u/Exact-Transition9317

It's been brutally hot here in New York City for last couple of days with temperatures in the 90s. We literally had three days of spring before the blast furnace kicked in. Makes me wonder why I buy so many jackets. Pointless. Anyway, today I'm featuring this pair of 12 ounce ONI DENIM. I got these from Blue Owl last January. I remember when they arrived I felt a little disappointed because they seemed so light. The quality was excellent and the black and olive is beautiful but I typically prefer heavier denim. Well today I was grateful i had these on hand. This weather has made me realize that I need more light weight denim. All my stuff is like 17 to 21 ounces which is too heavy for the summer in New York. Your recommendations are welcome.

In Photo: MERZ B SCHWANEN JKT08LI Cropped Worker's Linen Jacket-Deep Black, SAMURAI Heavyweight T-Shirt in Moss Green, SUGARCANE Garrison Belt, ONI DENIM 246-BKOL "Kiraku" 12oz Selvedge Denim - Clean Straight Fit, VIBERG Scout Wedge in CF Stead Unicorn (Elk) 2030 Last Black

It's been brutally hot here in New York City for last couple of days with temperatures in the 90s. We literally had three days of spring before the blast furnace kicked in. Makes me wonder why I buy all of these jackets. Today I'm featuring this pair of 12 ounce ONI DENIM. I got these from Blue Owl last January. I remember when they arrived I felt a little disappointed because they seemed so light. The quality was there and the black and olive is beautiful but I typically go in for the heavier denim. Today I was grateful i had them. I think I need to start focusing a little more on lighter weight denim. All my stuff is like 17 to 21 ounces which is too heavy for the summer in New York. Any recommendations?

In The Photo: MERZ B SCHWANEN JKT08LI Cropped Worker's Linen Jacket-Deep Black, SAMURAI Heavyweight T-Shirt in Moss Green, SUGARCANE Garrison Belt, ONI DENIM 246-BKOL "Kiraku" 12oz Selvedge Denim - Clean Straight Fit, VIBERG Scout Wedge in CF Stead Unicorn (Elk) 2030 Last Black

As I’ve said before, I’m a workwear guy. I’ve got a lot from SHIP JOHN, RED CLOUDS COLLECTIVE , TIN DUCK and GREASEPOINT WORKWEAR. In recent years I’ve gotten a lot of grief from friends of mine who think GREASEPOINT is too expensive. I wholeheartedly disagree . Look at the fades on these! These double fronts are double indigo..They’re “made to measure” so it’s not like they’re just coming off the rack. The guy is actually making them for you personally. It’s interesting how the people that complain the loudest about prices think they themselves deserve a fair wage but the person who is making their boots, or their pants or their coat should accept less. It’s been my experience that cheap isn’t quality and quality isn’t cheap.

In The Photo: TELLASON 13 oz. Chore Coat-Green, WHITESVILLE Tee-Black, NICKS Wickett & Craig Black English Bridle Leather Heavy Work Belt, GREASEPOINT WORKWEAR 14.5 oz Double Indigo Vidalia Mills Selvedge Denim, FLAME PANDA Black Maryam Horsebutt 7 inch Brogue Cap Toe Service Boots

The D5727 "Bengala" is an interesting piece from Studio D’Artisan.. This 12oz shirt pairs deep natural indigo warp with a Bengala-dyed weft (a traditional Japanese iron-oxide). The result is a rusty-red core that peeks through the surface indigo. From a distance it looks almost like rust stains as if you leaned up against something and got rust transferred onto the shirt. It’s a pretty cool effect..Looks almost vintage…

In The Photo: STUDIO D’ARTISAN D5727 12 oz Denim Bengala Dyed Western Shirt, WHITESVILLE Tee, IRON HEART IH-634S-B 21oz Selvedge Denim Straight Cut - Indigo Overdyed Black, ROLE CLUB Horsehide Engineers 1945 Last

