u/StW_FtW

I've got the CC2 last month, it's my first 3d printer and I'm learning both 3d printing in general and Orca specifically on it, so excuse me if I'm missing something but I'm very new to this whole thing.

So I've started using my printer with Orca 2.3.2 (flathub flatpak, I'm on Kubuntu 26.04), and I did not touch the exhaust fan setting under filament, cooling but noticed it was there and set to 70%. While doing one of my prints two days ago, I reached behind the printer to clean out the purge waste and noticed the exhaust fan seemed to not work, so I checked on the screen and it was only set to 10%, after checking again it really was blowing some air, but it's barely anything.

I went to check my Orca settings, and the exhaust fan settings are missing after the 2.4.0 update. They aren't there in the flatpak version I use, but also in the Snap and AppImages I downloaded to check. The thing is I've also got the 2.3.2 AppImage, I went back to it and imported the profile backups I made before my flatpak got updated. The setting is there, but after slicing a file and printing it, the fan still only ran at 10%. I don't think that setting ever worked, at least for me, after the print I manually ran the case exhaust fan at 70%, and it is quite loud, I would have noticed it if it made that noise before, it's nearly silent at 10%.

So, what's going on with the fan and the settings for it?

Did it actually work and I'm doing something wrong?

Is it really missing now or am I just not looking in the right place?

If it actually is how I suspect and it did not work before, and is now removed - will it be brought back, now working?

I've very recently got into 3d printing, but I'm surprised to realize that I think I might like the printer hardware and fucking around with Orca far more than I actually like or even need to print 😅

I've bought an Elegoo CC2 under a month ago, and I've considered modding it, but there is basically nothing around available for the printer that I was able to find, most mods and guides I found are for the original CC, so I thought I might wanna get something more moddable. Probably not right away, it might be months, or years, in the future, but I'd like to find out a few things to point me in a direction.

I keep coming across suggestions and videos about building Voron printers as well as talk of how expensive, hard and time consuming they are to build, so:

If you've built a Voron as well as a different open source/design printer, how hard and pricy is building a Voron in comparison? How hard is it compared to a Prusa kit? What other options do I have? If Vorons really are, like people say, uniquely hard and expensive, where should I look for a more affordable and easier to build printer?

Compared to other self built printer designs I mean, or even modding your existing printer heavily (replacing motors, belts, rails etc.?

About my post earlier today: It was completely wrong, I DID NOT use the same, or even remotely similar settings AT ALL.

The mistake happen because of me being dumb and not knowing how the software I use works primarily, but more specifically because of the way Orca handles profiles.

Profiles in Orca, as I learned the hard way, are not stored in full, they are instead stored as a list of changes to a specified base profile.

I was not aware of this this. I /assumed/ that profiles are standalone and contain all of their settings.

This lead me to exporting profiles out of first Orca, then Elegoo Slicer, importing them to the other software and compare them using the built in profile comparison tool, testing various things, slicing and printing using them, not knowing that the profiles I was testing did not change pretty much anything. Both slicers used their version of the base profile for almost all settings.

Manually copying all of the settings from Elegoo Slicer to an Orca profile brought the print times in line with Elegoo Slicer, as expected.

Nothing to see here but a person not knowing how Orca profiles are handled and making a bunch of baseless speculations based on their lack of knowledge.

To the developers of Orca - my deepest apologies.

About my post earlier today: It was completely wrong, I DID NOT use the same, or even remotely similar settings AT ALL.

The mistake happen because of me being dumb and not knowing how the software I use works primarily, but more specifically because of the way Orca handles profiles.

Profiles in Orca, as I learned the hard way, are not stored in full, they are instead stored as a list of changes to a specified base profile.

I was not aware of this this. I /assumed/ that profiles are standalone and contain all of their settings.

This lead me to exporting profiles out of first Orca, then Elegoo Slicer, importing them to the other software and compare them using the built in profile comparison tool, testing various things, slicing and printing using them, not knowing that the profiles I was testing did not change pretty much anything. Both slicers used their version of the base profile for almost all settings.

Manually copying all of the settings from Elegoo Slicer to an Orca profile brought the print times in line with Elegoo Slicer, as expected.

Nothing to see here but a person not knowing how Orca profiles are handled and making a bunch of baseless speculations based on their lack of knowledge.

To the developers of Orca - my deepest apologies.

