u/BadOk3617

Hi guys,

While replacing my fuel pump on my '96 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0L I broke the fuel line from the fuel pump to the fuel filter. And it appears that this part has not been available for quite some time.

The joint where the line goes into the fuel pump was what snapped. It's a 3/8" quick disconnect fitting going into what appears to be a 5/16" line.

Any thoughts or suggestions on how to replace/repair the line?

https://preview.redd.it/qm6segdztwhh1.png?width=567&format=png&auto=webp&s=befb7f72c31c6d19ea1c91840069a7e8373c5c1c

Thanks!!

I bought an item from Buyee since ZenMarket wouldn't touch it as they had problems with the seller before.

Buyee was never my first choice, but I figured how bad could it be? For a $2 electronic dictionary, they charged me $60.49 for protective packaging (the original box was put inside a standard box, enlarging my package but actually doing some good. Still, rather lazy packaging).

And then it was 9,500 Yen for just the shipping.

Yeah, I won't be back.

Edit: I meant to say that my *shipping* was $60, I had already paid for the protective packaging. Thanks to FreeAd2458 for pointing this out.

https://preview.redd.it/hwxnrrq1bjdh1.png?width=1194&format=png&auto=webp&s=312d48a5c49ee4ea8d60a2d97a2bbb075d4d5a8e

They were purchased in error, and courtesy of the AliExpress/QIDI store, I'm free to do with them as I please. Rather than toss them, I'm hoping that I can help someone out.

There are two of each.

DM me with where you want them sent to (it doesn't have to be your house, a place of work or your favorite pizza parlor will do) and I will send them your way.

Stateside addresses will get first dibs, but I am not adverse to sending these things on an epic road trip depending upon the cost.

And while I love my neighbors, especially to the north and south of me, customs duties are on you guys.

Nope.

https://preview.redd.it/fh7nrnzwjrch1.png?width=566&format=png&auto=webp&s=d8411aba4609515bc78fe559643110a28988fa54

Got lucky finding a nearly flawless fx-190 for a song. Not sure how the scale works, but since it's destined for friend in Israel I didn't want to fool with it.

Looks brand new.

Something that I really don't like about Casios and some Sharps is the metal cover on the back. Easy to scratch, easy to dent.

Super clean on the inside.

This cover put up a fight, and it has to be positioned side-to-side just so to get it to close correctly.

Pretty...

Looks like it was purchased and then put in storage.

Up until now ZM has always used SpeedX to complete the Stateside delivery of my packages (45 of them, so one could say that I've detected a pattern). But five of the remaining six are going to be delivered by way of USPS.

As much as I like spending time with our local Post Office guys (I was just down there this afternoon pointing out that the package that I had sent last week from Tennessee to Indiana probably has no business whatsoever showing up in Dallas, Texas. Yes, seriously), I'm a bit concerned about how my delicate electronics are going to weather this storm.

ZenMarket, if you are listening, you probably should alert your customers to a change of delivery, as they may not be comfortable with your decision and could then choose to select a different carrier. Finding this out mid-shipment is pretty crappy service.

I got this about three years ago, and like the dolt that I am, I never tracked down a power adapter.

Duh...

https://preview.redd.it/2v9ho0ce1s8h1.png?width=674&format=png&auto=webp&s=f556a3f7ed863795223913054ec125cff65002c9

So I got one from, of all places, Japan. Runs off of 100 AC, but details, details...

https://preview.redd.it/s854bwpp1s8h1.png?width=613&format=png&auto=webp&s=b81a4b93393f6f803b377e3ec75e38380f1318b9

Turns out that it didn't want to run with a bad/leaky battery. Something to remember if you come across the same issue. Removing the battery got it working again (something the not all calculators and retro computers tolerate well so be careful).

https://preview.redd.it/u37bt5732s8h1.png?width=603&format=png&auto=webp&s=ea9d2bd9bdba97d08fc546f338164f33eac4b66b

It came with a large (to me) library of memory cards. Twenty five factory, and fifteen user cards.

