u/jyl8

Keep Or Replace Speed Queen W/D?

Hi everyone. I am converting an old building into a cafe. We want to have laundry in the basement, to wash our towels etc.

I have Speed Queen coin-op top loader washer and dryer, that came with the building. I don’t know their age, they were working when we bought. I gather the commercial Speed Queens are well regarded.

Unfortunately their previous location is now occupied by the grease interceptor, so whereever I put them, I’ll need to install a vent which may be inconvenient (basement).

I saw a used Fisher & Playkel washer/dryer set for $500. WH2424P1 and DE4024P1, stackable, front loading, santize and steam features, and the dryer is ventless. I see these sell for about $1,000 each so $500 seems like a good deal.

I think I can sell the Speed Queens for more than the used F & P will cost.

What do you think? Should I keep the Speed Queens

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u/jyl8 — 12 hours ago

Bosch 360 Laser Levels

Hi everyone, I have a question about Bosch laser levels, well about laser levels generally but I’ve been looking at Bosch ones.

I have bought my share of cheap Chinese no-name laser levels, and been disappointed. I think it’s time to spend the money for a good 360 laser level that will do everything I need.

The laser has to be clearly visible in a sunlit room and outdoors on a sunny day. I don’t need big distance, will be usually working in an area 50 ft across. And it has to be a quality product, the last one I’ll buy.

Which Bosch 360 laser would work for my needs? I see the GLL 3-330-CQ looks like the top model but is it overkill for me? Is there a different brand you’d recommend instead?

Thank you!

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u/jyl8 — 1 day ago
▲ 8 r/Makita

What Are The Makita Tools You Most Recently Bought? What Are The Next Ones You’ll Get?

As asked . . . just curious to see what everyone is using and getting.

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u/jyl8 — 1 day ago

Steel Blue Southern Cross Zip

I’ve been wearing these boots every day at the project for about a month, so I thought I’d give a little review.

My Danner Elk Hunter boots were being worn there, but I didn’t like beating them up so much. I’ve had them for 30 years and don’t want them to end their life deep in demo’d lath and plaster, rat droppings in cellulose, century-old lumber with rusty nails, and sawdust-drywall-crumbled concrete-muddy water goop. They were meant for the mountains and forest and snow, not a dirty worksite.

I switched to some daily wear Cole-Haan sneakers, which were comfy but got thrashed about like you’d expect, plus the soles were transparent to nails. Ouch x 3.

Clearly I needed some workboots with puncture-resistant soles, that would be comfortable right off the bat, endure, and that I didn’t care too much about.

The Southern Cross zips seem pretty tough. I haven’t had them long enough to say if they will last and last, but they are built beefy with good leather and a thick, grippy, resilient outsole. I can attest to them being impervious to nails no matter how heavily stepped on. The toe cap looks goofy but you can crawl all you like without wearing the boot toe out. I haven’t needed the steel toe. At the rear, the cuff is cut away, supposedly for more comfortable driving; I’m not sold on that feature, preferring more Achilles tendon protection. The zipper is very heavy duty and gusseted for water resistance - the boots claim “waterresistance” not “waterproof” like my Danners. I like being able to get the boots on and off quickly, but if I cinch the laces tight for maximum ankle support, the zipper opening isn’t enough to get my right foot in or out, probably due to an old injury and less range of motion there. The Southern Cross comes with the best innersole I’ve seen in a boots, cushy yet supportive, supposedly endorsed by some medical group. I need more arch support, so swapped in my usual blue Superfeet, which felt hard after the stock innersole, so I cut some 1/4” closed cell foam as a second layer, which worked well. I haven’t really tested their water resistance.

I conditioned the boots today, which really changed their look and, in my opinion, not for the better. Well, mink oil and beeswax never hurt a boot and I imagine they will dry out and regain their lighter shade eventually.

I’m happy with these boots. They aren’t “lifetime” boots like my Danners, but I imagine they’ll last me a couple-few years.,

u/jyl8 — 3 days ago

Show Your Transit Connect Work Van Buildout

Are you using your TC as a proper trades work van? Have you customized the interior to hold the tools, equipment, supplies for your work? Is it kind of cool in a geeky way?

