u/chimney_expert

TL;DR: If your AC swing stops moving, it is usually not a major problem. In many cases, only a small swing motor, gear, linkage arm, or louver component has failed. The actual spare part often costs between ₹250 and ₹2,000 depending on the part and model. Always ask for the failed part, part number, and a cost breakdown before approving repairs.

----------------

A lot of people know what an AC compressor is. Very few people know about the small motors that move the AC flaps.

These small motors are responsible for what we commonly call Swing.

When you press the Swing button on your remote and the flap starts moving, one of these motors is doing the work.

There are generally two types of swing systems.

1_/ Vertical Swing moves the main flap up and down. This helps spread cool air from the ceiling area towards the floor. Almost every modern split AC comes with this feature.

2_/ Horizontal Swing moves the side fins left and right. This helps distribute cool air across the width of the room. It is commonly found in mid-range and premium models.

Many people ask whether horizontal swing is worth paying extra for.

The answer depends on your room and expectations.

Vertical swing is the more important feature because it controls the main airflow direction.

Without it, you lose a lot of comfort and air distribution control. Horizontal swing is useful because it helps spread air more evenly across the room, especially in larger bedrooms and living rooms, but most Indian households can comfortably use an AC that has only vertical swing.

The interesting part comes when one of these systems stops working.

A lot of times, homeowners panic because the AC is still cooling but the flap no longer moves.

This is where many technicians start using technical words that sound expensive.

Some common statements are:

"Swing assembly is fully damaged."

"Complete indoor unit mechanism has failed."

"Motor is not available separately."

"PCB has to be changed."

"Whole flap assembly needs replacement."

Sometimes these statements are true. Many times they are not.

But in real life, the actual problem is often a small swing motor, a plastic gear, a connecting arm, or a linkage rod.

The approximate spare part prices in the Indian market are usually much lower than what people imagine.

A vertical swing motor often costs around ₹250 to ₹1,000.

A horizontal swing motor generally falls between ₹500 and ₹2,000.

(You can check Amazon or Local AC/HVAC Shops.)

Connecting arms and linkage components may cost as little as ₹100 to ₹400.

Gear assemblies are often available in the ₹150 to ₹600 range.

Even a complete louver assembly is commonly available between ₹500 and ₹2,500 depending on the model.

Of course, labour charges are extra, and prices vary between cities, brands, and availability.

One trick some technicians use is combining labour and spare cost into a single large number.

The customer hears ₹4,500 and assumes the part itself must be expensive. In reality, the actual motor may be worth only ₹600.

Another common situation happens when the technician does not show the failed part. The customer never gets to know what was replaced.

That is why it is always a good idea to ask a few simple questions.

1. Ask what exact part has failed.
2. Ask for a photo of the defective part.
3. Ask for the part number.
4. Ask for spare cost and labour cost separately.

Most importantly, ask for the old part back after replacement.

A genuine technician usually has no problem doing this.

If someone immediately starts talking about replacing the entire assembly without even opening the indoor unit properly, it may be worth taking a second opinion.

Swing failures are mostly comfort problems, not cooling problems. In a lot of situations, they are among the cheaper AC repairs compared to compressors, PCBs, or gas leakage issues. The next time your AC flap stops moving, do not panic. A little knowledge can save a surprising amount of money.

I hope this helps you all save some money and get the best out of your AC.

A few days ago, my friend, Noel, called me for his new AC.

Like most of us, he had already spent hours watching YouTube videos, comparing brands, checking Amazon reviews, and reading Reddit threads. Finally, he narrowed it down to two models.

• One was a 3 Star AC.
• The other was a 5 Star AC.

The salesperson immediately pointed towards the 5 Star model and said:

"Sir, ho AC chadlo asa." (English - "Sir, this is the better AC.")

Noel asked me a simple question.

"If 5 Star is always better, why do companies even sell 3 Star ACs?"

