It's been 3 weeks since relaxing - I want to use permanent color (black to black). Will this result in better color penetration since my hair is probably way more porous from the relaxer?
Or will this result in the color leaking out quicker after I use it since the hair is more porous from the relaxer?
I have 2 systems - the upstairs unit is zoned for the 2nd and 3rd floors. During the spring maintenance check, the tech said my older Honeywell zoning motors "can be updated to allow for bypass into the house instead of the system."
What does that mean? He said if I update it, the "bypass air will go to the 3rd floor when the 2nd floor is running and the 3rd floor zone may not even need to turn on."
I am thinking about a Convoy T6 with the MAO coating in white color. How tough is this coating for daily use, and how does it stand up to the elements like sun and rain? Looking this up online, it's ceramic and extremely wear resistant to the elements it says.
I am intrigued by the white color and wanted to try one out.
Is Hair Razor really all that great and better than using No Lye Hair Relaxer? Their 3 step cleaning method and the BTAR shampoo?
Several ppl post on here acting like it's the best thing since sliced bread, but when you ask about how many uses and how frequent their alcohol and drug use was......crickets, no answer at all.
After a mobile detailer came by for a Mother's Day gift, the car started to beep and says "Check Parking Sensor" on the dash. I tried the 10 second button reset, but it still stays on. I did some trick by turning the headlights on and off in the garage and it went away, but came back the next time I turned on the engine.
I notice that the green light on the button doesn't work. The button is just dead, pushing it doesn't do anything. Does the no light on the button mean it's the bulb that is causing the circuit to cause a fault? I checked all around the sensors around the van and they look clean and not damaged.
I'm going on a road trip and can't wait for a genuine Honda part. I ordered this off Amazon and it's coming today - Switch Bulb Fit for Honda Odyssey 2011-2017 Replace#35855-TK8-A01 - Will this do?
I'll search for instructions on YouTube I guess on how to change it. Anything else I should be looking at, trying to avoid the dealer. If this is the issue, What kind of engineer designed the system like that the entire thing shuts down due to a switch bulb?
It's spring in NC, so the A/C doesn't run much nor the heater. Is this why I have more springtails jumping around in my toilet and sink? Because the central A/C is not keeping the humidity down?
Or too much sludge build up in the drains where the springtails are feeding off? Should I pour bleach down the drain? Boiling hot water? Or would an enzyme drain cleaner work the best like Green Gobler/Zep?
How do I handle the toilet - same why, enzyme down toilet?
If I'm using L'Oréal box permanent hair color Soft Black, and my hair is already naturally black, why do I still need hydrogen peroxide?
Wouldn't the ammonia help lift the cuticle and allow the pigment to enter? Should I use something without hydrogen peroxide if going from black to black? Or is the oxidation power of hydrogen peroxide still needed to open the cuticle and let the new pigment inside?
If I'm using L'Oréal box permanent hair color Soft Black, and my hair is already naturally black, why do I still need hydrogen peroxide?
Wouldn't the ammonia help lift the cuticle and allow the pigment to enter? Should I use something without hydrogen peroxide if going from black to black? Or is the oxidation power of hydrogen peroxide still needed to open the cuticle and let the new pigment inside?
I accidently left the S2 in too long to get it shipwrecked! I had taken out the battery, but no other electronics. I put the battery in and it started right back up!
Stripped the protective coating (best I could, don't think I got it all) with 0000 steel wool and it's been in this ammonia bucket with salt with a lid on it for over 15 days. Sprayed it with RustOleum clearcoat.
Blue/Green color is so vibrant!
Is buying hair razor detox to get rid of alcohol ETG in hair legit. Many ppl say it works - the 1st step is a very alkaline to bust open the cuticle and then next steps are oxidizing agents. Is it legit?
Or just do no lye relaxer and call it a day?
So a friend recently bought (after so much effort, time and money), an Okluma dc0 flashlight, the "DLC" version. It appears black. I think it has a Titanium base? I looked it up and it translates to "Diamond-like Carbon coating."
Anyone heard of this - does DLC stand for Diamond like Carbon coating? A google search says it is a "carbon material that combines properties of diamond and graphite, providing extreme hardness, low friction, and high wear resistance."
I did all this work with no headlight, I did it with this standalone Fenix LD35R that can stand and has side lights. It was not easy, but this device got me through.
