u/TooManyInsults

Is this possible? Thanks for any suggestion.

I am asking here because I see so many people using these computers (which I really love)...

I wonder if anyone can tell me what are the items on the inside of the lid that I have outlined in the photo attached?

I ask because I was testing mine w/the cover off entirely and discovered that the BT, which had always worked great, started seriously under-performing. I put the cover back on and all seems fine again.

I have no idea if the attached Google AI is correct. But it made me wonder about the bits on the inside of the lid.

Thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/vbxbvkq8f1bh1.jpg?width=639&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d79da3546beb93d091efdadcacf3c9cc7710eca8

https://preview.redd.it/foj9gy0af1bh1.png?width=1080&format=png&auto=webp&s=75c6789c99d9e31ebcfcf60991128698bbde34e2

I purchased some of these pass-thru connectors. Then using two of these USB-C cables with their USB-A ends connected to either side of this thing, I connected one USB-C to my battery pack and the other to my Moto phone for charging. For reasons unclear to me, this did NOT WORK at all.

I then use the one of those cables with its USB-A connected to my battery pack into the USB-C port on this thing and connect the other side of the USB-C to my phone using a USB-C to USB-C cable and the phone DOES CHARGE.

Can someone explain to me why the first scenario does NOT WORK? All of the cables/phones/battery pack work fine otherwise. It is ONLY when connecting via the USB-A ports on this pass-through device that it does NOT work. I am stumped again!

Thanks.

We have 3 lines total. All started on annual plans. I am in the process of moving all three (I hope) to a shared pool. My 1st line is on the pool right now and has been for a couple months. It will renew in a couple days on the 4th.

The annual plan for the 2nd line will expire the 17th of this month. I am not sure if I need to (or if there is any real benefit to) having all the lines renew on the same date. If so, how to be achieve this?

Thanks

Anything like this exist for parallel LiFePO4 cells? I want to use it to power a 5v ESP32 camera project while simultaneously connected to a 5v USB panel or USB charger for keeping the battery topped up.

Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MML4YJV/?coliid=I34V7H8RNQVGF8&colid=3SC4CAEZDE6J2&psc=1&ref\_=list\_c\_wl\_lv\_ov\_lig\_dp\_it

In Tasker's global variable UI, I can long press an entry and choose clear - but only if the variable is NOT an array.

I have found no other way to clear such array variables other than creating a temporary, single step task with a clear variable action in it.

Am I missing something? It seems like clearing an array variable in the UI should be possible - perhaps with a confirm since we cannot see the variable's value in the UI if it is an array - but I cannot seem to accomplish this.

Thanks

I am a big fan of the now-disused Widgetify app. And I see reference to the availability of Webview in Scenes V2. Is there some what to reproduce the functions of Widgetify using Widgets V2?

One thing I would really want to do is to crop the rendered HTML so that only part of a full page might be shown in the widget. Widgetify does that using an off-screen Webview, capturing an bitmap of the rendering result, and manipulating the bitmap - which it then shows in the widget.

I have also used an pretty cool app called MetaWidget but that is an all-together different mechanism.

Thanks!

Wife's 1980 244. Has ballast resistor in line before the coil. It is sometimes hard to start - usually after sitting for days. Cranks well but no other action. Then at a later time, it starts right up. In trying to chase down this problem I have been trying to check voltage at the coil with respect to ground (always using the same ground point).

If I disconnect the blue wire to the ballast resistor and turn the key on (not running/starting), I see battery voltage on the blue wire.

If I re-connect the blue wire to the ballast resistor and probe the resistor's blade with the key on, I see less than battery voltage - around 11.5v. Perhaps this is the influence of the resistor itself sucking away power?

If I probe the brown wire/positive terminal on the coil and crank the engine, I see 8-9v. When the engine starts and is actually running, I see about 12v.

I know almost nothing about the ballast resistor, etc. But at Dave Barton's great page on the subject, it seems like I am getting the opposite of what I think I should. It reads:

"The purpose of this ballast resistor was to reduce voltage to the coil from 12+ volts to about 9 volts during normal engine running."

