u/Spiritual_Bell

I've had my eyes on the outlander PHEV for many years, simply because there aren't many options that is a PHEV, SUV, and AWD. I've even helped 2 other friends buy their outlander phevs (just before the tax credits went away - $12k-$4k-$3k). I currently drive a 2010 Ford escape hybrid with 300k miles. I've been wanting to get a newer car (probably used, a few years old, 50k miles or less) and I can't commit to the outlander because of the cold start problem. I ski and ice climb, and often leave my car in -20f temps at trailheads. Or however cold it gets in CO/Montana/Canada. When are they going to fix this issue!!! Like, if there's a way to retrofit a fix Im desperate enough to do it myself!

Edit: I just read that the 2026 has battery preconditioning? So the cold start issue is fixed!?

Just finished rough in with pex, pressure tested at 100psi air over 24hrs, but actual rough in inspection won't happen for a while (months?) is it ok to leave the system pressurized at the testing pressure with air indefinitely?

Is J-B Weld "Pink-to-Natural" Wood Filler considered "structural"? It says it can be drilled and holds anchors!? Is it like an epoxy based wood filler?

How does it compare to dab plastic wood latex wood filler? Which also says would take anchors. Are they both the same thing?

I have 4x crown XLS 2000 powering 4x 18tbw100-4 in 4 FLHs. Efficiency should be above 100db/w per cab. Each amp bridged to one sub. All amps are on the same 120v circuit.

When "turned up" to the desired level (your typical EDM dance stack level), outdoors, the amps are clipping, a lot. At big drops, thermal protection on the amps kick in and stops for a few seconds. Assume low crest factor bass EDM.

Wouldn't the breaker pop if the amps are actually pumping out full power? Those 4 subs combined should handle "4000+W"?, which should pop the breaker way before I reach the power handling limit of the drivers? I'm not worried about excursion limits here, just thermal and why the amps are clipping so much yet the singular circuit breaker is not popping.

This was about a 4 hr session during the day. The sun did hit the front face of the sub cabs. And at the end I opened up one cab and found the magnet to be very hot to the touch. As in i can't touch it for more than a second. But no smoke, no smells, driver seems healthy?

I guess maybe I should ask, how should I check if the amps are actually putting out full power? (Which is NOT what I intended them to need to do, since the amps are oversized compared to the driver's power handling)

Can power compression (because the drivers got hot) have caused the clipping? I was told that the system was at "full blast" for about an hour before someone noticed the amps were constantly clipping. But they never "turned it up further" to compensate for the volume loss from power compression. I only arrived later to see why there was so much clipping.

Or is this a simple case of ..... I need to double the stack....? I mean, the 4 cabs add up to 10' x 5' x 2.5'. so it's a pretty substantial stack for maybe a 50'x60' listening space?

Anyone got the 8ohm version and wish you had the 16? I must ordered the 8 ohms from PE because they don't seem to sell the 16 ohms? I plan on tri amping.

Not seeing anything yet. 12% off not happening? Maybe July 4th?

I'm new to apple ecosystem was given a iPad 4th gen with ios10. Would love to know how to install a browser that can actually display the modern internet. (Currently safari does ok on some sites, can't deal with most sites). YouTube? Spotify? Maybe twitter? That's about all I need. Obviously the current app store tells me every app needs iOS 15+. I assume I need to jailbreak/side load custom apps? Can someone point me to the right tutorial/instructions/videos please. Trying my best to not let this become e waste yet! Thanks!

Is it code compliant to use blue thhn as the hot in conduit? If so does it need to be relabeled with black tape?