I used to be able to long press on an embedded image, a many would pop up and I'd save the image to my phone, now I hold the image, the phone vibrates, and... nothing happens... No popup, no menu, the share menu doesn't open, I just can't save the images from the app at all.

Is anyone else having this issue? Is it a known bug? Can I hope for a fix?

My CC2 just arrived, I'm probably gonna assemble and test it before the weekend, it's my first 3d printer and I want to make sure I do everything right. I've got a filament dryer on the way and will be drying my filament before the first print. I got PLA, PETG and TPU just to test each of the materials I think I'm most likely gonna be printing as soon as possible.

I've seen the following settings have to be changed in Orca Slicer: enable do not cross walls, enable Z hop, disable filament ramming. Enable auto level bed before print on the printer itself. I also heard it's best to use gyroid or triangles infill pattern as they don't cross over which reduces the chance of the nozzle running into already deposited material and dislodging the print.

Are these right? Should I change anything else?

I've seen 1.1.25 and 1.1.29 recommended for the CC1, but couldn't find any mention of recommended firmware for the CC2? What are you currently running? What firmware have you had the best, smoothest experience with?

Hi, I'm strongly considering getting the CC2 through a local Polish official distributor because of the safety and initial returns policy in case I get a bad unit right off the bat, but I'm not sure they are gonna support the printer long term.

Has anyone here tried contacting official elegoo support about issues with a printer bought through a 3rd party, not their elegoo.com store? How did it go? Did they help resolve the issue(s), or send you back to resolve the issues with the store you bought it from?

Hi, I'm strongly considering getting the CC2 through a local Polish official distributor because of the safety and initial returns policy in case I get a bad unit right off the bat, but I'm not sure they are gonna support the printer long term.

Has anyone here tried contacting official elegoo support about issues with a printer bought through a 3rd party, not their elegoo.com store? How did it go? Did they help resolve the issue(s), or send you back to resolve the issues with the store you bought it from?

I would like to request that you help me pick my first 3D printer.

The main two models I have been looking at so far are the Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 at 1800PLN (~500USD) and the Creality K2 Combo at 2500PLN(~700USD). Which I annoyingly was not able to find any comparisons of anywhere, other then one youtube video. I also briefly looked at the Quidi Q2, but at 3600 PLN (~1000USD) it’s just out of my price range.

1. My main requirement is reliability, ease of use and maintenance. I would like it to not need attention often, but when it does it’s not a huge nightmare. I know preventative maintenance: cleaning, lubing, screw tightening, belt checking, is important and I plan on doing it, I don’t expect the printer to work 100% of the time without attention, I know it’s unrealistic and I would like it to be comparably straightforward to fix common issues on. For example I looked at how extruder clogs are cleared on the K2, CC2 and Kobra X and decided the integrated filament switcher of the Kobra is way too much hassle for me. I also like how K2’s nozzle goes all the way to the extruder, and in case of a bad clog can it be easily replaced, while on the CC2 I’d have to either clear the clog from the radiator or replace the whole hotend assembly.
2. I’m looking for a printer to print functional parts. I will be printing both things that require strength and flexibility, so I think I might require a printer that will work with toughter filaments like ASA or PETG CF and TPU, possibly soft TPU. I don’t have a point of reference so I can’t really tell how tough and how soft I will need to go, so I would like to keep my options as wide as possible.
3. I like how they both are enclosed, I don’t think I would mind a bed slinger but I know an enclosure would be ideal for some filaments. I know neither of them has a heated chamber, but I’ve read you can just heat up the enclosure with the bed and a heat gun/hair dryer and it should stay warm enough, so if that’s true I think either would be fine. If I really need it I might get one later. I’m a bit concerned about the CC2 since the hat lid increases the volume a lot and I’ve seen some reviewers talk about how it makes for a lower and less consistent interior temperature.
4. A filament changer is important to me. I don’t expect to do 3000-color-changes-3kg-waste prints, but I want one, it adds so many possibilities and just seems like a smart choice today.
5. I like open source so the full Klipper access on the K2 is a huge pro, but the CC1 has custom firmware available for it, and with the recent CC1 Canvas release I have some hope that the community will continue to support Elegoo’s printers, since I know it’s been a huge pain point in the last year. On that point, I know this disqualifies the entirety of Bambu Labs. I don’t like their closed ecosystem and would like to get a printer that’s similarly usable, yet open.
6. Large community is something I would actually really look for as well. The last thing I’d like to do is get a technically perfect printer on paper that like 3 other people bought and I’m on my own now with any issues and have no hopes for 3rd party replacement parts.
7. My budget is up to 2500PLN, but I would preffer to spend between 1000 and 2000 and have some money left for stuff like a filament dryer, filament, and maybe a hotend or two and a spare build plate in case I screw something up catastrophically right away 😉

Overall, which of these printers would you recommend to a beginner? Which one do you think would be better for me, based on what I said? Am I missing something obvious? Are there any other printers you think would suit my need best?