Honestly, that question made me realise how much confusion exists around AC energy labels.

Most people think the star rating tells the whole story. It does not. The BEE label contains much more useful information than just the stars. One of the most important terms on the label is ISEER (Indian Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio).

The easiest way to understand ISEER is to think about mileage in a car.

Suppose one car gives 15 km/litre and another gives 25 km/litre. Both will take you to the same destination, but one uses less fuel.

An AC works similarly.

A higher ISEER means the AC can provide the same cooling while consuming less electricity. This is why 5 Star ACs usually cost more. They are more efficient.

But wait, that does not automatically mean everyone should buy one.

Let's take two examples.

• Noel uses his AC only during peak summer, maybe 2 to 3 hours at night.
• My cousin Venkatesh works from home and runs his AC 8 to 10 hours every day.

For Noel, the extra ₹5,000 to ₹10,000 spent on a 5 Star model may never be recovered through electricity savings.

For Venkatesh, that same 5 Star AC may save thousands of rupees over the next several years.

That is why usage matters more than marketing. If you use an AC occasionally, a good 3 Star model can make complete financial sense. If you use an AC heavily throughout the year, a 5 Star model often becomes the smarter long-term choice.

But then we discovered something even more interesting.

While comparing models, Noel kept focusing on the large "1.5 Ton" sticker shown in advertisements.

Very few buyers realise that the actual cooling capacity is written separately on the BEE label.

Look for a number called Cooling Capacity, usually written in Watts.

This is where things get interesting.

One Ton of cooling is approximately equal to 3516 Watts.

That means:

• 1 Ton ≈ 3516 Watts
• 1.5 Ton ≈ 5274 Watts
• 2 Ton ≈ 7032 Watts

Now imagine an AC advertised as 1.5 Ton but the cooling capacity on the label is only 4800 Watts.

The calculation is very simple.

4800 ÷ 3516 = 1.36

So the actual cooling capacity is closer to 1.36 Ton. You can also use this calculator available online.

At this point, Noel looked at me and said,

"Then why was I comparing only the tonnage written in the advertisement?"

Exactly.

Many buyers compare star ratings, discounts, and tonnage claims but never check the actual cooling capacity.

Think of it like buying a 1 kg rice packet.

You would want to know whether it actually contains 1 kg of rice.

The same logic applies to AC cooling capacity. The lesson Noel learned that day was simple. Do not buy an AC based only on the stars. Do not buy an AC based only on the advertised tonnage.

Instead, compare:

• ISEER Rating
• Cooling Capacity (Watts)
• Annual Power Consumption (Units per Year)
• Final Purchase Price

The BEE label tells you almost everything you need to know.

Most buyers look at the stars. Smarter buyers read the entire label. And sometimes the smallest numbers on the label tell the biggest story.

Noel was happy and finally said, "Arre dosta, tujya mhaka dilelya sallyamule mhaka bazarantlo best AC ghevpak zala." (“Friend, because of your advice, I was able to buy the best AC in the market”)

Over my post last week, a lot of Reddit users have messaged me asking about one common problem:

"My AC is running, but it is not cooling as expected."

The interesting part is that this question comes from owners of almost every major brand. Many people immediately assume that the AC itself is defective. In reality, poor cooling is often caused by factors outside the AC unit.

Before you call customer care or spend money on repairs, it helps to understand what might actually be happening. It becomes easier for you to explain once you are connected with customer care or the repair guy.

One of the biggest reasons is incorrect AC sizing, also called tonnage. If your room requires a larger AC and you install a smaller one, the AC may run continuously without reaching the desired temperature.

Even the best 1 Ton AC will struggle if it is installed in a room that actually needs a 1.5 Ton or 2 Ton unit. (I will soon have a helpful post on this)

Another common reason is high outdoor temperature.

During peak summer afternoons, especially when temperatures cross 40°C, every AC works harder.