https://preview.redd.it/q4gqwj5x2s8h1.png?width=649&format=png&auto=webp&s=70cdcdd53d8a27b9168250efc89e8298000f4c9b

And an overlay.

https://preview.redd.it/g6mjue543s8h1.png?width=598&format=png&auto=webp&s=1f963086149faa97fbadd80fd04482337a4bbea9

And some more...

https://preview.redd.it/b3qcbzcg3s8h1.png?width=623&format=png&auto=webp&s=00678a2748db7b4161ed530bdf019c24f877aad3

And the leaky battery. Currently in eternal timeout.

https://preview.redd.it/1ugtbtu14s8h1.png?width=627&format=png&auto=webp&s=7d0e5dafc468be8ff131587e197e77955bd53210

I purchased two of these with the idea that one might end up being used for spare parts. It turns out that one had been dropped and got roughed up a bit. The other one was in very good shape from what I can tell.

First the good one:

Really not bad at all.

The other half, nice and tidy. Note the shield with a gray and a black wire soldered to it. Also note the hand-drawn PCB.

I'm guessing that it's all held down by 2mm x 4mm screws. Just a hunch.

Now the "Bad" one. Note that the printer is rotated a bit counter-clockwise. The battery hold-down has been knocked about 30 degrees clockwise (and bent, which you can't see from this angle), and the shield on the far right is loose.

I've seen worse.

The top cover of the "Bad" 1300S. Not terrible.

A bit roughed up.

A picture of the "Bad" 1300S, with a ruptured cap in the upper left.

https://preview.redd.it/fpfoghslbl8h1.png?width=675&format=png&auto=webp&s=e84cd0a5daa50f863a238a9c4f08b2edd29e09f6

The "Bad" 1300S had its printer knocked loose. I missed the shot of how it was mounted, but here's a preview of the PCB.

I hope that they all work.

Here we find out why the printer was loose (what I was trying to take a picture of). The large round black thing is a rubber plug, and the smaller gray thing is a nut in the shape of an inverted cone that expands the rubber plug as the bolt gets tightened. This sits in a plastic cup on the bottom cover.

A bit of a surprise as to how they did this.

One of the bad Ni-Cad packs. I'm thinking of using a Li-Ion pack with a boost converter.

Yuk.

This one's a goner.

At least it didn't get all over everything.

This is what the outside looks like.

The pretty one...

That's it for now. I think that a good cleaning and recapping, followed by a new battery pack and it will be ready to try out.

It was supposed to be a Casio Memory-8S, but I ended up with a Sharp ELSI MATE EL-8036

A bit of a surprise.

And I kinda like it. It's surprisingly heavy, and it takes two AG10 batteries, which I've got but I really can't justify putting them in just for a photo-shoot.

Big fat warning: This procedure involves modifications that will require you to disconnect and remove your old Sovol bed. Should you not take notes beforehand, this may result in any sort of mishap including personal injury and death. Please take photos before removal of the wires, or of the results afterwards if you didn't. Thank you.

This modification is rather simple (in my feeble mind), but if it seems complicated please reconsider using the R3men bed.

All risks are assumed by you.

Earlier this year I taco'ed my SV08 bed and the printer was unusable.

I considered getting a R3men graphite bed, but I was worried that the bed might crack given my lack of forethought at times.

So I purchased a 13.8" x 13.8" x 3/8" plate of "ATP 5" from:

https://www.midweststeelsupply.com/store/castaluminumplateatp5

A roll of HOAOH "Thermal Adhesive Tape, 25m x 10mm x 0.20mm Double Side" thermal tape (fantastic stuff!) from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085CLXM7J

iHMeiju "Tape 2" x 30yard, High Temperature Polyimide Tape, 500 Fahrenheit Degree Heat Resisitant Heat". AKA "Kapton tape".