With my current denim rotation I don’t get to wear this jacket nearly enough. I think I wore this one a half dozen times in the past 12 months. Still I’ll never sell it. The Pure Blue Japan 6118-OLV Sashiko Type III Jacket in Double Olive is cut from a custom woven 14oz jacquard sashiko fabric that is slowly milled on vintage shuttle looms to create an incredibly dense, three-dimensional texture that mimics traditional Japanese sashiko embroidery. What sets the "Double Olive" apart is the sulfur, olive-dyed yarns that PBJ used for both the warp and the weft. These yarns combined with the low tension weaving gives the heavy sashiko weave a remarkable texture right out of the box.

IN THE PICTURE : PURE BLUE JAPAN 6118-OLV Sashiko Type III Jacket in Double Olive, WHITESVILLE Tee, NICKS Wickett & Craig Black English Bridle Leather Heavy Work Belt, ONI DENIM 277-Bumpy "Kusaki Green Overdye" 17oz Selvedge Denim - Just-Right Straight Fit, WHITES x DIVISION ROAD LTT Lineman 350 Cutter- VIBRAM MINI LUG - Olive Waxed Flesh-55 Last

The Pure Blue Japan 1172-1 "Ecru Beige" 14oz Rinsed Selvedge Denim is a detour from the brand’s traditional deep indigo shades and instead highlights the raw, organic character of unbleached cotton. This pair is cut in the brand's Regular Straight fit, featuring a medium-high rise and a classic straight leg with a very subtle taper. Despite the lack of indigo the fabric retains PBJ’S legendary construction: mirroring the exact structural weaving specifications of their iconic 14oz "XX" denim. It is slowly woven on old-world shuttle looms to yield a highly irregular, signature slubby texture that delivers a comfortable break-in. 

What makes the 1172-1 particularly rare is its yarn and highly limited production. For this run PBJ developed a unique pairing by weaving an undyed, unbleached ecru warp over a light beige, sulfur-dyed weft. This combination gives the denim a subtle, warm depth that quietly sets it apart from typical white or cream-colored jeans. Because PBJ operates at a highly specialized capacity—relying on low-tension, slow-weaving vintage machinery that can only output tiny quantities at a time—these "non-indigo" seasonal runs are produced in very small batches. Once a specific run like the 1172-1 sells out at stockists, it rarely sees a reissue, securing its status as a coveted collector's piece among heritage denim enthusiasts.

In the pic: Vintage 1950’s Long Sleeve Kahanamoku Hawaiian Shirt Brown, FREENOTE CLOTH Ribbed Tank Olive, PURE BLUE JAPAN 1172-1 "Ecru Beige" 14oz Rinsed Selvedge Denim - Regular Straight Fit, VIBERG Brown Pigmented Work Shoe Butt Boondocker Cap Toe Service Boot 2040 Last

OK, well lukewarm response to yesterday‘s FREENOTE post. I don’t know if it’s because you guys don’t go for the full leg cut, or don’t like the whole California western style denim or just prefer the Japanese stuff but I’m trying to mix it up and keep it interesting. If you don’t like the FREENOTE stuff bear with me I’ll be going back to the Japanese gear probably tomorrow or Monday. In the meantime, if you’re not familiar with the FREENOTE Modesto find my post from yesterday. I did a little bio in it. Have a good weekend gents..

In the Picture: IRON HEART IHJ-143-IND 12 OZ. KERSEY WORK JACKET INDIGO/BLACK, WHITESVILLE Tee, NICKS X Wickett & Craig Buck Brown Double Stuffed Heavy Duty Work Belt, FREENOTE CLOTH Modesto 16 oz Indigo / Brown Denim, VIBERG 310 Service Boot in Horween Rowdy Dachshund

If you’ve been following my posts, then you know that most of them have been centered around Japanese denim but historically I tend to favor vintage and “vintage styled” workwear. I’m a fan of the California company Freenote Cloth and I think I was an early adopter of their wide leg “Modesto” design. The Modesto pulls from 1930s–1940s American workwear traditions. A few things that point in that direction:

1. The higher rise and fuller top block are much closer to prewar work pants than modern slim denim.

2.Freenote tends to use period-correct detailing and construction methods throughout their line — heavier fabrics, classic pocket shapes, chain stitching, tucked belt loops, and older-style silhouette.