I worry about this because of this statement on the same page:

"Reportedly if you were to allow a 9 volt coil to run with a full 12+volts constantly, the coil could fail prematurely from over-heating or possibly the extra voltage could damage the ignition amplifier or control unit."

Once running, all seems fine otherwise. As the no-start is intermittent, I have not yet been able to check for spark on the coil wire. But I will try to do so when I can.

The wiring diagram show the coil's positive terminal/brown wire gets supplied from 2 sources: the starter motor (for the 12v when cranking, I suppose) and the "normal" power through the resistor from the fuse box (to give the reduced 9v when running, I suppose).

So:

(a) Is what I am seeing with voltage correct/expected?

(b) If not, how do I find the source of the unexpected voltages at the coil?

(c) Should the very expensive ballast resistor be replaced? The coil too?

(d) Is this the cause of the intermittent no-start?

Thanks for all!

I am trying to figure out why my wife's car sometimes simply will not start. It always cranks but sometimes I get nothing else. Not all the time. No pattern I can discern. Can happen in cold or hot weather. But always after the car has been sitting for multiple days.

When this happens, I have tried:

1. Putting a test light on the output coil connector and looking for flashing while cranking. At times I get none. When it finally decides to start, I do get it.

2. In switch run position, the voltage delivered to the ballast resistor and then to the coil input connector is showing 11.8V and it surprises me that it is not the battery's 12.5+ volts. Even after it has begun to start again, I still get only 11.8V on this wire.

3. Voltage out at the ballast resistor coming to the coil in run position is 8.4-8.9V which I understand is fairly "right" as the target when running is 9V.

4. With #5 fuse removed, I have jumped #7 left to 5 left and right to run in-tank and main pump in isolation. I hear noise from each.

5. I removed and replaced the gas tank cap to ensure it is not vapor lock.

6. I checked around for loose connections and such. Found nothing.

At some point while doing all this the car suddenly started to catch and run. It really started to run slowly at first and then ramped up to normal idle.

At some point during all of this I definitely smelled gas while sitting in the driver seat with the door and hood open. I shut down and checked at exhaust pipe, engine compartment, and under the car. Saw no leaks or other signs and could not be sure from whence the smell came. Smell disappeared quickly.

I replaced the fuel relay in 2022 with an Urago one. At that time, I was getting similar behavior but I cannot recall all the details. I am not convinced the Urago is a good brand but that was all I could find at the time. Perhaps it has gone bad already?

Suggestions? Thanks

To summarize this post (which has gotten a bit off-track):

1. In 2022 I installed a garage heater kit in this machine along with an indicator LED and a toggle switch. At the same time, I installed new defrost timer, defrost sensor, and temp control. These have all been working, seemingly just fine, since that time. But I have not had a temp sensor in the fridge box until earlier this year - only in the freezer. So I cannot be 100% sure.
2. When I first started noticing, around mid-May, that the fridge box was not getting cold enough (40-42)I had recently turned the heater kit OFF since it is not needed when the garage temps (which I also monitor) are higher. This has been usual for me since it was installed in 2022 and I have never seen any side-effects of doing so.
3. In my recent testing, I tried turning the temp control full-on (5 - coldest) to see if that had any effect. It did and things got cooler. In the freezer - much cooler - but also some temp decline in the fridge box. As a result, however, the unit ended up running constantly for several hours - which I understand is not expected or good for the unit.
4. I turned the temp control down one "notch" (to 4 out of 5, as I recall) and, as expected, temps did start to rise again. But the unit immediately stopped running constantly.
5. I decided to then turn the heater kit switch back on to see what happened. At that moment, the unit was not running. But as soon as I flipped the switch, it started up immediately and illuminated the LED indicating that power was going to the heater.
6. After having done this a day and a half ago, the behavior of the unit has been fairly "normal" with fridge/freezer temps staying fairly constant at 38/0. And the unit is NOT running constantly. It runs for about 30 minutes followed by about 1 hour off. I am not sure how "normal" this is. But I can readily see the changes in current being pulled (see graph below).
7. I have monitored the feel of the plastic housing that contains the heater. It never gets really warm/hot but I can definitely tell when the heater is on (as indicated by the LED as well) and off. So I do not think there is some run-away heater problem - although I have read about them occurring sometimes.
8. Everything but the fridge box seems "normal" enough. I feel no air leaks around the doors and inspected the seals visually. The timer is rotating as expected. I see no frost or signs of moisture anywhere. There is little ice on the evaporator and what is there looks pretty sugar-like and even to me (see photos below). The temps of both the compressor and the condenser have remained about the same when the unit is running (105/95) I have seen the current jump from 1.2 amps to over 3 amps a couple times for a period of 10-15 minutes before falling back to 0.02 amps or so. I am presuming this was the defrost heater going to work. If so, given the fairly short time involved, it would seem that the defrost sensor is at least preventing a run-away defrost cycle.

