u/alrashid2

Hey guys. I've been reading far and wide trying to understand this. I thought buying an AR Pistol in Pennsylvania was as simple as keeping a brace on it and you are good to go. The more I read though the more confused I get...

Not the main subject of this post, but I recently learned of a Length of Pull (LOP) limit of no more than 13.5"... that is annoying, as I've looked at some in stores that seem to just barely hit or even exceed that value, from trigger face to buffer tube end. Really confuses me!

Even more confusing is the Overall Length (OAL) laws. Federally, it sounds like an AR Pistol with an OAL >26" turns it from a Pistol to a non-NFA generic "Firearm" - or does it stay both? And if it does not stay a pistol, is it not considered an AR Pistol anymore?

I'm less concerned with the Fed laws as they are a bit more straight forward - more concerned with PA State Law. I've read the PA Uniform Firearms Act and Section 6102.0 - Title 18, and from what I've gathered is this, but I'm not sure if it's accurate:

• As long as a pistol has a barrel length of less than 15", it doesn't matter that it has an OAL greater than 26"

OR

• Because the pistol has an OAL length of less than 15", it is now considered a "firearm" as per PA's definition. It is legal, but since it is no longer a pistol, it cannot be carried loaded in a vehicle with a LTC

It's all so confusing. It honestly makes registering it as an SBR seem easier and safer at this point!

What do you all think? Thanks for the advice.

Hey guys. Not usually one to complain but wanted to share this story to warn anyone else from dealing with the hell that is buying from Main Street Liquor.

I often don't get a lot of the bourbons I like in my state, so finally decided to order from an online vendor. A friend of mine recommended Main Street Liquor so I gave them a shot. The first few orders were just fine: paid reasonable prices for bourbons, shipped via UPS very carefully with zero damage, and received what I ordered. Unfortunately, not this time.

Had my order delivered and noticed a third bottle of Eagle Rare that I did not order, and that the most expensive bottle of the order, a $150 Weller 12 Year, was missing. Bummer - guess they grabbed the wrong bottle. I immediately took photos and emailed their customer service.

Days go by before I hear back. I finally get a response, and am told I can return the wrong bottle of Eagle Rare and once it is received, they'll ship me the Weller I a missing. All fine and fair by me. I asked for a return shipping label, and again am ghosted for days. I called their phone number and was told they can't do anything over the phone and to email customer service again - OK? Weird.

Days later, I finally get a response for the return, with a dead link to a prepaid return shipping label. I tried opening on 3 different computers and 2 phones, and no dice. Upon further examination, the link itself was a dead link and didn't go to anything real. I wasn't about to spend $40 when it wasn't my mistake, so I let them know the link was broken and asked them to send me a working link or PDF for a prepaid label.

Again, days go by and nothing. I reach out again. Days go by, nothing. We're nearly a week and half out now. I finally call again and get them to immediately email me. It's the exact email forwarded again. I try explaining that the link doesn't work, it's on their end and not mine, but they aren't getting it.

I had a busy weekend so by Day 13 I emailed one last time asking for help. 24 hours goes by and no response. I email back to let them know that I'm filing a chargeback with my credit card company.

That was a week ago, and I just got word that my credit card closed the dispute and sided with me. Not sure what to do with the extra Eagle Rare as I didn't pay for it, but I guess it can be a reimbursement for all of the time and stress spent trying to setup a simple return. Not once did they apologize for all this trouble, or even come up with an excuse as to why they weren't trying to help me at all.

The entire fiasco was a real bummer as I had previously had great experiences with these guys. But I'm warning you all not to buy from them, as when they eventually forget to ship you a nearly 200 dollar bottle, they won't make things right. I'd guess that between me, my family, and friends, we had spent over $3000 this past year with Main Street, but we will be taking our business elsewhere going forward.

Thanks all, cheers.

Hey guys. Long story short, we got our roof replaced 4 years ago, and unfortunately they did not do a great job with the chimney flashing and as a result, we had a good amount of leaking there for God knows how long.

It never reached the living space below, and it's on the far side of the attic I rarely go to, so we never never noticed.

Anyway, I have since repaired the leak but want to keep an eye on that area for any new damage. The issue I'm having is is that the area is heavily stained from the previous leaking, and I'm having a hard time telling what is old from what could be new. During heavy storms, I go up and check and it's obvious that the stains are old and dry, but I'd like to remove the stains so that I can just periodically check for new staining instead of having to check during the rain storm.

Any ideas here? I thought about sanding but with all the protruding nails from above it seemed like an annoying job that might not even work. I don't want to paint over it with anything as I want to be able to see new stains.

I did try tracing around the stains with a sharpie to mark what was old but that didn't work as well as I thought.

I appreciate the advice!

Hey guys, appreciate the help here. I've never had a nice cooler until now - just bought myself an Rtic Ultra-Light 52 quart cooler. Thing is really cool!

