u/Individual-Cookie-50

Hi all,

Years ago, I bought my son a PS4 pro. Now it turned into a fighter jet and he bought himself a PS5. As I read, dried thermal paste can cause this jet behaviour. I'm able to replace the thermal paste myself, but would like to delete all accounts from the PS, so I can start using it as were it new after I fix it's heat-issue.

When I want to quick initialise, I get the message that the PS can't be deactivated for 2 users (both my son's users). I should sign in to PS Network with these accounts and try again. Unfortunately, I don't have the login credentials.

One step further, I see: There are users for whom this PS4 cannot be deactivated as their primary PS4. If you start restoring, they will not be able to deactivate this PS4. Are you sure you want to continue?
After you select [Yes], the PS4 will automatically restart and initialisation will start.

I could do a full initialise, which should take several hours, but I don't know if I can then setup the device with my own login credentials.

I hope somebody understands my problem description and can help.

Hi all,

Yesterday I installed my fresh robot mower (Gardena Smart Sileno City). Before installing, I cut the lawn pretty short, but I'm searching for the right cutting height to be healthy for the grass. At the moment, due to the drought the grass has quite some dry spots. I understood that the grass likes it better to be cut more, but only small bits every time, but still has to get used to it.

Of course I'll also water and fertilize the lawn.

Hi all,

Yesterday I installed my fresh robot mower (Gardena Smart Sileno City). Before installing, I cut the lawn pretty short, but I'm searching for the right cutting height to be healthy for the grass. At the moment, due to the drought the grass has quite some dry spots. I understood that the grass likes it better to be cut more, but only small bits every time, but still has to get used to it.

Of course I'll also water and fertilize the lawn.

Hey all,

I bought a Gardena Sileno City without the Smart option. Would it be possible to upgrade this mover so I can use it Smart? If it would only be as much as changing out one of the controller boards, that would be an easy one.

Thanks

Hi all,

I have a few cars in my family that are moved around quite some. With that, also little stone chips and scratches of use (experience) appear. Especially the stone chips are hard to repair, as the paint is hard to apply gradually. I saw some people repair little paint defects with an airbrush and diluted car paint. What makes it interesting is, that the amount of paint is very low and quite easy to regulate, especially compared to a rattle-can spray-job.

I have a compressor with oil separator and pressure regulator. My main question is about the spray gun itself. What to look for? What is important?

Maybe I'm not explicit enough, then just please ask further. There's so much stuff in the market, that it's hard for a total noob to decide.

Thanks in advance.

Beste mede-klussers,

Sinds ik ben overgestapt naar een hybride warmtepomp met vloerverwarming op de begane grond heb ik een uitdaging met de verwarming boven. Toen ik op de begane grond de vloerverwarming heb (laten) infrezen, heb ik de wandradiatoren (1x 240cm type 22 en 1x 360cm type 22) afgekoppeld door de T-stukken op de bovenverdieping te vervangen door bochten. Enerzijds is de hoeveelheid warmte die de radiatoren boven afgeven beperkt, anderzijds heb ik erg veel leidingruis, die vooral in de nacht storend hoorbaar is.

Ik vermoed nu, dat ik de warmteafgifte zou kunnen verbeteren met LTV-radiatoren, maar dan ben ik bang, dat ik door een kleiner watervolume en gelijkblijvend circulatievolume nog meer last van ruis krijg. Ik heb hierover contact gehad met Remeha (vanwege de Remeha Elga Ace hybride warmtepomp) en die adviseerden mij om een buffervat te plaatsen. De hybride warmtepomp zou dan het buffervat moeten verwarmen, waarbij een extra circulatiepomp dan het circuit zou moeten doorstromen. De verdeler van de vloerverwarming zou ik dan het beste kunnen ombouwen van een mengverdeler naar een direct aangesloten verdeler.

Aangezien dit nogal een grote wijziging in het systeem is, wil ik hier toch graag eerst even van gedachten over wisselen.