It also was crushed, stopped and slung in rocks and dirt, bit the thing is built like a tank. I don't think you can break it.
I will be keeping this in my newly sealed crawlspace just as a backup, although I think it deserves and can handle tougher tasks.
What is best and highly rated brand these days for a crawlspace dehumidifier? In the past, Santa Fe and AprilAire were the best. I've had experience with Santa Fe failing after 4-5 years anyway. How long have people's AprilAire units lasted?
Things have gotten a little tricky as Santa Fe has bought AprilAire I heard.
What about brands that are lower in cost such as AlorAir - these are around $400-500 but even it lasts a little shorter than the others, it's worth it.
I recently had my crawlspace encapsulated, so maybe a dehumidifier will last much longer (before I only had the vents sealed). I know have a 12 mil reinforced vapor barrier on the floor, up the walls, on all piers, with insulation on all of the walls, insulation on the joist outside band. My downstairs furnace and air handler is located in the crawlspace so wanted to create a good environment for it and HVAC techs go down there so it's nice and clean for them now.
These are the ones I was curious about:
Santa Fe Oasis105
Santa Fe AdvanceDry110
AprilAire E100
AlorAir Sentinel HD55
I have an encapsulated crawlspace, 12 mil-reinforced vapor barrier on the ground, walls, taped and sealed, CrawlBarrier insulation on the walls, spray foamed at sill, and a Santa Fe Advance90 Dehumidifier.
The humidity remains at 45-50% easily. The Santa Fe Advance90 kicks in and only runs for 7 min to bring the humidity down from 49% to 46%. It maybe turns on 1-2 times an hour, maybe 3 during periods of high humidity?
I feel like running for 7 min instead of the usual 15-20 min may cause problems with wear and tear? I ducted one side of the Advance90 and ducted it all the way to the other side of the space but it still only runs for 7 min. Is the humidistat too close to the outlet on the Advance90? Is there no way to change the set point interval so that the compressor doesn't kick in until larger humidity increases?
Should I test it out by lowering the humidity set point and see if it runs longer?
What is best and highly rated brand these days for a crawlspace dehumidifier? In the past, Santa Fe and AprilAire were the best. I've had experience with Santa Fe failing after 4-5 years anyway. How long have people's AprilAire units lasted?
Things have gotten a little tricky as Santa Fe has bought AprilAire I heard.
What about brands that are lower in cost such as AlorAir - these are around $400-500 but even it lasts a little shorter than the others, it's worth it.
I recently had my crawlspace encapsulated, so maybe a dehumidifier will last much longer (before I only had the vents sealed). I know have a 12 mil reinforced vapor barrier on the floor, up the walls, on all piers, with insulation on all of the walls, insulation on the joist outside band.
These are the ones I was curious about:
Santa Fe Oasis105
Santa Fe AdvanceDry110
AprilAire E100
AlorAir Sentinel HD55
What types of bugs come into the house from the crawlspace? My crawlspace is in NC, so it's VERY humid here, pretty much tropical.
I just sealed the vents and ran my furnace intake to the outside. I plan on encapsulating the crawlspace with a thick vapor barrier on the ground, walls, thermal insulation on the walls and run a dehumidifier down there.
Will this help quite a bit with bugs in the house?
I am encapsulating my vented crawlspace and have the standard 6 mil vapor barrier from the builder that looks fine, clean, no holes and no mold on it. Can I lay my 12 mil Reinforced vapor barrier on top of this without removing it? I read it's okay as long as there is no mold, and I am taping all the seams and perimeter.
Also, what do you think about a product called CrawlBarrier on the walls? It is an insulated radiant barrier with a R-10 value, to stop moisture and thermal energy - basically foam sandwiched between 2 layers of reflective material. Many of the contractors down here in NC use CrawlBarrier.
If you are not going to use No Lye Hair Relaxer and/or Permanent Hair dye to get rid of ETG - you can use High Voltage Detox shampoo. Do not use any other detox shampoo because they don't work well for Alcohol ETG.
There are people on this board who have used High Voltage Detox shampoo and it has gotten rid of over 90% of the ETG. HOWEVER, you have to apply it to hair and leave it in for 2.5 hours before rinsing out.
Look up the study for alcohol ETG in hair and High Voltage shampoo. It was the only shampoo out of 4 that worked.