I would like to request that you help me pick my first 3D printer.

The main two models I have been looking at so far are the Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 at 1800PLN (~500USD) and the Creality K2 Combo at 2500PLN(~700USD). Which I annoyingly was not able to find any comparisons of anywhere, other then one youtube video. I also briefly looked at the Quidi Q2, but at 3600 PLN (~1000USD) it’s just out of my price range.

1. My main requirement is reliability, ease of use and maintenance. I would like it to not need attention often, but when it does it’s not a huge nightmare. I know preventative maintenance: cleaning, lubing, screw tightening, belt checking, is important and I plan on doing it, I don’t expect the printer to work 100% of the time without attention, I know it’s unrealistic and I would like it to be comparably straightforward to fix common issues on. For example I looked at how extruder clogs are cleared on the K2, CC2 and Kobra X and decided the integrated filament switcher of the Kobra is way too much hassle for me. I also like how K2’s nozzle goes all the way to the extruder, and in case of a bad clog can it be easily replaced, while on the CC2 I’d have to either clear the clog from the radiator or replace the whole hotend assembly.
2. I’m looking for a printer to print functional parts. I will be printing both things that require strength and flexibility, so I think I might require a printer that will work with toughter filaments like ASA or PETG CF and TPU, possibly soft TPU. I don’t have a point of reference so I can’t really tell how tough and how soft I will need to go, so I would like to keep my options as wide as possible.
3. I like how they both are enclosed, I don’t think I would mind a bed slinger but I know an enclosure would be ideal for some filaments. I know neither of them has a heated chamber, but I’ve read you can just heat up the enclosure with the bed and a heat gun/hair dryer and it should stay warm enough, so if that’s true I think either would be fine. If I really need it I might get one later. I’m a bit concerned about the CC2 since the hat lid increases the volume a lot and I’ve seen some reviewers talk about how it makes for a lower and less consistent interior temperature.
4. A filament changer is important to me. I don’t expect to do 3000-color-changes-3kg-waste prints, but I want one, it adds so many possibilities and just seems like a smart choice today.
5. I like open source so the full Klipper access on the K2 is a huge pro, but the CC1 has custom firmware available for it, and with the recent CC1 Canvas release I have some hope that the community will continue to support Elegoo’s printers, since I know it’s been a huge pain point in the last year. On that point, I know this disqualifies the entirety of Bambu Labs. I don’t like their closed ecosystem and would like to get a printer that’s similarly usable, yet open.
6. Large community is something I would actually really look for as well. The last thing I’d like to do is get a technically perfect printer on paper that like 3 other people bought and I’m on my own now with any issues and have no hopes for 3rd party replacement parts.
7. My budget is up to 2500PLN, but I would preffer to spend between 1000 and 2000 and have some money left for stuff like a filament dryer, filament, and maybe a hotend or two and a spare build plate in case I screw something up catastrophically right away 😉

Overall, which of these printers would you recommend to a beginner? Which one do you think would be better for me, based on what I said? Am I missing something obvious? Are there any other printers you think would suit my need best?

I would like to request that you help me pick my first 3D printer.

The main two models I have been looking at so far are the Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 at 1800PLN (~500USD) and the Creality K2 Combo at 2500PLN(~700USD). Which I annoyingly was not able to find any comparisons of anywhere, other then one youtube video. I also briefly looked at the Quidi Q2, but at 3600 PLN (~1000USD) it’s just out of my price range.

