u/RP343

Apologies for the vague title but I really don’t know how to describe this. It seems to happen randomly as I’ve had at least 2-3 other models do this and require me to basically just re-run the print. Sucks that I can’t leave a longer print alone though in fear of it doing this and ruining it.

BambuLab H2D

Error I’m receiving once print stops: “Extruder change failed; please refer to the assistant”

Printing in PA6CF and that’s it. No different support filament or anything that would even require an extruder change. Also, after print has stopped, I can easily switch extruders through the menu. My initial searches said it could be the nozzle blocker getting jammed, but it doesn’t seem to be. And again, why is it even trying to switch nozzles on a single material print.

As you can see in the video, between every layer or so, it starts to go back and tap the plate with the nozzle on the same spot. After that it goes home and flushes some PA6CF then proceeds to print another layer. As far as I can tell, I’m not seeing anywhere in the slicer or G-code why it’s doing this at all.

Hello,

I’m seeing conflicting information on two separate pages of the BambuLab documentation regarding printing filaments like PA6CF, PPA-CF, PPS-CF, etc. through the filament buffer on an H2 series.

Example 1 (https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/filament/petcf_ppacf) shows that we should be using the TPU bypass inlet on the back of the H2D to avoid the buffer.

Example 2 (https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/manual/PPA-PPS-printing-guide) seems to show the filament just being loaded through the buffer no problem.

I understand that we should prioritize the left extruder to avoid the severe bend of the PTFE tubes in certain positions, and I’ve been printing PA6CF for 50 hours or so altogether like that. But I’m just now realizing that not only did I not follow the guidance of releasing the PTFE tube from the cable chain and rotating it above the toolhead (which from what I can tell may or may not be too necessary on PA6CF since it’s the most flexible of the brittle filaments) but I also have been running it as an external spool through the buffer like any other filament.

For the most part it’s printed fine, though I have had occasional bouts of the print refusing to proceed for more than 5 minutes due to a detected spool jam that was really just the PTFE tube trying to bend in on itself and making the resistance too high, but this can be remedied with very specific angles and cut lengths of the PTFE tube.

What I’m wondering is: have I been causing damage to my filament buffer by running PA6CF through it? Would I be causing damage if I ran PPA-CF or PPS-CF through it?

H2D Left Nozzle (SUNLU PA6CF) / Right Nozzle (Overture ASA)

Hello, I’m attempting to use ASA as a support interface for PA6CF as I saw others online report success. I’m finding that as early as the first extrusion of ASA on the Prime Tower, the ASA has issue adhering to the PA6CF (I get that’s kind of the point, but it seems excessive and not at all like the results others have had). Unfortunately, it very quickly ruins the print since it starts peeling at the edges almost immediately and the nozzle comes and picks it back up on its next pass, leading to spaghetti. It also seems messy when it comes to actually laying the support interface itself since it drags it across the model on its way to the next support tree.

Mostly, I’m using the profiles in Orca Slicer for both filaments, though the PA6CF has been slowed down significantly and prints at 295C. The ASA was at 260C and I attempted to raise it but I believe it got a little worse so I’m currently trying to test again at 240C, and if that doesn’t work, I’m considering lowering its speed, but it’s technically already printing at Overture’s minimum of 30mm/s. Bed and Chamber are 60-65C respectively.

Has anyone had any experience tuning this combo? I initially tried PETG but it seemed a little too eager to fuse to the PA6CF to make it worthwhile. Would appreciate any recommendations!

PA6-CF Printed rails down with mostly 300Blkfde settings, except top/bottom z distance which I had to tune to .24 at .15 layer height. The suggested .19 would not come off and mostly made a mess. .24 allowed it to come off but I’m wondering if this is normal for the rails to look so full of gaps. I don’t think there’s an issue with blind width or anything, the rest of the print is immaculate.

Don’t need a direct answer necessarily, just point me in the right direction if you’ve got the time.

Hello,

I’m wondering if anybody here has had really stubborn dead trigger issues with the Arc-Fire V2? The version I have in particular is the 0-45-90 but I’m not sure if that has anything to do with it.