If your room receives direct sunlight through large windows, the heat entering the room can sometimes exceed the cooling capacity of the AC.

Installation quality is another factor many people ignore. Poor installation can create several problems, including improper vacuuming, gas leakage, poor pipe insulation, incorrect drainage, and badly placed outdoor units.

Even a premium AC can underperform if installation quality is poor.

Dirty filters and coils are also responsible for a large percentage of cooling complaints. When airflow becomes restricted, the AC cannot remove heat efficiently. Something as simple as cleaning filters every 2 to 4 weeks can make a noticeable difference.

Many users are also surprised to learn that AC settings matter. Running the AC in Fan Mode instead of Cool Mode, setting temperatures too high, or using incorrect swing settings can reduce cooling performance significantly.

If your AC is not cooling properly, these are the first things worth checking:

• Temperature set between 20°C and 24°C
• Clean air filters
• Doors and windows fully closed
• No direct sunlight entering the room
• Outdoor unit has proper ventilation
• Drain pipe is not blocked
• Stable electrical supply
• Correct AC tonnage for room size

The location of the problem also matters.

Heat often enters through windows, poorly insulated walls, door gaps, and open entrances. Sometimes furniture, curtains, or decorative panels block airflow around the indoor unit.

In other cases, the outdoor unit is installed in a hot corner with poor ventilation, reducing its ability to reject heat effectively.

The good news is that many cooling problems can be improved without spending money.

Keeping curtains closed during peak sunlight hours, cleaning filters regularly, ensuring doors and windows remain closed, removing unnecessary heat sources such as ovens or heaters, and maintaining proper airflow around both indoor and outdoor units can significantly improve cooling performance.

One thing many first-time AC owners do not realise is that cooling takes time. If the room has been sitting at 36°C all afternoon, the AC may need 15 to 30 minutes to bring the temperature down, depending on room size, heat load, and outdoor conditions.

The next time your AC does not cool as expected, do not immediately blame the brand. In many cases, the issue is related to installation, room conditions, maintenance, settings, or airflow.

A properly sized AC, installed correctly, maintained regularly, and used under the right conditions will almost always perform better than most people expect.
------------------------------------------------------------------

Full disclosure: I collected the points myself and used ChatGPT to organise them into a readable post. Please correct me if I have missed anything.

Over my post last week, a lot of Reddit users have messaged me asking about one common problem:

"My AC is running, but it is not cooling as expected."

The interesting part is that this question comes from owners of almost every major brand. Many people immediately assume that the AC itself is defective. In reality, poor cooling is often caused by factors outside the AC unit.

Before you call customer care or spend money on repairs, it helps to understand what might actually be happening. It becomes easier for you to explain once you are connected with customer care or the repair guy.

One of the biggest reasons is incorrect AC sizing, also called tonnage. If your room requires a larger AC and you install a smaller one, the AC may run continuously without reaching the desired temperature.

Even the best 1 Ton AC will struggle if it is installed in a room that actually needs a 1.5 Ton or 2 Ton unit. (I will soon have a helpful post on this)

Another common reason is high outdoor temperature.

During peak summer afternoons, especially when temperatures cross 40°C, every AC works harder.

If your room receives direct sunlight through large windows, the heat entering the room can sometimes exceed the cooling capacity of the AC.

Installation quality is another factor many people ignore. Poor installation can create several problems, including improper vacuuming, gas leakage, poor pipe insulation, incorrect drainage, and badly placed outdoor units.

Even a premium AC can underperform if installation quality is poor.

Dirty filters and coils are also responsible for a large percentage of cooling complaints. When airflow becomes restricted, the AC cannot remove heat efficiently. Something as simple as cleaning filters every 2 to 4 weeks can make a noticeable difference.

Many users are also surprised to learn that AC settings matter. Running the AC in Fan Mode instead of Cool Mode, setting temperatures too high, or using incorrect swing settings can reduce cooling performance significantly.

