r/bluetti

I'm using this unit to power sockets in the back of my camper conversion.

Every morning I have to go out of the sleep area, outside, and into the cab to turn Bluetti back on as its powered down after 4 hours.

Please tell me how to get round this so I can switch AC sockets back on in the morning after a good night's sleep!!!

I've got an AC70, and I'm looking for some cheaper solar panels than the Bluetti ones, with the main objective being I can leave it outside in the weather whilst camping. It can be a total pain to have to bring the panel in when the weather turns bad.

The Bluetti PV200 folding panel has conflicting information both on their website, and in the user manual. The page on the website says IP65, and the actual datasheet for the panel says IP67. But what both say is to NOT leave the thing in poor weather. Being as it's got cloth in the construction, I don't imagine it would enjoy sitting in a downpoor.

The solar input specs on the AC70 say 10A max. Everything I read says the Short Circuit Current should not exceed this. However, the PV200 itself is rated at 10.8A. More confusing is the PV350 which is rated at 11.4A, but Bluetti themselves sell it bundled with the AC70.

So what is the actual limit? If I find myself a panel that is rated at 11.7A, is that going to be an issue?

Or am I looking at this completely wrong, and should be looking at Current at Max Power instead of Short Circuit Current?

Thanks.

Hello,

I have two Bluetti 10 (mini) and a Bluetti Handsfree 1, and all of them share the same problem: all USB ports (type C and A) marked with "15W" deliver less than 10W. All devices have up to date firmware, no other active consumers just the device plugged in one of those 15W ports.

I tried different phones, power banks and other USB consumers with different USB cables and all share the same behaviour: < 10W.

Smartphones with original cables in all other chargers and power banks work with 17W, 20W+, 50W+ etc but <10W in Bluetti's 15W port. In Bluetti they usually work with 7W (for a couple of seconds the Handsfree provides 9W).

I don't expect to get more than 15W on those ports, but why just 7W ?

Meanwhile, the ports marked with 100W work ok (they go beyond 20W, 50W+, etc).

Does anyone else have this issue ?

Did you manage to fix it ?

PS: Bluetti support asks for a video (??????) after giving detailed written behaviour.

I have an Ac300. Added 6 powerbay 440w solar panels. 3 panels on pv1 and 3 panels on pv2. All my research told me this was safe and within the capabilities of the Ac300. I have been running on Pv1 for weeks without issue, while I waiting for more cable to connect the panels on pv2. Today I connected pv2 and it ran for hours without issue until the ac300 seemed to have burnt out. Blank screen, popping sounds and smoke.

Was my research incorrect or is there a hardware issue here?

Yesterday, my charger to blew the battery side 75 amp marine fuse. I rechecked all my connections and everything seems hooked ok. I’m not sure if I’m missing something or what.

I have it hooked to the p090 port on the AC200L and I have a D+ wire. 2024 bronco raptor with a 250a amp smart alt

It’s mainly so I can plug our tv in, charge our devices, and if possible, keeping my fridge plugged in.

Budget wise it would be awesome to be $500 and under, but if it’s not possible given what I’m wanting to do, I will pay more.

Not sure what other info is needed to give me a good recommendation, so let me know thank you

TLDR: Elite 300 from Home Depot arrived with a bad cooling fan. Home Depot purchases go through a separate email queue, not phone support. They refused to cross ship until I asked for escalation, then a supervisor approved it. Replacement arrived and works fine. Six weeks from purchase to a working unit, about ten days from first support contact.

My original post was written while this was going badly, so here is the fair version now that it is done.

The unit rattled from day one. Not loud airflow, an actual mechanical rattle, the kind you get from a bad bearing or something in the blade path. I have worked in tech long enough to know the difference. It never left the room I unpacked it in and was on current firmware.

The timeline: ordered July 2, delivered July 7. I called support August 3 and was told they cannot handle Home Depot purchases, email this other address instead. Sent the claim that day, they asked for video and serial on the 4th, I sent both on the 5th and asked for an advance replacement. They said no, policy, here is a return label. On the 6th I pushed back and asked them to escalate it to someone who could make an exception for a unit that was dead on arrival rather than one that failed in service. I shipped the unit that afternoon, about 65 lbs. By the 7th a supervisor had approved shipping the replacement on my tracking number instead of waiting for warehouse receipt, and confirmed in writing it would be new and not a refurb.

