u/TenonAndError

Already have a TK-modded Mark IV and a OCL suppressor and love shooting it, want to get another 22 for fun. Was looking at the TX22. Curious on the best upgrades/mods if I pick one up. Love to see people's builds, share away!

Looking to get my wife a spinning combo for trout fishing some medium rivers out in ID. Was looking for something in the $75-$150 range that will allow her to grow into it. I just ordered myself a St Croix GXR Lite, but haven't gotten it yet, and don't know if I want to spend $200+ for her first setup. Mostly will just be fishing from the shore into the river (or occasionally wading in a bit).

Just got my FPC last week and am wanting to do an optic. I notice on here, most people don't have open reflex sights. My main use of this will be at the range (both indoor and outdoor). I run Holosun 407C or 507C on my 9mm pistol, 10mm pistol and 22lr. Staying with those seems ideal, but was curious if there was a reason to avoid an open reflex optic for my FPC?

Curious what people recommend for shop cabinets face frame sizing. I am doing a run of 24" base cabinets, then one big tall 42" wide x 64" tall cabinet. Then a row of uppers (18" and 30"). I was thinking just doing 2" all around. Wondering if I am doing inset drawers (for all the lowers) would 2" seem too chunky? I like 2" just because it's a hefty size, easy to remember/calculate, and seems to do well. Also it matches the 2" rail/stiles for the doors I'll do on the uppers.

Not sure if there is an "standard" when it comes to sizing for face frames when you do shaker doors?

I got the mounts to add some pod lights (1 per side) to my GFC Max. Ideally I'd like these just for camp lighting on either side of the vehicle. I will attach them to my Garmin PowerSwitch, so I can remotely turn them on/off as needed. I'll angle them down and will use when I need to have light when setting up at night, or just if I want some lighting around the vehicle when it gets dark and we're still up and moving about.

I was thinking Baja S2 Sport (Work/Scene; Amber)....but from the pictures, it looks like they use a proprietary connector? I want to use 2-pin DT since I do all my own custom wiring for everything.

Would anyone suggest others, or should I get these and redo the wiring?

Going to be getting a bigger safe in my garage and I wanted to build a surround of it (with doors) to make it blend in to my wall of cabinets better. I plan to build just a surround (no bottom) and have a few questions:

I plan to build just two side panels and a top, then use 4" stretchers at the back (similar to how a frame around a fridge is). I will face frame it with 2" maple, but the bottom piece of the face frame I will just pocket screw in (no glue) so I can slide the safe in/out if I ever move (or use dominos with no glue).

The cabinet dimensions are: 30" (D) x 64" (H) x 42" (W)

1. The floor slopes down, it's about 1/4" difference on the right side compared to the left. Should I just build the end panels the same height and then use quarter-round on the bottom to cover the gap?

2. There is a ledge that protrudes from the wall about 2" and is 1.25" tall (https://imgur.com/a/xJkg5to). I am thinking it'd be easiest to just cut a notch out from the end panels so the cabinet frame can sit up to the wall.

3. If I go the route of just the frame/stretchers, would doors opening have enough support at the front, or do you think I would be dealing with flexing?

4. Other option was building an actual cabinet, with a bottom. If I did this route, would it be smart to double up the bottom (2x 3/4" plywood)? Then do a separate toe-kick, which would be 4" legs and can have the toe-kick attach to them. Downside of this is increasing the height and having to maneuver the safe up onto the base.

I've been searching online and cannot find much in terms of examples, so hoping someone here could help.

Going to be getting a bigger safe in my garage and I wanted to build a surround of it (with doors) to make it blend in to my wall of cabinets better. I plan to build just a surround (no bottom) and have a few questions:

I plan to build just two side panels and a top, then use 4" stretchers at the back (similar to how a frame around a fridge is). I will face frame it with 2" maple, but the bottom piece of the face frame I will just pocket screw in (no glue) so I can slide the safe in/out if I ever move.

1. The floor slopes down, it's about 1/4" difference on the right side compared to the left. Should I just build the end panels the same height and then use quarter-round on the bottom to cover the gap?

2. There is a ledge that protrudes from the wall about 2" and is 1.25" tall (https://imgur.com/a/xJkg5to). I am thinking it'd be easiest to just cut a notch out from the end panels so the cabinet frame can sit up to the wall.

3. Other option was building an actual cabinet, with a bottom. If I did this route, would it be smart to double up the bottom (2x 3/4" plywood)? Then do a seperate toe-kick, which would be 4" legs and can have the toe-kick attach to them. Downside of this is increasing the height and having to maneuver the safe up onto the base.

Would love to hear thoughts/opinions.

Looking for recommendations on shops around the Treasure Valley who specialize in overland builds. Specifically, looking for electrical work (running wiring for different lights, etc.). I am really OCD, so I want a shop that does a great job in terms of wrapping the wiring in sleeves, routing it cleanly, hiding and securing it well.

Set up my 22 Tundra with a GFC V2 Max and will have a Bluetti charging the fridge. The Bluetti is hooked up to their DC-DC charger + a 200W solar on my roof. My truck stays in my driveway, in a sunny climate. So I want to get a fridge that I plan on leaving in there full time. When we camp, it's me and my wife + our 1.5yo. Typically we'll do trips that are 2-3 nights, but may do longer ones in the future.

I am thinking I want a good, reliable single-zone ~35-40QT fridge. I do want reliability, and consistent temp control. Is Dometic really worth it, or would a nicer BougeRV (Rocky) or Vevor be good?

Wondering if anyone who has a v2 max can share what bedding fits up there to store? Wondering if my Hest pillows would fit?

Have a colleague willing to sell an SBE3m (probably about 60-75 shells put through it), factory cerakote in camo, plus some extra chokes. Does that price seem like too good of a deal to pass up?

Getting the GoFast V2 Max rooftop tent topper installed in a few weeks on my 2022 Tundra. It includes the solar panel, so I ordered a few things to hopefully get my electrical setup for the rig sorted out. Here is what I am thinking:

• Bluetti Charger 2 (mounted to MOLLE panel in GoFast)
• Bluetti Elite 100 V2 portable charger (Stored in truck bed)

Then my plan is hook the solar panel into the Charger 2. Wire the Charger 2 to my stock battery, and then have the Charger 2 hook into the Elite 100 to keep that fully charged.

I want to run the following:

• V2 Max internal lights (this plugs in via DC I believe, so gotta see if I can have it plug into AC so I can have the DC port free)
• Starlink (eventually)
• Iceco 58QT APL55 Dual Zone fridge/freezer
• Ability to charge phones & ipad at night as necessary

I ideally will just run the fridge in my truck always (it's my daily driver). The other devices not nearly as often. I also was thinking of getting a Garmin PowerSwitch to have some accessories attached to (Starlink, Chase lights, ARB air compressor eventually etc), does that make sense to have something like Starlink hooked into that, or just lights & air compressor)?

How does that electric set up sound overall?