I’m ready to pull the trigger on a Nevo - but I really want the lighter fabric travel case (you can only get it in the power case - ugh). Looks like the Nevo is about 6mm thicker than the series 8 I’m upgrading from. Does anyone have the Nevo with either a series 8 or 9 case. Does it fit in ok to travel with?
Are there any aftermarket cases people like? The series 8 case fits perfectly in my toiletry bag.
Thanks.
A year ago I gifted my 2021 MYLR to my daughter and her husband. It was saying it had about a 300 mi range at that time. Now - a year later it’s down to around 230!!!!
I know there was problems with the 21 batteries, is this an indication they’re heading in that direction?
Can Tesla do a remote check of the batteries and tell us what %’age we’re at? If so, what type of service do I ask for in the app?
I was looking at the warranties, and I know it’s 8 yrs or 120k - but mentioned something about 70%. Does going lower than 70 trigger a warranty repair?
One thing they do different than we did is that they almost always charge with a 110 outlet and a rare supercharger visit. Almost all of their drives are local except for a 250mi move they just completed. I think they stick to the 80% number since they do mostly local. For the big trip they may have temporarily bumped it up.
HEEEELLLLPPPP!
I’ve been doing a lot of printing with Petg Basic (black) recently as I’m building Will’s AMS Stacker (3 tier version).
I’ve been getting these strange marks on the bottom of the prints. I’m hoping they are visible in the picture. To me they look like someone rode a bike with dirty tires all over it. 😜.
For this piece, I had just removed it from the printer and the marks were there.
I can’t image what I’m doing wrong. I also had just cleaned the plate (I used isopropyl alcohol since I never touch the print plate).
What am I doing wrong?
Thanks
So I was watching a long print since it was about to transition from one spool to another. I wanted to be able to watch it detach from the spool and make sure it came off cleanly. In the past - if the tape came off with the spool, I would be there to cut the end off and let the AMS do its thing.
But - I got distracted enough that I missed it coming off.
So the tape got stuck, the AMS decided to rewind the filament and try again. This time, I tried to catch it, but the tape got stuck again. I tried to pull up on the filament so I could cut it and the tape came off in my hands. I wasn’t sure if a little bit of tape stayed with the end so I nervously watched the whole thing go through (not knowing if I should stop it).
All ended well and at the end of the filament, the AMS switched to the other roll just fine.
But what do I do in the future? I looked at the Filament Cutter/saver thing - but general consensus seems to be it’s more trouble than it’s worth. I’ve also seen those snake head feeder things, but I’ve also seen mixed feedback (rubbing on filament and making dust, getting stuck on the side of the spool, etc).
While I’d love the AMS to just give up and switch to the other roll, what I’m really concerned with is that tape getting pulled down into the feeder and causing tons of trouble.
Is there something I could add to the AMS that won’t cause other issues.
For reference I print with both Bambu and Sunlu filament (PLA or PETG). The spool I had this issue on was a Bambu PLA Petg Basic - so I’m assuming it’s a somewhat new roll given it’s a new product.
Thoughts?
TLDR; When you use the AMS on the X2D combo, you cannot switch the filament buffer output PTFE’s to different nozzles. It is basically hardcoded that the upper output ONLY goes to the Left extruder/nozzle and the lower ONLY goes to the Right extruder/nozzle.
So….
I was going to do my first multi-color print on the X2D and the slicer recommended that the primary color (white) be on the Left nozzle and the two much smaller secondary colors (red & blue) be on the Right.
Since I had them set up the other way around, I needed to switch my AMS to be on the right nozzle. Lazy me says - “It’s easier to just switch the PTFE’s at the extruder inputs (top right on back of printer).
Well then the AMS would NOT LOAD the filament. It would just STOP at the input side of the filament buffer and throw an error (picture attached)
I went round and round and round trying to figure this out.
- I tried different slots in the AMS - nothing
- I tried re-seating the PTFE tubes on the input side of the buffer (where the feed was stopping) - didn’t help.
- I tried to manually feed it through (disconnected the AMS and used a spare piece of filament) - went through fine.
- I noticed that when loading a new roll of filament, the AMS would sometimes push the filament all the way THROUGH the filament buffer (WTF!)
- I tried to re-auto config the AMS / nozzle setup. I can’t remember what it did, but obviously didn’t fix the problem.
- I used one of my AMS’s from the P2S to see if it was an AMS problem. - still failed.