Then it stalled. My return got delivered the 7th and nothing went out, which meant the exception had quietly become worthless. I said so. On the 10th they confirmed the warehouse had it arranged and promised tracking the next day, and they hit that. Tracking on the 11th, replacement delivered the 12th. On the 13th they offered a warranty extension and 2,000 BLUETTI Bucks without me having to fight for it.

The new one has been under high load and sounds exactly like it should. It also showed up with current firmware already flashed. The serial suggests a much later production batch than the original, which would fit a bad run, though that is me guessing.

If you end up here: buying through a retailer routes you to a channel specific queue, so budget an extra round trip. Be precise about the defect, because saying "the fan is loud" gets you told that these units are loud. Ask for escalation by name if the first answer is policy, since the front line agent genuinely cannot authorize a cross ship but a supervisor can. And get dates in writing, because once I asked for one they gave it and met it.

The product failed and the process had too many steps. But they escalated when asked, broke their own policy for a good reason, hit the date they committed to, and offered something at the end unprompted. That is a real recovery and worth saying, since my first post was not kind. I would buy BLUETTI again.

Ok. So I've had a Bluetti elite 200 for about 6 months now. One feature I really like is when I have everything off, AC, DC, app off, solar cable disconnected, the station shuts itself off after about 45 seconds to a minute. Just today, I got the elite 300 and with the same settings, it's not shutting itself automatically. I have to do it manually by pressing the on/off button. Anyone else experiencing anything like this? Thanks in advance.

We've got an AC300 with three B300 batteries, charged by a 2.4 kW solar array. Every night people are plugging electric trike batteries in to charge so they're ready in the morning, but that puts a serious drain on the B300s and can leave them dead before dawn.

What I'd really like is to set up at least one 15-amp outlet for opportunistic charging - all of the optional charger loads would go on that outlet, and once the Bluetti batteries dropped below a set threshold, say 30% SoC, it'd be shut off to leave the remaining juice for lights and stuff.

There doesn't seem to be any way to do that with the AC300 alone. I'm an embedded systems engineer and don't mind building some custom hardware to do it, but I need telemetry from the system to tell me how much juice it has left.

In looking over the manual the only interface I see is Bluetooth. I think the protocol has been reverse engineered but I haven't dug up the details yet. I don't have access to the system right now so testing a solution isn't possible. I don't mind doing a little troubleshooting and tweaking on site, and if it was something like Modbus RTU I'd be 99% sure I could pull it off with minimal adjustments, but Bluetooth can be a pain in the butt.

Is that my only option, or is there another solution? If it has to be Bluetooth, are there any existing projects out there that are known to work reliably that I could use as a starting point?

Thanks!

I have my batteries at an upper limit of 80% to help longevity and lifespan, but im wondering if they should be lower, or can be higher without affecting their lifespan and reliability.

Any experts care to weigh in?

I’m seeing server rack batteries as an expansion are an option - but I don’t need 900 dollars worth of 100Ah battery.

Can I use a smaller 25Ah battery that is 51.2v as an expansion?

Do anyone have any recommendations?

I bought this unit in hopes of being able to run my 230v 1HP well pump. It works only if I use it to wash my hands and light usage. The moment I let the water run, shower or wash clothes, the B300 cannot handle the surge and it trips from a 2400W surge. I thought this unit has potential for power lifting up to 7800w surge or at least 3840w?

The unit is set at 240v mode.

A little disappointed but it's a good unit so far.

Any idea how I can make the well pump not trip the machine?

Edit: Apex300, not b300. I do have a b300 expansion battery.

Ok. So I've had a Bluetti elite 200 for about 6 months now. One feature I really like is when I have everything off, AC, DC, app off, solar cable disconnected, the station shuts itself off after about 45 seconds to a minute. Just today, I got the elite 300 and with the same settings, it's not shutting itself automatically. I have to do it manually by pressing the on/off button. Anyone else experiencing anything like this? Thanks in advance.