Bought my Insight 2 years ago. I have averaged 61.8 mpg (3.8l/100km) over the 2 years of daily driving year round in West Michigan. I have put 70,000 miles (112,000 km) on the car, driving 35,000 miles a year on average. The Insight has made/saved me $18,000 over the 2 years.
Just a heads up, I got my cat stolen at the DOT Lowell park and ride in broad daylight today between 8am and 2pm.
Keeps seeing third gens, so I’m chiming in. Next race is later this month, I hope to have onboard footage of it.
I bought my Gaggia Classic e24 a little more than a year ago with intentions to modify it. After enjoying the machine stock for a year I am finally considering modifying it. The only two issues I really have with the machine are the two classic ones of 1) temp stability for multiple shots and 2) steam pressure. Originally I planned to go Gaggimate but Ive enjoyed the mechanical feel and control over the espresso so I will be going with more "traditional" routes.
Is it redundant to do the PID upgrade and super steam?
My commute to work and back is about 8% backroads, 2% city, and 90% highway. As I got onto the highway going to work and also coming home I found semi trucks going 65 mph and was able to follow them without impeding traffic. I suspect by the end of the week I’ll have closer to 70 mpg but my best tank so far is 77.5 over 711 miles so maybe I’ll beat that.
Second stage rally my brother and I competed in. Our only goal this time around was to not DNF after getting really familiar with snow banks and heavy sweep at Sno* in Feb.
Hardwood CUP Rally was a blast! Despite being a long drive I’m pretty thankful Michigan has 4 stage rallies and dozens of other TSD and Rallycross events. Next stop: Iron Mule
Credit,
1st photo: Jerry Winker
2nd photo: Max Sutton
I see a lot of people ask how to be better at hypermiling and I think it would be a lot easier to point them to a list or master post on the big hitters. Here is the basics I do on my drives that I find the most effective.
Ecomodder.com has two great lists, one for techniques, one for mods, that go into detail on every little mod and technique you can think of but these for me are the easiest ways to increase MPG without sacrificing too much in the name of MPG.
After wanting a 240 for the better part of 10 years I finally got an excuse to get one sort of. My little brother turned 16 and I found a great deal on a 1981 244. With all old cars it has some small repairs to do. Long story short, what is this part so I can get it replaced? It makes a buzzing noise after the engine gets warm and causes the engine to die when warm. I’d assume it’s part of the fuel system but I can’t find it on a part diagram to look up replacement or common issues.
It is located under the intake manifold pretty much under the furthest forward intake runner.
Driving for work, 81 mpg to the job site and concluded with 78 on the way back. I’ll be doing the drive again tomorrow so hopefully I can keep it in the high 70s. If all goes well it should be my first 700+ tank. (2.89 | 3 l/100km)
2000 Honda Insight 5ah LiBCM, LiControl
UPDATE: I finished off the tank at 711 miles at 77.5 MPG.
Ive replaced the radiator cap 4 separate times with 4 different caps and have replaced the radiator its self. Coolant keeps leaking out of the radiator when the truck gets up to temp. It seems like it is leaking out of the cap and not pushing up into the coolant reservoir BUT when it cools down it seems to pull from the reservoir still. Is this a case where the OEM radiator cap is the only thing that should be used and the only thing that works? v
Finally pulled the body off of the pan on my Stage Rally Beetle project. 1969 VW Beetle. The plan is do a full restoration and keep it air cooled to race in ARA and NASA Rally. Its a long way from hitting the stages right now but getting the body off is a huge step in restoring the pan and then the body. The plan for the engine is a 1776cc or 2110cc dual port depending on the final weight of the chassis.
Picked this up on Facebook. I’ll probably use it as a core to build a 1776 or 2110 out of. There’s a lot of crank walk that I think is the bearing moving though so it may be a junk engine. Engine tear down will answer that eventually.