Why does the Outlander PHEV feel smoother than Mazda’s newer PHEV system?

I’m curious if other Outlander PHEV owners have experienced the same thing.

I have driven/have experience with a 2019 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV S-Edition with around 150,000 km on it. Even though it is 5-6 years old and has fairly high mileage, the PHEV system still feels very smooth and natural to drive.

I recently drove a Mazda CX-60 PHEV, and it honestly made me appreciate the Outlander PHEV system more.

I generally like Mazda. My grandmother has a 2019 CX-3 with the bigger petrol engine, 6-speed manual, sport exhaust, adaptive cruise, heated steering wheel and top spec. That car is genuinely fun to drive and feels very Mazda. So this is not meant as Mazda hate.

But the CX-60 PHEV felt much less smooth to me. At lower speeds and when gently getting back on the throttle, the drivetrain felt jerky and a bit clunky. It felt like there was some hesitation or lurching between the electric motor, petrol engine and transmission. The interior, equipment and premium feel were nice, but the drivetrain would honestly be a dealbreaker for me.

From what I understand, the systems are built very differently.

The Outlander PHEV feels more EV-based. It has a petrol engine, generator, front electric motor and rear electric motor. In EV mode, the electric motors drive the car. In series hybrid mode, the petrol engine mainly works as a generator, while the electric motors still drive the wheels. In parallel hybrid mode, usually at higher steady speeds, the petrol engine can drive the front wheels directly.

The Mazda CX-60 PHEV seems more like a traditional drivetrain with a 2.5 petrol engine, one electric motor and an 8-speed automatic transmission. It feels more like a normal automatic car that is also trying to be electric, while the Outlander feels more like an electric car with a petrol engine helping in the background.

What I find interesting is that Mazda’s solution sounds more complicated and potentially more expensive, but not necessarily smoother in real-world driving. I understand that the Mazda may have advantages in performance, towing, rear-biased AWD, interior quality and premium feel. But for everyday driving, the Outlander PHEV system feels much more natural to me.

It makes me think that Mitsubishi’s longer experience with PHEV systems really shows. Even an older Outlander PHEV with 150,000 km feels smoother than a much newer Mazda PHEV.

Has anyone here driven both an Outlander PHEV and a Mazda CX-60/CX-90 PHEV?

Did you notice the same difference in drivetrain smoothness?

Also, for those who have driven both the older and newer Outlander PHEV, does the newer generation keep the same smooth EV-like feeling, or is it different?

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u/JonasBertheussen — 6 days ago
▲ 1 r/mazda

Are Mazda PHEVs and the Outlander PHEV built for the same purpose, or am I misunderstanding them?

I want to start by saying that I really like Mazda. I’m not trying to hate on the brand at all. My grandmother has a 2019 CX-3 with the bigger petrol engine, 6-speed manual, sport exhaust, adaptive cruise, heated steering wheel and basically top spec. That car is genuinely fun to drive. It feels light, responsive and very “Mazda”.

But I recently drove a CX-60 PHEV, and honestly, it kind of put me off Mazda hybrids.

The drivetrain felt jerky and not very smooth, especially at lower speeds and when gently getting back on the throttle. It felt like there was some hesitation, lurching or clunky transition between the electric motor, petrol engine and transmission. Not terrible, but very noticeable.

For comparison, I also drive/have experience with a 2019 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV S-Edition with around 150,000 km on it. That car is 5-6 years older, has much higher mileage, and is not really a premium car in the same way. Still, the PHEV system feels much smoother and more natural to drive.

From what I understand, the systems are built very differently.

The CX-60 PHEV uses a 2.5-litre petrol engine, one electric motor, a 17.8 kWh battery and an 8-speed automatic transmission. The electric motor is integrated into the drivetrain, on the same axis as the engine and transmission. It also does not use a traditional torque converter, but instead uses a multi-plate clutch setup.

The Outlander PHEV is built more like an EV-based hybrid. It has a petrol engine, a generator, a front electric motor, a rear electric motor and a battery. In EV mode, the electric motors drive the car. In series hybrid mode, the petrol engine mainly works as a generator, while the electric motors still drive the wheels. In parallel hybrid mode, usually at higher steady speeds, the petrol engine can drive the front wheels directly.

To me, that difference is very noticeable. The Outlander feels like an electric car with a petrol engine helping in the background. The CX-60 feels more like a normal automatic car that is also trying to be electric, and the result is not as smooth.

I also wonder if I am comparing them fairly. On one hand, I understand that the CX-60 and Outlander PHEV may not have exactly the same purpose. The Mazda seems more focused on premium feel, performance, towing, rear-biased AWD and a more traditional driving experience. The Outlander seems more focused on being a practical, smooth, EV-first family SUV.

But at the same time, they are both plug-in hybrid SUVs. Both are supposed to work as everyday family cars, both offer electric driving for shorter trips, petrol power for longer journeys and AWD/4WD traction. So from a buyer’s point of view, I think it is fair to compare them.

