u/PakRatJR

I know you can cut parts in the slicer, and I know you can export/save those parts individually.

I also know that you can add location pins and holes and such.

I do actually do it occasionally and it works well, but the issue I'm having is when I cut a part and add location pins and holes then try to export the individual parts so I can print them on two separate printers.

It exports the parts and the pins but the holes for the pins disappear from the part and says something about not saving booleans or something.

How do I get it to export/save the parts with the holes still in the parts?

On Pixel 7

I have been on US Cellular basically since the '90s and was very happy. As of two days ago I am now "officially" T-Mobile, and I'm still not really sure how I feel about it.

The Issue I am having is, on US Cellular before the merger started, it was a very rare occasion I dropped to one or 2 bars 5G. Basically I never had any issues getting full bars 5G. But for the last several months now since the whole merger thing, I have been getting absolute garbage for 5G signal.

I spend more time on LTE now than 5G, and when/if I do get 5G it's never more than 1 or 2 bars.

Is this a "fixable" thing somehow, or am I pretty much sol and maybe better switching to another carrier? My only other real option tho is Verizion and I'm honestly not real keen on them eather, but if it gets me my 5G back maybe I won't really have a choice??

On a Pixel 7.

With US Cellular I very rarely had issues with signal strength. Pretty much always at full bars of 5G with the occasional dip to two or three, but pretty rare.

Ever since the whole merger thing started It's been a crap shoot on getting 5G in general much less full bars.

I've spent the last several months now having more time on LTE than 5G. And when I do get 5G it's rarely more than one or two bars.

Anyone else running into this and any way to fix it other than maybe moving to a different carrier?

Bought myself a K1 Max recently and so far I'm pretty happy with it once I switched to Prusa slicer.

The one "issue" that I have so far is the first layer/Z offset.

It's WAY too close on a smooth sheet, which is what I mostly use.

I did find the setting on the LCD and can change it once it starts printing, but I can't seem to find any way to get it to save. It always resets when starting a new print and I'm constantly having to remember to watch and change it every time I print something.

Is there any way to get it to set and stay permanently, or am I just stuck having to change it every time?

As I'm typing this... The first print just finished and it failed miserably. PLA with my normal temp settings and no lid and the nozzle and extruder is good and properly jammed up. ☹️😡

Just picked up a new K1 Max as a upgrade from one of my older scratch built printers.

Been messing around with different files and such, and so far every files I slice is way slower than my other printers.

I have checked them compared to a MK2.5s, MK3.5s and MK4s. All printer settings are default, all part settings.... walls, infill, ect.... are the same.

The current test print is a calicat. 50 minutes on the MK2.5s and 39 minutes on the 3.5 and 4.

On the K1 it's 1 hour 16 minutes.

A thin spacer plate is 1 hour 30 minutes on my 3.5 and 4, 3 hours flat on my 2.5 and other printers, 2 hours 25 minutes on the K1.

Recently installed a MMU3 on my 3.5s.

Did all the calibrations/checks and such and sent my first 2 color print.

Everything worked and the test print came out great.

While building the mmu tho, I seen there was a updated set of extruder housing parts, so I printed those and did that upgrade as well.

I am now running into a issue where the mmu will not load the filament all the way to the extruder. The filament stops feeding right as it gets to the end of the front tube on the extruder side.

Basically it's no longer feeding far enough to hit the extruder. The front tube is still the same tube and nothing changed length wise.

I even found the tube length setting in the LCD menu and tried messing with that, but nothing changed.

How did the feed length change suddenly and how do I go about getting working/feeding all the way through again?

Also ideally I would actually like to make the front tube a bi longer, so I guess I would need to change it further to account for the extra length of the new tube.

I have a MK3s+ that I recently upgraded to the 3.5, and also added a MMU3 as of last night.

I noticed there is a newer version of the extruder body that has a different piece o n top where the filament enters and the sensor was.

