u/TooManyInsults

Akin to the post here but perhaps a little different enough to warrant this...

In my case, I am searching for HTTP Request items in my current Tasker configuration.

The problem comes because a have ALOT of them - mostly in the form of Actions but also some in the form of Profiles.

Digging through the search results to find the Profiles buried along with all of the Actions is a real PIA. It would be so great if there was a way to filter Action/Profile/Variable!

I have tried, for example, searching "event: HTTP Request:" - which is how these are labeled in the search results - when I can actually find them. But that yields no search results whatsoever. I have tried all of the various options (contains, etc) to no avail.

Perhaps there is some other way to do this? Thanks!

Thinking to get some of these for a parallel battery pack. But I generally avoid cells where:

(a) the maH claims are excessive

(b) the cell weight is below what I expect to see

The claim here of 6500 maH is highly questionable to me. But the weight at 140g matches some decent cells I have been using.

Thanks for any tips.

I admit that I am asking here before trying it myself. Just wonder if someone else has checked this out.

Thanks!

Bottom of this page. Thanks

I am really new to Widget v2. It is really interesting and valuable. Thanks!

Seems I have to tap the checkmark for changes to a v2 widget's layout to take effect when I run the task that sets the layout.

This doesn't seem right/normal to me.

Anyone else notice this? Thanks

I have been using KLWP for some time now and I have a wallpaper with many Komponents each of which has several flows running on a regular basis triggered by data format changes (rather than cron - which did not seem to work as well).

I have been having problems after making changes to my wallpapers in the editor. After making/saving ANY change in my wallpaper in the editor, I find that the entire operation of my wallpaper goes whacky - forcing me to reboot my phone in order to clear out the log jam. It has been this way for a while now - certainly over 6 months. But there has been no change in this over time and perhaps it is getting even worse.

Since wallpaper development, at least for me, consists of a series of MANY iterations/changes over time, having to reboot the phone every single time just to see the results of my most recent changes has become intolerable for me.

Has others encountered this? Any suggestions on how to avoid this? Thanks

As seen here? I am confused about the precise size. It says "32650 3.2V 6000mAh LiFePO4 battery 32700 6500mAh". Cannot be both, obviously. In my limited past experience, getting anything more than 6aH in one of these is indeed rare. So the claim of 6.5aH makes me suspicious. Seems like the higher the capacity claim, the lower quality cells seem to be. Thanks for any light you can shed.

Hello and thanks in advance for any suggestions. I have a Win10 host with 2 virtual boxes running (one Android x86 and the other Unbuntu). The host is connected to my Asus router via ethernet. Both virtual boxes have networking configured as shown here.

I have found that if the router is power cycled both virtual boxes keep running fine in all aspects except that their networking breaks - stops working entirely. The UI's networking indicator keeps flashing and there is no sign of any error or abnormal condition. But there is no networking happening either in or outbound.

In order to remedy this situation, I have found that, if I terminate and re-start the virtual boxes upon the router's restart, they come up with all networking as normal again.

Please note that this only happens on a power cycle. I have the router set to reboot nightly and this does NOT seem to have this effect.

So, is there something I can do to "protect" the networking in these virtual boxes?

If not, is there some way to detect the router power cycle so I can create a Task Manager job to restart the virtual boxes? If so, I do not want to do it for reboots, only for the power cycles.

Thanks so much!

I have been using the Android app for years. It is up to date with Play Store. Suddenly, this morning, it will not login/authenticate. I can use the website - doing that here. I have uninstalled/re-installed. No difference. What is going on here? Thanks!

Is this possible? Thanks for any suggestion.

I am asking here because I see so many people using these computers (which I really love)...

I wonder if anyone can tell me what are the items on the inside of the lid that I have outlined in the photo attached?

I ask because I was testing mine w/the cover off entirely and discovered that the BT, which had always worked great, started seriously under-performing. I put the cover back on and all seems fine again.

I have no idea if the attached Google AI is correct. But it made me wonder about the bits on the inside of the lid.

Thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/vbxbvkq8f1bh1.jpg?width=639&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d79da3546beb93d091efdadcacf3c9cc7710eca8

https://preview.redd.it/foj9gy0af1bh1.png?width=1080&format=png&auto=webp&s=75c6789c99d9e31ebcfcf60991128698bbde34e2

I purchased some of these pass-thru connectors. Then using two of these USB-C cables with their USB-A ends connected to either side of this thing, I connected one USB-C to my battery pack and the other to my Moto phone for charging. For reasons unclear to me, this did NOT WORK at all.

I then use the one of those cables with its USB-A connected to my battery pack into the USB-C port on this thing and connect the other side of the USB-C to my phone using a USB-C to USB-C cable and the phone DOES CHARGE.

Can someone explain to me why the first scenario does NOT WORK? All of the cables/phones/battery pack work fine otherwise. It is ONLY when connecting via the USB-A ports on this pass-through device that it does NOT work. I am stumped again!

Thanks.

