I'm looking at SCCA as a midlife crisis hobby and the only car I could easily afford and store is a Honda Beat. It's too light for XA or XB, so the closest thing is XU. Am I reading that right?
I'd like to get fluffier whole wheat loaves with higher rises out of my Virtuoso Plus. Bread Dad had a 50% whole wheat recipe that was good but I'd really like to get a good tall 100% whole wheat rise.
I've experimented with adding more vital wheat gluten, but that leads to collapsed tops. I haven't tried different time lengths on the custom recipe settings yet since I wasn't sure to start. Using buttermilk instead of water seems to help a bit but it's just not quite there.
Any tips?
Photos with handwritten timestamp: https://imgur.com/a/i7o32gp
A couple of years ago I wanted a Firebird style guitar with a boat neck profile - just a slight soft V, so I know where my thumb is at - and a Miami Beach color scheme. No such guitar exists, whether for good or bad reasons, and I sourced the parts to build it myself. I didn't quite realize that I'm better at building guitars than I am at playing them, and this has been collecting dust in my closet for too long.
Behold, the Schmender Firecaster. One of a kind. The best of both worlds: the kickass look of a Firebird with the ergonomics and features of a Stratocaster and the neck of a Telecaster. The body is poplar, made by a guy in Connecticut, so it's not as dense but sounds pretty great, and it has a belly contour like a Strat. The result is ergonomic paradise; it sits nicely on your forearm wherever you put it. The neck is maple, I think it's just slightly roasted but I'm not 100% sure, and done by a guy in upstate New York. It feels like a low D profile, somewhere between the modern C and the soft V necks on Vintera 50s or JV Modified Strats.
The neck has been sanded and smoothed nicely with a matte oil finish. It's super duper smooth. The body is pore-filled and painted a nice off-white with a semi-flat topcoat, like the stucco frontage of an Ocean Drive hotel.
The decal is a waterslide done custom by someone on Etsy to represent this masterpiece of the Schmender workshop, made in the USA in good ol' Union, NJ - 78th best place to live in America (source: CNN Money Magazine, 2018) The decal is protected by a few layers of polished gloss poly topcoat. The tuners are Hipshot 6K1EL0C-STAG tuners in chrome - nice, steady, locking tuners that are solid as a rock. Bone nut, not sure of manufacturer, 9.5" radius.
The result is one of several 3D printed components - the pickguard is multi-color printed. That's not paint, that's solid plastic. Same for the pickup rings. One of them has started to split but I can print a replacement. One cool thing to note - the pickup rings have a gradient shade effect, or whatever it's called when the alternating colored lines become thinner and thinner in one direction.
The pickup cavities and pickguard are all 3D printed - that's not paint, that's solid plastic. The pickup cavities and rings have been shielded with foil tape and grounded, as has the dial cavity.
The pickups are Guitar Fetish Crunchy Pat High Output humbucker pickups, 10k neck, 14k bridge. They're wired to Guitar Fetish's Kwikplug, which I think is just a generic 1/8" TRS or TS plug. They're wired up to coil split off of push-pull pots on the tone knobs if you want to do some fun sound stuff. It's a Wilkinson dual-loader bridge, currently going through the body.
I designed and 3D printed the volume and tone knobs in Broadway font - same one they used for the Miami Vice logo. Can you tell that this guitar was built on a singular aesthetic ideal yet?
The pots are genuine CTS - 500k push-pull tone pots, I can't seem to find the specs for the volume ones but they're probably also CTS. The jack is a standard Strat style one, because I would rather have it there than on the edge of the guitar. Generic neck plate and ferrules, strap buttons, and screws.
The back plate is a donor from another guitar since I couldn't find a 3D printable one and was too lazy to seek another one out again. It's painted to match but there's a fleck on it.
Asking $450 OBO. I can throw in a matching strap and SKB soft fabric hard case - $15 for the strap, $150 for the case. Shipping at actual cost to your location; local pickup is available in NJ.
I would consider interesting trades, especially for Telecasters or T-style guitars. I'm fairly open to trades so offer up, the worst I can say is no. The more fungible the trade, the more likely I am to consider it, although I could definitely use a better mesh wifi network setup or Switch 2.
I'll throw in the matching strap for $20 and the SKB soft/hard case for $150.