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D979ZV7G

A 430mm x 430mm magnetic sheet for the bed from Fabreeko (they currently have a 355mm x 355mm sheet which is almost perfect for $14.16). I purchased the oversized sheet because that was the smallest one that they had.

https://www.fabreeko.com/products/magnetic-sheets-for-pei-beds-with-high-temp-glue?_pos=1&_sid=7187a5cb3&_ss=r&variant=44519051723007

At least nine 3mm screws and nuts. The length that you will need will be determined by the thickness of the plate that you purchased. That length will be the distance required to go through the new plate, the old Sovol plate, and mount into the brass inserts in the plastic bed holder.

Be sure to purchase flat head bolts.

Before we get started, do not scratch, cut, bend, staple, or mutilate the white surface of your Sovol plate as this is your heater. It will be carrying 110 volts of electricity, and as we all know, it's dangerous.

Electricity can make young men old, and old men scarce.

Of course, this is unless you live in an area where the systems runs on 220 volts, and then it's doubly so.

Doing any of the above can also lead to a bed that hurts you, and either fails, or fails spectacularly.

Assembly instructions:

1. Assembly is pretty easy, disassemble the old bed making sure to take plenty of pictures. Put all of your loose parts in a safe place.

1a) Imagine for a moment one of your electrical wires catching on something and ripping the wire off and ruining your old Sovol plate. Tape the electrical wires to the bed to avoid this from happening.

1b) Measure the resistance of your heater wires and write this down. Measure them again before you reconnect the wires to the printer. If they are appreciably different, then there is something wrong with your heater. Do not apply power to the bed if this is the case.

2. Use a hot air gun to loosen up the magnet from the old bed. Remove the old magnet from the bed. Stick it to your fridge or throw it away.

3. Check the fit of the new bed (the Tool Jig plate) in the plastic holder from the base of the printer. Round down the corners of the plate if the corners of the plate interfere with the plastic shell.

4. Clamp the old Sovol bed/heater and the new plate together, and using the original mounting holes as a guide to drill nine holes through the new plate (eight holes around the perimeter of the plate, and one in the center) by using a drill bit that's slightly larger than the diameter of the 3mm bolts that you bought to hold the beds together.

5. After drilling each hole, run a bolt through that hole and attach a nut to hold it there. This will help keep the alignment true before you drill the next hole and not create problems with misaligned holes later.

I enlisted the aid of one of my machinist friends and he made sure that the holes were straight and aligned. He used his drill press to make sure that the holes were perpendicular to the plate. It's nice to have machinist friends.

6. We finished up by countersinking the new holes as seen in the next photo. The countersunk side is the side that tour magnetic sheet as well as your build plate attaches to. Protect this surface from damage using a sheet of cardboard between the bad and your workbench.

This is where I made a small error and messed up the hole for mounting the bonding cable.

The picture below shows where I screwed up with the location of the threaded hole for the bonding wire. Try not to do this. Wait until the old bed/new heater has been (temporarily) mounted to the new plate before drilling and tapping this hole. If you decide to live dangerously, and drill it before bolting the two plates together, you will likely have the bonding hole misaligned.

This is the bottom, or electrical side of the original Sovol bed. We will use a drill bit for tapping a 3mm hole and tap the hole for a short 3mm screw to attach the bonding wire to the plate.

This is where I put the new hole for the bonding screw. It's in a safe area, but it's better not to screw up in the first place. 😄 You can easily ruin the heater by drilling in the wrong spot. Trust me when I say that it's best not to have to do this.

We put a new hole here and tapped the new plate for a 3mm bolt to connect the bonding wire to the plate.

7. Temporarily bolt the plates together, and using a drill bit sized for tapping a 3mm threaded hole, drill through the bonding hole in the Sovol plate and into the new plate. Now tap the hole for the 3mm bolt.

8. Take the plates apart and de-burr all holes on both sides of each plate. Any leftover metal bits could affect heat transfer between the heater (Sovol) plate and the new plate. Clean both plates (outdoors) with IPA.

9. Next comes the thermal tape. Apply strips without overlapping with any other strips of tape. Be sure to apply the tape to the side of the new plate without the countersunk holes. It's okay to cover up the bonding screw hole on the new plate.