If your AC is not cooling properly, these are the first things worth checking:

• Temperature set between 20°C and 24°C
• Clean air filters
• Doors and windows fully closed
• No direct sunlight entering the room
• Outdoor unit has proper ventilation
• Drain pipe is not blocked
• Stable electrical supply
• Correct AC tonnage for room size

The location of the problem also matters.

Heat often enters through windows, poorly insulated walls, door gaps, and open entrances. Sometimes furniture, curtains, or decorative panels block airflow around the indoor unit.

In other cases, the outdoor unit is installed in a hot corner with poor ventilation, reducing its ability to reject heat effectively.

The good news is that many cooling problems can be improved without spending money.

Keeping curtains closed during peak sunlight hours, cleaning filters regularly, ensuring doors and windows remain closed, removing unnecessary heat sources such as ovens or heaters, and maintaining proper airflow around both indoor and outdoor units can significantly improve cooling performance.

One thing many first-time AC owners do not realise is that cooling takes time. If the room has been sitting at 36°C all afternoon, the AC may need 15 to 30 minutes to bring the temperature down, depending on room size, heat load, and outdoor conditions.

The next time your AC does not cool as expected, do not immediately blame the brand. In many cases, the issue is related to installation, room conditions, maintenance, settings, or airflow.

A properly sized AC, installed correctly, maintained regularly, and used under the right conditions will almost always perform better than most people expect.
------------------------------------------------------------------

Full disclosure: I collected the points myself and used ChatGPT to organise them into a readable post. Please correct me if I have missed anything.

Every summer, thousands of people in India buy a new AC and trust the installation technician to do everything correctly.

Unfortunately, one of the most important installation steps, called vacuuming, is often skipped, rushed, or not done properly. The worst part is that most customers do not even know it exists, so they never ask about it.

Vacuuming is the process of removing air, moisture (water vapour present in the air), and non-condensable gases (unwanted gases like normal air that should not be inside an AC system) from the copper pipes and indoor unit before the refrigerant (cooling gas used by the AC) is released into the system. This is done using a vacuum pump (a machine designed to suck out air and moisture from AC pipes).

Many people think that a brand-new AC does not need vacuuming because it is new. That is incorrect. During installation, copper pipes are cut, connected, and exposed to the atmosphere.

Even a few minutes of exposure can allow humid air and moisture to enter the system. Once moisture gets trapped inside, it can create problems that may not appear immediately but can affect the AC months later.

In India, technicians generally use either a Single Stage Vacuum Pump (standard vacuum machine commonly used for home split ACs) or a Dual Stage Vacuum Pump (more powerful vacuum machine generally used for commercial systems and longer piping runs). For a normal home split AC, a good-quality single-stage pump is usually sufficient if used correctly.

One question that many buyers ask is, "How long should vacuuming take?" There is no exact answer because it depends on the pipe length, humidity level, AC capacity, and vacuum pump quality. However, for most residential split ACs, a proper vacuum process generally takes around 15 to 30 minutes. If a technician connects a pump for only two or three minutes and then disconnects it, that is usually a red flag.

The actual goal is not the time but the vacuum level achieved. Professional technicians use a Micron Gauge (a highly accurate instrument that measures how deep the vacuum is inside the AC system). The ideal target is below 500 microns (a measurement unit used for vacuum level; lower numbers are better). Some technicians only look at their manifold gauge (pressure gauge used during AC installation and servicing), but that does not always confirm a proper deep vacuum.

For those interested in the numbers, a good vacuum should ideally be below 500 microns. On a manifold gauge, it should generally approach around -29.5 to -30 in. Hg (inches of mercury, a vacuum measurement unit).

Many people ask about PSI (pressure measurement unit), but PSI is not the best way to measure vacuum quality. A proper deep vacuum is roughly equivalent to -14.7 PSI relative to atmospheric pressure, but micron readings are far more accurate and reliable.