All of this makes me wonder about the thermostat. After all, it is the component most affected, I think, by the heater being put into/out of service. Also, when set to the maximum (coldest) the unit ran constantly - apparently never satisfying the temp control unit's demand - which seemed strange (however, I do not know what the target temp of this setting might be).

But my reading seems to suggest that these fail either stuck on or off. And mine is still clearly cycling. Can they just loose their calibration?

Thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/jo9h8hhy836h1.jpg?width=736&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dc56afaf8f91eda235e6aa52ed88bc828da4d79b

https://preview.redd.it/1v9pfwkq936h1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9e7fa7c8ee080bf4873281d64852385bd19d660c

https://preview.redd.it/a7zcykus936h1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=39837dceba53f9b3343e5a918d975ebf19fb5e8a

I am a newbie but not without some willingness to make the effort to DIY. We have a Kenmore 253.6419240D that we have used in our garage since maybe 2007-8. It is not our main fridge obviously, but it has performed super well.

Recent problems with our main fridge made me install wireless thermometers to monitor them. Since doing so, I have noticed that the Kenmore box, while able to get/keep 5-10 degrees F in the freezer compartment, simply cannot seem to reach much under 43 degrees F in the fridge box. The ambient air temps are not higher than 70 degrees F.

I have checked out all of the "usual suspects":

* Both fans (upper and lower) are running just fine. I visually confirmed this. And I can feel air moving into the fridge box.

* The condenser radiator (I think that is the proper term) is not all iced-up and defrost water seems to be flowing away and NOT leaving a glacier behind. So I am sure the defrost is being run. And I have NOT felt the heating element remain heated all the time.

* I checked the simple damper located in the cold air pathway to make sure it was rotating properly with the knob. And I tried changing the position - allowing, in theory I think, for more of the cold air to leave the freezer into the fridge box. This made no difference at all.

* Of course, I checked everything for accumulated dust/dirt. I was amazed that things were not more filthy/clogged than they were. It really was not bad. But I cleaned everything in the compressor area anyhow.

* I put a watt meter on the power cord and I can see, when the compressor runs, it is pulling about 1.25 amps. When not running it is so low as to be un-measurable.

* I used my IR thermometer on the compressor housing and on the coils nearby. The compressor, when running for a while, is about 110 degrees F. The coils around 85 degrees F.

* I visually inspected the sealed system for signs of coolant leakage. I sought any oil-ish film anywhere and found none. I saw in a video to look for greenish corrosion and saw almost nothing but a tiny bit at the top of the left-most component - no idea what that is - seen in the first of the photos:

https://preview.redd.it/tvgtlplqtj5h1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=07eac3495fc8a2786e8d508cb714d9b93b795614

https://preview.redd.it/co45gplqtj5h1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=361c4562a352b68feda7116a5a552cbf3e8b1a09

* I searched for bad door seals. Found none.

* I listened for clicks and sounds like running/dripping water. I heard what seems like normal start relay clicks and some trickling sounds which I take to be condensing coolant in the system.

