u/Forged_Trunnion_

I have a hobby of building stuff. AKs, lots of them. Parts kits are so cool to me but I've also done a few virgin kits and they're nice too. Romanians, Yugos, RPKs, M70s, you name it. If you can buy it I've done it, pretty much lol. ARs and Glocks to a lesser extent. Just a hobby. Thinking about getting an 01/07 so I can build custom stuff for people. Just thinking of an on the side type thing like a lot of these guys do in their homes, garages etc. Let my hobby make some money lol.

Do you think it's worth it is it already too saturated?

Am I correct to assume that, if someone had at one point bought and stowed away one of those silly solvent trap things that it could now be used without doing a form 1? After midnight, of course.

Other than 922r, can't I use the 2 part sear, since it doesn't have the extra pin anyway and can't be FA? Or am I misunderstanding how the trigger engagement works.

Sienna 2017, I replaced the vapor purge value as I've read so many times on here, with an OEM (Wells Toyota branded.)

I filled up with gas just now and it took 4 times to start. On the 4th it started but the RPMs got lower and lower and it stalled. On the 5th I give it some gas to keep the RPMs over 1,000 for a few seconds and then it stabilizes. Same pattern every time.

I'm getting a code 174 and 171, as well as 113 and 103. I replaced the MAF sensor with a brand new one, also wells, and still getting those codes.

Another one here said that those codes could be excess air coming in from defects in the air hose from the air filter box to the throttle body. Okay, would that also cause the starting after fill-up issue?

What else might be a cause of the starting problem?

I never pump extra gas or "top off," and this issue has happened even when I only put in a few gallons not even making it full.

Thanks!

2017 Sienna XLE.

I have a 600 mile road trip ahead of me back home tomorrow. CEL came on, I went to AutoZone and the guy said the codes mean it's an MAF problem (lean on some cylinders I think but I don't remember the codes). They sold me a new sensor but it didn't fit, they didn't have the right one in stock. Tried MAF cleaner on the old one and, the CEL is still on after driving around for 20 minutes.

Is it fine to drive home with the faulty sensor plugged in, should I unplug it, or should I try every auto parts store on the way home and see who has mine in stock?

What happens if I unplug it and leave it unplugged?

The trunnion has a pilot notch for the barrel pin. The kit comes with the standard ~7mm barrel pin, which is a bit of an odd size. I actually have the 7mm ream for it but it's been used a number of times, and I'm curious to look Into a slightly different and more standard US size since there is no hole yet in the trunnion.

I'm thinking of a standard 0.25" 4140 dowel pin, and a .2495 reamer (undersized 1/4" reamer). The pin is really just there to keep the headspace, so...am I missing something, why a ~6.35mm pin wouldn't work as well as a 7mm?

Typically for a kit that is demilled, I cut the barrel with a 1/4" end mill and then ream it to 7mm. Just looking at maybe doing something different. Any thoughts?

Does anyone know the specs for this? Caliper on the OG pin is 6.24mm, which I thought I had checked but must have misremembered. It's a virgin receiver so, only a detent and I thought it was essentially the same size as an AK so I did my standard 1/4" endmill and 7mm reamer, for a 7.002mm or whatever pin. When I put in the pin to press, of course it fell right through. Doh!

I've ordered a yugo long pin in 7.002mm, but I'm worried that it may be too big of a hole and cause the chamber to be unsafe.

Does anyone know? Realistically, it's gonna be like..an extra~ 0.35mm depth into the barrel compared to the original. I know for AKs you can oversize the pin by like 0.5mm and actually even a bit more, and be fine, so I assume it's dandy. But was wondering if anyone here knew.

I've been doing a lot of taric mid lately. The build is like a top/support hybrid; but I go precision runes, sheen item, spirit visage, frozen heart, diadem. Diadem has really added a crazy amount of healing on some games. You will lose lane, or at best stall it out, against any APC, unless your jg is on point.

But that's okay, because later your team fights are OP. After 6, I roam to the other lanes to help gank. Taric is actually a pretty good ganker I've discovered. The ability to project your stun before you even get there is huge.

Just my 2 cents. Like all things taric, there are hard counters that will run your game but most of the time its fun and it works.

Just an FYI. The new production zastava M77 mags do not fit a kit build and you need surplus M77 mags. $100 lost on two mags, gonna try and off load them somewhere but just FYI so someone can learn from my mistake, haha.

