I have a 2020 model 3P. I took it for inspection before the extended service agreement expires. The original warranty has already expired. The tech found a slight crack in the bushing of the lower control arm. I filed a service request to replace the control arm. Tesla wants to charge me $275 for doing it.
Is that normal with Tesla extended service agreement. How much would the cost be w/o one.
I got my camping fridge from CarFrozen. It is a $269 unit for the Model Y. It is in the car and plugged in. Set it to 37 F. Want to see how much it drains the battery on the car when it hits the desired temperature.
UPDATE: I ran the fridge for 14 hours and 41 minutes and the car only lost 4% of its charge. The fridge was at 82 degrees F when I plugged it in the rear 12 volt power source and went down to 30 F and then maintained at 35-37 F overnight.
I have the tent. I have the mattress for sleeping inside the rear of the Y. I have a cot for my partner. I have a sub trunk fridge on order. Soon we will go camping.
I took my 2026 Model Y Premium AWD up to the Lake Arrowhead area this past Saturday and thought the efficiency numbers were interesting enough to share, particularly the huge difference between climbing the mountain and coming back down.
A few details about how I drove the trip:
Entire trip:
7 drives
168.26 miles driven
177.77 rated miles used
39.05 kWh consumed
232 Wh/mi average
94.65% overall efficiency
3 hours 52 minutes driving
Average temperature: 91.4°F
The mountain portion really shows what elevation does to EV efficiency.
Going up the mountain:
71.17 miles
20.5 kWh
288 Wh/mi
93.45 rated miles used
76.2% efficiency
Average speed: 50 mph
Max speed: 67 mph
Elevation gain: approximately 5,700 ft
Outside temperature: 91.2°F
Coming back down:
81.75 miles
Only 12.5 kWh
154 Wh/mi
Only 57.29 rated miles used
142.7% efficiency
Average speed: 51 mph
Max speed: 67 mph
Elevation loss: approximately 5,118 ft
Outside temperature: 98.7°F
What impressed me most was the return trip. Despite driving almost 82 miles, the car used only 12.5 kWh. The long descent and regenerative braking dropped consumption to just 154 Wh/mi.
The uphill and downhill legs also make an interesting comparison because average speeds were virtually identical: 50 mph going up and 51 mph coming down. Yet consumption dropped from 288 Wh/mi uphill to 154 Wh/mi downhill — about a 47% reduction.
And when everything is combined—including roughly 15 miles of surface-street driving around Arrowhead—the Model Y averaged 232 Wh/mi over 168 miles.
I think the overall number is especially impressive considering this wasn’t an efficiency test where I crawled along with the climate control turned off. Freeway cruising was set at 65 mph on Autopilot, the A/C was running at 72–74°F, and outside temperatures averaged over 91°F.
For a relatively large AWD crossover making a round trip into the San Bernardino Mountains with more than 5,000 feet of elevation change, 232 Wh/mi over the entire 168-mile trip is pretty remarkable.
Hi,
I had a THSensormismatch error. I could not use the Climate keeper.
I noticed that after the recent Tesla summer update AND the Commander recent update.
So I removed the Commander from my 2026 early model Y AWD premium.
The error continued.
So I decided to reinstall the Tesla summer update and that fixed the problem.
I have two questions:
When I removed the Commander I noticed that there was a plug unplugged. See the picture. Is that supposed to be unplugged?
When I reinstalled the Commander and plugged that loose plug, the app communicated with the Commander and the buttons worked, but the GREEN LED was not lit or flickering like before.
Please help me with this. All the install information is for older Teslas or the newer M3 highland.
TIA.
Hi,
I have a mutual fund outside fidelity (Franklin Templeton) and it doesn’t auto sync no matter what it tried.
So, I entered the information manually as a taxable mutual fund. Now it doesn’t appear at all in the analysis tab under performance. Why is that? Is there a way to fix this?
Hi,
Is it possible to make the Nominal [when new] metric user defined? Currently, this is a hard-coded / fixed pack identification value stored in the BMS. It identifies the battery type/configuration (common for certain Model 3/Y Long Range / similar packs historically labeled around 82.1 kWh). It does not represent the actual measured capacity of any specific pack when it left the factory, nor is it a pure “design capacity” that every individual pack hits exactly.
Even the EPA did not get this number when Tesla tested a 2026 Model Y LR. The maximum the EPA was able to extract is 79.2 kWh and that was after running the car from 100% to dead.
Tessie App allows users to define this number or use the number from the newest cars in the fleet that matches that of the user.
