u/Sebastian_Fasiang

Lol I just finished building the Neo 75, and it sounds terribly hollow, plasticky, and light. My gmmk pro sounds better somehow.

I must have messed something up pretty bad haha.

I used Zealios switches as it's what I had on hand, I also have a few holy pandas in there which sound a bit nicer. I also think these Drop key caps might not be helping.

I did the silicone gasket mount but I also added the little silicone taps that are used underneath for the top mount style. I also didn't add the foam between the aluminum plate and the PCB, and I didn't use the foam for the bottom of the case.

I believe I will try and start over with top mount, foam between PCB and alu plate and mayyybe the foam on the bottom. I might also try different key caps.

Anyone have any suggestions tho? Maybe different tactile switches?

I have been surviving with the Rancilio Rocky, the low retention 3D printed mods helped quite a bit but it hasn't been ideal overall. Finally found a great deal on a proper grinder.

What do you guys think? Time to find a great deal on a better espresso machine too?

(It's a Nuova Simonelli Mythos One, it doesn't have the Clima pro tech)

Hey guys, I'm looking for some guidance here on this recent repair I paid for with a local custom plastic work shop.

The item in question is a plastic hopper for a coffee grinder. The neck area was cracked clean off and it slotted back in place nicely, I could have easily used a plastic weld glue from JB weld or Gorilla glue to repair this myself but I was concerned about food safety and decided I would be happy to support a local business and have a cleaner professional job that was hopefully more food safe. (Btw I didn't break it, I purchased it broken).

When I picked it up I saw it looked terrible and I am questioning whether it's food safe at all. They charged me 125 Canadian dollars plus tax. The value of this hopper is 300$ plus tax brand new.

Based on my research hoppers are generally polycarbonate but the guy at the shop told me it's probably PETG because it's more food safe and easier to mold. I didn't argue but did tell him from my online research that it appears most companies use Polycarbonate.

Anyways, does this job seem adequate for 125$? Is this genuinely something difficult to do and is it good I didn't attempt to do it with JB Clearweld myself? Or did I get ripped off for a sloppy job?

Thank you kindly! (Btw I really wanna support this local business and I am hoping I am wrong and they actually did the best they could)

Hey guys,

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I have recently purchased this used Nuova Simonelli Mythos grinder, but I am genuinely very confused about what exact variant it is.

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It has the hopper size of a Mythos Clima Pro or those styles of the Mythos, it also has four LED lights underneath, it has the chrome burr housing designed to be exposed just like the Clima Pro. It also doesn't' have that metal beauty cover of the Mythos basic or anywhere to mount it.

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That being said, it seems to lack any clima pro tech, inside there is just the motor and it doesn't have any spots on the chassis for those fans that are part of the clima pro variants.

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On the serial number plate it seems to have an L.S. marking beside the Mythos name.

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I will be using this at home, and I am curious if anyone else is doing this and if anyone has any tips or recommendations. I think I will use the clump crushers and do grind by time instead of trying to single dose this, but has anyone had a bad experience with removing the clump crushers entirely? My goal is to skip WDT and RDT if possible.

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Additionally, I can't financially justify replacing those burrs at the moment but they look to be in relatively rough shape, do you guys think they will be okay with a Rancilio Silvia or will they noticeably make worse espresso?

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Thanks a lot!

408 000 kms. I noticed some oil around a few spark plugs a while back and finally got around to swap the valve cover gaskets. My valve areas are a bit less clean looking than I see online, what do you guys think?

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Did the plenum gasket too of course but I might have to switch it out soon again anyways as I am working on diagnosing a 20-24% LTFT on one bank and a 12-20% LTFT on the other bank.

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I also had to get some bolts to finish the job because the oem bolts stretched a bit and snapped off when torquing them back in. I didn't wait a week for oem bolts and picked up some zinc coated harder steel ones locally. I was very careful torquing these as stripping the aluminum threads is easier with harder bolts but in the end it went well.

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If anyone here has dealt with high LTFT, please do tell me what the issue ended up being. I suspect a mix of everything, maybe fuel pump and filter, injectors, a vacuum leak and also very possibly my silly TRD Pro CAI. So far I picked up some starting fluid to see if I can find a vacuum leak the dangerous way, and I also picked up some used injectors from a wrecker to send out and have cleaned and flow tested/matched in case it is the injectors. I will most likely have to perform a fuel pressure test soon if I don't find a vacuum leak somewhere.