We have 3 lines total. All started on annual plans. I am in the process of moving all three (I hope) to a shared pool. My 1st line is on the pool right now and has been for a couple months. It will renew in a couple days on the 4th.

The annual plan for the 2nd line will expire the 17th of this month. I am not sure if I need to (or if there is any real benefit to) having all the lines renew on the same date. If so, how to be achieve this?

Thanks

Anything like this exist for parallel LiFePO4 cells? I want to use it to power a 5v ESP32 camera project while simultaneously connected to a 5v USB panel or USB charger for keeping the battery topped up.

Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MML4YJV/?coliid=I34V7H8RNQVGF8&colid=3SC4CAEZDE6J2&psc=1&ref\_=list\_c\_wl\_lv\_ov\_lig\_dp\_it

In Tasker's global variable UI, I can long press an entry and choose clear - but only if the variable is NOT an array.

I have found no other way to clear such array variables other than creating a temporary, single step task with a clear variable action in it.

Am I missing something? It seems like clearing an array variable in the UI should be possible - perhaps with a confirm since we cannot see the variable's value in the UI if it is an array - but I cannot seem to accomplish this.

Thanks

I am a big fan of the now-disused Widgetify app. And I see reference to the availability of Webview in Scenes V2. Is there some what to reproduce the functions of Widgetify using Widgets V2?

One thing I would really want to do is to crop the rendered HTML so that only part of a full page might be shown in the widget. Widgetify does that using an off-screen Webview, capturing an bitmap of the rendering result, and manipulating the bitmap - which it then shows in the widget.

I have also used an pretty cool app called MetaWidget but that is an all-together different mechanism.

Thanks!

Wife's 1980 244. Has ballast resistor in line before the coil. It is sometimes hard to start - usually after sitting for days. Cranks well but no other action. Then at a later time, it starts right up. In trying to chase down this problem I have been trying to check voltage at the coil with respect to ground (always using the same ground point).

If I disconnect the blue wire to the ballast resistor and turn the key on (not running/starting), I see battery voltage on the blue wire.

If I re-connect the blue wire to the ballast resistor and probe the resistor's blade with the key on, I see less than battery voltage - around 11.5v. Perhaps this is the influence of the resistor itself sucking away power?

If I probe the brown wire/positive terminal on the coil and crank the engine, I see 8-9v. When the engine starts and is actually running, I see about 12v.

I know almost nothing about the ballast resistor, etc. But at Dave Barton's great page on the subject, it seems like I am getting the opposite of what I think I should. It reads:

"The purpose of this ballast resistor was to reduce voltage to the coil from 12+ volts to about 9 volts during normal engine running."

I worry about this because of this statement on the same page:

"Reportedly if you were to allow a 9 volt coil to run with a full 12+volts constantly, the coil could fail prematurely from over-heating or possibly the extra voltage could damage the ignition amplifier or control unit."

Once running, all seems fine otherwise. As the no-start is intermittent, I have not yet been able to check for spark on the coil wire. But I will try to do so when I can.

The wiring diagram show the coil's positive terminal/brown wire gets supplied from 2 sources: the starter motor (for the 12v when cranking, I suppose) and the "normal" power through the resistor from the fuse box (to give the reduced 9v when running, I suppose).

So:

(a) Is what I am seeing with voltage correct/expected?

(b) If not, how do I find the source of the unexpected voltages at the coil?

(c) Should the very expensive ballast resistor be replaced? The coil too?

(d) Is this the cause of the intermittent no-start?

Thanks for all!

I am trying to figure out why my wife's car sometimes simply will not start. It always cranks but sometimes I get nothing else. Not all the time. No pattern I can discern. Can happen in cold or hot weather. But always after the car has been sitting for multiple days.

When this happens, I have tried:

1. Putting a test light on the output coil connector and looking for flashing while cranking. At times I get none. When it finally decides to start, I do get it.

2. In switch run position, the voltage delivered to the ballast resistor and then to the coil input connector is showing 11.8V and it surprises me that it is not the battery's 12.5+ volts. Even after it has begun to start again, I still get only 11.8V on this wire.

3. Voltage out at the ballast resistor coming to the coil in run position is 8.4-8.9V which I understand is fairly "right" as the target when running is 9V.

4. With #5 fuse removed, I have jumped #7 left to 5 left and right to run in-tank and main pump in isolation. I hear noise from each.

5. I removed and replaced the gas tank cap to ensure it is not vapor lock.

6. I checked around for loose connections and such. Found nothing.

At some point while doing all this the car suddenly started to catch and run. It really started to run slowly at first and then ramped up to normal idle.

At some point during all of this I definitely smelled gas while sitting in the driver seat with the door and hood open. I shut down and checked at exhaust pipe, engine compartment, and under the car. Saw no leaks or other signs and could not be sure from whence the smell came. Smell disappeared quickly.

I replaced the fuel relay in 2022 with an Urago one. At that time, I was getting similar behavior but I cannot recall all the details. I am not convinced the Urago is a good brand but that was all I could find at the time. Perhaps it has gone bad already?

Suggestions? Thanks