u/LoudChocolate6290

I swear I searched and Im shocked there aren't more threads on this...but here for a "Is cerakoting profitable" type of post.

So long story short, I used to paint crank baits when I was fishing more. I got pretty decent with it and even tried to get artsy with it and enjoyed not only the process but being able to use my thoughts/imagination to do my thing. Well been getting back into guns, and basically im gonna try and cerakote a HBPDW, but only the polymer cheek weld area. Im admittedly half assing it (im using C series)...but the Behr at Lowes didnt match my hand guard enough for my liking so here I am trying it out.

Well that got my gears moving. Theres a few cerakote places local but only 2 certified via the cerakote website. I likely wouldn't do the certification right away (but I would ultimately want to) but I dont mind getting an FFL and get right there. Im also cool with the investment in equipment and paint to do it the right way. And, I think I can get good at it cuz I got a pretty steady hand. Im pretty creative too and think EVENTUALLY....LONG eventually be able to get in the same ballpark as some of you wizards in here.

SO, long story longer. I have a full time job and am not looking to quit that any time soon cuz im experiencing good career growth I wouldn't want to get away from. If I was to do this as a side hustle/borderline hobby....can I eke out some profit? Maybe once I get on that wizard level with years of experience and trial and error then maybe I can consider doing something crazy like trying to start a cerakote business. I had no idea how many things could/are cerakoted and it seems like there is potential out there for making some money as a side hustle at least.

Thanks for reading my book of a post! LOL any insights are appreciated and feel free to insult me for my half assing plans for the HBPDW. appreciate the insights either way 🫡

So I just discovered literally on Thursday that mineral spirits could be used to clean guns when I watched a 14 year old RIA 1911 cleaning video. So I started going down that rabbit hole.

Seems like even though that video said no damage to wood, damage to wood and the parts being completely stripped of lube/oil are the main downfalls of mineral spirits. It's my understanding that Ed's red solves the "completely stripped of lube/oil" problem, but im wondering if this can still cause wood damage?

My current working conclusion is that mineral spirits/Ed's red is a top tier choice for parts that are all metal, i.e. BCG, springs, and other internal all metal parts. Then anything closer to wood just use CLP or a specialized gun cleaner. Currently im using ridiculous amounts of CLP and would like something I can use more liberally, and mineral spirits/ed's reds seems like the deal.

After that Ted talk here's my question....has anyone/is anyone using mineral spirits or Ed's Red to clean their guns and can share their insights about it? Do you all have any other chemicals/cleaning supplies you recommend?

Theyre HIGH shelf in case you are a safety aficionado...might have to pass on these.

Not asking if this is the best rifle to do what I want, or any suggestions for any other guns. Im just asking if anyones used a lower end 16 inch barreled non sabre (since it's my understanding those can be FN barrels) PSA in 5.56 to shoot at those ranges?

Before you all judge me too much, super sass was my next purchase for this purpose....but im eyeing a shorter barrel G$ at a price im willing to pay (range toy and likely home defense purposes as well) and if I buy the G$, the super sass will be on ice for at least another 6 months but likely another year. So wondering if LARPing my pawn shop PSA as a "special purpose rifle" and tossing a long range scope on it will fulfill my long range needs for a year or so? (its not a sabre and its got upgrades to all the base PSAs I seen when I was trying to ID my rifle, but im pretty sure it doesnt have an FN barrel)

Lowest price Ive seen 22 recently and it's not Winchester 🤷‍♂️

Out of stock 🤔🤷‍♂️

BUT dropping weight so thats why im wanting to IWB carry now LOL.

I was kinda sold on the certum because I saw in several posts and threads that people mentioned it was comfy. I saw the fat guy holster and it seems like what im wanting too. but once you do all the add ons, its close enough in price that price is a non-factor choosing between them.

So has anyone used both of these buy any chance? any others that are more "comfy" than these 2 options? Also....whats the deal with pillows and wedges? seem like a good idea, but also just seems like 1 more moving part that is less than ideal to have

Picked up some solvent free last year at 420. EXTREMELY good stuff for the price point, especially the sour diesel. Just picked 4 from them about a month ago. Each one looked and smelled near the same/extremely similarly lemony and had an almost translucent blonde look instead of the brown/blondes im used to seeing. It reminded me of that translucent look some sugars get.

Just now picked up some freshies. Very similar deal to solvent free. BUT these dont have that translucent look, just a super clean/high end looking blonde color. BUT BUT...they do smell very similarly as well and it is lemon leaning as well.

It's my understanding what I described can be symptoms of CRC'd concentrates. Ive also had high end rosin in Colorado like Lazer cat and it looked somewhat similar....BUT it was super expensive ($70 pre-tax about 3-4 years ago). From what I was told they took extra steps during their wash process that required more man power/hours and this was their justification....it was all pretty tasty when I did try them.

Now my issue is, how are budget ($20 range pretax) rosin brands able to get the same look of something like lazercat? and why doesnt it smell or taste as good as it looks? I really think this is the new trend. Press some bunko flower that looks, smells and tastes terrible...then CRC'ing it. I mean it's still technically solvent free and pressed, right? This seems like a workaround that allows the companies to exploit technicalities and take advantage of their consumer.

Im thinking $1200-1500 because it seems like you can consistently get a DD for that price and that seems like its on the threshold where its probably the best bang for your buck with a willingness to pay a little more for quality....since I kinda feel technically PSA is best bang for your buck, but I dont necessarily see their $600-$800 rifles as lifetime rifles where I think the case can be made for that for DD in the hands of a "regular person"

Trying to talk myself out of the super duty ive convinced myself I have to own LOL I shoot a lot of 9mm so I dont mind having a little more ammo money if you all can talk me out of it

I cant find much on it. It's on preorder, 4-8 weeks from order to delivery....and the best part, it's $290. So im hoping they are past the growing pains and its a quick easy install and works on all 10/22s due to all that. Whats your alls experience? FRT or can? or both? LOL

I strangely kinda wanna slow my ROF down just to give me that extra split second of trigger squeeze dopamine. Currently around 800. Im using the RMB that came with my gun and replaced the buffer tube with an A5 as recommended. Everything is great but man a 3 round mag dump of 104 rounds goes to quick and I wanna stretch that out a bit if I can since the slower ROF should still be as fun imo.

The brands I see on ammoseek are sterling, BPS, Turan, Southern Munitions (reloads). Wondering if those are reliable for range ammo like the Blazer, American eagle and other big box brands are.