* I used multiple different thermometers to cross-verify the temp readings inside the boxes.

So I really am at a loss to explain, no less fix, this issue. I eagerly await suggestions and the revelation of my ignorance 😄

Thanks!

This is rooted, A12, Moto XT2215-4.

I know already about the VPN Connected state. That is really not what I want and I saw in the docs here that the Test Net function can return VPN:

Possible Connection Types are none, mobile, wifi, mms, supl, dun, hipri, wimax, bluetooth, dummy, ethernet, and vpn.

So I was hoping that when on mobile data with Tailscale enabled, I would get vpn. But I get mobile - which is true, of course.

I suppose it is possible to have a vpn piggyback on most other forms of connection (at least ethernet, wifi, mobile). Indeed, it strikes me that a vpn MUST - by definition - use an underlying network.

So is there a problem of "precedence" here? It seems to me, perhaps wrongly, that if a vpn is indeed connected, that the value of vpn should be returned (not the underlying network) if only one value can be returned.

I have an image in my KLWP where the path is defined via a formula hard-coded to /sdcard/WaterMeter/current_image.jpg. It seems to get resolved and displayed inside the editor as expected all the time.

But I cannot help but note that in the wallpaper itself - outside of the editor - sometimes it is not displayed. I know the file is there and can be opened/displayed in another app like Gallery. In fact, if I put a touch on the image I can set it to open the image in a different app.

Yet sometimes it simply will not display. I cannot find a pattern for when it will and when it will not.

Anyone else see this? Any fixes? Thanks!

While I have been using KLWP for some time now, I have only started to use the Favorite Formulas feature. So I am a newbie in this sense.

1. Is there some way, independent of entering a formula for a global, that I can get at these? For example, to add, modify, delete?

2. Is there some way to access these when entering a formula inside of a flow?

I cannot seem to do either.

Thanks!

I am running a subnet from a Windows computer on my LAN. I connect to it from an Android phone. I was having trouble with things while I had the Afwall+ firewall in place and active on the phone. I have since cleanly removed it and then used iptables -F and iptables -X to clear out any rules that might have been left behind. So I think I have eliminated the Afwall confusion.

But I am having very inconsistent results with the subnet access from the phone. At times, it works perfectly and the phone can access IPs on the LAN remarkably well over mobile data. This is so cool! But then there are other times when the subnet (or at least major parts of it) fail to work at all! I cannot find a pattern to this (yet).

All the while, the Tailscale dashboard indicates that all are as they seem to be. I am always able to tailscale ping between the Tailscale IPs. Somtimes, I can regular ping at least some of them. I understand that regular ping can be a problem though. So I am not surprised - more like ecstatic when it does work 😄

Is this a common situation or is it just me? Thanks!

Discussed in more detail here under a less specific title...

In summary, on the Moto XT2215-4/Android 12 phone in question, the command ip route show table all | grep "192.168" produces no result when it is connected to mobile data and Tailscale is enabled.

On an Android 8 LG V40, otherwise configured the same, it produces:

192.168.1.0/24 dev tun0 table tun0 proto static scope link

So I get no LAN access on the Moto while I do on the LG.

I have no idea why this should be or how to "fix" it.

Suggestions? Thanks!

After all sorts of hard-won gyrations (described here), I now have Tailscale installed, with a subnet router running on a Windows 10 machine on my home LAN, and with the home LAN subnet being accessible from 2 different Android phones (LG V40 with A9 and Moto G5S+ with A8) using the same SIM to provide mobile data. It works easily and great. It is just amazing!

However, in this process, I have discovered that my daily driver Android phone (Moto XT2215-4 with A12 using the exact same SIM) simply cannot get access to the subnet. It is connecting, as far as I can tell, to Tailscale just fine. I can see it in the admin page. I can tailscale ping from the router machine to the phone and vis-vis (inside the app) using their Tailscale IPs. But try as I might, I cannot seem to reach the subnet from that one phone.

