u/SoneiOTree

A bit of a long story with this, I'll try to make it quick. Bought an 88 Z31 running well without smoke. Did the timing belt but it was a VG33 belt, not a VG30. Bent 3 intake valves. Pulled that cylinder head, replaced 3 valves and the head gasket, reassembled only to see mostly white smoke pouring out the exhaust.

Thought I messed up the head gasket install by not making sure head bolt holes were free of fluid (two had oil in them). Bought a top end rebuild kit (valves, valve seals, intake gaskets, head gaskets). Rebuilt both heads with new valves, valve seals, scraped all gasket material, replaced all gaskets, torqued everything to spec after thread chasing and blowing out bolt holes with compressed air. It smokes exactly the same as it did after doing the head gasket the first time. Both cylinder head surfaces were in spec for warpage. The smoke isn't super prevalent at cold start but gets worse as the engine warms up and with more RPM

What could have happened/what could be wrong? I mentally concluded crack in the block or warpage I didn't catch but I was talking to someone about this and they mentioned a potential stuck/problematic PCV system.

My 87 740 Turbo died on me. It was misfiring at low RPM, revving itself in idle randomly, and eventually left me stranded.

So far I have verified spark from the coil and verified that fuel is being delivered. From my understanding, that shows that the CAS/Hall sensor is good. I've tried to verify spark at the plug by pulling a plug, cranking with the plug connected and out, along with an in-line plug tester. I've also been told that the fuel pressure regulator may cause this. Pulled the vacuum line off and there was no gas present inside. However, it did smell of gas a little bit.

I haven't seen spark at the plug or indication of spark with the tester. However, I've had both of these testing methods not work for me in the past. What should I do next? I've already pulled the distributor cap off to check it and clean contacts. I haven't investigated the rotor yet because it's a bit tough to inspect. What should I look for with those items anyways or is there anything else that can cause a failure to deliver spark between the coil and dist.?

So I was listing a car and I made a joke in the description. Something something "testosterone doubles when you step on it."

Facebook denied posting this listing due to violations of TOS because THEY THINK I'M SELLING A MEDICAL DEVICE. Ahh yes, the 1981 Chevy Corvette shaped medical device.

I wouldn't be too angry if this review submission system actually worked. When I try to request this for review, I literally can't. I press the "submit" button, it shows the loading icon for a bit, then it turns blue again wanting me to hit it again. I am completely unable to submit.

I try using meta AI and it tells me to do the same thing, even loads the submission window in the chat. Same thing, submission failed. I berated the AI to tell me what else to do instead of telling me to refresh 5 times over and I reported this as a problem via the "Report a Problem" tab.

I need to sell this car quickly since I really need the money, but I have a feeling this is going to take a long *** time. I tried reposting without the joke and some different pictures like it tells me to do but it marks it as a duplicate.

Has anyone else experienced this and found a workaround? Any advice on navigating the support system for a quick remedy?

Next weekend, it looks like I'm buying a '78 280Z that's been sitting for 2 years with an electrical issue. I'm not new to projects, or buying old cars, so this isn't another "should I do it" post. If it has compression, no rust, etc, I'm doing it and it's a good deal. Allegedly, 65k original miles (5 digit odo, I'm aware). Just curious what you all might think I'm in for since I'm new to these types of electrical issues.

Seller states it's a crank no start due to no spark and he's narrowed it down to "one half of the fuse box getting no power." I've spoke with him a lot, and the car is 5 hours away, so I'm taking his word on that for now. Any ideas as to what could cause "one half of the fuse box" to receive no power?

He's said a few things that led up to this that caught my attention. 1. radio was stolen before this. I know some cars have a sort of anti-theft system for radios, wondering if that could be part of it. 2. Something about going through a big puddle or some large water event with the car (not a flood).

Asking for help on this diagnosis before I go burning money by throwing parts at it.

My 87 740 Turbo developed a horrible, intermittent misfire recently. It would sometimes only miss up until 3k RPM then act fine up to 5500. Sometimes it would run perfectly. It didn't seem to be dependent on cold/hot engine. This misfire would also lead into some crazy power surging. Foot on the gas, no power, just missing, then it has all the power, then none again. Sometimes, the engine would randomly rev to 2,000 RPM when idling in neutral.

The car has 2 new fuel pumps that are confirmed to be working. Spark has been confirmed from coil to distributor but I did not see a spark from a spark plug that I pulled. All 4 plugs are new as well.

My first thought was distributor/hall sensor but I have also heard that the fuel pumps won't kick on if there is no signal coming from the hall sensor. I hear the fuel pumps working, so I'm a little stumped.

What steps should I take to properly diagnose this or has anyone had/heard of these symptoms before?

I recently had failure of spark on my 87 740 Turbo. Checked for spark from the coil and I do have that. Checked for spark from distributor, and it appears plugs aren't sparking.

Is there a way that I can see if its the distributor or hall sensor specifically? I'd replace both but I'm balling on a budget over here

Long story short, everything is off with my recently rebuilt NA S4 13B and I feel like I'm chasing my tail. I don't know where to start the fine tuning process.

Ignition timing is off, idle air bypass screw isn't set properly, TPS seems to not be adjusted, and the throttle cable has been giving me some hassle. I don't know which of these items to start with.

Ignition timing is set incredibly retarded. Sort of works in the moment since we're not revving the motor past 3,500 for a break in. I tried advancing it to spec (yellow/red marks) but that resulted in a very unhappy idle (at about 1,200-1,500 RPM).

I tried getting a read from the TPS but the TPS was not reading well (following correct procedure with getting motor to temp, etc.) 90% of the TPS positions came back as ".006-.008 volts" but I saw, in one certain spot, it read .8 something. The position where it read .8 wasn't fully open or closed. Also tried the resistance method and consistently got a 0 ohm read.

Throttle cable had an immense amount of slack, to begin with, and wouldn't let the motor idle one bit. On the first successful idle, I yanked a lot of slack out of it but I experienced a 2,000 RPM idle. I get different idle results depending on how I set this all while making sure it's not actively engaging the butterfly valves.

Last, the air bypass screw. I played around with it a bit when I achieved a 1,500 RPM idle (while grounding the green connector) but doesn't seem to do enough in terms of adjusting with where I'm at with everything.

Given all 4 items that affect how the motor idles are off, what do I start with? The high RPM start literally changes each crank (+/-300ish RPM), even without any adjustments. I drove it somewhere yesterday idling, and on the drive back, it stopped idling.