I usually use Seymour MRO at work but it's not really a gun paint. It's a typical alkyd oil based paint. Are two part gun paints really worth the $$? Painting my AK receiver.

I have a bunch of the old jigs from the original P80 frames. Are these reusable or so I just toss them? Like can I get a 76 and use the old jigs for the holes or no?

It's not really about getting the PMFs serialized, it's about taking them away and never letting them come back again.

The law bans possession after a certain date unless serialized by a particular process which ties you to an FFL and to the PMF.

The law also includes a clause preventing the sale or transfer of a firearm if you know that it was not made by a federally licensed manufacturer (independent of its status as an assault weapon or not)

Which means of course, if you ever did sell it or dispose of it (which would be 100% legal, federally, now that it's serialized), well in so doing you're obviously violating the law, as you of course would know that you're the one who made it.

Basically, it's a compliance trap: forced to pay someone to serialize, and then forced to keep it forever. The only legal option to dispose of them or what happens after you die - is for them to be destroyed.

I think I honestly can't see it sustaining a challenge in the courts, except the 4th of course., if only the SC would get off it's 2A ass and pick up a case more than once a decade.

So, I've gotten some different answers.

Commonwealth arms guy told me I needed to Form 1 all of my lowers, and then get them engraved with his info in order to comply. Why I need a form 1...it doesn't apply as I'm not doing NFA so, idk, he's wrong on that part anyway.

Freedom forge, who is manufacturer, told me all I needed was a serial number engraved to spec, it doesn't go into his books, and I don't need the other info like cal, name, model etc.

Custom engraving and signs said he doesn't know he'll just engrave whatever I tell him.

From my reading of the law, there is a bit about an FFL taking possession of a PMF and being required to serialize an abbreviated FFL license number and etc. That requirement isn't in the definition of "Valid serial number" earlier in the bill and seems to only apply if it's transferred to an FFL.

So anyway, if #2 guy is right then what's stopping me from just engraving it myself, as long as it's to ATF spec of .003"?

Is that what the consensus take is on HB40?

I'm considering buying a dot peen engraving machine, it's way cheaper than a laser and I have enough to do that it's more economical than to send off to get engraved for the $40 to $80 quotes I've gotten. And it'll look better than my hand engraving tool which, I've used and it does get deep enough but it looks...handmade lol. And I want it to at least look like it's official so as to not invite questions, etc. Not that people are inspecting your stuff but you know just peace of mind mostly.

Previously used the gen2 which I still have. It's taken a bit of a beating due to a friend using it wrong, still works great though.

I bought a ton of mill bits but honestly I only changed it once every 5 five lowers and only because it felt right, not because it was cutting bad. It was consistently 20 minutes of milling, and another 20-25 for the other drilling steps and the setup, clean up and keep for the next lower, etc. Its really not bad at all.

The gen 3 still looks nearly brand new. I bet it could do 100 more no problem.

For all of you on the fence it's a good investment over the older generation, but a used older gen will still do you just fine.

The only gripe for me on the gen 3 it is harder to get the final step 2 depth exactly lined up due to just how the plate interfaces with the jig. Idk, it felt like it was easier. On some of them I think I'm a little deep. Visually it looks identical to a factory lower which I've used to compare measurements.

Interestingly, one of the 308 lowers the bottom is significantly thicker even though the dit depth was correct for the step 2 final. I think it's just slightly out of spec or thicker than it's supposed to be. Also, some of the AR lowers had a pocket for the upper already cut but I still had to do step 1 because the pocket was too small. Other ones, it was fine. One of the lowers could not accept the threads for the buffer tube locking mechanism, also out of spec I guess.

Finally, my router had loosened up and was actually increasing in depth at one point on its own, leading to one lower that I had to cut into several pieces because it was no longer viable.

This is a fun hobby and that's all I basically wanted to say, and I've seen the whole weekend basically working on flowers, lol. I did a mix of anodized, raw, milled AR-15, 10, and 9mm/Glock lowers. All worked excellent in the gen3.

Next step is taking these to the engraver because my state just turned gay.

The branding on this mower has changed - mine is the dark gray but it looks like the exact same is still available it just has a new paint job.