Then I opened a ticket with support and they were only mildly helpful. Sent them the logs and pictures - they mentioned that I may have had the Filament Switch accessory installed incorrectly. I didn’t have a filament switch as you can see in the pictures - but this foreshadowed what the problem was.
I (being the bonehead I am), after staring at the back of the printer for what seemed like hours, finally focused on the printing on the left side of the filament buffer. It clearly says “Left Nozzle” on the top input and “Right Nozzle” on the bottom.
UGH - I re-switched the outputs to go to the correct nozzles and everything started working.
In conclusion.
- Those Filament Buffer Inputs -> Outputs are “hardcoded” if you are using the AMS.
- My guess is the AMS was thinking “hey I’m going to the Right nozzle” but the Filament Buffer tells it “uhhhhh, this is the LEFT nozzle input - you shall not pass!”
- In hindsight, the error message alludes to the problem, but it’s not clear.
- I rechecked the install video and again, it alludes to this “hardcoding” but does not specifically say “DO NOT SWITCH THESE”.
Don’t be a bonehead and switch those outputs!
This only happened once.
When I started a print, the printer made this LOUD grinding noise. The toolhead was trying to move but it clearly couldn’t. No errors thrown by the printer and the only was to stop the issue was to stop the print.
I did take a moment to get a video of the issue happening so I had something to give support.
I’ve opened a ticket with them, but I’m wondering if anyone has seen this issue.
While it hasn’t happened since, I’m really worried there is damage to the gears that move the toolhead.
Just got my X2D setup and did a test print on the left nozzle and now want to test the right (connected to the external spool). I’ve done the “load” function multiple times and I’m getting filament extruding out of the nozzle. when you go to the “AMS/spool” page on the console it says “Loaded”. But when I go to print I get the error in the title.
I’ve looked everywhere and can’t find anything on this. I’m sure I’m just not looking in the right place but has anyone had this type of error and figured out what the issue is?
Thanks.
EDIT: I had been trying to launch the print from the console using the “files” function. So I just tried to print from the handy app and it’s WORKING FINE!!!
I’ll keep my eye on this and report back if I find anything.
Here’s my list of what to print for the for the new X2D and ams (based on what I’ve done for the P2S)
- AMS pods to hold desiccant
- Riser - without the AMS flipper
- Bottom hole covers - May do the big version that covers everything (full cover).
- Air deflector
- Poop chute
- Another AMS Stacker (if I get a second AMS)
Other things but I’m not sure they are necessary…
- Dust covers for upper piece (don’t have this on P2S, thoughts?)
- Print head PTFE guide
- Chain clips
- Back wire guide (seems like there’s more wires to deal with - especially if I get another AMS.
Is there anything unique to the X2D that I’m missing? Something for both printers I should add??
Thanks.
Edit to provide links and additional detail
I tried to do a long overnight print with lots of color changes (first time I’ve tried this) and I got the dreaded “blobs problem.” Turns out the printer had a case of constipation with all the poop that was being generated. The poop bin was only about 1/2 full, but there was a full backup on the chute part. I was able to get everything cleaned out, cleaned the nozzle and the extruder and I’m back in business, but…..
How do I avoid this problem going forward. Do I need to do these long multicolor prints during the day and clean it out periodically? Do I need to use a different poop chute? Is there something else I’m missing?
PS: Any idea why it decided to do such a big filament switch tower? I didn’t slice this myself - just sent it to the printer. Is it something that’s in the design (not visible)?
Thanks
I have a 2012 Roadster Convertible (R59).
I want to add two things to the car and my hope is that I can do it without having to mod the car too much.
I want to add a dash cam. I could certainly use a regular stick on the windshield kind, but I’m worried that someone will try to break in through the roof to get it and end up causing a ton of damage. In terms of cams, I definitely want a forward facing and rear camera - so that brings me to my second “want”…..
I want to add a rear camera for reversing. Visibility sucks and I have a horrible back, so seeing during backup is a crap shoot :-)
So is there a unicorn that would work for me? I’ve looked at the Fitcamx but it doesn’t appear to fit the R59. I’ve also seen where people get one of those android auto/CarPlay screens - but not sure how well they work.
Does anyone have a solution they are happy with? Is this install complicated (thinking of my crap back) or did you take it someone to get it installed.
I’m in the US on the east coast for reference.
Picture of my car just for fun :-)
Thanks
I’ve read a bunch of posts on Wagos and I’m ready to try them on a floodlight I have to replace. Any issues in using it for an outdoor installation?
For reference, I’m in NJ (don’t know if that matters in this case)
Thanks