However, one thing that surprised me was how easy the lid is to open. It barely feels like it's tightened down, and I also noticed when pushing on the closed lid, that the entire lid flexes, more in some spots than others.

I tried filling the cooler with a few inches of water, flipped it onto the lid, and it did not leak - though I realized that the pressure of pushing on the lid was probably what was stopping any leaks. As soon as I flipped it rightside up, by grabbing the lid, it began to trickle out the gasket despite being latched shut.

I then tried the dollar bill test. Some spots were very tight and took some force to pull the bill out. But, in between the two latches at the front, the dollar bill did have some friction but not very much, and I pulled the bill out with relative ease.

Just curious if I got a dud or not. Was going to go to Lowes and see if I could test one of theirs out to compare but I think theyre pre-boxed.

Thanks anyone for your advice here!

UPDATE: Ended up going to Lowes and the RTICs were out of the box! All of them were cable locked shut, but I was able to open them about a quarter inch, which was enough to do my dollar bill test.

Oddly enough, the two 52 Qts in the same color as mine also were just as loose in the gasket area between the two latches. The smaller RTICS were much tighter in that same area, which I suppose makes sense as the latches are closer together. They also had a larger 65 Qt Ultra-Tough: the latches latched down much tighter and were much more difficult to unlatch; however, the dollar bill was just as loose in the middle. So, seems this is normal. At the end of the day, every other cooler I've ever owned had no gasket or latches so I think I'm ok with it!

Hey y'all. I bought my Rugged Oculus 22LR suppressor 2 years ago and have enjoyed it so much so that I'm shooting a lot more rounds out of it than I originally anticipated.

​

I've shot approximately 10,000 rounds of subsonic 22lr each year out of it - currently have over 22,000 rounds through it. This is across 5 different firearms.

​

So my question is, how long will my suppressor last me? I kind of thought it would be a lifetime can, but at this rate I'll shoot 100,000 rounds through it by 2034.

​

What do y'all think?

Hey guys. Just bought my first truck, a Ford Ranger, that is currently on order and should delivered sometime this summer. Have only ever owned small cars.

I currently have a 2 Ton Floor Jack with a max lift height of 17". Technically, I could use it safely for the Ranger - the truck weighs around 4500 lbs give or take. I believe the rule of thumb is your jack should be rated to no less than 3/4 of the weight. So, doing the math, that means a 2 ton jack could lift well over 5300 lbs safely, so should be fine for my Ranger safety-wise, right?

I'm also concerned about the lift height at 17". Looks like 3 ton floor jacks I am looking at only creep up a hair more, with a max height of 19". I'm not sure if the 2 Ton at 17" will be able to lift the frame high enough when pulling wheels and doing work on the truck.

What do you all think? Thanks all!

Hey guys, any of you out there know how high up the frame is on our new Rangers? I have one on order, so don't have it yet, but trying to plan ahead.

I currently have a 2 Ton Floor Jack with a max lift height of 17". Technically, I could use it safely for the Ranger - our trucks weigh around 4500 lbs give or take, and rule of thumb is your jack should be rated to no less than 3/4 of the weight. So, doing the math, that means a 2 ton jack could lift well over 5300 lbs safely.

Anyway, I'm more concerned about the lift height at 17". Looks like 3 ton floor jacks I am looking at only creep up a hair more, with a max height of 19".

I like to lift from the frame, so curious what the frame height is, and also curious what you guys are using to jack your trucks up?

Thanks all!

Hey guys. About 3 weeks ago I put in an order for a 2026 Ford Ranger with the newly added power moonroof. As far as I am aware, they just started to allow orders for this add on in March 2026 and I couldn't find a single one in the country at a dealer lot yet.

Anyway, got a call today from my salesman saying that Ford reached out to them to let them know the power moonroof was no longer being produced "indefinitely". I could either wait, or alter the order to remove it, and go back to the approximate delivery date of July or Aug.

I am super bummed because that was one of the features I was most excited for. But already having to wait 3 months is bad enough, so I opted to order without it.

It seems weird to me though. Dealer had no additional info. Ford is already taking anywhere from 2 to 6 months to produce these Rangers, with no announcement of delays, so then announcing this makes me think that there must be a major QC issue or some other hold up. I'm speculating here but it makes me wonder if the Power Moonroof is fully rescinded or will be held off until the 2027 year.

Anyone here have an inside scoop or any idea of what's happening? Thanks!

Hey guys. I put an order in for a new 2026 Ranger last week and now just playing the waiting game!

I read online that when you buy a new Ford you get ford points? Just curious how that works. Should I make an account online somewhere now in advance?

And how many points do you get? I assume you can use them to buy accessories?

Thanks guys!

Hey guys. Curious if anyone here has ordered a 2026 Ranger from the dealer. Was having trouble finding the combination I wanted already at any dealer so we put an order in. My salesman said it would take 8 weeks (2 months) from order to delivery, so I signed and placed an order with deposit.

