u/SoCalChrisW

We just moved into a house with an extremely old A/C system, the schematic on the service panel shows a 1987 build date. Despite it's age, the system looks like it's been maintained fairly well. I can't find the model # anywhere, but it's a Janitrol made by Goodman in 1987ish. From what I'm finding online, the 40/5 capacitor is probably correct, but I'm not 100% positive on that.

Anyways, it runs fine, but after running for 12+ hours it will blow one of the two plug fuses in the disconnect box and shut itself down. I haven't been able to see the exact timing of this, but it seems like it keeps happening around early afternoon as we're reaching the hottest part of the day. Ambient temps have been high 80s/low 90s.

Also to add, the disconnect box that contains the fuse that keeps blowing faces the sun in the morning, and is covered in dark stucco, so there's a good chance it is building up a decent amount of heat early in the day before it blows the fuse.

Here's what I've tried:

• Replaced the fuses with new T30A fuses twice, it did this same behavior both times
• Tested the capacitor. It looks brand new, and the capacitance of both the herm and fan terminals was almost exactly where it should be
• I tested all of the terminals on the contactor, they were all very tight
• I tested the terminals on the disconnect box, these were mostly tight, but I was able to tighten a few of the terminals by probably 1/16th of a rotation.
• The terminals in both the disconnect box and the contactor plate all look like they are in decent condition, no obvious corrosion or pitting

I don't want to keep just throwing fuses at this, but I'd also like to fix the existing system without requiring a whole new one for now. I realize this thing will likely die completely in the near future, but I'd like to keep using it for the short term if there's any life left in it. When it's running, it does cool.

My questions:

1. Will the slight tightening of the terminals in the disconnect box be enough to reduce resistance, and keep the fuse from blowing?
2. I"m reading that heat might be causing the fuse to fail without actually blowing the fuse. Is this plausible? I don't see burns or scorches inside the blown fuse. Would a combination of heat from being directly in the sun and resistance from slightly loose terminals in the disconnect box be enough to cause the fuse to fail?
3. If the sun hitting the disconnect box is an issue, would putting something to shade it in the morning help?
4. Any other obvious things to check that a non-pro could look at here before calling a tech?

Here's some photos of the disconnect box, capacitor, contactor plate, blown fuse and the readings from testing the capacitor.

https://imgur.com/a/0RdhImr

Thank you!

Pretty good condition. Grey. Includes all hardware. Is disassembled. Does not include mattresses or bunky boards.

Please comment on here if you send me a DM, I don't always see those.

Would love to have it picked up today.

2003 Unicomp Model M. Grabbed a PS2-USB adapter from Amazon, plugged it in and it works like a champ still.

This isn't location tracking, this is ad tracking.

If you've requested that they not track you for advertising, they will force you to log back in every time you use the app.

Thanks I guess for finally nudging me to not grab a quick breakfast there any more?

Just moved into a new place a few weeks ago. A few days ago, the valve on our shower started leaking pretty badly. I replaced the cartridge, but it is still leaking the same.

The leak looks like it's not coming from the cartridge, but behind it, and the water is coming out below where the cartridge screws into.

What do I need to look at next? Is this a fairly common fix that the local hardware store will have parts for; I know Hansgrohe is a nicer brand that doesn't seem to be carried by most of the big box stores.

https://imgur.com/a/Z7EeHHr

Thanks

15 year old Malia with 2 year old Stovetop.