I'd like to be able charge the bluetti while driving. Has anyone used one of these cords from Amazon? I saw the Bluetti official on their site but are out of stock. If there are better options I'd be open to that too.
I recently ordered an Elite30 from Bluetti and the package was stolen.
Because Bluetti did not require “signature”, FedEx rejected the loss claim.
I went to the Seattle police department and after they reviewed surveillance footage from my building they confirmed that there was a theft (notified patrols but did not assign detective).
FedEx said that they can only work with shipper from this point on and can you imagine what Bluetti said to me?
“Are you lying about the thief?” And then rejects my refund multiple times.
Buy Bluetti at your own risk.
I have a charger 2 and an AC180. I’d really like to utilize the battery expansion port but I really don’t want to pony up for a BK300 - that’s about double what I’d like to spend. Is it the only way to get the expansion battery features on my charger 2? Is there anything more affordable that will work?
Hi. Like I said before, I live in a country with 20 hour blackouts. So when the power comes in the morning, I'm topping off my bluetti elite 200. When power goes out, I'm continuesly running a refrigerator with solar. I'm drawing around 500 watts during peak daylight, and the fridge uses about 240 watts. So the SOC is going back to 100% every 5 minutes or so. Is this ok for the station?
Hey everyone,
Setting up a Bluetti Elite 30 V2 as a 24/7 UPS for my 12V wifi router and mini PC.
The Bluetti is plugged in my wall; no solar panel.
I want to make sure i understand; correct me if i'm wrong...
Option A: Use AC Outlets
Option B: Use Native 12V DC Ports
Which option would you chose?
I see around 20% power loss in (DC --> AC --> DC). Any stats on battery degradation using option B?
Regards!
My AC200MAX melted on the input! Can anyone share pictures on what it should look like before it melted?
I'm debating whether I can dig around in the plug and pull pieces out and maybe buy a new adapter?
I'm on the road for the next month so this is not great for my trip!
I just replaced my year-old Charger 1 with a brand new Charger 2.
It's set up very simply; Jeep battery connection in, and output going to an AC180P power bank. That's it. Same wiring that my Charger 1 used.
Before, when I started the Jeep, the Charger 1 started charging up the AC180P until it hit 100%, as intended. The only reason I bought the Charger 2 is for adding solar input to the mix later this summer.
But now, after the vehicle sits overnight or for several hours, the Charger 2 powers itself off. I have to go into the app via Bluetooth and power it back on again. This is a show-stopper issue. I don't need any kind of advanced capability, I'm not powering a motorhome or small house with it. But I need the fridge in my Jeep to run 24/7/365 without fail. It seems there are some significant challenges with the Charger 2 that I'm reading and while I'm still in the returns window, I need to find out of there's a workaround for this power-off condition. If not, back it goes. Believe me, if I could add solar to the Charger 1 I'd do it in a heartbeat.
I'm looking for some guidance on whether the particular way I want to combine a power station and solar panel are safe and effective. But, I also want to learn how to figure these things out for myself for the future, based on the stats of power stations and panels.
I have an Elite 30 V2 power station (288 Wh). Its manual says I can charge via solar at up to 200 W. So I know I could get a 200 W panel for it. But I'm also interested in maximizing performance in low sun conditions like overcast. For example, I'm okay with having 400 W capacity providing me with 200 W of power during low sun conditions.
Can I get a 400 W panel and have it provide me with up to 200 W during low sun conditions, and then have it throttle to provide me with 200 W during optimal sun conditions?
Is it better to do this with one 400 W panel or two 200 W panels? If two panels, would I wire them in series or parallel?
What are the power station and panel stats that are relevant here? Volts? Amps?
Just purchased the Bluetti 300 Elite combo with the 2×200W panels and had a question about wiring.
From what I understand, wiring in series increases voltage while current stays the same, and wiring in parallel increases current while voltage stays the same.
Would it be safe to run these panels in series if the combined voltage is still under the Bluetti’s 60V solar input limit (looks like ~50V total)? My concern is whether there could be voltage spikes from colder weather or changing conditions that could push it over the limit and cause issues.
Curious what setup others are using and if series or parallel ended up working better in real-world use.
I keep an AC200L as emergency power source, and while not in use, it's serving as a giant UPS for my home internet setup (router, modem, unifi APs, cameras, etc.) I only realized after purchase that while it has a "UPS mode", it won't function entirely as a UPS during long power outages. After the power comes back, if the unit was entirely drained, it'll start charging again but will not turn on power output. Other devices from Bluetti do it properly, like the Elite series.