Now I'm reading online, for previous years it was taking people 6 to 9 months to get theirs!?

Is this true? Hoping my salesman didn't lie or was inept.

Hey guys. The last time I bought a new car was 2020, during Covid, and things were really different then. Beyond that, my last car purchase was 15 years ago, so I'm a bit rusty.

Anyway, decided to buy my first truck, a Ford Ranger. I am picky when it comes to cars, and was working with a local dealer. Wanted a Ranger XLT with some unique combinations:

• Power moonroof and rear window

• Color: Marsh Gray

• Rear locking diff

• Bedlined bed

• Towing package

• 2.7L Ecoboost V6

We spent a few weeks looking, but between myself and the salesman we could not find any in that combo to get transferred, so we put in an order with Ford for exactly what I want.

Total MSRP of my unique package was $48,300. The salesman brought up the Employee Pricing for All and showed me some numbers:

• MSRP: $48,300

• Invoice: $46,383

• My Price with Employee Pricing: $44,945, so 7% below MSRP

As I've said, I've bought cars many times, but have never ordered a car before. After looking over the numbers, it was basically said that "this is the price" and there wasn't any negotiation to be had it seemed. I get it - they're ordering the truck for me, so it's not like they have one sitting on the lot theyre trying to get rid of. It just felt a bit off, like I was given a price and told take it or leave it.

I looked on KBB, and plugging in my build choices, it looks like a sale price of $44,000-$45,200 is considered fair in my area, which my purchase price was within.

What do you guys think? I went in thinking I'd ask for $42,000 but be willing to pay up to $45,000, so at $44,900 I am 100 bucks below my max.

Appreciate the input guys!

Hey guys. The last time I bought a new car was 2020, during Covid, and things were really different then. Beyond that, my last car purchase was 15 years ago, so I'm a bit rusty.

Anyway, decided to buy my first truck, a Ford Ranger. I am picky when it comes to cars, and was working with a local dealer. Wanted a Ranger XLT with some unique combinations:

• Power moonroof and rear window

• Color: Marsh Gray

• Rear locking diff

• Bedlined bed

• Towing package

• 2.7L Ecoboost V6

We spent a few weeks looking, but between myself and the salesman we could not find any in that combo to get transferred, so we put in an order with Ford for exactly what I want.

Total MSRP of my unique package was $48,300. The salesman brought up the Employee Pricing for All and showed me some numbers:

• MSRP: $48,300

• Invoice: $46,383

• My Price with Employee Pricing: $44,945

As I've said, I've bought cars many times, but have never ordered a car before. After looking over the numbers, it was basically said that "this is the price" and there wasn't any negotiation to be had it seemed. I get it - they're ordering the truck for me, so it's not like they have one sitting on the lot theyre trying to get rid of. It just felt a bit off, like I was given a price and told take it or leave it.

I looked on KBB, and plugging in my build choices, it looks like a sale price of $44,000-$45,200 is considered fair in my area, which my purchase price was within.

What do you guys think? I went in thinking I'd ask for $42,000 but be willing to pay up to $45,000, so at $44,900 I am 100 bucks below my max.

Appreciate the input guys!

Hey guys. I'll keep it short. I bought a Pedal Commander for my 2015 XV Crosstrek back in Dec and it was by far the best thing I have ever bought for my Subaru. Made it feel like an entirely new car to drive!

Anyway, the CVT is having issues and I am trading up now to another car. I'll be trading her in and figured I'd try to sell the Pedal Commander instead of just trading it in with it.

Anybody here interested in one? Here is link to the one I have, for all Crosstreks 2013 to 2026:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078JHYM7V?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2

As you can see, they sell for $299.99 + tax. I'd ship it to first one who wants it at the right price - make me an offer!

Thanks!

banana?

Hey guys. Not sure if this is the right way to ask about this but thought I'd give it a shot.

Always dreamt of having a Toyota Tacoma but throughout life it just didn't make sense. Bought a house a few years back and finally had a solid need for a truck. Well, my Subaru has finally bit the dust and I can finally get a Tacoma!

But when I went looking, I realized I really hate the current gen, which I believe came about in 2024. The exterior is so bloated and reminds me of the cybertruck. Like it's trying too hard... Likewise, the interior really disappointed me. It feels ultra-masculine and more like a toy than a serious, capable working man's truck. Beyond the detailing, I absolutely hate the digital tachometer/speedometer and the lack of many physical knobs.

Just feel super bummed. I've waited nearly 15 years to get a Tacoma and don't like the current gens. I've looked at used previous gen models but for the mileage and price, it just doesn't make sense. Too expensive for how many miles are on them, and I'm honestly having trouble finding many for sale around me - just 12 in the 75 mile radius and didn't care for any of them.

Hate to admit it, but I'm looking at getting a Ford Ranger instead. They look so much more like a simple truck. Not a video game go kart. What do you guys think? And is there any chance I could wait a year or two and a new gen will come out that is closer to the old roots?