When vacuuming is skipped, moisture remains trapped inside the system. This moisture can react with refrigerant oil (lubricating oil used inside the compressor) and eventually form acids. Over time, these acids can damage internal components, corrode copper surfaces, reduce cooling efficiency, increase electricity consumption, and shorten compressor life. In severe cases, moisture can freeze and create restrictions inside the system, leading to cooling problems and expensive repairs.

One thing I find interesting is the number of excuses some technicians give for avoiding vacuuming. Common examples include:

• "Sir, AC naya hai, vacuum ki zarurat nahi hai."
• "Gas leak ho jayega."
• "Company vacuum karne ko nahi bolti."
• "Humne pressure check kar liya, woh enough hai."
• "Time nahi hai."
• "AC waise bhi cooling karega."

The truth is that pressure testing (checking whether there is a leak in the piping) and vacuuming are two completely different procedures.

One cannot replace the other. Also, almost every major AC manufacturer mentions evacuation or vacuuming in their installation guidelines.

As a customer, you can easily verify whether proper vacuuming is being done. Ask the technician to show the vacuum pump before installation begins. Ask how long the vacuum process will run.

If possible, ask what vacuum reading was achieved. Observe whether the outdoor unit valves (valves that hold the factory refrigerant charge inside the outdoor unit) remain closed during vacuuming. The refrigerant should normally be released only after proper vacuum has been completed.

A few technical terms that every AC buyer should know are Vacuum Pump (machine that removes air and moisture), Micron (unit used to measure vacuum quality), Manifold Gauge (pressure gauge set used by technicians), Refrigerant (cooling gas), Service Port (connection point where gauges and vacuum pumps are attached), and Flare Joint (pipe connection where leaks commonly occur if not tightened properly).

At the end of the day, vacuuming is not an optional premium service. It is a basic installation requirement. It takes only a little extra time but can significantly improve the efficiency, reliability, and lifespan of your AC.

The next time you buy a new AC, do not just watch the technician mount the indoor and outdoor units. Watch for the vacuum pump as well. That small machine could save you from much bigger problems later.

If your technician refuses to vacuum a brand-new AC, consider it a warning sign and ask for a proper installation.

(I took help from ChatGPT's help for compiling this information and putting it together)

Every summer, thousands of people in India buy a new AC and trust the installation technician to do everything correctly.

Unfortunately, one of the most important installation steps, called vacuuming, is often skipped, rushed, or not done properly. The worst part is that most customers do not even know it exists, so they never ask about it.

Vacuuming is the process of removing air, moisture (water vapour present in the air), and non-condensable gases (unwanted gases like normal air that should not be inside an AC system) from the copper pipes and indoor unit before the refrigerant (cooling gas used by the AC) is released into the system. This is done using a vacuum pump (a machine designed to suck out air and moisture from AC pipes).

Many people think that a brand-new AC does not need vacuuming because it is new. That is incorrect. During installation, copper pipes are cut, connected, and exposed to the atmosphere.

Even a few minutes of exposure can allow humid air and moisture to enter the system. Once moisture gets trapped inside, it can create problems that may not appear immediately but can affect the AC months later.

In India, technicians generally use either a Single Stage Vacuum Pump (standard vacuum machine commonly used for home split ACs) or a Dual Stage Vacuum Pump (more powerful vacuum machine generally used for commercial systems and longer piping runs). For a normal home split AC, a good-quality single-stage pump is usually sufficient if used correctly.

One question that many buyers ask is, "How long should vacuuming take?" There is no exact answer because it depends on the pipe length, humidity level, AC capacity, and vacuum pump quality. However, for most residential split ACs, a proper vacuum process generally takes around 15 to 30 minutes. If a technician connects a pump for only two or three minutes and then disconnects it, that is usually a red flag.

