I have a 2024 diamondback Yowie 3, and i want to do a full rebuild but i am afraid to take the housing out of the frame if there is no guide to easily put it back through
just trying to figure out how to use one
noise, accuracy, ease to resharpen, penetration, blood trails, and all that good stuff. how much does bleeders (4 blade) change these?
I plan to service the headset but how do I deal with the seatpost? it started after a hard case where my front wheel barley made it over the landing. it is a diamondback yowie 3 with all parts that could be causing the issue are stock
is there any sort of target (preferably homemade) that doesn't damage pellets? probably a dumb question that makes me sound like a cheapo, but I am 14 and very broke. ideas also help. i do have access to a 3d printer if that helps
I have taken the weed trimmer and a metal detector and can still not find the arrows. I don't care if it damages the vanes as I plan to replace them EDIT: I found one by using a bow rake. intend to do a bit more weedeating and then i should be able to find the other
today would be the fourth time that I have accidentally split an arrow, i was practicing 40 from a tree stand and it happened. not really a chance that I can aim at different spots because my pin takes up a big spot on the target (3d target so cant really aim anywhere else.) how do I stop this? is there any field point design that you have found that deflects off of the nock? (I don't really care about the nock just the arrow). I guess just buying lots of cheap arrows for the practice season and switching over when it comes time to hunt? getting pissed now instead of joy like I got on the first one.
it was falling off a while back so I took it to my blow shop to glue it back on, but now having a lot more bow knowledge I want to test out bare riser/griptape. it would also be ideal if I could take it off without damaging it. the shop owner shut it down after retiring (just the millionaires side hustle) so I can’t just go ask the shop. This is the wooden grip on the switchback xt. if you want an image look up Mathew’s switchback xt and look at the handle. I know this isn’t really an archery thread. but I was sent here with my question.
it was falling off a while back so I took it to my blow shop to glue it back on, but now having a lot more bow knowledge I want to test out bare riser/griptape. it would also be ideal if I could take it off without damaging it. the shop owner shut it down after retiring (just the millionaires side hustle) so I can’t just go ask the shop. This is the wooden grip on the switchback xt.
i have a switchback xt, and it seems that no matter what I do, the nock always kicks right. has anybody seen this before and if so, how do I fix it. the QAD is almost stuck left and right. if you have any solutions to my problems, can you please help me? I have tried adjusting the rest (by banging on it and having to take it apart multiple times to put i back together because it falls apart inside) and yolk tuning. any suggestions help. also I have tried a variety of spines and they all do the same thing.
a friend gave us an Ameri step hunting blind (gunner/outhouse) and it is pretty much the privacy tents that fold into a little circle. I am wondering if there is a way I can position myself to make it work, because I am already pushing the blind on both sides, I could go to a shorter draw length going from 29-26, and the shorter cam is newer and more efficient, also upgrading from 50 lb to 70 lb. what is your opinion? is it possible? If this is hard to read, I am sorry as I am tired. Update: I tried shooting out of it today and found out that I can stay fully in the blind if I open the middle slit in the back window (the windows are like the top half of a circle with a vertical line going through it. if you don't understand, you can look up the blind) I can have my elbow stick out the back and keep everything else in. If I need to shoot out the other sides, I can kind of lean out of the window and shoot about 270 degrees. I will try to put an image in.
what have your experiences been with them? my main considerations (biggest to smallest)
Do they work? Do they resharpen well? are they really expensive? And what happens when they hit something hard? if you think you have a better broadhead for my needs, what is it?
I am looking for something that is really good value that I can buy online, preferably on amazon so if I don't like it, I can return it. it would be awesome if it was under $50, and I would like the release to "break away"(hold place until I apply enough pressure and goes off) instead of smoothly and easily moving as soon as I apply pressure. I get that this is a pretty unreasonable thing, (find me a release that ats like a $300 release for less than $50). I don't need too many adjustments. I also am not trying to treat redditors like my own little search engines, just trying to find your experiences with things that you have found.
is there anybody here who could tell me how? I have been bow hunting for deer and had somebody ask to help get rid of carp (via bow fishing) I have access to standard arrows of all sorts, a welder, lots of different materials, and plenty of time. looking to make something cheap to try it out.
I am looking to print some string suppressors for my switchback xt, but am hard pressed to find any 3d models. does anybody have a good way to find files or better yet, a file? TIA
need a dif for my rc car, low time now so sorry for the short post. 2wd and looking for an stl to 3d print it