u/Special-Truth-1576

Everything I find online tells me about the top being more warm than the bottom but I have the reverse .

My bottom shelf in the fridge where I keep my milk and most perishable items is getting to 41F temps in a glass of water. 46F air temps.

The top of the fridge is about 37F

I initially had a frozen Evap and broken fan so I tried an aftermarket fan and that was bad since always on and pushing warm air while defrosting. Replaced that with an OEM fan and now it turns on and off and passes the 75% load test. I also replaced the defrost timer? On the evap. Nothing freezes over now.

In cooling test mode 0095 (I believe for ff) it shows Evap temps and it went to 11 before I just let it try to cool the fridge off , maybe gets colder but that tells me Evap thermistor is good, cooling charge is good, compressor is good and both fans compressor and Evap right?

I noticed a little ice dam in the freezer by the fan that is was working so I took it apart and steamed that icicle and checked behind and everything was fine. Tested both fans at 75% and heard/saw then come on. I've tested ff,fz,Im,condenser fan 75% speed and all work but not sure rpms?

After I steamed the freezer and turned back on I heard some weird noises and checked errors and it said 0105 for compressor fan not reaching speed but it sounded like defrost timer area was making noise... I powered it down and turned it back on and the noise and code was gone, maybe a fluke.

I replaced my humidity sensor too because it was always in the 80% + and now it seems to be more accurate. That was OE from GE too.

Both thermistor I have not replaced seeing as how they are really close to the temps I measure , fridge off by like 3F air temp on top shelf near the sensor location.

I used a condenser brush and cleaned all the dust off the coil and then even used condenser foam from simple green and waited a while and then steamed it all off.

What else can I do/check. I had my water heater heat pump go and fridge at the same time. I refuse to spend 2k for a fridge and rather save 700-1k by not buying a dinged one that's the same size with extended warranty. Thank you

I couldn't edit AVV to AAV.

How do I fix this mess please. Do I only want the left AAV? Do I increase the height of the aav on the left to at least match the washer standpipe?

I plan on cutting that 3/4" condensate at where that plug is and capping it. Can I steal that other avv on right and airgap a comedy pump hose above it ?

I don't know why they downsized to 1.5" from 2" but for now I plan on extending it with 1.5". I just want my washer to stop making the sink on other side of the wall (also needs an avv) to stop gurgling.

House is 102 years old, work with me please lol

I bought a studor to put in but after I do that will my sink tied in need a studor also under it ?

Should I also move the washer drain hose into the straight shot down vs the angled wye? I'd be more comfortable updating that to two inch since I don't have to deal with the entire wye pipe redo and can possibly just use the one it's in now for condensate air gap drain from water heater

Studor says to use 2" standoff for washers and have it going to 3".... I have no idea if mine goes to 3" .

Thank you a ton.

V/r

Penny pincher

Are these propressed connections ? How do I remove them. I started to turn it with my pipe wrench and it started turning/twisting my entire water line, ugh

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I do have a map gas thing, never used it before. Do I just heat this up a few seconds and then try to twist it or is that also pinched on and I need something special to get this off.

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I have to return my ao smith to Lowe's and get a new one. Last plumber charged me 1200 and it looks like it's just these two hot and cold connections and the 220 connection.

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Going to try and save and use the copper on the pressure release and anything else I can. I could saw it off sure but that doesn't tell me how to connect it up to the new one once I get it up these 50 stairs.

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Today has sucked. First 4 year old flushed something down the toilet and I shop vac it out, then last night out fridge decided to stay 57F and now all the food is bad and waiting on those parts and now this ...:(

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Thanks

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I walked by the clearance area in HF and found this guy still here and I decided to buy it and low and behold it's missing the included mig gun. To buy the replacement from HF it's another 90 bucks. I only have 5 days to return .

Im seeing lots of yeswelders and Femerol welders that are multi for around the same price if not cheaper. The reviews of these show wiring burning up and I wasn't sure if it was worth taking one of these apart and repairing any pinched wires with proper wago connectors and maybe thicker gauge copper wire (read one review had great success with this)

HF has deals where I can use 25% off coupon which would take this new to 375 after coupon. So at the price I got it it's great but add on a new HF gun (manager didn't want to give me any deal on a spool gun, felt like he was hiding this and the gun for himself somewhere in the store .. me being paranoid).

I just want to learn to weld on my steel trailer I bought. Bought a 16' trailer that had an rv on top that I want to learn to weld more support beams and wheel fenders to make it a utility trailer.

Sure I'd love a multi but learning on a decent mig is good too. I do have rot I'd like to repair on a few cars I have like rocker panel but that needs tig I think, so multi would be even better.

HF extended warranty is 115 bucks for 2 years, insane. Also 20% restocking fee .... Hopefully not on mine too since it was missing probably more than the gun. It had ground strap, gas regulator and one wheel 0.3 something lol.

My neighbor has welded for 30 years as a career and recently changed jobs, he doesn't own a welder of his own, odd right lol. He can teach me all the safety etc.

Thanks

Why does this most recent batch taste watered down, come out faster... More liquid like, and smell a lot more like vinegar . What changed ugh.

I know it has vinegar but I feel they cheaped out and decided to add more vinegar now

Garlic and jalapeno stuffed. They smell and taste LOL, I ate two but the third one I was like uhhhh

2011 VW GTI

Also are the fronts okay for a while, I'm going to return the front pads and rotors, seemed fine, lines em up and sanded out areas

Thanks

3/4/5/6 are the fronts I didn't replace just after I went to bed in the new rear pads to rotors. There is one groove or two but should be good for rotors in front right?

I did reline the hell outta all slide pins with different stuff, trying Silaceramic by CRC this time, have up with permatex a while ago, guess I used it on these... gummy.

Don't forget to take the time to clean this area out, get behind the sponge too! It's only the mud guards t-25 x 4 I think and 1 underneath (don't miss this one hiding) then the one on top middle nearest edge of fender and one in back by above the tie rod should be enough to pull this liner out and clean the area out, may wanna spray some rust preventer spray in there too. I gotta go back and do the other 3 another day.