u/Pow3rTow3r
Since when did a SINGLE Chalupa become $6.19? Fast food prices are officially out of control.
I don't eat out much anymore. Between groceries and life in general, I’ve pretty much resorted to cooking at home non-stop just to save money. But today, after getting off work, I decided to treat myself and swing through Taco Bell for the first time in forever.
I pulled into the parking lot, placed a quick mobile order, and hopped into the drive-thru line. While sitting there waiting for the line to move, I started scrolling through the app menu, and my jaw honestly dropped.
A single Beef Chalupa Supreme is $6.19 now?! For ONE chalupa?! I didn't even end up ordering one today because of that price, but every time I have gotten a chalupa in the past, the shell has been dead cold, stiff, and stale. Even when I’ve explicitly asked for a fresh one, it still came out lukewarm at best. Remember when chalupa shells used to be fried to order, coming out piping hot, crispy, and fresh? Now they charge six bucks for a shell that's clearly been sitting in a holding bin for hours.
Out of curiosity, I kept browsing the app to see if there was any actual value left. It looks like the Luxe Boxes are basically the only reasonable option, but even that is hilarious when you look at the math. A Beefy 5-Layer Burrito is considered a "main" item for the Luxe Box, but if you buy it à la carte, it's $5.19!
I remember when the Beefy 5-Layer was an absolute staple on the Dollar Menu priced right around a buck when it first dropped. Now it's over five dollars for a tortilla stuffed almost entirely with beans, sour cream, and nacho cheese. Where is the actual beef?! You get maybe one skimpy, single-ounce portion scoop of seasoned beef hidden at the very bottom, meaning 90% of the burrito is just filler. If you're charging over five bucks for a burrito, at least give us a reasonable serving of actual protein instead of a smear of meat paste wrapped in three layers of warm carb-heavy filler.
What gets me even more flabbergasted is looking in my rearview mirror and seeing the drive-thru line literally wrapped all the way around the building. People are happily idling their cars for 20 minutes, ready to drop $15 to $20 a person on lukewarm, low-protein slop that used to cost $4 total.
It’s completely wild to me that Taco Bell, the historical king of cheap late-night food, is charging sit-down restaurant prices for basic fast food, and people are still lining up around the block for it. I guess this was a quick, necessary reminder of why I stick to cooking at home these days.
Friend of mine just picked up a M64. He wants to buy a red "funtastic" SummerCart64. Which would be a good choice from AliExpress?
I bought a purple one from EpicJoy store when they first came out. He's insistent on "funtastic" red and found the following on AliExpress:
https://a.aliexpress.com/\_mqV6eBl
Would this be reliable?
Fed Employee Dilemma: Dentist "purging" federal patients due to FEDVIP/FEHB coordination hassle?
I’m looking for advice or shared experiences from fellow federal employees regarding an ongoing billing nightmare.
I’m enrolled in the Foreign Service Benefit Plan (FSBP/Aetna) for health and GEHA Dental High for dental. My dentist has frequently cycled in and out of the FSBP network. They are currently out-of-network with FSBP, but in-network with my secondary, GEHA.
The Dilemma:
The dentist is billing me for the "gap"—the difference between their full fee and what FSBP (primary) paid—while ignoring their in-network status with GEHA (secondary). I’ve had conversations with the staff where they’ve mentioned they have other federal clients, and I’m getting the distinct feeling they are trying to "purge" their federal employee patients.
It seems they view the coordination process (billing the primary, waiting for the EOB, then billing the secondary) as too much administrative hassle, especially since GEHA is comprehensive and they likely can't get the "excess" fees they want out of me once that secondary coverage kicks in.
My questions for the community:
Has anyone else dealt with a provider who clearly doesn't want federal employees? How do you handle a practice that treats the coordination of benefits like an inconvenience they’d rather avoid by balance-billing the patient instead?
Strategies for the "Secondary" Contract: When a practice is out-of-network with your primary (FEHB) but in-network with your secondary (FEDVIP), have you successfully forced them to honor the secondary network rates for the entire bill?
FEHB/Dental Overlap: I’m realizing the built-in dental component of my FEHB plan is the root cause of this coordination mess. Is there any way to avoid this? Are there any FEHB medical plans that are strictly medical with zero dental component so I can stop this coordination-of-benefits cycle?
Anyone deal with constantly or any advice on how you navigate this would be a huge help.
Fed Employee Dilemma: Dentist "purging" federal patients due to FEDVIP/FEHB coordination hassle?
I’m looking for advice or shared experiences from fellow federal employees regarding an ongoing billing nightmare.
