Rifle is a browning 1885 High wall 45-90 34" 1:18" twist. Lube will most likely be a 50/50 crisco beeswax mix.
I've heard those limited serious BPCR 1885s from Browning have long throats and prefer creedmoor bullets, but I won't know without any bullet samples to test jam length.
Would the low velocity m212 even get the fuze to activate?
I'm considering trying out doing a wild bunch competition, so I'd need lead cast 45acp. I have a Lee 452-200-RF for my single action pistols, and I could try those in my 1911s, but I'm curious if there's a tried and true, maybe even 180gr 45acp bullet mold that everyone likes. I wouldn't be shooting more than a handful of mags for the day, so leading isn't a big concern, I probably wouldn't even lube the bullets and I don't powder coat. Is there a consensus or should I just stick with the mold I already have?
Love the look of the cleaner grille from a valiant. Something to really make your duster stand out!
Is there a powder coat color that best resembles a jacketed bullet? Obviously it won't be close enough to fool anyone, but the same general color as copper? Seems the most popular colors are lipstick red and bright blue, but I have never seen anyone use a color that looks like copper.
Interested in a single SX-60 speaker. Mine are out of warranty and the tweeter just failed on mine. Would cost more to repair than to buy a new one, but they only sell them in pairs. If anyone has one they're willing to part with, or a broken one that still has a functioning tweeter I can salvage, it would save me some trouble. Willing to pay up to $165 +20ish for shipping (pirateship prices)
No hood scoops, no spoiler, just the body, and some classic police steelies on an alpine white 440 4 barrel is my grail car.
I remember owning the GOTY edition on ps2 and manually recording all OST and uploading it digitally (long since lost media). When I played the PC ported version a decade ago, I went to the sound settings and realized music wasn't playing. I went to YouTube to look for the song that played on the ps2 version but nobody uploaded it. Even the Japanese Ost that was on ffshrine back in the day didn't have that song. So can anyone who owns it today confirm that there is indeed a unique song that plays in the sound settings menu in the pause screen? It might only play when you scroll to "music volume", but it was just a quick 20sec loop.
Impressive. Very nice. Let's see Paul Allen's backwards FSB.
Which powder measure gives a properly consistent drop (that's acceptable variance)? Ideally case activated. I have great success with ball powder on the Dillon 550 with the powder measure it comes with. With just .1-.2 variance tops on .223, but with .308, I can see the powder seems to spill a tiny bit on the shell plate, I can't seem to get a consistent and smooth powder drop of 46gr of BLC(2). is this just the nature of dropping over 40gr of ball powder on a progressive, or are there areas I can clean up on the setup to minimize the variances?
Would it be easier/more cost effective to
A: Sell all my 38-55 brass, dies, mold and rebarrel my 1885 High Wall to a 45-90 (barrel and extractor are the only things that need to be swapped)
B: Sell my whole 38-55 setup and buy a brand new rifle
C: Become rich enough to buy a Sharps like everyone else uses and stop using a high wall
Have a speaker just out of warranty that recently started crackling and isn't producing any actual audio other than the static.
Is there any decent guide or manual for Cambridge speakers to help me isolate?
I'm handy with electronics, I can solder boards and contacts, just need to know what to do as I'm not savvy with electronics other than when it's on an aircraft lol.
So over 100 of you fine gents had plenty of suggestions and I read every single one of your comments.
To answer a few questions that came up, in no particular order:
The fix? It was highlighted to me that I shouldn't tumble nickel with brass, so I pulled all the brass shells out and the picture above was all cruddy, sooty (suppressor fired), dirty, and sun-aged. The majority of the brass was more brown than golden. I also spent a few hours tumbling just my pins and tumblers, while pulling them off every 45min to thoroughly rinse the water and *laundry detergent* off. Now my brass is coming out nice and shiny again, I'm sure if I use new (once fired by me, and not random range pickup) brass, I'll see the lighter shade and even more glossy like when I first started wet tumbling.
TL;DR: Suggestions taken, don't mix brass and nickel, wash pins and tumbler thoroughly and now brass is shiny again.
I've tried messing around with SunoAI just for a rough idea how a remix could sound, but it chews it up too much it's unrecognizable.
I love what Skeler did with P.O.D. Youth Of The Nation, and I think you could do something similar to this sample.
It would be cool if you could have a setting for the VOIP and observer/commander radio be on different channels (like IRL). Where all the team chat only came through on LH and all the radio calls came through on RH.
Just a shower thought.
With pins, without pins, with dawn, without dawn, hot water, cold water, lemishine, pure citric acid, wash n wax, 1 hour, all 3 hours. I even used a brand new tumbler! I cannot, for the life of me, produce anything but dull brass. Even the nickel plated comes out more satin than gloss. I just want to go back to when I first started tumbling and everything came out looking brand new.
So for those of us that cast our own lead bullets, we've got the equipment. Could you start getting zinc (zamak) wheel weights from auto shops (since their lead is usually what's being asked)? Like if they give you both, cool, but let's say they have someone who already wants their lead, it might be easier to corner a market on the less desired zinc weights. All you'd need is your own custom mold for a 40mm pusher and you could start casting your own out of melted wheel weights. I've heard that they can typically be the same ZAMAK as the pushers.
Has anyone thought of this? I know the current meta is to just 3d print everything, but I'm curious if if it's even a viable route for increasing the supply of components in our space.