I posted not too long ago in the Kuna subreddit but over the past couple of weeks, I just cannot get this thing to function. Definitely not a problem with the Nexus lower on the Kuna either since it behaves identically in 2 other lowers. I’ve also switched out all of the small parts like springs, pins, disconnect, etc. but nothing has changed.

I also don’t think it’s a user error issue or installation issue since I’ve watched their video on it for hours at this point probably, and I’ve installed and function tested the V1 over the past week on the same lowers just fine. I’m following the exact same process, but I just cannot figure out where it’s going wrong.

The issue: The included trigger is simply dead in all safety positions. It feels identical to being on safe regardless of where it is. I know that sounds like a cam installation issue, since I’ve been speaking with the support staff at ASdesigns, but again, I’ve made sure I’m doing it just as I do the V1.

In addition, my other Hoffman cut triggers from varying sources (GMR, FuddArms, etc) bind as well, though to a lesser degree. Some function in semi or ARC, others fire on safe, etc. I tried sanding the V2 trigger slightly, but I’m still in doubt that this is even the issue because it’s already the lowest cut out of the other triggers including the V1 Arc-Fire trigger.

I’ve tried the V1 trigger on the V2 Arc as well, but that just results in weird behavior. If I remember correctly, sometimes in semi, when letting go of the trigger, the hammer fully releases instead of just resetting off the disconnect. I’ve also found that once I’ve attached the upper and function test then, in semi, the safety knocks itself into 3rd position when releasing the bolt back home.

Again, none of these issues seem present with the Arc Fire V1, or even the Atrius I have for that matter, so I really don’t know could be going on at this point.

Thanks for reading the wall of text, I’d appreciate any input. I also filmed a video of the V1 and V2 installations for ASdesigns but I’ll drop it here if I can as well. Unsure if the rules will let you, but hopefully you can see me making the most obvious, fixable mistake.

Hello again all,

Troubleshooting a bunch of configurations for the Nexus with Arc-Fire V1 and V2. Unfortunately, V2 still not working and on pause until I can get a new detent bar sent out from ASDesigns.

In all this assembling and tearing down though, I’ve noticed a gap in between the Kuna upper and the Nexus lower. At first, I thought I observed that the gap was not there before functions testing, but I’ve taken it apart and put it back together according to the videos, and it seems that gap is just always there now. Would you say this is normal? Can anybody else confirm if they’re seeing this on their units?

Asking because I know it’s mentioned in the Nexus trip installation video that a gap could mean it is incorrectly installed, such as the Arc Fire lever not being hooked around the trip, but this passes dry functions testing on the Arc Fire V1. Appreciate it!

Hello all, been bashing my head on this for the last couple of days but I cannot get this Arc Fire V2 45-90 to pass the function test on just the lower. Again, this is for just the lower, I haven’t even gotten as far as functions testing with the upper.

I don’t know if it’s sleep deprivation but I’ve tried 3 triggers and not one of them has worked. First was a cassette trigger modified by GMR to work with super safeties. This one was a shot in the dark so I wasn’t expecting it to play nice from the beginning, and definitely was not resetting. I think this one didn’t bind, but I want to say “safe” wasn’t actually safe too. It was also loose within the lower even with the anti-walk pins tightened so I didn’t try too hard on that.

Next up I tried another trigger from GMR I believe, just a regular single stage with the hoffman cut, and I typically prefer straight triggers like this so I had high hopes for this one. Unfortunately, it also refused to reset, and the functions tests I was seeing online such as the lever being loose in 3rd position simply was not the case for me. Semi seemed to bind quite a lot and required too much force to get the hammer to drop. This one felt like it could genuinely work if I took off some material from the top rounded corner, but I’m not too sure on how much to take off considering it’s already at Hoffman cut, so I figured I’ll verify first if the cut on the trigger that came with the Arc worked, and then I’d just try to replicate the cut on that for the straight trigger.

Come to find out, the trigger that came with the Arc Fire binds the most out of all the triggers. Absolutely cannot get the hammer to drop in any position. Selector feels like it’s installed correctly between all 3 of these and I can freely switch positions with a healthy amount of feedback from it. But each trigger has various degrees of binding and it’s striking me as unbelievable that all of these are out of spec for the Arc Fire, especially the trigger that came with it.

