I am planning to change the computer I am running Klipper on for my Ender 3. It happens that the new one came with an 8-in non-touch display (over VGA output). Can I use it as an information display, somewhat prettier than the standard E3 one? It seems that KlipperScreen is focused rather on touch control than pure information, are there other options?
For my first playthough I have decided to go in blind and 'play the way I want it', which resulted in focusing much more on combat than on economy. It was a relatively pleasant experience and blowing up Xenon stations brings enough small change for a destroyer or two, but after 150 hours I begin to feel that some more progression would be nice. Hence the question: does the attrition alone weaken Xenon? I.e. if I blow up hundreds of their fighters, a bunch of destroyers and an occasional station, does that somewhat hinder their war effort? Or do I still need to build an empire to have some decisive victories?
I want to use VLC on my phone as a in-car media player. As not to be distracted, I want to control the player externally, with ESP32 sending relevant commands over HTTP. However, the issue I have is that in tests I cannot get it to work even from a browser: I have configured remote control on the phone and I can bring up the main RC interface in my browser, but none of the specific HTTP-GET commands work (even though the exact same commands work correctly on my computer).
Is the Android version limited in that functionality?
I would like to use an old Android phone (Moto E40) as my in-car music player and occasionally as a navigation device. I plan to use VLC for Android as a player (other suggestions are welcome). However, what bugs me is powering the phone - leaving it on when the car battery connection (i.e. the lighter socket) is off would kill the phone battery quickly (from experience I know that some phones with completely killed battery might not work even with power connected), turning it off and on manually is not particularly convenient...
Is there an app/setting that would let me have the phone turn on when it gets the power from the car battery and turn off if the car battery power is off for more than, say, a minute (it cannot power off immediately, as the connection is cycled e.g. during ignition, besides very short stops should be ignored as well)?
For those wanting to print TPU on their T-shirts: I have found My invaluable wife has suggested to me a much better solution than printing directly on the fabric. Most likely it is already known, but I have not seen it anywhere....
Use a water soluble embroidery stabilizer/paper! It is very cheap, so even if you waste a sheet or two it is not a problem, it is quite absorbent, so printed TPU sticks to it quite well, it is much thinner but stiffer so it does not misbehave, you can just cut the exact size that you can clip to your 3d printer bed... and afterwards it disappears without a trace when moistened. But of course, it is best to try it out first on a fabric you do not care too much for...
If your water soluble stabilizer is wrinkled, it is best to iron it out at VERY LOW temperature, so it is perfectly flat.
Cut a sheet piece in a size that you can easily attach it to your printer bed: you can use clips at the edges or painters tape (but then it will be thicker there, not good if it is the place where your probe tests the height).
Print on it a mirrored image with TPU - I have used two 0.2 mm layers with very good results.
Wait for the print to cool down, put it where you want it with the printed side to the T-shirt, attach the sheet at the edges with pins.
Turn the T-shirt inside out. If your ironing board has permanent soft cover, put a wooden board inside under the printed sheet (you want a flat, hard surface underneath).
Set the iron to the highest temperature. Now, with the reverse (inside) side of fabric on top and the TPU underneath (DO NOT iron the TPU directly!) gently slide the iron over the whole print for quite a few minutes. It takes time for the plastic to bond with the fabric. DO NOT press too hard, or the print will squish too much and will get deformed and ugly.
Turn the T-shirt again to the right side and wash away the stabilizer with a moist sponge.
Check whether the print has bound well with the fabric - some places, especially sharp corners etc. might not adhere well, it takes some practice to get it right.
Optional: the surface should be OK - it is the first layer of the 3d print, so should be flat and smooth, but if there are printing marks, you might gently smooth them out by ironing the top of the print under a baking sheet (again, DO NOT iron the TPU directly).
(Yes, the T-shirt on the photo is still wet, I was too excited with how good it worked to wait for it to dry... Also, there are some imperfections I could get rid of before the transfer).
I need to run a Debian computer with GUI and a fullscreen application, but without connected mouse and keyboard. The issue is that when the computer starts, the lower icon bar is visible and the desktop window is smaller - when I remotely run the fullscreen app, it still fits in that smaller window, with the icon bar visible. How can I start with the desktop maximized?
I am using one ESP32-C3 with WLED for sACN control and it is working very well... However, I need another setup that would allow me to switch a relay with sACN. I know I could meddle with WLED sources, but I am much more familiar with the Arduino IDE, so it would require quite a bit of learning... Is there anything out there that would be near-ready solution, like WLED is?
One can see almost daily the recurring theme: non-libertarians are saying that libertarian choices are random, libertarians vehemently deny it. I would not say either side is necessarily wrong, I believe it rather comes to diferent (and vague) definitions of 'random'.
That is why I would rather posit that LFW choices are ultimately whimsical, and I will explain why.
Note: I exclude here the minority views that the principle of alternate possibilities ('the ability to do otherwise') is not a necessary condition for LFW (mostly narrow-sourcehood libertarianism).