Hey guys,

I have been using this Denso paper filter with the cotton sub filter underneath instead of the oily filter that comes with the TRD CAI. I noticed it was bent out of shape yesterday and might not have been sealing properly.

Is anyone else using this filter? I am a bit worried because this is not the proper filter for this CAI so maybe the fitment isn't perfect and getting dust or sand in the engine is not ideal. I might need to fabricate something to help it seal and compress, not sure. Has anyone here done anything similar?

Thanks!

Hey guys, I have used a Glorious GMMK Pro for the past many years, and the PCB seems to be failing. I have replaced the switches which helps for a few days but then it goes back to very poor keypress registration (sometimes it doesn't register at all, sometimes it double or triple taps when I only tap once).

I would like to buy a new keyboard all together, but I would be happy to be able to reuse the switches I just purchased, so I am after a barebones kit, but I am open to other options if necessary. Budget around 150-250 CAD.

I really like the 75% form factor, I don't necessarily need a volume knob but I also don't mind having it. I don't need wireless functionality either. I would prefer having backlighting, and I am willing to pay for better backlighting, my switches have south facing diffusers at the moment.

I don't seem to see anything that's highly recommended in stock, the best I could find really is the Keychron Q1 V2. Is that an okay option? Or should I spend a little more elsewhere?

I would be open to hall effect too if it can accept my regular switches and then upgrade to hall effect switches down the line, not sure if it works that way but thought I would throw it out there to see.

Thank you all very kindly, I am looking forward to hearing back!

Hey everyone,

I recently posted about my LTFT being high, but today my friend noticed I blew a lot of smoke out of my exhaust under heavy acceleration.

The high LTFT convo didn't conclude much, there was a suggestion the TRD Pro cai could be a culprit, or the MAF sensor, or other items like the valve cover gasket, the fuel pressure regulator, injectors, etc.

I haven't done any further tests since but it does concern me a lot more knowing I am blowing smoke.

I would like to add that I occasionally smell a good amount of fuel around the vehicle on startup, but this comes and goes and isn't a constant.

I will start with a MAF sensor clean, then a fuel pressure test, and then some tests with an OBD scanner to try and determine what is most likely causing this before I start throwing parts at it.

I have 400 000 kms on the dash.

I am curious if there are any more suggestions as to what this could be based on your experience as a community and maybe if there are additional items I should be checking when I start diagnosing.

Thank you all very kindly!

Hey guys,

My steering feels weak and the tires seem to want to do their own thing since I put them on the FJ yesterday.

I finally got my summer 33's on, I purchased five KO3's (285/75R16 Load range C). My mechanic is a very good one and he aligned my FJ recently when I had my winter tires on (stock size), and he did account for the fact that I would be running 33's soon again when he did the alignment.

I am running Icon tubular UCA's with their delta joints and a 2" lift in the front with around 1" in the back (Eibach pro truck level kit stage 1). I have also recently done the inner tie rod ends and had no issues there.

My mechanic did note during the alignment that it seems as if the Icon UCA's want a bit more lift than two inches for proper geometry, he had to make some compromises in the alignment because he was not able to get it all perfect due to the Icon UCA's. The Icon's are rated for 2-4" of lift I believe but maybe since my rear end is only 1", that might be making a difference.

Anyways I am curious as to why I might be feeling weak steering in my FJ when running load range C 33" ko3s on 16" rims. I feel like a lot of people here have them and don't seem to have ever mentioned this issue. (Btw my mechanic did not recommend I run 33" tires, especially not heavy ones 😂).

Side note : I had Firestone Destination X/T's last year and they felt this way too until I finally installed the Icon UCA's which mostly fixed the issue.

Thank you all!

Hey guys, apparently this is the good reddit to ask for advice on a commercial coffee grinder.

I can drive for 3.5 hours to pick up a Nuova Simonelli Mythos Clima Pro for 950 Cad. It looks to be in rough condition but turns on and probably works just fine. Add a good 180Cad of fuel to the price too.

Curious if I would be silly to let this deal slip or if the price isn't as good as I think?

Thank you all!