2nd code I've seen now. First one didn't throw a light but came up on the obdeleven scanner then went away. Anything I can look at in the app to determine if the injector is failing? Haven't had any rough idles or misfires. Fuel economy seems unchanged. Sitting at 100k miles. Never done a walnut blasting so maybe it's time for that? Timing stretch was fine a couple weeks ago at -1.5.
Probably 2 weeks ago, wife wanted to play Pokemon solar eclipse. Slapped it into steam as a non steam game, plugged in a PS5 controller, setup the custom control scheme and off she went.
Now the last 2 nights I can't get the controller to work. If I plug in the controller with a USB windows won't recognize. Installed ds4windows and it sees the controller now, but steam won't recognize it at all.
If I connect to Bluetooth steam will see it but half the buttons don't work. I can use the arrow keys, but not the buttons or triggers. Rebinding doesn't help. The controller works fine on the PS5. And we just used all 4 last weekend on my PC to play a GameCube emulator.
Beyond confused on where to even start besides reinstalling steam.
Trying to put together a cheap AM4 build for a clone hero/emulator build. Asus prime x370 pro motherboard. 1050ti, 16gb ddr4 ram (3200). Can't get this thing to post at all.
First CPU I got was a 2600 with a bent pin. Straightened and wouldn't post. Swapped in a 5600g processor from another PC and it posted fine. So assumed the CPU was bad.
Ordered a 2600x and got a 2600 with missing pins. Returned that as well.
Local repair shop had a 1700x they believed to be good. Just tried to install that and get no display again. Keyboard and mouse don't light up either.
Is it possible this board got updated and removed support for the 1000/2000 am4 processors? Do I need a 3000 or newer? I'm beyond lost on where to look. It has to be a cpu issue since everything worked fine ( to bios at least) with a test 5600g CPU (used onboard and an older gtx 460.. also tried that GPU instead of the 1050ti on the latest build with 0 luck)
Bought this for my 4 year old as a birthday present. Wasn't working. $20.
The old motor would click, but would only run if you spun it by hand. That was with an adjustable power supply. So ordered a new motor and a converter kit for DeWalt batteries (with the 18v to 12v step down). Same problem on the motor. Lights come on fight, but the motor will only run if I push the car slightly. Then it will go all day unless you stop again. Really not sure where to look next.
I also don't have reverse. The wiring all seemed fine but I ordered a new selector switch to see if that fixes it.
Leading guess I've gotten is that the hood was repainted in the past. I have spider webs all over the hood, but every other panel is fine. The hood is also lighter than the rest of the car. Regardless the chip is down to the steel and I don't want it to rust
Anything I need to ask the shop specifically? Was told it needed to be a base coat and clear coat? The other 2 shops I went to were both at $1000. This is with me removing the hood and bringing it to them. Im not super concerned with it blending perfectly (already doesn't), just don't want the hood to rust and the current chip is getting bigger daily.
Pins are opposite the locator triangle thing. Interwebs says both are VSS? Do I even bother trying it? Paid 40 on eBay. Don't want it to fry my motherboard.
This is the 2nd attempt to get a cheap AM4 processor for a clone hero PC. First one came with a bent pin and wouldn't boot after straightening it. Confirmed the rest of my PC is good with a 5600g processor.
Also the label does not list it as a 2600 X. That's really not a huge deal but still frustrating.
What is the average offset mean for the vocals? We didn't really notice any delay but the 5000ms seems high? Trying to work out any kinks before a party we are throwing Friday. Using a mcbazel wireless microphone.