peniche/Ferrel/Atouguia da Baleia. It reminded us a lot of our home city, Toronto, Canada—it’s modern, new, developed and polished. We walked a lot around different neighborhoods and even visited the University of Lisbon, where I was impressed by the imposing brutalist architecture of the Torre do Tombo National Archive. The jacarandas were a beautiful sight in the city! Prettier than cherry blossoms, IMO!
My favourite part of Lisbon was Alfama. It was just so unique and unlike anything I’d seen before. Having lived in flat cities most of my life, it boggled my mind to see houses and roads built on such steep hills. We didn’t end up going into Castelo de São Jorge because we already went into a castle in Óbidos, and we wanted to actually take photos of the castle from outside.
We had the best foods of our lives in Lisbon!
- shakar had incredible breakfast/brunch foods and specialty coffee. We went there multiple times and their "Fitness Brunch" was the best duck meat I’ve ever had. Their pour-overs were fantastic and I ended up buying a bag of their coffee beans to brew back home.
- We had the most delicious meal of our lives at Claras em Castelo in Alfama. It was a very small mom-and-pop restaurant. I had the marinated salmon and the sauce that was made with wine from Porto was divine.
- We also went to Jezzus Pizzaria & Padaria multiple times and loved their pizza.
- We had pasteis de nata from Manteigaria and Pastelaria Santo António and they were incredible! Certainly way better than any pasteis de nata we’ve had in Canada.
We stayed at Locke de Santa Joana and really enjoyed it. It’s an "aparthotel"—hybrid of apartment and hotel. We got a one-bedroom unit with a fully equipped kitchen and in-suite washer/dryer, which was great because we could do laundry and had the option to cook if we wanted. I will say that I would absolutely not want to stay in any hotel near/in Baixa or in Alfama. It wasn’t even peak tourism season when we were there, and it already felt like there were a lot of people in those areas. We were so grateful that Locke de Santa Joana was kind of tucked away while still being steps away from a major subway station.
We used the subway and buses to get around the city. We got the navegante occasional card from one of the subway stations, but we later realized that we could have also just tap via our credit cards.
Overall, while we had fun in Lisbon, both my wife and I preferred the first half of our trip in Peniche/Ferrel because those small towns just felt more "lived-in," authentic and characteristic. Lisbon, for the most part, felt very similar to Toronto.
Speaking Portuguese
We always spoke Portuguese first to people we interacted with (servers in restaurants, shopkeepers etc.). I think it’s disrespectful to go to a country without learning a bit of their language and at least try to use it, even as tourists. I’d been learning European Portuguese for almost a year using Practice Portuguese so I could speak and understand some Portuguese.
In Peniche/Ferrel, some people looked amused when I, an East Asian, spoke Portuguese to them, but most smiled and responded back to us in Portuguese, even though I could hear them speak English to other people later. In Lisbon, because English is so widely spoken and we were so obviously tourists, most servers responded back in English. However, we went to a very traditional Portuguese restaurant and our server seemed to be quite pleasantly surprised that I spoke Portuguese. He even said to me "You speak very well," so that was nice!
Payment
We are Canadians so this might or might not be relevant depending on where you are from. Most restaurants and stores (even in Peniche/Ferrel) accepted cards (they referred to it as "Multibanco"), and those that didn’t made it very clear so just be sure to pay attention.
We mostly use the Wise prepaid VISA card for payment as it doesn’t charge FX fees. We loaded it with CAD and let Wise convert per-transaction. We were always charged in euro, which is the ideal option—you wouldn’t want the payment machine to convert the currency before you pay as it’s usually higher in fees. I heard some people experienced that but we never did.
Uber vs Bolt
We downloaded and installed Bolt because Bolt is European and we wanted to avoid American products as much as possible. However, we ended up using only Uber when we needed to go between Peniche and Ferrel, and from our hotel to the airport because every time we compared, Uber always had cheaper prices and more vehicles available. Sometimes, Bolt quoted us almost double the price compared to Uber for the same trip.
Mobile data
My phone supports eSIM so I bought a package from Airalo. My wife’s phone doesn’t support eSIM so she went to Continente (a supermarket) in Peniche and bought a physical prepaid SIM.
Buying a SIM there was cheaper. She got unlimited data for €20 (~$32CAD) while I paid $50CAD for 50GB of data. In some places, she would have reception while I did not.
Camera
All the photos were straight-out-of-camera JPEGs taken with my Fujifilm X-E5 and the XF23mm ƒ2.8 lens. No retouching was done after.
Photo locations
- 1: Baleal
- 2–10: Libson
- 11: Atouguia da Baleia
- 12–13: Óbidos
- 14–19: Peniche
- 20: Ferrel