u/RP343

Hello again all,

Troubleshooting a bunch of configurations for the Nexus with Arc-Fire V1 and V2. Unfortunately, V2 still not working and on pause until I can get a new detent bar sent out from ASDesigns.

In all this assembling and tearing down though, I’ve noticed a gap in between the Kuna upper and the Nexus lower. At first, I thought I observed that the gap was not there before functions testing, but I’ve taken it apart and put it back together according to the videos, and it seems that gap is just always there now. Would you say this is normal? Can anybody else confirm if they’re seeing this on their units?

Asking because I know it’s mentioned in the Nexus trip installation video that a gap could mean it is incorrectly installed, such as the Arc Fire lever not being hooked around the trip, but this passes dry functions testing on the Arc Fire V1. Appreciate it!

Hello all, been bashing my head on this for the last couple of days but I cannot get this Arc Fire V2 45-90 to pass the function test on just the lower. Again, this is for just the lower, I haven’t even gotten as far as functions testing with the upper.

I don’t know if it’s sleep deprivation but I’ve tried 3 triggers and not one of them has worked. First was a cassette trigger modified by GMR to work with super safeties. This one was a shot in the dark so I wasn’t expecting it to play nice from the beginning, and definitely was not resetting. I think this one didn’t bind, but I want to say “safe” wasn’t actually safe too. It was also loose within the lower even with the anti-walk pins tightened so I didn’t try too hard on that.

Next up I tried another trigger from GMR I believe, just a regular single stage with the hoffman cut, and I typically prefer straight triggers like this so I had high hopes for this one. Unfortunately, it also refused to reset, and the functions tests I was seeing online such as the lever being loose in 3rd position simply was not the case for me. Semi seemed to bind quite a lot and required too much force to get the hammer to drop. This one felt like it could genuinely work if I took off some material from the top rounded corner, but I’m not too sure on how much to take off considering it’s already at Hoffman cut, so I figured I’ll verify first if the cut on the trigger that came with the Arc worked, and then I’d just try to replicate the cut on that for the straight trigger.

Come to find out, the trigger that came with the Arc Fire binds the most out of all the triggers. Absolutely cannot get the hammer to drop in any position. Selector feels like it’s installed correctly between all 3 of these and I can freely switch positions with a healthy amount of feedback from it. But each trigger has various degrees of binding and it’s striking me as unbelievable that all of these are out of spec for the Arc Fire, especially the trigger that came with it.

I’m hoping some of you will review the post and pictures and call me out for making the dumbest mistake I’m not seeing with regards to trigger or hammer install, but I’ve uninstalled and reinstalled it 4-5 times between all of the triggers so I’m doubtful. Nonetheless, I’d appreciate any input.

Picture 1 shows the straight trigger I had hoped to use with the Hoffman cut. 2 shows the FCG (Arc Fire trigger) installed with the Arc Fire installed as well. 3 is the same without the selector installed and hammer dropped. Worth noting here that all triggers “work” as expected before installing the selector. 4 is with the hammer back, no selector. 5 is with just the trigger and springs. I can provide any additional pictures if you need.

Hello, reaching out to see mainly if this is indicative of a larger issue on my new printer (Bambu Lab H2D). With less than 100 hours total of print time, I’m fairly new to printing but I’m slowly getting familiar with the process and settings. One of my favorites to take advantage of has been the support interface process with the dual nozzles.

Since the beginning, I’ve been printing PLA (Sunlu PLA +2.0) with their PETG as a support interface filament. It’s gone really well for the most part and I don’t really struggle at all to remove the supports. Using Bambu Studio with pretty much the same filament settings as the Generic PLA/PETG profiles.

A couple of days ago I had my first error on the print where really early into the print, the AI detected a nozzle clog and paused the print. I went in there and checked and didn’t actually see a clog, but I did see some a lot of stringing from the white PLA +2.0 I’ve been using. It wasn’t bad enough to ruin the print, but I cleaned up what had been dragged across the plate and continued. The print finished great in the morning, but I took a closer look at what was going on behind the silicone sock just to make sure there wasn’t an actual clog starting. The nozzle tips has some build up near the metal heat shielding (pictures in my previous post if you’d like to see) and at the recommendation of the Bambu subreddit, I cleaned it off with some brass brushes after hearing the nozzles to 250C.

Fast forward to my next print today, a Skadis shelf I have printed twice now with no issues, and I went to print 3 in one go. For some reason, 2 of the 4 hooks on one of the shelves broke off and were flung off the plate. The other shelves completed great. I shrugged this off as a fluke considering only one of the shelves did this, but I’ll include a picture of it so you can get the idea. Unfortunately, my next print after that also had a problem so now I’m starting to think something may actually be going on with the printer.

Finally, I go to print another Skadis accessory that I’ve also printed 2 variations of before and used the same exact settings, which will be included in the photos below. Basically just the balanced strength profile with the support settings tweaked to encompass less harsh angles, just to make sure the holes don’t sag where they will meet a peg. The print is oriented in a way that the hooks are the initial layers, and therefore most of the print is floating on a best of tree supports. Again, same settings were used in the previous copies of this model, and there was no issue before. 1 hour into the print, I can see in the live view that for some reason, the furthest corner of the print has lifted off the support interface. Upon closer inspection after the print finished, you can see how much this warped the part. I suspect the really thin support interface may not have held onto the PLA +2.0, which is for the most part the goal, but I don’t see why this would cause the PLA to lift and warp. I will mention that this is the thinnest support interface I’ve seen so far, with most of my others being less “grid/mesh” like and more like solid layers, but I don’t believe I changed any settings that would change the thickness of the support interfaces.

Overall, still usable, but so far in my last 3 prints, I’ve had issues, when my first 10 or so were flawless. Therefore I’m wondering if it’s some bigger issue creeping in or any big maintenance items I’m missing causing this, but again, I’m less than 100 hours in print time so it feels a little quick for this.

For context, I don’t believe my filament is the issue since it’s been printing the same models pretty well before these last few times. I’ve also been pretty strict about keeping it dry. The AMS 2 reports an average of 10% RH with 4 spools of PLA in there, and for opened spools not in the AMS, they are immediately stored with desiccant in an airtight container with hygrometers that also read an average of 10% RH as well. The PETG could be the issue since I have that on an exterior spool, but would it really collect that much moisture in a climate controlled Phoenix, AZ garage? That also wouldn’t explain the PLA +2.0 being the one with the issues in breaking/warping or stringing.

Anyways, sorry about the book. If you made it this far, I really appreciate you reading.