Wanted to give a short review here. I bought this mower knowing it would be similar to the TimeMaster, in that it would require more maintenance than the standard mower due to the dual blade assembly, and the additional belts, etc.

At the time I couldn't see forking out the extra $500 or so for the TimeMaster so I got this. Even with the extended 5 year total warranty, it was cheaper than the Toro.

In the first year, I broke the plastic where the handles and levers all sit. It was my fault I'm pretty sure, I was too quick on pulling the lever before disengage the lock. The lock is just a piece of plastic and it broke when I closed the lever to release the blade brake.They replaced it for free. The battery was also dead and they sent a new one.

Also, in the first year the rear wheel got loose and it destroyed the bearing. Got a new wheel for free.

Finally, in the first year I hit a rock and it chipped an edge on the aluminum deck. The guy said these decks are tough and it must have been a defect for it to crack like that. Got a new deck for free. Still have it on the shelf as the old deck works fine still.

I also replaced one of the belts which had torn. I decided to run the machine without the belt cover because debris would get up in there and tear up the belts. Replaced two belts because of that and afterwards, I haven't had to replace any of them at all.

Year two I didn't do anything other than run the machine and change the oil. Oil changes are recommended at the start of season and every 10 hours (about every other month for me). I've also changed the filter every season. I left gas in it over winter this last season but I'd run it for a few minutes here and there (along with my genny), and put some preservative in the tank. Seems to have taken it just fine.

Year three the transmission engagement lug (little thin bit at the end of the cable that pulls the release on the hydro) snapped. I was able to fix it with an electrical box wire retention clamp of all things, but they sent a new cable, which I haven't had to install yet. Also sent me a new rear wheel (other wheel) because I noticed some of the plastic turning white on the inside from stress? Near the gears. Also the height adjustment handle broke somehow, got a new one and it was a pain to replace but it was covered as well.

I've sharpened the blades once and also bought new blades once though I haven't used them yet. Changed all the belts once as a preventative as after 3 years I figured it wouldn't hurt.

Has it been worth it? It produces a nice cut, that's for sure, and it's fast, doesn't bog down when I go on vacation and come back for a 2 week cut. I've only stalled it once and it was a patch of wet hay that I was running over to mulch up, excess from the garden.

Plenty of TimeMaster stories on all the above similar things breaking, belts snapping, etc so I don't think I'm any worse off. Just wanted to share my experience for those on the fence of the Toro vs the DR for the 30" consumer mower space. I've been happy with it.

The cost, as many of us in the USA know, of monthly premiums for insurance is ridiculous. It just feels like a vacuum year after year. We don't see very many traditional doctors offices, pediatricians etc - they're never covered, since we see naturopathic doctors or doctors of that sphere etc. Even our midwifery services have never been covered.

So, I've always done the HSA option and load up the HSA because we end up using it mostly.

But, it seems crazy to me to be paying for 1) the privilege of having an HSA, and then essentially a what-if...

What if I have an accident and need surgery at the hospital, what if one of us gets cancer, etc type of thing.

Idk, it seems to me like what I really need is something like a fixed benefit insurance, critical illness etc and then honestly just bank the rest in a HYSA. Yeah it's not as good as an HSA but if I can dump an extra $600 a month into a savings comparatively by not having an additional premium...it makes sense?

Idk, is this a dumb idea or what?

Who else is here paying $10k+ in premiums just for it to not be worth a damn anyway, and have to dump another $7-8k into an HSA to cover out of pocket costs. In reality it's $18k/year, with most of that being lost to the vacuum of the insurance industry.

If I can put $18k/yr into a separate savings account used just for health care, and have critical illness (50k benefit, etc) plus the fixed benefit insurance ($$ per event, $$ per day for hospital stays, etc etc), and just be essentially an all-cash health care scheme.

Most places give you a discount for using cash anyway, so idk I don't see a downside. Other than if like, tomorrow I get hit by a truck, etc.

Is this a bad idea? Signing up for benefits right now as I got a new job and looking at these prices like BRO....

Just something I've thought of. I have a few BP pistols, they're fun but worth the centerfire conversion cylinder it seems like that would make it subject to the new serialization law.

In fact I guess that makes it somewhat defacto illegal to install a conversion cylinder unless your BP pistol was already serialized? Because the conversion cylinder turned it from a BP antique to a modern center fire pistol.

Am I thinking about that correctly?