3. The Modesto cut has more of that practical laborer silhouette you see in 1930s railroad, farm, and industrial clothing.

Although Freenote says they source their denim from Japan and sew it California, The denim quality is not as good as say, At Last Co, Vanishing West, Samurai, Oni or Graph Zero. It’s also not a literal reproduction jean the way some Japanese makers do exact Levi’s 1937 replicas, but it definitely lives in that prewar American workwear vocabulary. I’ve got several pairs of these in different weights and colors. They’re comfortable. They’re not my best denim but they’re still pretty good.

In The Picture: MISTER FREEDOM Wildcat Cacao” Chambray Work Jacket, WONDER LOOPER Double Heavyweight Tee Khaki, FREENOTE CLOTH Modesto 15 oz Kaihara Unsigned Denim, TELLASON X Barnes & Moore Oak Bark Tanned Copper Buckle Belt. VIBERG 310 Distressed Chamois Cap Toed Service Boot

I know some of you have voiced displeasure at the amount of Oni denim I’ve been posting but it’s what I have the most of and it’s probably what I wear the most so please be patient and I’ll try to diversify in future postings. This is my favorite chore coat. It’s made from ONI’s 20 oz superb deep black “Secret Denim”. This denim has been woven on vintage shuttle looms at super low tension, and offers a perfectly imperfect finish. I wear it all the time because It goes with everything and it’s definitely the most comfortable in terms of softness. I got this one last year and while they’re sold out pretty much everywhere, I noticed that “Son Of A Stag” in London has a few so they’re out there if you want one.

In the photo: ONI DENIM 03502ZR-BKBK "SECRET BLACK DENIM" 20 oz Coverall, WHITESVILLE Tee, NICKS Wickett & Craig Black English Bridle Leather Heavy Work Belt, ORSLOW Regular Fit Fatigue Pants - Green, VIBERG N1 Boot Maryam Nero Teacore Vachetta Horsebutt - Ridgeway soles-2040 Last

These are one of my my favorite pairs of denim. The minute I took them out of the FedEx box it was love. They’re similar to the Studio D’Artisan “Bengala” denim pieces where the bottom color bleeds through the surface color in places to give the denim a vintage look. This black and persimmon special edition underlines Pure Blue Japan’s reputation as experts in exceptional slub denim. This pair was woven on vintage looms and the fabric combines a sulphur-dyed black warp with a kakishibu*-dyed amber-brown weft.

In the Photo: Iron Heart 12 oz Indigo Black Overdyed Western Shirt, Whitesville Tee, Pure Blue Japan "Black Persimmon Extra Slub" 15oz Regular Straight, Motor (Moto) Japan Horsehide Engineers Relasted & Overdyed By Unsung House

Man, after a long horrible winter, spring is avoiding me like it owes me money..It’s 56° in New York City this morning. Im heading out to get an everything bagel so I’m breaking out the chore coat. I’ve got a few, but I’m gonna go with the olive ONI today. This 18oz olive denim chore coat was woven at low tension on vintage power looms using olive warp yarns and off-white weft. The fabric carries the texture Oni is known for and they say it pairs well with denim workwear pieces. I’m rocking it with Greasepoint doublefronts so I’ll let you be the judge..