I built a tiny box with a 10$ ESP32 device to watch power, and detect if we came back from an outage and the ups is still off. If it's still off, it waits until it has a minimum state of charge (15%), and the uses Bluetooth to request it to turn back on.
Just paste your device ID in the config, flash it to a blank ESP32, and you got yourself an auto-restart. I' m sharing it here in case someone finds this useful.
https://github.com/LaurentPointCa/bluetti-ac200l-autorestart
Disclaimer: you're responsible for setting your own power devices. Be sure that if using this and auto-restart is enabled, that your attached devices will accept it. Same warning as the Elite devices have.
Hello everyone. I've been using a Bluetti AC200L in my camper van for week long trips and recently we added a DIY expansion golf cart battery. When we have high AC power draw the expansion battery will discharge. But when we only have things like 12V lights and refrigerator running the expansion battery does not discharge. Has anyone done further testing with this kind of set up? 95% of the time we only have a few low power draw DC things running so the expansion battery isnt discharging and I'm worried we spent all that money on a battery that isnt helping our electrical system. All youtube videos I've seen for DIY battery expansion do testing with high AC power draw. Any information is greatly appreciated.
Edit: We have a DC fuse block connected to the AC200L 12v connector. And the expansion battery is connected to the AC200L via the bidirectional power cable that comes with the Bluetti Charger 2
Hi. I live in a place with massive daily blackout. So I need the max out of my bluetti elite 200. Is it ok to charge to 100% every time?? I've read in couple of places it's best to set the max to 90-95% to preserve battery life. Help.
Hi, this is a two months old unit.
When I received I applied all the FW updates.
Two days ago it charged to 100%, I turned it off and since then I haven't been able of turning it on. I have tried everything, pressing all the buttons, connecting and disconnecting the AC input, putting a battery in the XT60 input. Nothing.
I'm in Venezuela and as you know, there were two really big earthquakes recently and well, I need it.
Any idea?
I bought the Bluetti elite 100 v2 a few months back as a dedicated UPS for my computer monitor, router and switches. With everything on it maxes out right around 300 W. Unfortunately today, when the power dipped for about 5 to 10 seconds my Amazon echo and my computer monitors all went dark, which means that the 10 ms switch overtime in reality was not realistic.
I can’t have that so should I just hang an APC or cyberpower ups off the end of the Bluetti units now? I don’t trust it at this point for proper UPS backup. I also had an elite 30 version two in my bedroom and that also rebooted the Amazon echo and that was supposed to have a 10 ms transfer time as well. I used to use only APC and Cyberpower true UPS and thought these power stations that are marketed for sub 10ms ups would be better. I figured longer runtime and time between replacement also longer. But they simply don’t do what I need them to do. I tossed 8 old UPS units and spent a lot to swap in all new power stations only to have to hang a real UPS off each one now.
I don’t need the longevity in my use case as much as the ups as I have backup generators for the home. So essentially I only need 15 seconds of runtime. Yes power stations were overkill in this context but if they did proper ups as they claim I felt it was just a margin of safety if generators failed
I thought if you set a time range for discharge it will discharge without drawing from the grid until the min SOC is met. And likewise if you set a time range for charge it will charge (instead of pass through) until the max SOC is reached. What am I missing here?
Hi. Bluetti elite 200 V2 owner here. Just bought two 615 watts solar panels. Hearing conflicting reports from people here I should use both or only one. Can someone help out?
Hi, I just got an Elite 100 V2. For a specific scenario, I will need to connect it to a portable 40W panel with DC5521 output. I was thinking on buying a DC5521-XT60 (M-F) adapter, and then a regular (M-F) XT60 extension. However, there are some scenarios where I might need more than 6 meters of length. I found a 6m extension available, but that wouldn't cover for 6m+ distances that I require.
Would a modular 3m+3m+3m extension be suitable? That would make it work on everything up 9 meters. I guess that moisture and humidity could be an issue on these connectors.
What's your opinion/solution on this? Thanks!
I have the Elite 200 v2. I'm using it for a campervan setup in a Toyota sienna. I charge it off the cars 1500W inverter. If I just plug it in it will charge at 1500W but I've been told constantly running the inverter at this level isn't good.
Is there a way to limit the charging speed other than silent, normal and turbo? I am currently using silent but I don't care about the noise and would kike the fan to run as needed to maintain the elite 200.
I got the new Fridgepower unit and overall it seems pretty great. However, I cannot get the unit to fit above the refrigerator and under the cabinets on top. It's darn close, but the lip of the cabinets protrude enough to stop me from being able to slide it under. Anyone else running into this issue? Short of completely disassembling the cabinets, I'm stumped for ideas.