I’m hoping some of you will review the post and pictures and call me out for making the dumbest mistake I’m not seeing with regards to trigger or hammer install, but I’ve uninstalled and reinstalled it 4-5 times between all of the triggers so I’m doubtful. Nonetheless, I’d appreciate any input.

Picture 1 shows the straight trigger I had hoped to use with the Hoffman cut. 2 shows the FCG (Arc Fire trigger) installed with the Arc Fire installed as well. 3 is the same without the selector installed and hammer dropped. Worth noting here that all triggers “work” as expected before installing the selector. 4 is with the hammer back, no selector. 5 is with just the trigger and springs. I can provide any additional pictures if you need.

Hello, reaching out to see mainly if this is indicative of a larger issue on my new printer (Bambu Lab H2D). With less than 100 hours total of print time, I’m fairly new to printing but I’m slowly getting familiar with the process and settings. One of my favorites to take advantage of has been the support interface process with the dual nozzles.

Since the beginning, I’ve been printing PLA (Sunlu PLA +2.0) with their PETG as a support interface filament. It’s gone really well for the most part and I don’t really struggle at all to remove the supports. Using Bambu Studio with pretty much the same filament settings as the Generic PLA/PETG profiles.

A couple of days ago I had my first error on the print where really early into the print, the AI detected a nozzle clog and paused the print. I went in there and checked and didn’t actually see a clog, but I did see some a lot of stringing from the white PLA +2.0 I’ve been using. It wasn’t bad enough to ruin the print, but I cleaned up what had been dragged across the plate and continued. The print finished great in the morning, but I took a closer look at what was going on behind the silicone sock just to make sure there wasn’t an actual clog starting. The nozzle tips has some build up near the metal heat shielding (pictures in my previous post if you’d like to see) and at the recommendation of the Bambu subreddit, I cleaned it off with some brass brushes after hearing the nozzles to 250C.

Fast forward to my next print today, a Skadis shelf I have printed twice now with no issues, and I went to print 3 in one go. For some reason, 2 of the 4 hooks on one of the shelves broke off and were flung off the plate. The other shelves completed great. I shrugged this off as a fluke considering only one of the shelves did this, but I’ll include a picture of it so you can get the idea. Unfortunately, my next print after that also had a problem so now I’m starting to think something may actually be going on with the printer.

Finally, I go to print another Skadis accessory that I’ve also printed 2 variations of before and used the same exact settings, which will be included in the photos below. Basically just the balanced strength profile with the support settings tweaked to encompass less harsh angles, just to make sure the holes don’t sag where they will meet a peg. The print is oriented in a way that the hooks are the initial layers, and therefore most of the print is floating on a best of tree supports. Again, same settings were used in the previous copies of this model, and there was no issue before. 1 hour into the print, I can see in the live view that for some reason, the furthest corner of the print has lifted off the support interface. Upon closer inspection after the print finished, you can see how much this warped the part. I suspect the really thin support interface may not have held onto the PLA +2.0, which is for the most part the goal, but I don’t see why this would cause the PLA to lift and warp. I will mention that this is the thinnest support interface I’ve seen so far, with most of my others being less “grid/mesh” like and more like solid layers, but I don’t believe I changed any settings that would change the thickness of the support interfaces.

Overall, still usable, but so far in my last 3 prints, I’ve had issues, when my first 10 or so were flawless. Therefore I’m wondering if it’s some bigger issue creeping in or any big maintenance items I’m missing causing this, but again, I’m less than 100 hours in print time so it feels a little quick for this.

For context, I don’t believe my filament is the issue since it’s been printing the same models pretty well before these last few times. I’ve also been pretty strict about keeping it dry. The AMS 2 reports an average of 10% RH with 4 spools of PLA in there, and for opened spools not in the AMS, they are immediately stored with desiccant in an airtight container with hygrometers that also read an average of 10% RH as well. The PETG could be the issue since I have that on an exterior spool, but would it really collect that much moisture in a climate controlled Phoenix, AZ garage? That also wouldn’t explain the PLA +2.0 being the one with the issues in breaking/warping or stringing.

Anyways, sorry about the book. If you made it this far, I really appreciate you reading.