In photo: ONI 03502-OLD18 - 18oz "Olive Denim" Selvedge Chore Coat, WHITESVILLE Tee, NICKS Wickett & Craig Black English Bridle Leather Heavy Work Belt, GREASEPOINT WORKWEAR 14.5 oz Double Indigo Vidalia Mills Selvedge Denim, Custom UNSUNG HOUSE U22-2 Engineers in Maryam Horsebutt Leather, CHROME HEARTS BEAST III Aviators

I’ve never been a big tank top guy. I’ve always just worn T-shirts, but there are five days every summer in New York City where it’s so unbearably humid that you actually need something lighter than a tee. When it’s nasty like that I usually wear a cheap wife beater under a 1940s Hawaiian but these new Ripley tanks from Indi + Ash are surprisingly nice.. They’ve made from woven Kala cotton, a wild organic cotton from India that is grown without any pesticides, fertilizers, or irrigation — growing perfectly fine on just rainwater. I snagged one of these to try them out and I like it so much I just put another order in with S&S for two more in different colors. The price is kinda steep but this is the nicest tank I’ve ever owned so whatever. I’ve dropped more on dumber things…

INDI + ASH Ripley Tank Plum/Iron Kala Cotton, ORSLOW , U.S. Army Fatigue Shirt - Black (J61) RAILCAR FINE GOODS Spikes X125 Taper Leg 15 Oz Super Nep Classic Indigo Selvedge,

ONI DENIM 277-Bumpy “Kusaki Green Overdye” 17oz Selvedge Denim - Just-Right Straight Fit

I just got done watching a short video where the host said that 15 oz denim was the sweet spot was for spring. I disagree. This ONI 17 oz pair are perfect for New York City in mid spring/ early summer. I picked these up from Blue Owl last fall and just broke them out today. They’re pretty sweet.

ONI's 17 oz "Bumpy" denim makes use of ultra-slubby yarns woven in low tension for an incredible texture true to the brand's legendary reputation. The finished garment is overdyed at high temperatures, giving the whole jean a rich color and removing any shrinkage. The denim is cut in a classic five-pocket silhouette with a modernized straight fit, and finished with ONI's custom hardware, branded detailing, and a cowhide leather patch.

• 17 oz low-tension slub selvedge denim fabric
• Custom green overdye process
• The Just-Right Straight fit offers a medium-high rise, roomy top block, and comfortable straight-leg silhouette with just enough room throughout the leg
• Custom engraved buttons and hardware
• Twill pocket bags
• Raised belt loops
• Hidden coin pocket with selvedge detail
• Branded leather patch
• Purple selvedge ID
• 100% cotton

In the Photo: ORSLOW **4 Pocket U.S. Army Fatigue Shirt - Dark Olive Stone, WONDER LOOPER** Recycled Cotton FoxFibre Ringer T-Shirt in Sand, ONI DENIM 277-Bumpy “Kusaki Green Overdye” 17oz Selvedge Denim - Just-Right Straight Fit, White’s x Division Road CRUISER 350 -55 - VIBRAM WEDGE- BLACK CXL

I really love Wonder Looper. Great company. Great products. That said their stuff is pricey so I’m hoping they can navigate this economy. These vintage-inspired Ringer T-Shirts are substantial and crafted using a combination of recycled cotton and FoxFibre® cotton yarn. The body is knit with yarns spun with recycled cotton collected throughout the production process. The collar and sleeve cuffs are trimmed with FoxFibre® cotton, organically grown and naturally colored. Really comfortable and perfect for summer ..

Presented for your consideration, my Oni Denim 20 oz Secret Denim Type Il with side pockets. Probably the hairiest denim I own. Check out the pics..

Since it first dropped back in 2012, ONI's Secret Denim has been one of the brand's most popular go-to styles. The fabric itself was developed by Mr. Masao Oishi, ONI’s founder, and what really sets it apart is the hefty yet surprisingly soft 20oz denim. It's made using three different cotton yarns, which gives it that super textured, fluffy, slubby feel people love.

