u/cathode_01

Hi all, hoping people can provide some feedback on my board design. This is a PCB for a custom industrial machine that I've built. We've done several versions of the machine itself and have needed to upgrade from an Arduino Mega2560 to a RP2350b for speed and capabilities, so I decided to design a PCB that will fit to the wall of the enclosure and have some external connectors (on the rear of the PCB). The board is designed to use a Core2350b module from Waveshare.

This isn't a product that will be mass produced, it's only for our in-house machinery. I'll likely only need to make less than 10 of these boards so if there are minor alterations that need to happen after the fact, that's fine. I want to try and catch any major flaws that I missed in the design process.

The board is a 4-layer board, 110mm x 300mm, will be ordering this from JLCPCB. The stackup is

1. Signal/GND
2. GND
3. Power (3V3, 5V, 24V)
4. Signal/GND/EGND

Thanks!

https://preview.redd.it/b3gafeusvleh1.png?width=1128&format=png&auto=webp&s=7334f211c7ad15df3ec0575bb955c07503825e75

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https://preview.redd.it/njtuylabyleh1.png?width=1299&format=png&auto=webp&s=93c2c25ba2d5b7cf798e2bbdbf37c38990f2960a

https://preview.redd.it/rfa1jkabyleh1.png?width=1299&format=png&auto=webp&s=3b97776940262d62e6b0201e347016c012b4707d

https://preview.redd.it/i2zl4vabyleh1.png?width=1299&format=png&auto=webp&s=74145b80010fa332783c2726c9de70b536e316a6

Hey all, I have a brightdrop 400 electric van (2025 model) I got last year. It's done this a few times and I can't figure out what the cause is, but it'll be parked in my driveway and the vehicle anti-theft alarm will just start going off multiple times in a row with nothing disturbing the vehicle at all. Since the brightdrop apparently shares some software and sensors tech with other chevy vehicles I thought I'd ask here.

When the alarm triggers, I can clear it each time using the keyfob to lock/unlock it, but last night it was happening every 10-20 minutes from 10pm until 1am (or perhaps later, I finally gave up trying to keep it from going off). Obviously not a tenable solution to just babysit it with the keyfob.

Hi all, currently working on a remodel where I'm adding a shower to a basement bathroom. Plumbing rough in has been put in and I'm trying to figure out the correct waterproofing and material plan for the shower. It's a 42" x 56" shower with the drain in the corner. I'm planning on using GoBoard for the walls and curb, and I was wondering what is suggested for the pan itself? I thought about trying to set a 'faceted' pan using four pieces of 1/2" GoBoard for the floor as well. The existing slab is horribly uneven and not level enough to use one of the premade sloped pan kits, but my idea was to do a deck mud pan but make it 1/2" low, and then once that has set, then trowel on thinset onto the mud pan and add my GoBoard panels on top. Then finish the joints between the GoBoard floor and wall panels, and curb to make the whole thing waterproof.

https://preview.redd.it/nxnpjvdsth5h1.png?width=680&format=png&auto=webp&s=243dddb30b7a33edad02135e18e09cec085049fe

The tile material for the shower floor will be sliced river rock mosaic, so I'm not super concerned with the flatness or anything of the shower pan, I just want the slope to be correct and not leak. I would like to have GoBoard on the shower floor because I'm using it on the rest of the floor in the basement to both even out the rough and uneven concrete slab and also thermally decouple the slab from the tile. 1/2" GoBoard provides about R-2.1.

I've also seen that there's other options like Kerdi membrane and such. Which method would you use?

I'm planning out a 12ft x 16ft shed build in Portland, OR. Girlfriend wants to have it on a floating foundation system and since it's for her house, we're doing that. The yard slopes 6-8 inches over the length of the shed so the plan is to use short vertical 4x4 posts sitting on deck blocks so that the floor framing can be leveled easily and the 4x4's installed and then the tops cut flush with the floor framing. The 4x4's would be installed using either structural screws (Simpson SDWS), or hot-dipped galvanized 1/2in bolts.