Please consider allowing us to do that if possible.
The last update fixed the battery preheat on command from the S3xy buttons. Thanks 🙏
I own a U.S.-spec 2026 Tesla Model Y AWD and have been using Enhance Auto Commander to monitor the battery metrics. I have a few technical questions about how Commander obtains and interprets the battery data.
Commander reports the following values:
Nominal [when new]: 82.1 kWh (this has remained constant)
Nominal [when full]: 72.9 kWh (this has gradually decreased from 73.1 kWh)
Energy Buffer: 2.6 kWh (this has remained constant)
Battery degradation: 11.2%
Could you please clarify the following?
Are all of these values read directly from Tesla’s Battery Management System (BMS), or are any of them calculated by Commander?
Specifically, what Tesla BMS parameter does “Nominal [when new]” correspond to? Is it Tesla’s design capacity, factory nominal capacity, or another internal battery metric?
What exactly does “Nominal [when full]” represent? Does it include the Energy Buffer, or is the buffer reported separately?
Is the Energy Buffer included within the Nominal [when full] value? For example, if Nominal [when full] is 72.9 kWh and the Energy Buffer is 2.6 kWh, does that mean approximately 70.3 kWh is usable from 100% to 0% displayed state of charge, with the remaining 2.6 kWh available below 0% until the vehicle shuts down?
Is the 11.2% degradation displayed by Commander calculated simply as:
(Nominal [when full] ÷ Nominal [when new]) or is a different calculation used?
One reason I am asking is that I am trying to reconcile Commander’s battery degradation with Tesla’s displayed EPA-rated range.
My vehicle was originally rated at 327 EPA miles when new and now displays 308 EPA miles, which corresponds to approximately 5.8% range degradation. Commander, however, reports 11.2% battery degradation based on the kWh values.
Could you help me understand why these two degradation values differ so significantly? Is this because Tesla’s displayed EPA-rated range is based on a different battery capacity reference than the Nominal [when new] value reported by Commander, or is there another explanation?
I am trying to understand how these metrics relate to one another and would appreciate any technical details you can provide regarding the source and meaning of these values.
I am having a hard time figuring out how to use a S3XY button to pre-condition the battery on my 2026 model y. Has anyone figured it out? What did you do? What steps did you take?
I had a commander and four sexy buttons installed on my 2026 model Y Premium AWD. I used three buttons as follows:
I have a fourth button that I do not know what to do with. Any suggestions? Please share.
I have a two car garage for two Teslas. Would you allow FSD to park the Model Y on the right?
I would like to see what others are getting. My Tesla is a 2026 Model Y premium AWD.
Found this on the EPA fuel economy website. I also found the official EPA testing document that corresponds to it on the EPA website.
I went on a trip in SoCal from Cerritos to Solvang and back, 340 miles, and only paid 8.10$ to charge. The hotel charging for the night in Solvang was free (Tesla Destination Charger). And that $8.10 is even less because I have solar and charge during non-peak daytime hours. I just do not know how to calculate the cost so I assume I am paying the 0.26 cents for off peak charging.
The 2026 Model Y AWD Premium is a fantastic cruiser. Quite, comfortably, roomy (love the hatchback) and quick. Autopilot was amazing (I do not have/want FSD). Just locked it in at 65 mph and kept going.
At this point, anyone that drives anything else than EVs is simply wasting their money.
The only thing that pissed me off was traffic. I hate traffic. Grrrr 😖
Last post I only debadged the Tesla. This time I debadged everything and add a carbon fiber look. The shop that added the wrap told that glossy black on the fake light bar will easily scratch, so it is better to go with something else. Bright carbon fiber was the choice.
Tomorrow I am going to a shop to get this look. What do you think? That panel will be glossy black and will just pop when the lights are on.
Has anyone tried this panel wrap from Hansshow. I debadged my car and thinking of customising it with a panel wrap. I am looking at the carbon fiber wrap. My car is QuickSilver MYJ.
On the one hand keeping the dual motor will assuage people’s fears that it is indeed a dual motor even after they check the VIN and specs on the car screen. For some reason people want visual confirmation that it is AWD when/if I sell the car.
On the other hand, debadging the dual motor looks that much cleaner after I debadged the Tesla nameplate from the plastic bar.
I removed the Tesla badge off my MYJ. The badges were getting discolored (black coating flaking) after only one year on the car. I bought it use and they were just like that. Tesla will not cover them under warranty.
Be very very careful removing them. The plastic they are mounted on is very cheap quality. I managed to scratch mine but I touched the plastic up with a paint pen.