I have tried to perform a traceroute (tracert on Windows) from the subnet machine to the phone's Tailscale IP and vis-vis. On Windows, I get 30 request timeouts. On the phone, I get "sendto: Operation not permitted".

If I try to "normal" ping from the phone to the server's Tailscale IP, I get nothing but "Destination Port Unreachable". Going the other way, I get nothing but timeouts. If I try to ping the phone's mobile data IP (100.66.252.70) from the server I get nothing but timeouts. If I try to ping the server's LAN IP from the phone, I get nothing at all - not even timeouts - until I control-C and it then says 63 packets transmitted, 100% loss.

I am at a loss to explain this behavior or even how to proceed in order to fix it. I am open to any ideas on how to further diagnose and fix this. Thanks in advance for your time and advice.

I thought it might be setting up an exit node and subnet router on a tailscale installed on an always-running Windows machine within the LAN.

But once I finished setting this up, I tried to access a web server at a LAN IP from my tailscale connected (via mobile data) phone and got nowhere.

I am a total newbie to tailscale. So it seems likely I am messing things up.

Thanks

Been using Tasker for years and years. Lately, on one my machines, when I enter Tasker I see many of these in the popup window. I would like to try and track them down and see if I can do anything about them.

So I have been looking into both the runlog and tasker.txt files...

In the latter, I can see this:

14-05-2026 T: 06.34.08#m#T: LOG: E: 06.33.37#b#E: warning: java.util.concurrent.TimeoutException: The source did not signal an event for 15000 milliseconds and has been terminated.

So I thought I should look to see what is happening at that date/time in the same file and there is a ton of stuff. So much that reddit will not allow me to post it.

Thankfully, in the runlog, there is far less at the same date/time:

20260514 06.34.08 A OK ID357:4366.4 Bulldog Get Info.Wait

20260514 06.34.08 A OK ID202:4380.2 Guardian Is Online.Run Shell, Guardian Is Online

20260514 06.34.08 A OK ID357:4366.4 Bulldog Get Info.Wait

20260514 06.34.08 A OK ID202:4380.3 Guardian Is Online.Return, Guardian Is Online

20260514 06.34.08 T ExitOK ID202:4380 Guardian Is Online

20260514 06.34.08 A OK ID371:4379.3 Guardian Get Paired Sensors Info.If

20260514 06.34.08 T Running ID206:4381 Guardian Get Paired Sensors

20260514 06.34.08 A OK ID371:4379.11 Guardian Get Paired Sensors Info.Perform Task, Guardian Get Paired Sensors

20260514 06.34.08 A OK ID206:4381.1 Guardian Get Paired Sensors.If

20260514 06.34.08 A OK ID206:4381.8 Guardian Get Paired Sensors.Var Set, %cmd="command":48

20260514 06.34.08 T Running ID220:4382 Guardian Send Command

20260514 06.34.08 A OK ID206:4381.9 Guardian Get Paired Sensors.Perform Task, Guardian Send Command

20260514 06.34.08 A OK ID220:4382.1 Guardian Send Command.Var Set, %count=0

So is there some reasonable way to try and figure out what Tasker is doing when the timeout error occurs?

Thanks!

I am running TC on an Android x86 v9 install inside of a virtual box hosted on Windows 10. I have been using it for some time now. I have it configured to send email on Person detection and to trigger a Tasker event (on the same machine) when connection is lost.

Just yesterday, I swapped out the camera I had showing our driveway. And I replaced it with one of these. Both were sending rtsp but the newer one is perhaps a higher resolution.

Since then, I am finding that with each person detection email sent, I start getting connection lost events firing in Tasker. I often get more than one Tasker firing per email sent.

Once the activity is over, things settle down and the connection seems to remain quite stead for long periods of time.

Although I have long had plenty of connection lost triggers from this camera most distant from my router (I had them even when there was a repeater in between - which is now removed). But not in this very apparent pattern.

Any suggestions as to what is going wrong and how I might fix it?

Thanks