I was already kicking around the thought of taking the extruder apart anyway for some maintenance, and figured I might as well update to the latest version of things while I'm at it, but I really don't want to have to undo and redo all the wiring again as I just did it for the 3.5 upgrade.

Is it possible to change the extruder body parts while leaving the back cover on and not having t undo everything, or would I just be better off just pulling everything again.

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I went and talked myself into a nice shiny new K1 Max a couple days ago and bought it through Amazon because it was fast shipping.

It got delivered yesterday but sadly I got sent a obviously used printer. Fingerprints all over the glass top, it was missing literally all the accessories, including the spool holder, and the re boxing job was very bad. The two small pieces of foam that were there were just loosely tossed in the printer. The bed and carriage were both just floating in air.

Needless to say, I never even took it out of the box. Called Amazon and had to do a return/refund as they had none left in stock.

So now I will be re ordering direct from Creality and I can't find info on shipping times so I can plan around the delivery.

Broke down and bought myself a K1 Max yesterday to replace a 10 year old scratch built of the same size. It will be here tomorrow.... supposedly.

Based on my past experiences with things over the years and looking at everything on the printer, the first thing I noticed that I'm not crazy about is the routing of the bowden tube.

I already have the thought in my head to reroute that and potentially moving the runout as well..... if possible, but I will need to see everything in person first to work out options.

I also plan on leaving the top glass off permanently as I only plan on printing PLA 99.9% of the time.

I've also seen several mentions of how noisy it is with all the fans running, so I already went through Creality slicer and found the setting for the side fan and turned it off, and depending on the wiring, also plan on disabling the rear exhaust fan as well as I know it won't be needed.

As far as anything else goes, would any experienced users have any other "little" things that you've done to your printer that made it just a bit better?

I actually have two showing up this weekend, a MMU2 and parts for a MMU3.

Still haven't decided exactly what I will be doing with them, but it was one of those "prices I couldn't pass up" types of things and curiosity got the best of me lol...

So far I am thinking the 3 will be going on my MK3.5, and haven't decided fir the MMU2 yet. I have a couple MK2.5s and a MK4, probably will end up on one of the 2.5s at some point.

The questions...

I very rarely actually have a need to do multi color. If I mostly do single, does that still need to run through the MMU or can I just disconnect the tube between the MMU and extruder and run it "normally" as before and just reconnect for multi color?

Second question is regarding filament runout.

Does that still get triggered on the extruder or is that in the MMU now, and is the option to automatically switch to a fresh roll on runout available yet or able to be added?

I have a possibility to pick up a MMU2s for fairly cheap.

I was digging on Prusas website as I was fairly sure they offered a upgrade kit to MMU3 but I can't find anything at all. Even digging on google I can't find anything other than full MMU3 kits or links to up[grade instructions.

Also I was planning on using it on a MK3.5S, but I also can't find any info on doing that eather.

Did they actually have a kit or am I just imagining things?? And does the MMU3 work on the 3.5S?

Edit: pics of the splitter in the comments.

I'm working on a MMU1 project and I downloaded all the relevant parts right from Prusas page on Printables.

Used Prusa PETG with their settings on a MK4.

Everything printed nice and looks good, but I noticed that the filament path and fitting holes in the splitter and extruder housings are a bit more oval than round. Like they are slightly "smooshed".

I am able to run filament through them, but it doesn't seem to be as "smooth" running it through as I'm thinking it should be.

I've never had any issues before with Prusa parts or anything else I've printed with the printer.

Has anyone else ever run into this? I don't want to run a drill bit though them, at least not on the splitter for sure, as I don't want to chance messing up the filament path.

The large pad with the ship builder.

Is there any way stock or with mods to get it to sink farther down into the ground, like almost level or just a little higher than the ground?

It's nice to have but no matter where or how I try to place it, it's always way too high. Always too many flights of stairs to get up and down.

Been using the program for a while now and do like it, but the one thing that bugs me is the "waiting for network" bit every time I reboot the PC.

I don't always have my internet on and it's kind of annoying that I need to turn it on just so the program will start.