I’m enrolled in the Foreign Service Benefit Plan (FSBP/Aetna) for health and GEHA Dental High for dental. My dentist has frequently cycled in and out of the FSBP network. They are currently out-of-network with FSBP, but in-network with my secondary, GEHA.
The Dilemma:
The dentist is billing me for the "gap"—the difference between their full fee and what FSBP (primary) paid—while ignoring their in-network status with GEHA (secondary). I’ve had conversations with the staff where they’ve mentioned they have other federal clients, and I’m getting the distinct feeling they are trying to "purge" their federal employee patients.
It seems they view the coordination process (billing the primary, waiting for the EOB, then billing the secondary) as too much administrative hassle, especially since GEHA is comprehensive and they likely can't get the "excess" fees they want out of me once that secondary coverage kicks in.
My questions for the community:
Has anyone else dealt with a provider who clearly doesn't want federal employees? How do you handle a practice that treats the coordination of benefits like an inconvenience they’d rather avoid by balance-billing the patient instead?
Strategies for the "Secondary" Contract: When a practice is out-of-network with your primary (FEHB) but in-network with your secondary (FEDVIP), have you successfully forced them to honor the secondary network rates for the entire bill?
FEHB/Dental Overlap: I’m realizing the built-in dental component of my FEHB plan is the root cause of this coordination mess. Is there any way to avoid this? Are there any FEHB medical plans that are strictly medical with zero dental component so I can stop this coordination-of-benefits cycle?
Anyone deal with constantly or any advice on how you navigate this would be a huge help.
Can anyone help me understand what I am dealing with here?
I was going for a walk and spotted this TV on side of road. Scrapper cut the power cord. I took it home and replaced the cut power cord right way with solder and heat shrink tubing. After fixing power cord, I powered on the CRT and noticed convergence issues in upper left hand corner. I'll upload a photo of the convergence issue in the comments section of this post since Reddit will not me to upload a photo if I've already uploaded a video apparantly. The CRT is also making a very loud buzzing noise which I read could be that the deflection yoke itself needs to be physically adjusted to change how the electron beams bend at the outer limits of the tube?
I also read this TV is a hot chassis CRT, whatever that means, which makes me even more fearful about doing anything when it's powered on.
Thoughts?
I f%$&#$ got him boys/gals!
Took me literal hours over a period of four evenings after I got my kids down for bed. I followed this guide:
https://www.zeldadungeon.net/wiki/Ocarina\_of\_Time\_Fishing\_Guide
I realized I was holding A and down on the joystick while trying to opposite direction the fish was facing when I was supposed to tilt joystick in the direct the fish was facing the whole time.
Literally biggest video game accomplishment of my life! Lol.
I need some help sourcing a replacement volume control potentiometer for my Roland MA-8 monitor.
I aquired some Roland MA-8 stereo monitors/speakers to go alongside my Sony PVM1342Q and 1942Q for my retro gaming hobby.
I bought the speakers on Facebook Marketplace for $40 and suspected a control knob/potentiameter had been either been replaced because inside of he box for the speakers was a small electrostatic bag containing control knob/potentimeter.
I came to realize the volume control knob/potentimeter on the one monitor was wobbly. I have a little bit of electronics knowledge and have been learning soldering in order to mod video game consoles so I figured I'd take these apart and see if it's wobbly because of solder holding the legs of the potentiometer to the circuit board is cracked or something. So I took it apart and that did not appear to be the case. The solder is not cracked and the legs are strong. The wobble is coming from the "spinny" part of the shaft of the potentiameter.
I noticed the volume control potentimeter is blue in color and has a marking on the side rhat reads something to the effect of, "3850KΩX3" but the last digit ("3") is hardly recognizable so not 100% certain what it reads. The other three potentiometers are green in color and labeled, "B50K". They also have the tops marked with a black straight line. The last three potentiometers match the POT in the baggie that was included with the speakers.
noticed in anothers post of the Roland's MA-8's on Reddit all of his pots were green like the last three in the picture.
So my guess is the POT was replaced for some reason and they someone decided to keep the old POT. appear to be easily fixable but it still works. But I'd like to replace it but I'm having a really hard time finding a replacement. Don't really know what,where, to look? Can anyone offer me a helping hand to figure this out in terms?
I'm 269 albums ripped in EAC deep and just now realized the UPC code of the ALBUM and the catalog number on the spine of the CD's I've been entering into the "comment" field is not automatically recorded anywhere including in the log file or the .cue file. Anyway to automatically record this info?
reddit.comThese changed for the worst. I'm not there only one right?