What I find strange is that Mazda’s solution sounds more complicated, and potentially more expensive as well. You have a petrol engine, electric motor, clutch/transmission setup, AWD system and hybrid system all working together through a more traditional drivetrain. On paper, I can understand why Mazda did it. It probably helps with performance, towing, rear-biased AWD and a more direct “premium” driving feel. But in real-world low-speed driving, it seems to create more noticeable transitions and more drivetrain feedback.

And for me, the drivetrain is honestly a dealbreaker. The interior, equipment, premium feel and other selling points are nice, but they do not make up for a drivetrain that does not feel smooth or natural to drive. A car can have a great interior and still not be enjoyable if the basic driving experience feels wrong.

That surprised me, because I generally think Mazda makes great petrol cars. I like the way they tune steering, chassis and manual gearboxes. But after driving the CX-60 PHEV, I would honestly be much more interested in a newer Outlander PHEV than a Mazda PHEV.

Has anyone else here driven both the Mazda CX-60/CX-90 PHEV and the Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV? Do you think they are actually comparable, or are they built for completely different buyers? And did you notice the same difference in drivetrain smoothness?

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u/JonasBertheussen — 6 days ago
▲ 4 r/cbr650r+3 crossposts

CB650R/CBR650R gearing: 15/43 vs 15/44 for highway riding?

Hi!

I’m looking at changing the chain and sprockets on my 2022 Honda CB650R, and I’m trying to decide what gearing to go for.

Stock setup is 15/42, 525 chain. I ride quite a lot of highway, so I don’t want the bike to feel too buzzy or rev-happy at cruising speed. At the same time, I wouldn’t mind sacrificing a little bit of comfort for better acceleration and a bit more punch out of corners.

I’m mainly considering 15/43 or possibly 15/44, but I’m also curious about people’s experiences with dropping one tooth in the front.

Here’s the gearing comparison I’ve calculated compared to stock:

Setup Change from stock Comment
15/42 0% Stock setup
15/43 +2.4% rpm Mild change, probably the most sensible option
15/44 +4.8% rpm More noticeable, but maybe still livable
14/42 +7.1% rpm Clearly shorter gearing
14/43 +9.7% rpm Pretty aggressive
14/44 +12.2% rpm Probably too much for frequent highway riding

And roughly what that means for rpm at the same road speed:

Setup If stock is 5000 rpm If stock is 6000 rpm If stock is 7000 rpm
15/42 5000 rpm 6000 rpm 7000 rpm
15/43 5120 rpm 6140 rpm 7170 rpm
15/44 5240 rpm 6290 rpm 7330 rpm
14/42 5360 rpm 6430 rpm 7500 rpm
14/43 5490 rpm 6580 rpm 7680 rpm
14/44 5610 rpm 6740 rpm 7860 rpm

For those of you who have changed gearing on a CB650R or CBR650R:

  1. How noticeable was the change in real riding?
  2. Would you recommend 15/43, 15/44, or something else?
  3. Did it make the bike too busy on the highway?
  4. Did you have any issues with chain length, speedometer accuracy, or traction control/ABS behavior?

Right now I’m leaning towards 15/43 as a safe “OEM+” setup, but I’m tempted by 15/44 if it still feels fine on the highway. Any real-world experience would be appreciated.

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u/JonasBertheussen — 15 days ago
▲ 174 r/CB650R

Just wanted to share some shots from a trackday

I know the CB650R is not exactly the first bike people think of when it comes to track riding. It is obviously not a supersport, and I am not trying to pretend it is, but for a middleweight naked bike it really surprised me.

Rudskogen is a pretty fast track, and I still felt like the bike had more than enough power for my level. I reached 211 km/h on the start/finish straight, which honestly surprised me a bit for a naked 650.

I was running brand new Metzeler Sportec M9RR tyres, in case anyone is wondering. I had around 30 to 32 psi in the front and 30 to 34 psi in the rear during the day, depending on session and temperature. They felt really predictable and gave me a lot of confidence right away.

The bike itself felt playful, easy to trust, and really fun through the corners. That being said, track riding definitely shows what I would like to improve next. I think a proper front fork service with fresh Honda/Showa SS 8 10W or similar fork oil would help, and a better rear shock would probably make the bike feel more controlled when pushing harder. Brakes are also on the list, of course.

Still, I came away really impressed. The CB650R might not be the fastest bike in the paddock, but it is such a fun and confidence inspiring bike on track. For me, that matters more than just chasing numbers.

u/JonasBertheussen — 1 month ago
🔥 Hot ▲ 5.7k r/motorcycles

My leather suit keeps getting tighter every season. Anyone else suffering from this mechanical failure?

I need some technical advice from the motorcycle community.

Every season, my leather suit seems to get tighter. Same suit, same hanger, same closet. Yet somehow, when spring comes around, it has clearly shrunk another 3 percent in the torso and 7 percent around the stomach.

I have considered all possible explanations:

- The leather is shrinking in storage

- The air in my hallway has become denser

- Dainese has installed remote firmware updates

- My base layer has gained mass

- The suit is slowly turning into a MotoGP spec compression garment

- Or, worst case scenario, I may have personally become more aerodynamic in the wrong direction...