I sent a modmail about this but got no response, so if this is not OK please feel free to remove.
Two years ago I built a partscaster clone of Azusa's Mustang since the real deal was way out of my price range. Turns out short scale isn't for me, and it's been sitting in my closet ever since. I'm not in a situation where I need to make money off of it and the subreddit doesn't allow sales, but it doesn't say we can't give stuff away.
I'd like to give this guitar to someone from the sub. I would really prefer that it goes to someone who honestly couldn't afford a full setup to learn to play guitar, but could at least start with this and maybe a cheap amp. I will ask that you cover the costs of packing and shipping from New Jersey, USA, but I am happy to give quotes and show receipts so you can confirm I'm not making any profit.
All I ask is that you consider your own means before claiming this - I'd really like this to go to someone in genuine need. I won't ask questions or for any verification. If more than one person is interested by 6 PM GMT -5 on 8/9/26, I'll draw names out of a hat. If your name gets picked you have 48 hours to let me know your location and complete payment for shipping. After 48 hours, another name will be drawn and you will lose your claim.
I'll try to scrounge up a guitar shipping box if Guitar Center has one in their recycling, but if not I may have to purchase one. Expect anywhere from $40-$60 shipping + insurance if you're in the US, more if you're overseas.
I've built and locally donated about 6 or 7 guitars from other project guitars and salvaging parts from busted guitars. I'd rather this goes to a K-On fan.
The body is a generic Mustang clone, made of alder, in candy apple red. It does have some cracks from a drop. Think of it as road wear, but it's definitely repairable if you have the time, inclination, and some Bondo + paint.
The neck is a generic short scale Mustang clone. I painted the headstock as close to the candy apple red as I could get it. It's not a perfect match but it does get the point across. Unfortunately I couldn't find an inexpensive enough neck with the dark dots on an actual Mustang so it has pearl squares.
The pickups are from a Squier Sonic Mustang and the switches are configured for the standard on/off/inphase/outphase setup on a Mustang. The pickguard is 3D printed, black/white/black layers, with a textured build plate that sorta looks like pearl white. The pots are CTS pots, either A250k or B250k, with 3D printed knobs. IIRC the pickup covers are generic or 3D printed, not sure which.
The saddle is a genuine Fender MIJ Mustang saddle, the bridge/tailpiece/tremolo bar (if I can find the damn thing) are generic. I set it up with D'Addario 10-52 strings and I've got it intonated decently enough. The neck and pocket are a nice clean fit. The neck plate, strap buttons, knob cover, and tuners are generic stainless steel, nice and shiny.
I should be able to dig up a gig bag, basic guitar cable, tuner, strap, and some picks to get you started.
If you are interested, please reply to the OP - not to other people's comments - with "I'm interested" just so I can easily keep track. Anything other than that I'll respond to as if it's a question/comment/concern. Happy to go to chat or PMs if people have questions that they don't want to ask publicly.
My wife and I both max our 401k to the $23,500 limit. We do backdoor IRAs every year. We have HDHPs and max contribute to our HSA.
We're going to start converting from our 401ks into our Roth IRAs to reduce RMDs.
We contribute about $2000/mo post tax into a brokerage account with a regular Boglehead portfolio, presently 90/10 stocks/bonds and shifting up to 85/15.
Should I be putting that $2000/mo into a Roth 401k instead? IIRC it's allowed to contribute another $23,500 to a Roth 401k. Our post-tax brokerage has way more than we'll need to ever liquidate, it's essentially a retirement account for all intents and purposes. It seems like it'd be better to let it grow tax-free, especially as a way to increase my bond allocation over time.
Edit: thank you all for the corrections, I was misinformed about the "you can do $23,500 to each 401k" part, and that's the crux of the issue. Back to brokerage it shall go!
I have about $60k from a combined recent windfall of 1st year RSU payoff + bonuses + ESPP for both me and my P2. $24k of that is in a standard 4-fund post-tax brokerage portfolio to set aside for a replacement for our car in about 5-10 years. I've contributed around $250/mo to that portfolio. The rest - around $36k - has been in my savings account while I figured out where my risk tolerance lay.
