
u/TopConcentrate8484

Why are there no DIY clones/alternative to skyrc MC3000 or MC5000
$100-120 (₹10k-12k) product still missing a lot a features the new version mc5000 what they call an upgrade isn't actually a upgrade
So are there any DIY alternatives to this all I see is some single bay,single chemistry ones not a true alternative
Apart from a good color display the MC5000 is actually a downgrade and still is always $50 (₹5k) more expensive than MC3000, they removed the single port temperature sensor , has built in PSU so you cannot use any DC input like the previous one
What I think will be a true alternative can be :
- Most features of MC3000
- Color display
- Physical input with no touch screen or a touch screen but also has physical button input
- Usb c pd input along with a DC jack
- Wifi support along with bluetooth for connectivity
- Holds memory even after a power off
- support for longer batteries (protected 21700s ,mc5000 has this )
- A true Internal resistance tester with AC impedance at 1khz
- Internal storage for some graphs
Helping hands
credits - YouTube Ayush_FunTech
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A ₹60 battery vs ₹20 battery | Duracell ultra vs EverReady ultima
very slight capacity difference but huge price difference
more info here - https://www.youtube.com/shorts/0BHYHcGpeCI
Fitgirl's site has been down because of DDoS attack for quite long now , it's almost been 12-15hrs
A Distributed Denial of Service (DDoS) attack is a malicious attempt to disrupt the normal traffic of a targeted server, service, or network. Attackers achieve this by overwhelming the target with a massive flood of Internet traffic from multiple compromised sources (source)
Should memes/humor post be allowed in this subreddit ?
This sub was originally ment to maintain a serious tone and memes were not allowed. However, it feels a bit restrictive and may be missing opportunity for members to share observations, humor content that is relevant to India and understood by this niche community
AA Battery Capacity Test: Nippo vs. Eveready vs. Duracell (The cheapest brand won!)
Nippo surprisingly won with 2114mAh even though it is the cheapest and also has the highest profit margins for retailers
| Brand | Capacity in mAh | Runtime H:M | Rupee per 1000 mAh |
|---|---|---|---|
| Nippo | 2114👑 | 8h25m | ₹9.46/Ah |
| Eveready ultima alkaline | 2080 | 8h30m | ₹9.61/Ah |
| Duracell | 1714 | 7h14m | ₹14.58/Ah |
| Eveready zinc carbon | 531 | 2h11m | ₹30.13/Ah |
I suggest you to buy EverReady or Nippo and avoid Duracell as duracell leaks are more common
thanks to u/simplefreak88 for his comment both Nippo thor and EverReady ultima are from the same manufacturer (GPPD energy) and are imported from Vietnam so most probably both are the same batteries under the sticker only 34mAh difference so it won't be wrong to assume it is ,so buy whichever you find the cheapest
the test was done with a capacity tester with a constant current load of 250mA which is a pretty generous amount of current for such AA primary cells
Note:nippo can be purchased for cheaper ₹15-18 in pack of 12
YouTube has increased the thumbnail size for side bar suggestions and reduced the title size
They have also shifted the position of three dot menu, so it has become difficult to add videos to queue or save to watch later
Peter why have so many memes lately been using those weird, unsettling images hidden in the background at low opacity?
it's not about the highlighter , is it just as a watermark
Yeh there's a sub with 700k member for just that
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5k Reached: 5,000+ members on r/Electronicsinindia
Thank you all for joining
Is there any drop in PCB/module available in the Indian market to replace Micro USB with USB Type-C?
I am okay with desoldering the existing Micro USB port, but I want an easy drop in replacement for USB Type-C.
Using USB-C only for power is simple, but handling data transfer wiring is a bit complicated for me, so I am looking for a ready made PCB/module that can directly replace a Micro USB port with minimal modification
Which Indian electronics YouTubers "actually" teach and do electronics, i will go first:
Most electronics channels here focus mainly on repetitive repair/assembly (majduri) work, but these are some creators that actually explain concepts, design circuits, and use their brains instead
List is in no particular order:
- https://www.youtube.com/@FreeCircuitLab (Best)
- https://www.youtube.com/@MobileDoctorMIJANUR
- https://www.youtube.com/@haseebelectronicsurdu
- https://www.youtube.com/@totalcircuit
- https://www.youtube.com/@DDelectroTechECE
- https://www.youtube.com/@TheWildElectron
- https://www.youtube.com/@mrelectron_alternator
- https://www.youtube.com/@ELECRAFT_
- https://www.youtube.com/@ElectricDhamaka
- https://www.youtube.com/@WhatIThink
Most of us Indian electronics hobbyists started with this legendary yellow multimeter (DT-830D)
Prices of almost everything have gone up, but this thing still ₹150
One i have got here is a clone "UNTTY" the original is actually quite a bit better assuming it was used properly and not sacrificed to mains voltage on the buzzer mode
The pre-lockdown versions (around 2019–2020) were noticeably better built and surprisingly more resilient for the price they had a proper PTC, some protection resistors, and overall was less disposable you can still occasionally find the original for around the same ₹150 price, but it’s very hit or miss now, I think the original was commonly sold under the HAOYUE brand name
Most of the important differences only become obvious once you open it which is not possible while purchase as they come in a those plastic shell packages one easy cosmetic clue though is that the original usually had properly printed symbols and markings while most clones use stickers
Even the rotary selector changed. The older design used a ball-bearing dent mechanism, while the newer clones replaced it with these plastic ridges that click into place. It works, but honestly the older ball-bearing design felt way smoother and more solid
The current shunt this is a joke
That said no matter which version you get one wrong setting one wrong measurement and it’s over no repairs, no troubleshooting, nothing Everything is controlled by single blob chip so once that dies the multimeter basically becomes electronic waste