1. My main requirement is reliability, ease of use and maintenance. I would like it to not need attention often, but when it does it’s not a huge nightmare. I know preventative maintenance: cleaning, lubing, screw tightening, belt checking, is important and I plan on doing it, I don’t expect the printer to work 100% of the time without attention, I know it’s unrealistic and I would like it to be comparably straightforward to fix common issues on. For example I looked at how extruder clogs are cleared on the K2, CC2 and Kobra X and decided the integrated filament switcher of the Kobra is way too much hassle for me. I also like how K2’s nozzle goes all the way to the extruder, and in case of a bad clog can it be easily replaced, while on the CC2 I’d have to either clear the clog from the radiator or replace the whole hotend assembly.
2. I’m looking for a printer to print functional parts. I will be printing both things that require strength and flexibility, so I think I might require a printer that will work with toughter filaments like ASA or PETG CF and TPU, possibly soft TPU. I don’t have a point of reference so I can’t really tell how tough and how soft I will need to go, so I would like to keep my options as wide as possible.
3. I like how they both are enclosed, I don’t think I would mind a bed slinger but I know an enclosure would be ideal for some filaments. I know neither of them has a heated chamber, but I’ve read you can just heat up the enclosure with the bed and a heat gun/hair dryer and it should stay warm enough, so if that’s true I think either would be fine. If I really need it I might get one later. I’m a bit concerned about the CC2 since the hat lid increases the volume a lot and I’ve seen some reviewers talk about how it makes for a lower and less consistent interior temperature.
4. A filament changer is important to me. I don’t expect to do 3000-color-changes-3kg-waste prints, but I want one, it adds so many possibilities and just seems like a smart choice today.
5. I like open source so the full Klipper access on the K2 is a huge pro, but the CC1 has custom firmware available for it, and with the recent CC1 Canvas release I have some hope that the community will continue to support Elegoo’s printers, since I know it’s been a huge pain point in the last year. On that point, I know this disqualifies the entirety of Bambu Labs. I don’t like their closed ecosystem and would like to get a printer that’s similarly usable, yet open.
6. Large community is something I would actually really look for as well. The last thing I’d like to do is get a technically perfect printer on paper that like 3 other people bought and I’m on my own now with any issues and have no hopes for 3rd party replacement parts.
7. My budget is up to 2500PLN, but I would preffer to spend between 1000 and 2000 and have some money left for stuff like a filament dryer, filament, and maybe a hotend or two and a spare build plate in case I screw something up catastrophically right away 😉

Overall, which of these printers would you recommend to a beginner? Which one do you think would be better for me, based on what I said? Am I missing something obvious? Are there any other printers you think would suit my need best?

Hello! A last week I was on here asking generally about ease of use and maintenance of 3D printers. I got A LOT of GREAT replies, you were very helpful and I thank you all very much! ❤️
Today I would like to request that you help me pick a specific model for my first 3D printer.

The main two models I have been looking at so far are the Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 at 1800PLN (~500USD) and the Creality K2 Combo at 2500PLN(~700USD). Which I annoyingly was not able to find any comparisons of anywhere, other then one youtube video. I also briefly looked at the Quidi Q2, but at 3600 PLN (~1000USD) it’s just out of my price range.

1. My main requirement is reliability, ease of use and maintenance. I would like it to not need attention often, but when it does it’s not a huge nightmare. I know preventative maintenance: cleaning, lubing, screw tightening, belt checking, is important and I plan on doing it, I don’t expect the printer to work 100% of the time without attention, I know it’s unrealistic and I would like it to be comparably straightforward to fix common issues on. For example I looked at how extruder clogs are cleared on the K2, CC2 and Kobra X and decided the integrated filament switcher of the Kobra is way too much hassle for me. I also like how K2’s nozzle goes all the way to the extruder, and in case of a bad clog can it be easily replaced, while on the CC2 I’d have to either clear the clog from the radiator or replace the whole hotend assembly.
2. I’m looking for a printer to print functional parts. I will be printing both things that require strength and flexibility, so I think I might require a printer that will work with toughter filaments like ASA or PETG CF and TPU, possibly soft TPU. I don’t have a point of reference so I can’t really tell how tough and how soft I will need to go, so I would like to keep my options as wide as possible.
3. I like how they both are enclosed, I don’t think I would mind a bed slinger but I know an enclosure would be ideal for some filaments. I know neither of them has a heated chamber, but I’ve read you can just heat up the enclosure with the bed and a heat gun/hair dryer and it should stay warm enough, so if that’s true I think either would be fine. If I really need it I might get one later. I’m a bit concerned about the CC2 since the hat lid increases the volume a lot and I’ve seen some reviewers talk about how it makes for a lower and less consistent interior temperature.
4. A filament changer is important to me. I don’t expect to do 3000-color-changes-3kg-waste prints, but I want one, it adds so many possibilities and just seems like a smart choice today.
5. I like open source so the full Klipper access on the K2 is a huge pro, but the CC1 has custom firmware available for it, and with the recent CC1 Canvas release I have some hope that the community will continue to support Elegoo’s printers, since I know it’s been a huge pain point in the last year. On that point, I know this disqualifies the entirety of Bambu Labs. I don’t like their closed ecosystem and would like to get a printer that’s similarly usable, yet open.
6. Large community is something I would actually really look for as well. The last thing I’d like to do is get a technically perfect printer on paper that like 3 other people bought and I’m on my own now with any issues and have no hopes for 3rd party replacement parts.
7. My budget is up to 2500PLN, but I would preffer to spend between 1000 and 2000 and have some money left for stuff like a filament dryer, filament, and maybe a hotend or two and a spare build plate in case I screw something up catastrophically right away 😉