9a) You are applying the tape to the side of the new plate that doesn't have the countersunk holes, right? Just asking for a friend...

10. Place blocks under the new plate to raise it higher enough off of your workbench (an inch will do) to allow your 3mm mounting bolts to hang loose below the plate.

Applying a small piece of tape to the end of your strip will allow you to pull the tape and separate the blue protective strip from the thermal tape (dispose of the blue tape).

11. Remove the plastic tape from the thermal tape. Note the helpful hint at the bottom of the preceding picture.

12. Take your Sovol plate with the electrical side up, and use your 3mm bolts as locating pins in the mounting holes. Do not join the two plates just yet.

13. Save one of the bolts to use for locating the bonding screw hole. This is the first bolt that you will mount to the new plate as it will align the two plates together. So insert this bolt through the bonding hole on the Sovol plate and screw it into the threaded hole in the new plate. This is where it's nice to have a friend help out.

Take your time as it is doubtful that you will be able to separate the two plates without damaging the flowery & delicate Sovol plate once you touch the plates together if you get the alignment wrong.

14. Once the two plates are together, remove a 3mm bolt (one bolt at a time please) and run it through from the other side (the countersunk side) and put one of the 3mm nuts on it (we want to tighten the bolts up to snugly clamp the two plates together, but not too much. Since the 3mm nuts will be removed and sent to live happily forever in your junk box). Do this for all of the bolts.

15. If you haven't done so already, remove the bolt from the bonding hole and use a shorter bolt to attach whichever of the two bonding wires is supposed to go to the bed. What? you didn't mark the wire before disconnecting it? Neither did I.

15a) Try not to be like me and use a bolt that is slightly too long, and dimple the surface of your new bed. If you do, relax, and remove the bolt and use a shorter one. Once the magnetic sheet is applied, cut a small hole in the magnetic sheet where the dimple is and your bed mesh will never notice.

Kapton tape applied to the bottom of the bed to slow down heat loss from the surface that doesn't need to be heated.

16. Optionally apply Kapton tape to the bottom of the bed. You don't have to do this, and if you don't, there is no need to purchase the tape.

16a) Important. Leave the areas where the thermistor and thermal fuse are uncovered.

17. Your new bed is finished. Remove the 3mm bolts and nuts, saving the bolts for use in mounting the bed to the printer. The nuts are no longer needed.

Be sure to have the bonding wire attached to the bed and all of the wires routed through the hole in the plastic bed holder to the bottom side of the printer before you bolt the bed down.

Make sure that there aren't any pinched wires before bolting down the bed. Mount the bed by screwing it to the plastic mount.

18. These next steps are extremely important and must not be skipped.

Check the wiring to make sure that there isn't an open circuit using a multimeter. A short circuit will probably announce itself, if you get my drift. But you don't want this, so check the reading against the readings that you took at the beginning of the project.

And measure the resistance between the bed and the power conductors to make sure that there is no connection between these as it would expose you to high voltage.

Once the bed is mounted, run a bed mesh before applying the magnetic sheet. Low spots in the mesh can be adjusted by applying a layer or two of Kapton tape over the mounting hole on the bed mount. The proper way would be to buy a shim pack and make proper shims. Pffft...

In any case, get it to where you like it, give it a few good thumps and run the mesh again to see if anything shifted. Tighten the screws moderately and check your mesh once more. If you are happy, apply your magnetic sheet and get back to printing.

Enjoy!

I'm getting this fault:

https://preview.redd.it/yjvz2diu1s5h1.png?width=394&format=png&auto=webp&s=7e1ab76abc8e27198d009ba612b342275f653e98

Because the z_calibration.py file doesn't exist in Sovol Mainline.

https://preview.redd.it/q4jbo1jj1s5h1.png?width=677&format=png&auto=webp&s=142130fd794ba98f7f67eb5dcea92008cfdc1e10

Could someone tell me if I need to change the name of the file to "z_calibration.py", change the section where it is being called from to "z_offset_calibration.py" (BTW, what file is this in?)

Or whatever else I would need to do.

Thanks!