The warp yarn is rope-dyed in a deep indigo, paired with a beige weft that creates a strong contrast in the fabric.Because the yarn fully absorbs the indigo dye, you get this beautiful range of tones as it fades-and it fades fairly quickly too, so you start seeing real character and wear patterns develop in a short amount of time. Over the years, ONI has actually released three different versions of Secret Denim. The first one became incredibly popular, but unfortunately the mill producing the yarn shut down after a fire and for a long time it seemed like that original texture was gone for good.

Because of that, the versions that followed weren't made with the exact same formula as the original. That finally changed in 2024, when Mr. Oishi tracked down a new yarn supplier who could recreate something very close to the original yarn. With that, Secret Denim made its comeback-bringing back the unique feel and character that made it such a standout in the first place.

Presented for your consideration, my Oni Denim 20 oz Secret Denim Type II with side pockets. Probably the hairiest denim I own. Check out the pics..

Since it first dropped back in 2012, ONI’s Secret Denim has been one of the brand’s most popular go-to styles.The fabric itself was developed by Mr. Masao Oishi, ONI’s founder, and what really sets it apart is the hefty yet surprisingly soft 20oz denim. It’s made using three different cotton yarns, which gives it that super textured, fluffy, slubby feel people love.

The warp yarn is rope-dyed in a deep indigo, paired with a beige weft that creates a strong contrast in the fabric. Because the yarn fully absorbs the indigo dye, you get this beautiful range of tones as it fades—and it fades fairly quickly too, so you start seeing real character and wear patterns develop in a short amount of time. Over the years, ONI has actually released three different versions of Secret Denim. The first one became incredibly popular, but unfortunately the mill producing the yarn shut down after a fire and for a long time, it seemed like that original texture was gone for good.

Because of that, the versions that followed weren’t made with the exact same formula as the original. That finally changed in 2024, when Mr. Oishi tracked down a new yarn supplier who could recreate something very close to the original yarn. With that, Secret Denim made its comeback—bringing back the unique feel and character that made it such a standout in the first place.

I love ONI Denim. Particularly, their chore coats but this jacket is an interesting variation. Its like a cross between a chore coat and a Type II. It’s cropped with curtain pleats and box tacks like a 50’s Type II but with patch pockets like a chore coat. The positioning of the patch pockets aren’t quite as high as a type II but close. It’s a pretty cool hybrid..

ONI Denim 03517-ISHIKAWADAI - 15oz Selvedge Denim Jacket - Old Design, WONDER LOOPER Recycled Cotton Foxfibre®Ringer Tee-Stone, NICKS Wickett & Craig Double Stuffed Buck Brown Heavy Duty Work Belt, SHIP JOHN Guthrie Double Knee Work Pants - 18oz Tan Dry Wax Cotton Twill, JOHN LOFGREN “The Devils Causeway” Shinki Horsebutt Engineer Boots.

I love ONI Denim. Particularly, their chore coats but this jacket is an interesting variation. Its like a cross between a chore coat and a Type II. It’s cropped with curtain pleats and box tacks like a 50’s Type II but with patch pockets like a chore coat. The positioning of the patch pockets aren’t quite as high as a type II but close. It’s a pretty cool hybrid..

ONI Denim 03517-ISHIKAWADAI - 15oz Selvedge Denim Jacket - Old Design, WONDER LOOPER Recycled Cotton Foxfibre®Ringer Tee-Stone, NICKS Wickett & Craig Double Stuffed Buck Brown Heavy Duty Work Belt, SHIP JOHN Guthrie Double Knee Work Pants - 18oz Tan Dry Wax Cotton Twill, JOHN LOFGREN “The Devils Causeway” Shinki Horsebutt Engineer Boots.