Overall, which of these printers would you recommend to a beginner? Which one do you think would be better for me, based on what I said? Am I missing something obvious? Are there any other printers you think would suit my needs best?

I was looking at the hobby for a far for years, but never really got into it because I just couldn't think of many things I'd need to print. Well, that recently changed, I'd like to print some functional stuff and for a few days now I've been watching videos, comparisons, reviews and reading some posts here and on a few other 3D printing subs, trying to find a printer that would suit me best.

From when I first found out about the hobby probably over 10 years ago, 3D printing seemed very intimidating, lots of calibration, trial and error, dialing in settings and troubleshooting issues, but a few years ago I started seeing videos talking about how easy and effortless Bambu Lab printers are, that they can print for years, hundreds or even thousands of hours with not much more than oiling and maybe clearing an occasional jam...

Now to the heart of my question(s):

• 1. Is this even true? Could I realistically get an A1, a bunch of filament and maybe a hardened nozzle and just... print, for years without needing to touch flow rates, layer thicknesses, calibration, bed leveling and all of the other stuff? Are they really as low maintenance as people say?

I'm an open source guy. I love the idea, love the openness, and though I'd like to have a printer that just works, I also love the idea of an open ecosystem, not to fix issues with it because I have to, but to always have that option to tinker with it if I want to. I also would like the printer to work fully offline, I see no need to print form my smartphone or even PC, I'm fine with SD cards or USBs, I'd even probably prefer it, I don't like the idea of a proprietary closed ecosystem, so:

• 2. If so, are there printers that have all the same sensors and auto calibration systems that allow Bambu Lab printers to work with little to no maintenance and fiddling about, yet give you an option to do so if you would like to?

And finally:

• 3. Could you point me in the right direction to find one? Could you maybe give me a list of brands, or maybe sensors I should be looking for, maybe there is an up to date guide to get an easy to use beginner friendly low effort printer I wasn't able to find?

If you could give me specific models that would be great too, but I think I'd need to give you more concrete requirements for that and that's probably a bit out of scope for this question, but if you could help me pick a specific model, I'd really appreciate it too!

edit: Ok, on second thought I actually probably should have just listed my requirements for a printer here 😅

1. I'm in Poland and I'd like to spend 1000-2000 PLN (~250-500$, but prices are really nowhere close to 1:1 curency exchange rates), if there is a really good reason I'm able to stretch my budget to 2500PLN, but I thought a better choice is to get a filament dryer right away. It's also my first printer so I wouldn't want to make a very big purchase if it doesn't end up being for me.
2. I'd like to print functional things, hangers, stands, holders, organizers, cases, adapters, etc., so both tough and flexible things. My guess would be mostly PETG and TPU, but I have no experience with 3D printing so I don't know how soft TPU I'd need or if PETG would be strong enough, and I know that both softer TPU and tougher filaments can be an issue so I'd like to get a printer that gives me flexibility with both.
3. I'd like a filament changer, not really to print multicolor but the ability to have multiple spools of the same filament seems great, and printing something with both hard and soft materials also seems like a good idea.
4. I'd like to keep the printer for a long time, so support and parts availability is a big concern.
5. All the other things mentioned before, offline operation ease of maintenance, openness of the software, etc.