The weird part is that once I’m on the bike, it feels pretty good. But standing in front of the mirror, I look like a budget Batman who just discovered kebab, pizza and winter depression.

Anyone else have this issue where your leathers fit perfectly one season, then the next season they require a full warmup routine, a prayer, and someone to help zip you up?

Also, before anyone says “just lose weight”, I already know. I’m just trying to blame the cow first.

TLDR: My leathers are shrinking. I refuse to accept any evidence that says otherwise.

u/JonasBertheussen — 1 month ago

Am I the only one who thinks the winglet trend has gone too far on modern sportbikes?

Edit: I posted a summary/update comment with what I learned from the replies and where I still stand on the winglet trend.

I know this is subjective, and I also want to be clear that I am not against technology on motorcycles. I love modern electronics, quickshifters, rider aids, TFT displays, good suspension, IMUs and everything that actually improves the riding experience.

But visually, I really dislike the current winglet trend on sport and supersport bikes.

I understand why aerodynamic appendages exist in MotoGP, WorldSBK and on homologation superbikes. At very high speeds, downforce, front end stability and wheelie reduction can make a real difference. BMW, Ducati and other manufacturers clearly have engineering reasons for using them on their top level bikes.

At the same time, even Valentino Rossi was openly critical of MotoGP winglets years ago and called them ugly. MotoGP also banned protruding winglets from 2017, partly because of concerns around safety, turbulence and unpredictable aerodynamic effects. So it is not like this topic has never been controversial, even at the highest level of racing.

My issue is mostly with the visual design trend on street bikes. I think large front winglets often ruin the clean lines of a motorcycle. It is even worse when people fit aftermarket winglets to bikes that were never designed with them from the factory. To me, that often looks like cheap add on plastic rather than proper integrated design.

This has honestly reached the point where it affects what bikes I would consider buying. For example, I would rather look at an older, cleaner S1000RR without winglets than a newer one with big aero parts on the front. I have seen other people say the same thing, so I know I am not completely alone in this.

I fully understand that some people like the aggressive MotoGP inspired look, especially on bikes like the Panigale V4, M1000RR and RSV4. I also get that on a proper track focused superbike, the function is real. But for road riding and especially on smaller bikes or random aftermarket setups, I just think the trend looks forced.

Am I being too harsh, or do others also think winglets have gone too far on modern sportbikes?

Do you like them only when they are factory integrated, or do you think they look good even as aftermarket parts?

u/JonasBertheussen — 2 months ago

Anyone else traveling internationally for the Ohio Stadium show?

Is anyone else outside the US seriously considering traveling to Columbus for the Ohio Stadium show?

I’m from Norway, and I’m honestly seriously considering flying over for the October 17th show. It feels like one of those once in a lifetime twenty one pilots moments, especially with it being in Columbus and at Ohio Stadium.

I would most likely be traveling solo, which is a little intimidating, but also kind of exciting. I’m curious if there are others from Europe or outside the US who are planning the same thing?

Would be cool to hear where people are traveling from, and if anyone has done a big solo concert trip like this before.

u/JonasBertheussen — 2 months ago
▲ 109 r/FuckAdobe

Adobe tried to trap me with an early termination fee, but backed down when I pushed back

I finally got out of Adobe’s cancellation fee trap.

I recently subscribed to Creative Cloud Pro and honestly thought “annual, billed monthly” meant I was paying monthly and could cancel like a normal monthly subscription.

Nope.

When I tried to cancel, Adobe wanted an early termination fee. Apparently “billed monthly” does not actually mean monthly in the way most normal people understand it. It means you are locked into a yearly contract, but they take the money from you every month.

First, support asked why I wanted to cancel. I told them I had finished studying and no longer needed the subscription.

Then they offered me 2 free months to stay.

I declined. I told them I did not want free months, a discount, or some retention offer. I wanted to cancel without paying an early termination fee, because I did not feel the 12-month commitment and cancellation fee were made clear enough before purchase.

I also mentioned that I am a Norwegian consumer, and that key information like total price, contract duration, binding period, and cancellation terms must be clearly presented before purchase under consumer law.

After that, they cancelled my plan and refunded me NOK 296.25.

So yeah, if Adobe tries to charge you to leave, do not just accept it. Push back. Stay polite, but be firm. Say you do not accept free months. Say you want the early termination fee waived. Ask them to escalate the case if needed.

The wild part is that this should not even be necessary. A company should not be allowed to make a subscription look monthly, then punish people for leaving.

Fuck Adobe’s subscription model.

u/JonasBertheussen — 2 months ago
▲ 2 r/CB650R

I have an SP Connect Pro motorcycle phone mount with a vibration dampener. Right now, I’m using a power bank in my tank bag to charge my phone.

I want to install a wireless charger, and my question is whether anyone here has used the SP Connect wireless charger, and how you wired it up. Did you connect it to the USB-C port under the passenger seat, directly to the battery, or to an ignition-switched power source?

reddit.com
u/JonasBertheussen — 2 months ago