If a herrera gets infertile early on from losing nutrients, can it still become prime if:
It visits sanctuary
Hits 4 PZ
Hits 2 MZ
Achieves perfect diet
(Does NOT get muscle spasms
Does NOT nest or hatch from egg)
?
On the non T version there is no mount to install an exhaust slider under the rear pegs like there is on the 300/500 models.
I'm thinking on creating a bracket for it to add an exhaust protection in case of an unfortunate tip over. Just for kicks tbh.
Has anyone done something of the like on their 1100?
So this is my wobble story.
TLDR: Wheel counter weights were the culprit, they need to be split across both sides of the rim.
2025 Honda Rebel 1100 SE
Last season, I bought the bike brand new. Puig new gen touring screen, memphis shades hand guards + lowers, Viking bags saddlebags. 0 wobble from 0 to 100 mph at any speed. Deceleration, no wobble ever, high speed, no wobble ever. Cruise control hands off bars, no wobble whatsoever.
I didn't like the suspension on this bike, nor did I like the feel of the tires, because I need higher ground clearance and lean capacity. That's just me. So in march after 6000 miles I swapped the tires for Metzeler Cruisetecs, and the fork springs with Progressive (Burly brand kit) and rear shocks with Progressive (Burly stilettos). I removed the wheels, brought them to the dealership for the tires swap. I took the shocks off, the fork off, did the suspensions. A blend of 10w and 15w Maxima in the fork.
The ride: vastly improved. Lean angle and roll is great, ground clearance is literally 1.9" higher. Perfect.
No wobble at high speed. But, between 35 and 45 mph, a slight wobble. Literally a shimmy, not a big deal because not something that would likely put me in danger, because it only would happen with hands off bars. One finger on one side, the wobble would stop. but it didn't sit right with me. (I don't ride with hands off bars, but noticed it in cruise control readjusting my helmet one day).
Since I did everything myself but the tires, I naturally suspected the new fork. So I started fine tuning here, there, here again. Front or back, no matter the setting, always that annoying wobble. With or without windscreen, with or without saddle bags, wobble every time.
Obviously I inspected both tires the very 1st time I noticed: brand new tires can be faulty. But they seemed fine. Different tire pressures didn't help (I run 34 front and 37 rear).
No visible issue with the rims either.
Then I realised the counter weights the dealership put on the front wheel were over 60gr total. It is not unusual but a bit on the heavy side. I do use Fobo TPMS for the valves, and thats 7gr (same as 1 weight), so I tried without them: still a wobble.
I kinda trusted the dealership for the wheel balance because I know they use the latest tech for it, both static and dynamic...
I checked my triple tree stem bearing, and it was fine, but for good measure I gave it a click or 2, and still... that freaking wobble.
I was going to bring the front wheel to my dealership for rebalancing, but these guys have failed me for a few other things before (1st oil change I had them put 1" risers and they mounted them the wrong way, toward front rather then rear if you can believe it...) AND they forgot one crush washer under the oil pan! Unbelievable. Honda licensed dealership, popular one in Illinois...
Anyways, here comes the solution: I was re-reading the service manual and there is a note about wheel balancing: if the necessary counter weights are above 10gr, they need to be mounted on both sides of the rim, not just the one side.
Well, I have a pack of weights from motion pro, so what did I do: I marked the center spot of the weights the dealership installed, and removed them. Then I split the total weight half half and put mine, same spot, but on each side this time. I did this both front and rear (60gr front, 30gr rear), and guess what... The wobble was absolutely totally completely eliminated... Finally a smooth ride across the whole spectrum.
So, if you get that same wobble as I saw a few Rebel owners do at the same speed (including Ontherebel11 youtube channel, but he concluded his issue was saddlebags, but if I recall he still had a slight wobble at the end of the video without the bags?), check your counter weights on the rims. Most of the time dealerships simply install them on the side opposite from the brake rotor. But over 10gr, they need to be split to both sides of the rim.
As it turns out, on top of not following Honda guidelines, my dealership was also too lazy for turning the tire 180° after getting the 60gr number: it is a rule of thumb to do that when counter weights exceed 45-50gr, because it could mean both the rim and the tire have their heavy spot around the same spot.
BTW I think it's worth mentionning the dealership in question is Honda Northwest in Crystal Lake, Il. If you value your safety and the people you love and safety on our roads in general, avoid these guys.
Would this have any resell value?
Nightdive Studios doing the bare minimum, will release a cash grab remaster of the 1st Thief. Not even Thief 1+2...
Anyway, like System Shock 2 Remaster, it is apparently made on their KEX engine.
Since that has absolutely 0 chance of bringing better atmosphere than the OG game, and since from the trailer it seems they basically copy/cut the OG game into their greyish engine, the only upside as far as I'm concerned would be to finally be able to play the 1st Thief in VR with this remaster.
How likely/easy would it be for a VR mod/injector to come out for this?
I wish the previous VR Thief crap that came out last year didn't exist, and studios out there would have simply remade the first 3 Thief games to VR instead. But no, we got a poor VR game with no soul, and a copy/paste flat game instead. This didnt need a flat remaster, like Tomb Raider did. It needed a flat+VR port...
Twice
Who was it? :D
I got the T598 that came with 2 pedals.
Then I got the Raceline Pedals III. So I have 3 pedals, but no load cell.
But now that the load cell is out, I see it comes with a larger plate and a full pedal. I assume it ia great if you have the stock T598 2 pedals right?
But if like me, and many others, you already paid 180$ for the 3 pedals, what the hell is that? Why can't I just get the load cell for my Raceline Pedals III???
I'm baffled. Can someone explain?