The actual goal is not the time but the vacuum level achieved. Professional technicians use a Micron Gauge (a highly accurate instrument that measures how deep the vacuum is inside the AC system). The ideal target is below 500 microns (a measurement unit used for vacuum level; lower numbers are better). Some technicians only look at their manifold gauge (pressure gauge used during AC installation and servicing), but that does not always confirm a proper deep vacuum.

For those interested in the numbers, a good vacuum should ideally be below 500 microns. On a manifold gauge, it should generally approach around -29.5 to -30 in. Hg (inches of mercury, a vacuum measurement unit).

Many people ask about PSI (pressure measurement unit), but PSI is not the best way to measure vacuum quality. A proper deep vacuum is roughly equivalent to -14.7 PSI relative to atmospheric pressure, but micron readings are far more accurate and reliable.

When vacuuming is skipped, moisture remains trapped inside the system. This moisture can react with refrigerant oil (lubricating oil used inside the compressor) and eventually form acids. Over time, these acids can damage internal components, corrode copper surfaces, reduce cooling efficiency, increase electricity consumption, and shorten compressor life. In severe cases, moisture can freeze and create restrictions inside the system, leading to cooling problems and expensive repairs.

One thing I find interesting is the number of excuses some technicians give for avoiding vacuuming. Common examples include:

• "Sir, AC naya hai, vacuum ki zarurat nahi hai."
• "Gas leak ho jayega."
• "Company vacuum karne ko nahi bolti."
• "Humne pressure check kar liya, woh enough hai."
• "Time nahi hai."
• "AC waise bhi cooling karega."

The truth is that pressure testing (checking whether there is a leak in the piping) and vacuuming are two completely different procedures.

One cannot replace the other. Also, almost every major AC manufacturer mentions evacuation or vacuuming in their installation guidelines.

As a customer, you can easily verify whether proper vacuuming is being done. Ask the technician to show the vacuum pump before installation begins. Ask how long the vacuum process will run.

If possible, ask what vacuum reading was achieved. Observe whether the outdoor unit valves (valves that hold the factory refrigerant charge inside the outdoor unit) remain closed during vacuuming. The refrigerant should normally be released only after proper vacuum has been completed.

A few technical terms that every AC buyer should know are Vacuum Pump (machine that removes air and moisture), Micron (unit used to measure vacuum quality), Manifold Gauge (pressure gauge set used by technicians), Refrigerant (cooling gas), Service Port (connection point where gauges and vacuum pumps are attached), and Flare Joint (pipe connection where leaks commonly occur if not tightened properly).

At the end of the day, vacuuming is not an optional premium service. It is a basic installation requirement. It takes only a little extra time but can significantly improve the efficiency, reliability, and lifespan of your AC.

The next time you buy a new AC, do not just watch the technician mount the indoor and outdoor units. Watch for the vacuum pump as well. That small machine could save you from much bigger problems later.

If your technician refuses to vacuum a brand-new AC, consider it a warning sign and ask for a proper installation.

(I took help from ChatGPT's help for compiling this information and putting it together)

Every summer, thousands of people in India buy a new AC and trust the installation technician to do everything correctly.

Unfortunately, one of the most important installation steps, called vacuuming, is often skipped, rushed, or not done properly. The worst part is that most customers do not even know it exists, so they never ask about it.

Vacuuming is the process of removing air, moisture (water vapour present in the air), and non-condensable gases (unwanted gases like normal air that should not be inside an AC system) from the copper pipes and indoor unit before the refrigerant (cooling gas used by the AC) is released into the system. This is done using a vacuum pump (a machine designed to suck out air and moisture from AC pipes).

Many people think that a brand-new AC does not need vacuuming because it is new. That is incorrect. During installation, copper pipes are cut, connected, and exposed to the atmosphere.

Even a few minutes of exposure can allow humid air and moisture to enter the system. Once moisture gets trapped inside, it can create problems that may not appear immediately but can affect the AC months later.