Suppose someone makes a LFW decision about something. For example, a judge determines whether a defendant is guilty or not. LFW proponents maintain that LFW choices may be made 'for reasons' - therefore can be rational - they only insist they must be libertarianly free.
Let us say that all the reasons for the innocence of the defendant comprise the set of reasons A. All the reasons for the guilt comprise the set of reasons B. Then, on libertarianism there are two viable possibilites: one possibility is the judge declares that the defendant innocent and the other that he decides that the defendant is guilty. A libertarian might then say: in the first case the judge would make the choice for reasons A and in the other case he would make the choice for reasons B. Thus he would make a libertarian choice and do it for reasons.
Case closed?
But suppose that we ask the judge afterwards why he picked the set of reasons A over the set of reasons B (or otherwise, depending what he chose). I see two options here:
- He cannot state why: that makes his choice whimsical - he decided one way, but might as well decide the other - nothing explains this particular choice (I know this is unrealistic, just wanted to get that out of the way)
- He does state a reason: for example, he says that the reasons in the set A were more compelling, testimonies in the set B dubious, etc. In other words, he states that there is a reason (or a set of reasons) O for which the set A overrides the set B, if he chose A (innocence).
Now, again, I see two options:
- the reason O is not objectively true. That just means that the judge made up his rationalization on the spot, it does not map to any actuality in the case. In other words, he still made his decision on a whim*.*
- The reason O is objectively true, that is, the reasons A are actually stronger than reasons B. But on PAP libertarianism, even if the judge is mentally competent, rational and has reasonably sufficient information, he still might do otherwise. This leaves us with two possibilities:
The judge sees that reason O is true (really overriding reasons A over reasons B) and decides that the defendant is innocent
The judge declares the defendant is guilty in spite of the reason O.
But why would judge made his decision contrary to the reason O? Whatever reasons he or we might give (he saw the the evidence but did not understand it, he personally liked some witnesses better etc.), they would be true before the choice is made, so they would make the first case ('the judge sees that reason O is true') impossible. Thus we must conclude that if it is possible that the judge ignores the truth of O, he does so for no overriding reason, on a whim. Well, he might do it also in a sudden impulse of irrationality, but then if the option 2. is viable that way, that leaves us with the LFW, but it reduces it to the claim 'people have free will, because they can exhibit occasional unexplainable lapses of judgement'. It might be actually true (everyone knows that guy!), but I am not sure this is what LFW proponents are going for. In particular, it does nothing to support the claim that LFW is required for rationality.
LFW proponents might object that it is the exact process of 'seeing whether O is true' which is free-willed. This objection has two problems, though: it ultimately ties LFW with doxastic voluntarism, that needs support on its own, which might be hard without begging the question. What is worse, all it does is it just kicks the can down the road: we then just ask why the reason(s) O is/are overriding. We just repeat the same reasoning and either end up at a place where it is the reasons that decide the outcome, a different choice is made on a whim or we repeat the process ad inifinitum.
I got quite old Saitek Pro rudder pedals and the potentiometer is quite unreliable. I know I can try to 'refresh', but if I am to take everything apart, I would rather put a new one. Does anyone know the specs of that pot? In particular, whether it is linear or logarythmic?
Alternately, I might want to replace it with a hall sensor with a programmable analog output, but I am not sure it is possible...
In two guild 'war' missions I have started 'high-yield resources' submissions and cannot complete them. I cannot abort just them, it seems I have to abort the whole mission. Is it possible to restart them somehow later?
Transparent PETG, 3 mm thick, with a bit of sanding with 10k grit and a coat of clear nail polish. I would say it is sufficient for dials, lamps, etc.
In about two years I have went through about four or five buttons in my G603... As I have been generally more and more disappointed with Logitech products lately, I would attribute it to that trend, but it is more complicated than that. The weird thing is that I have mostly reused buttons from other mice, so they were from different manufacturers and models. Moreover, the buttons that Logitech uses in that model are pretty standard OMRONs present in many models, so it should not make much difference.
I have considered that maybe it is a me problem and maybe I push them unusually hard or something, but I have used previous mice literally for ages without such problems. This left me puzzled... Is something about the G603 design that might exacerbate such problems? If so, can I somehow mitigate it?
I want to connect my Bluetooth mouse, so I need to do this without a mouse. I can get up to this window, but I cannot select the actual mouse entry - with arrow keys I can get only to 'on/off' and 'Downloads'? Is there a shortcut I am missing?
I have bought second hand Oracle Micros Workstation 6, as I needed a touch terminal. I am now running Linux on it and it works fine. However, I could not help but notice that it has a rear end text display. I have taken it apart and it looks as proprietary as it goes i.e. the LCD itself is pretty standard, but its board has Oracle Micros all over it. It also has non-standard plug.
I know it is a very long shot, as the unit was supposed to work only in Windows and most likely than not the rear display would run only with proprietary Windows drivers, but maybe, just maybe, there is a chance to access it somehow from Linux? Just a pointer in a general direction would be great...
I have run dmesg, but nothing interesting shows up. I have no idea whether it is USB, serial or anything else - the unit has a ton of various USB and serial connections for accessories, which does not help either.