It's been hard to ignore CD rates and just moving it all into savings, but I read through the post on the Cash Trap and am OK with putting it into 80/20 bonds/stocks. I am far less risk tolerant since I don't want to finance the car and i have no clue what prices of a decent used electric car will look like in 2031-2036.
My question here - for the 80% that'll be in bonds, which funds should I be targeting? Just BND and call it a day? A mix of government bonds to at least have some tax advantage on interest?
If it makes a difference, I was planning to split the 20% going to stocks between VXUS and VTI - I can accept that amount having volatility to offset whatever happens with bond prices over the next few years.
Artisanally vectored over a few days and weeks, done on an Xdraw A3. I wish it was easier to find cheap nonreflective frame glass.
I've got around 290 VDI VMs that were created with P20 OS disks due to IOPS concerns with FSLogix. They're not even coming close to the provisioned IOPS limit and because of that we want to reduce them to P10 disks to save on costs while still allowing for enough provisioned IOPS for FSLogix.
In the portal, doing this throws an error that reducing disk size is not supported. The docs say we should create snapshots of the disks then create new disks from the snapshots. That is a bit of a non-starter given the quantity of disks involved - I'm sure it could be automated but our automation devs might have a really long backlog before they can have a look at it.
I have a support case to ask if they can execute the SKU change on the back end in some way, but is there any way we can execute the change ourselves? All the disks are below 128gb in size within the OS so size isn't a concern. https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/azure/virtual-machines/disks-performance-tiers?tabs=azure-cli#restrictions mentions that tier reductions can happen only once every 12 hours, so it's technically possible.
I have a logo which I got from a bitmap trace. Parts of it are broader than others, and since I want to plot it with a pen plotter, they tend to get tough to make out at smaller sizes.
Is there a way to force all the paths to shrink, or to only go along the center of the path rather than to trace the whole thing?
Apologies for the camera photo, I'm RDPed into the machine and it doesn't have reliable internet.
I'd like to test the waters selling art at a smaller scale con to see how I like it. I work with pen plotted blueprints of sci-fi vehicles and stuff, and I figure my best bet is to split a table with someone. How do you folks recommend I seek out artists for local events? I'm sure it's a given to check for subreddits or Discords for the events if they exist - any other suggestions?
I'd love to see if there's any cyberpunk books worth reading where the protag is part of the big evil/standard capitalist megacorp. A direct hire, a wage slave, not a contractor stringer or something like that. Think like Jennifer Government, the first half of the guy from The Diamond Age, etc.
Any recs? Preferably available as ebooks on on non-Kindle sources but physical books are fine too.
I'm 3D printing some 11x14 frames and need to get glass or acrylic for them. Most places that sell framing acrylic sell it in sheets, and I don't know if I trust my CNC skills enough to machine it down to size just yet.
Other than Amazon, are there any US retailers that sell 5 or 10 packs of 11x14 acrylic or glass at non-bank breaking prices?
This is a friendly reminder from your /r/coldwar mod team - we have seen an uptick in shitposts, low quality replies, and bad-faith posts/replies. We try to keep an eye out but we rely on user reports to identify content that doesn't fit to the Cold War or is otherwise just crappy.
We are all for debate and discussion but we don't need the kind of slapfights or bot-driven anger farming that makes lots of Reddit suck. Please make use of the Report function to let us know about content that breaks the rules. Even if it's just a low-quality post, we want to know about it.
When in doubt, report it out!
I'm 6'2" and giving some thought to saving up for a kei car as a future fun-to-drive impractical car, but I want to make sure I can actually fit in it first. I've read some comments about having fitment issues and Doug Demuro looks like he's folding up to get into it.
If you have a kei car and you're in northern/central NJ, can I take a few minutes to sit in it? I'll buy you a coffee or something as thanks.
I'm using Mirror Symmetry to create symmetrical paths that meet in a defined center point. I'd like these paths to merge so that the paths can be one unbroken path once I get them to touch. This matters since I'll be using a pen plotter to plot them out, and the more merged lines = the less time the pen has to go up and down = smoother appearance.
Fuse Paths in mirror symmetry doesn't seem to do this. Is there a way I can accomplish what I'm trying to do?
I hand-vector traced Bill Sweetman's illustration of the hypothetical Aurora aircraft from his wonderful book on the plane and plotted it out on my pen plotter. One upcycled frame later and we're in business.