In India, technicians generally use either a Single Stage Vacuum Pump (standard vacuum machine commonly used for home split ACs) or a Dual Stage Vacuum Pump (more powerful vacuum machine generally used for commercial systems and longer piping runs). For a normal home split AC, a good-quality single-stage pump is usually sufficient if used correctly.

One question that many buyers ask is, "How long should vacuuming take?" There is no exact answer because it depends on the pipe length, humidity level, AC capacity, and vacuum pump quality. However, for most residential split ACs, a proper vacuum process generally takes around 15 to 30 minutes. If a technician connects a pump for only two or three minutes and then disconnects it, that is usually a red flag.

The actual goal is not the time but the vacuum level achieved. Professional technicians use a Micron Gauge (a highly accurate instrument that measures how deep the vacuum is inside the AC system). The ideal target is below 500 microns (a measurement unit used for vacuum level; lower numbers are better). Some technicians only look at their manifold gauge (pressure gauge used during AC installation and servicing), but that does not always confirm a proper deep vacuum.

For those interested in the numbers, a good vacuum should ideally be below 500 microns. On a manifold gauge, it should generally approach around -29.5 to -30 in. Hg (inches of mercury, a vacuum measurement unit).

Many people ask about PSI (pressure measurement unit), but PSI is not the best way to measure vacuum quality. A proper deep vacuum is roughly equivalent to -14.7 PSI relative to atmospheric pressure, but micron readings are far more accurate and reliable.

When vacuuming is skipped, moisture remains trapped inside the system. This moisture can react with refrigerant oil (lubricating oil used inside the compressor) and eventually form acids. Over time, these acids can damage internal components, corrode copper surfaces, reduce cooling efficiency, increase electricity consumption, and shorten compressor life. In severe cases, moisture can freeze and create restrictions inside the system, leading to cooling problems and expensive repairs.

One thing I find interesting is the number of excuses some technicians give for avoiding vacuuming. Common examples include:

• "Sir, AC naya hai, vacuum ki zarurat nahi hai."
• "Gas leak ho jayega."
• "Company vacuum karne ko nahi bolti."
• "Humne pressure check kar liya, woh enough hai."
• "Time nahi hai."
• "AC waise bhi cooling karega."

The truth is that pressure testing (checking whether there is a leak in the piping) and vacuuming are two completely different procedures.

One cannot replace the other. Also, almost every major AC manufacturer mentions evacuation or vacuuming in their installation guidelines.

As a customer, you can easily verify whether proper vacuuming is being done. Ask the technician to show the vacuum pump before installation begins. Ask how long the vacuum process will run.

If possible, ask what vacuum reading was achieved. Observe whether the outdoor unit valves (valves that hold the factory refrigerant charge inside the outdoor unit) remain closed during vacuuming. The refrigerant should normally be released only after proper vacuum has been completed.

A few technical terms that every AC buyer should know are Vacuum Pump (machine that removes air and moisture), Micron (unit used to measure vacuum quality), Manifold Gauge (pressure gauge set used by technicians), Refrigerant (cooling gas), Service Port (connection point where gauges and vacuum pumps are attached), and Flare Joint (pipe connection where leaks commonly occur if not tightened properly).

At the end of the day, vacuuming is not an optional premium service. It is a basic installation requirement. It takes only a little extra time but can significantly improve the efficiency, reliability, and lifespan of your AC.

The next time you buy a new AC, do not just watch the technician mount the indoor and outdoor units. Watch for the vacuum pump as well. That small machine could save you from much bigger problems later.

If your technician refuses to vacuum a brand-new AC, consider it a warning sign and ask for a proper installation.

(I took help from ChatGPT's help for compiling this information and putting it together)

I have a pretty old computer that is only used by my niece for general gaming. Suddenly, I noticed that the CPU FAN is not working. Where do you suggest I can get this FAN online or offline?