If you're like me and you collect, you know that nothing bothers you more than a hole in your collection. I'm a big fan of the Japanese boot brand "Motor". I own four pairs of their boots, but this brown pair that I've featured in these pics had been eluding me for years until today.. I first became aware of the model 1011 after reading Jake's review in Almost Vintage Style back in 2022. They're hand dyed, vegetable tanned, triple stitched, Goodyear welted with a gusseted tongue and lined throughout for $650. Unfortunately for me they sold out quickly and were discontinued shortly thereafter so the hunt was on. It took me four years to get my hands on this dead stock pair but upon examining the impeccable finishing details I can say as always, they're well worth the wait.

The Japanese boot maker commonly referred to as Moto or Motor traces its roots to the Tokyo-based leather brand founded in 1971 by Hideo Motoike under the name Leather Arts & Crafts Moto. (1) Over time, the company evolved into a family-driven operation, with Motoike's sons expanding the vision into multiple lines, including Moto Leather & Silver and their more rugged, heritage-oriented "Motostyle". Within that ecosystem, "Motor" is often used as a label for their boot line, particularly those inspired by vintage American workwear. Their engineer boots reflect a distinctly Japanese approach to Americana -taking the original 1930s-1950s American engineer boot (itself born from railroad and industrial workwear) and refining it through obsessive craftsmanship, premium leathers like horsebutt or Italian bullhide, and a strong emphasis on patina and aging. (2)

What makes Moto/Motor especially interesting is how they reinterpret heritage rather than simply reproduce it. Japanese makers like Moto are part of a broader movement that studies vintage American garments and rebuilds them with higher levels of finish, material experimentation, and artisanal construction. Their engineer boots often feel slightly sleeker or more "dress-oriented" than classic American versions, while still maintaining hallmark features-high shafts, buckle straps, and laceless pull-on design. (3) Enthusiasts often view Moto as a "best value" entry into high-end Japanese bootmaking, offering hand-finished character and unique leathers at a much lower price point than elite makers like Clinch or Role Club. (4) In that sense, Moto/Motor sits at a compelling intersection: a Japanese reinterpretation of American industrial heritage, filtered through boutique craftsmanship and a strong aesthetic focus on aging, individuality, and leather character.

MOTOR, ROLE CLUB & JOHN LOFGREN ENGINEERS A COMPARISON

Moto vs. Role Club vs. John Lofgren starts with their approach to the last, which really defines everything. Moto tends to use sleeker, slightly more anatomical lasts-narrower waist, softer toe spring, and a refined profile that feels almost dress-adjacent despite being a work boot. Role Club by Brian the Bootmaker leans heavily into true vintage proportions, often echoing 1940s American engineer boots with a flatter toe box, more substantial instep, and a slightly "work-rough" silhouette that prioritizes authenticity over polish. John Lofgren sits right in the middle: his lasts are structured and consistent, with a slightly bulbous toe that nods to vintage American boots but is subtly cleaned up for modern wear. In terms of fit philosophy, Moto feels artisanal and organic, Role Club feels archival, and Lofgren feels engineered and repeatable.

When it comes to leather and finishing, the differences get even more pronounced. Moto is arguably the most artistic-hand-dyed uppers, intentional color variation, and a patina-first mindset that makes each pair feel one-of-one. Brian at Role Club focuses on period-correct materials-often horsehide or heavy steer-with finishes that mimic how boots would have looked when new in the 1940s, letting the wearer create the patina over time. John Lofgren, by contrast, sources some of the best leathers in the world (including Shinki horsehide) but applies a more uniform, production-consistent finish; the quality is extremely high, but less idiosyncratic than Moto.

Finally, construction and overall philosophy: Moto is small workshop, almost anti-scale, with a "for those who know" mentality and limited distribution in Japan; Role Club is similarly small but more historically obsessive, almost like a one-man archive brought to life; Lofgren is the most structured brand of the three, with repeatable models, global distribution, and a reputation for near-flawless build quality. In short-Moto is artistry, Role Club is history, and Lofgren is precision.

Footnotes:

1 The World Of Shoes

2 The Patina Project

3 Wikipedia

4 Stridewise