Mijn doel is eigenlijk om uiteindelijk helemaal van het gas af te kunnen.

Hi all,

To explain the situation I'll describe my present installation first, then my future plans.

Now: 18 panels (350W) on an SMA Sunny Boy 5.0 with grid connection. The specs of the panels: 40,4V open voltage, 11,16A short circuit current, 34,4V full power, 10,18A full power.

Future: 27 panels (350W) on a 3 phase Victron system with 48V battery with 20,48kWh capacity. Looks like I have to split each phase into a 3x3 grid of panels to prevent overcurrent or overvoltage on the MPPT and feed the house through 3x Multiplus II 3000kVA from the battery with the option to go connect to grid when needed? The PV-panels are still available, so to keep balance in the system I'd like to keep the same PV-output per panel.

Maybe I'm not clear, but please ask if things need more explanation. Thanks for thinking along.

Hey all,

Next to a lot of backpack advice posts I feel I can't find what I'm looking for. Let me first paint the situation:

My girlfriend an I like to go on walking tours of roughly 10-20km's now, possibly longer in future after building some stamina. Our main target area are the Dolomites right now, where we follow trails and stay the night in a fixed place, means we don't have to carry around sleeping gear. My girlfriend is walking with a camelback for things like a windstopper and/or rain jacket and a water bladder (2L). Somehow I always manage to pack more than we need: (a vest in case it gets cold, a windstopper to stay warm when we take a break, some food, a small first aid kit, an insect kit, some small microfiber towels, the same 2L water bladder, a pocket knife and a small flashlight. On top of that I like to take my M4/3 camera with a few lenses (all small and light).

I'm searching for a backpack that has:
- water bladder space
- space for the stuff I take
- well-padded straps
- wide waist belt, preferably with a small pocket for the pocket knife.
- adjustable to get a good fit (carry the weight on my hips)
- front loading
- built in rain cover

I bought a Decathlon Simond MT100 50L backpack, but that's too big. I tend to sweat a lot, so I need good ventilation on my back. First I thought, I needed a system with a net on my back, but I noticed, that the backpack is much further from my back, which makes me lean forward too much, so I'm looking for a well ventilating backpack without this net in my back, which also makes packing harder than needed.

I also have a 24L backpack with a ventilation (net) system that I bought cheap a few years ago, but that's a toploader and can't hold, what I want to take.

The Simond was €70 and I'll return to Decathlon I'm willing to go to max €150 for a backpack that suits my needs.

For the future we'll start hiking with a campervan as a "base-station".

Any suggestions?

Hi all,

I use an Apple Watch most of the year, but I bought an Instinct 2X Solar for holiday use. I'm searching for a watchface that shows:

• time (large and 24h)
• battery status (preferably in the top right circle)
• steps
• heart rate (eventually)

The watchface I use now is Simply Large and I have no clue how to change it the way I prefer.

Hi all,

In June I'm going hiking in the Dolomites and have a bit of a struggle what to take. The options:

1. Take my E-PL9 with a 14/2.5, 25/1.8, 45/1.8 and add the 35-100 for the distant shots. (822 gr)
2. Replace the 35-100 in above lineup by my E-M5 mkII with the 14-150. (1437gr)
3. Choose 1, but replace the E-PL9 by the E-M5 mkII. (911gr)
4. Take only the E-M5 mkII and the 14-150 (tot 750gr)

Option 4 seems the best weight-wise, but size-wise it's the most bulky wo walk aroung with when the rest is stowed away in the backpack (for which I replied to another topic).

O E-PL9 = 380gr
O E-M5 mkII = 469gr
P 14/2.5 = 55gr
O 25/1.8 = 136gr
O 45/1.8 = 116gr
P 35-100 = 135gr
O 14-150 = 280gr

I want to get the max from the pictures, which maybe makes the most important question: Is there a large difference in quality between the E-M5 mkII and the E-PL9 and between the 35-100 and the 14-150?