Fan Image here -
https://ibb.co/DfZS1CjS

https://ibb.co/VWc8cv8T

So, the LG rep sent me this and insisted me to buy the AMC within the first 30 days of purchasing the AC.

I know this brings peace of mind as the AMC warranty starts only after the standard 1 year comp. warranty expires.

What would you'll suggest ?

Recently purchased LG 1 Ton 4 Star Inverter AC, Model No. AS-Q13JNYE (White) from Amazon India for Rs. 31,581. (Card discount included).

This model was actually a 5 star model in 2025 and re-rated in 2026 to 4 star by Bureau of Energy Efficiency (BEE).

I was specifically looking for an AC from a brand that I already trusted, hence decided to go with LG again. My main requirements were:

1. 4 Way Swing
2. Backlit Remote
3. Good After Sales Service
4. Decent Display on the Indoor Unit with On/Off Option (My old Hitachi AC did not have a proper display option)
5. Power Saving Features
6. Very Accurate Tonnage (3500Watts = 0.995208 Tonnage) 1Ton of Refrigeration (TR) approx 3,516.85 Watts.

Since the Outdoor Unit and Indoor Unit distance was within 3 meters, I did not require any extra copper pipe installation.

Initially, I was slightly worried about vibration from the Outdoor Unit because it is installed just outside the same wall. However, the LG service technician suggested adding extra Rubber Bush for vibration isolation. This actually worked very well and vibration became negligible. And honestly both ODU and IDU are super silent. 

Amazon delivered the AC within 2 days. The installation engineer called on the same day. I clearly informed them beforehand to bring a vacuum pump for proper installation. They said it was not available that day, so installation was scheduled for the next day.

As discussed, the installation team arrived the next day with the vacuum machine. Installation was done very neatly and professionally. They vacuumed the unit properly for around 30 to 35 minutes.

Installation charges were:

1. Installation Charges: Rs. 1415 (Rs. 1199 + GST)
2. Labour Charges for fixing stand: Rs. 200
3. 4 Rubber Bushes: Rs. 200

The service team was sent by LG but managed through a third-party service partner. Overall, I am very satisfied with their work quality and behaviour.

I had already purchased the following items separately from Amazon before installation:

1. Outdoor Unit Stand
2. 2 X  3-Pin Plug Tops (Stabilizer and AC)
3. V-Guard Stabilizer
4. 3 Meter Drain Pipe
5. Adhesive Taping Rolls (2 Nos.)
6. Birla White Cement

Adding to all of these, I purchased a Tapo P110 Smart Plug to monitor initial power consumption in kWh. I am not sure how perfectly accurate the readings are, but it gives a decent ballpark figure regarding electricity usage. I have seen the numbers going upto 1200 watts during Viraat mode and down by 190 watts during DC (Diet Mode), the LG's power saving mode.

Some features that I liked in this LG AC:

1. Newly redesigned remote with backlit buttons
2. Room temperature checking option in remote
3. 6-in-1 Convertible Mode
4. Viraat Mode (Other AC has different names such as Turbo etc.)
5. Diet Mode
6. Indoor Unit display can be turned On or Off
7. Unit can be powered ON from AC IDU (Hidden inside the Flap).

The room temperature check feature is quite useful because the AC can display the current room temperature using the sensor connected to the Indoor Unit. This helps compare actual room temperature with the AC set temperature.

Wrapping thing up, I am happy with the purchase experience till now.

Now I need to look for AMC options after the standard warranty period. If anyone has suggestions or advice regarding AMC plans for LG ACs, please let me know.

Thanks!!

Hi, I need an AC for my 10x10 room and I have shortlisted this AC. However, I do not find any AI features or WIFI in this model. So, before making this purchase decision I also want to know from you guys about Panasonic 1 Ton that has WiFi features.

I have other LG products and so far my experience with those have been very satisfying.

Any one already using LG, can you please help me with my decision ?

Tysm !!