My own shed, I poured concrete piers and dug them far deeper than I needed to, 30" or so (frost depth is 12in in PNW). I felt very confident about that shed build, but I'm unfamiliar with using deck blocks for a project like this.

Half of this new shed is going to be used for storage, the other half will be 'finished' into a bunkhouse type room for a couple of our friends that visit regularly. An interior wall will divide the 12x16 footprint into two 12x8 sections.

I've created a pretty complete CAD model of what we're going to build but I'd like a second opinion on the floor system and the deck block usage.

https://preview.redd.it/vd25g794iw3h1.png?width=1329&format=png&auto=webp&s=3c0ad689d2949aec488a514d69c0794ffcc10abd

The rim boards, and the longer interior joists, will be 2x8 pressure treated. The short joists between them would be 2x6 untreated. The center joists are doubled up since there will be a partition wall sitting on top of them.

Is this too complicated, should I just use 2x10's for the entire thing and span the 12ft dimension?

I'm designing some tab and slot parts that I'm going to have laser cut by SendCutSend from 8mm (5/16") steel plate. I've done a couple projects so far using this technique, but I'm by no means an expert and I'm looking for some feedback if anyone has tips or experiences with tab-and-slot welded assemblies, what works, what doesn't, what you wish the engineer did differently etc.

For starters, I can't decide what style of corner relief for the slots to use:

Processing img yjmigjirnx1h1...

I did some poking around but haven't really seen anyone building a DIY version of Nexen's incredibly expensive roller pinion drive system. Is this system just not better enough to justify the complexity of trying to DIY it, compared to buying inexpensive spur gear racks and pinions, or using a GT or HTD belt drive?

I modeled up what I think is the correct rack profile and I'm going to attempt to print a sample piece of it with my resin printer which I believe should have the dimensional accuracy to make sections of pinion rack.

https://preview.redd.it/x2yp9u61gx0h1.png?width=1028&format=png&auto=webp&s=1b6b0daa57f87e83e51a3a019fd23e3521e54d61

https://preview.redd.it/c2j864vyfx0h1.png?width=560&format=png&auto=webp&s=dca270469bff7b28b68e729ac4e8bca8f5ead1da

For context, I'm currently working on DIYing a large format CNC gantry router with 1700mm x 3700mm x 400mm travels. I plan on using some type of rack and pinion system for both X and Y, with a ballscrew on the Z axis. This roller pinion system was attractive at first because of the idea that it can handle extremely fast movement and also has zero backlash, because in theory there's always two rollers meshed with the rack teeth, on opposing teeth faces.

I've got a situation where I have designed a parametric shipping crate and created a drawing studio with several sheets in it showing various details. What I've discovered is that if I want to change one of the configuration parameters that drives the model, I have to go to 'Change Configuration' and enter the new value on every drawing view. I don't see any way to make all instances of a part share the same configuration values.

Is using a global variable studio the only way to apply uniform changes like this?

I do some small amount of woodworking, but wood is just one of a variety of materials that I like to make things with. I have a 16" jointer in my shop that takes up a lot of space and gets used for only a few projects a year. This year I'm building a large high performance CNC router table. I'd like to hear some stories from folks with experience using both tools. My theory is that a large router table with a powerful spindle could provide the same ability of facing and edging a rough-sawn board that a dedicated jointer can do. I want the CNC router anyway, but I'm hoping that I can sell the jointer to help pay for the CNC build.

I've ordered a 9kW ISO30 electrospindle (chinese HSD 919 clone) with ATC capability, and the overall size I'm designing for this machine is 3700mm X-travel, 1600mm Y-travel, and 400mm Z-travel. I know this probably sounds overly ambitious or crazy, but I have experience building complex machine tools from scratch so I'm confident that I can get this one to the finish line.

Also, the jointer honestly scares the crap out of me to use, so the idea of having a CNC router to prepare rough sawn lumber seems safer to me. If anyone has been in the same position - have you sold your jointer after getting a CNC table? Did you regret it or was it a solid move?