The are thinner and now putting what I suspect is round "rice crisps" in lieu of more granola.
How should I rip these?
I usually rip multi disc albums like this:
Disc 1 contains tracks 1-10. Disc 2 contains tracks 1-4.
I rip disc 1, then rip disc 2 with "continue from last track number".
Then I manually add the music, log file, and .cue file into a folder titled, "CD 1". I then add the music, log file, and .cue file into a folder titled, "CD 2".
Should I just rip these as individual albums?
I have a Game Gear Deluxe Carry-All Carrying Case. The plastic insert is warped and cracked in some places and has seen better days. Has anyone designed a replacement? Any suggestions? Gun case foam?
reddit.comHelp me understand why Star Wars Episode 1 is hated by Star Wars fans? I thought it embodied the spirit of the original trilogy well! Podracing, goofy Jar Jar, loved it as a kid, and don't hate it now.
reddit.comAnyone else not bother posting anything on Reddit anymore?
I barely bother posting anymore because it feels like I'm walking on eggshells. Every time I create a thread, it gets removed and relegated to a megathread. I hate megathreads because nobody reads them, and dropping a post there feels like shouting into the void.
Savage Raven FissionGrip or Satisfye ZenGrip 2?
Savage Raven FissionGrip or Satisfye ZenGrip 2?
Has anyone personally had their hands on both the Savage Raven FissionGrip and the Satisfye ZenGrip 2?
I've used the Satisfye ZenGrip Pro for the original Switch and OLED and LOVED it!
I purchased the dbrand Killswitch travel case from Best Buy and the Savage Raven FissionGrip from Amazon. I purchased those because I could try them and return them at Best Buy or Amazon if I didn't like them and get all my money back. I've already determined that I'm going to be returning the dbrand Killswitch because it's grips aren't angled.
So far I'm REALLY liking the value and comfort of the Savage Raven FissionGrip but can't help but wonder if the comfort of the Satisfye ZenGrip 2 is any better?
If I order the Satisfye ZenGrip 2 from their website (only way to buy as far as I know), I can't do a return if I don't like it.
So mainly curious to hear from people who have had their hands on both the Savage Raven FissionGrip and the Satisfye ZenGrip 2 as to which one was most comfortable?
Savage Raven FissionGrip or Satisfye ZenGrip 2?
Savage Raven FissionGrip or Satisfye ZenGrip 2?
Has anyone personally had their hands on both the Savage Raven FissionGrip and the Satisfye ZenGrip 2?
I've used the Satisfye ZenGrip Pro for the original Switch and OLED and LOVED it!
I purchased the dbrand Killswitch travel case from Best Buy and the Savage Raven FissionGrip from Amazon. I purchased those because I could try them and return them at Best Buy or Amazon if I didn't like them and get all my money back. I've already determined that I'm going to be returning the dbrand Killswitch because it's grips aren't angled.
So far I'm REALLY liking the value and comfort of the Savage Raven FissionGrip but can't help but wonder if the comfort of the Satisfye ZenGrip 2 is any better?
If I order the Satisfye ZenGrip 2 from their website (only way to buy as far as I know), I can't do a return if I don't like it.
So mainly curious to hear from people who have had their hands on both the Savage Raven FissionGrip and the Satisfye ZenGrip 2 as to which one was most comfortable?
Would you return, Part 2?
https://www.reddit.com/r/Soundbars/s/84ZCGR9Mq6
Previously posted. Please read.
Looks like Amazon/Woot sent me a Q990F/ZC (Canadian Market). I'm located in the USA.
Samsungs website still has the Q990F/ZA on sale for $847.83 after tax.
Should I return the Q990F/ZC on Amazon and repurchase the Q990F/ZA on Samsungs website?
My uncle was throwing this stuff away. I grabbed it. What am I looking at here? Is this junk? Should I also throw it away?
Can I rip 4K UHD'S with this drive? MakeMKV says "Status Enabled", however, the drive currently only reads DVD's and standard Blu-Rays. 4K UHD discs cannot be read. Can flash/patch this drive?
Would you return for new?
I ordered the Samsung Q990F "Refurbished-Excellent" from Amazon for $771.12 after tax. It's set up currently. Box is in rough shape but product works great I updated the firmware. I see Samsung now has it for $847.83 after tax with first responders discount. Is it worth returning the "Refurbished - Excellent" soundbar with a 90 day refund/replacement policy and buying brand new from Samsung for an extra $76.71 more?
I did purchase the refurbished soundbar with my Chase credit card which supposedly extends warranties for one year on refurbished products from Amazon but not sure I'd bet on that.