Show us?!

I’m helping an electrician friend build out her TC and trying to get some ideas.

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u/jyl8 — 4 days ago
▲ 70 r/Makita

NTD: Makita Drywall Saw

I’ve been productive today. Doing a bunch of drywall soon, patching areas we tore out lath & plaster from little strips under the baseboards (rewiring and replacing outlets) to entire walls (cutting out knob & tube, rewiring new home runs) to entire ceilings (seismic retrofit, new plumbing, sistering joists).

I have been using a 3.5” CXT baby circular saw to cut lath and plaster, it works but is very messy and I think it’s tough on the saw, inhaling all that plaster.

Heard about the Makita drywall saw, looks great, but $299 tool only . . .

Got a used one for $140 with a 5.0 Ah battery. He had two, the other one was dark green (?) but was missing the dust collector box.

u/jyl8 — 4 days ago
▲ 2 r/Makita

NTD: LS1219L new to me

I’ve been needing a compound miter saw. Corded with 12” blade.

Narrowed down to Bosch GCM12SD or Makita LS1219L. Bosch mechanism is (way) cooler but from reviews Makita seems to have some advantages. But Bosch is $630 on sale at Home Depot or $550 NIB from a (reliable) guy on Facebook Marketplace. Makita isn’t on sale anywhere I found, only at list price of $930 ish. But I found this one on FBM, being sold by a flooring contractor, they liked the saw but the crew complained how heavy it was to lift and carry from van to site. So they put it up for $500.

Not like-new but not far off. Works a treat. Even the laser works :-) I need to replace the screws that hold the wing extension rods into the extensions, and check true, that’s all I’m finding.

Looking for a stand. You all like the stick-with-folding-legs or the wheeled gravity stands?

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u/jyl8 — 4 days ago

How To Theft-Harden A TC Work Van?

First gen Transit Connect, bought to be an electrician’s work van.

Looking for suggestions on how to theft-harden it.

Currently has the glass rear door windows and

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u/jyl8 — 4 days ago
▲ 6 r/Makita

Mistake To Not Do Multi-Volt?

curious if it was a mistake for Makita to not do multivolt (18v / 36v or 18v / 54v) instead of introducing a new 40v line. What do those more knowledgeable than I think?

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u/jyl8 — 4 days ago
▲ 6 r/Tools

Laser Level 360.

I’m looking to get a laser level that does three planes (360 x 3). Should be usable in a large sunny room. Seems like lots of companies make these. I’ve bought cheap laser levels before; am now looking for a “keeper”, as in the last laser level I’ll buy.

What do you all like? How are the DeWalt and Bosch levels?

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u/jyl8 — 6 days ago

Hot Water Dispenser?

I’m building out a coffee shop with a very small coffee bar and an even smaller back-of-bar. Space is so tight that the drip brewer will live in the kitchen and we’ll just have the airpots at the coffee bar.

The standard big tall hot water dispenser takes up a lot of counter room.

So I’m thinking of plumbing to an undercounter electric instant hot water dispenser with a faucet at the barista station.

Any thoughts on this? Is it legal, practical, desirable? Have you tried it?

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u/jyl8 — 7 days ago
▲ 5 r/Tools

Do You Have Multiple Cordless “Systems”? Which And Why?

I’m a “Makita guy”. As I built the basic collection of cordless tools, I bought everything in LXT. The tools are good and I have the batteries.

My corded tools have always been a mix, but for decades, even going back to the NiCAD/NiMH days, it was nothing but teal in my cordless quiver. Drill/driver x 2, impact driver x2, circular saw, orbital sander, brad nailer, pin nailer, angle drill, angle impact driver, recip saw, hammer drill, blower, etc.

Recently, though, I’ve bought a few non-Makita cordless tools.

In two cases, Makita doesn’t make the tool, so I got the bright red Milwaukee M18 power drain auger/snake (expensive, but saved an equally expensive plumber’s house call) and the dark blue Bosch 12v Flexiclick installation driver kit (my dad gave one to my son, I was impressed and saw the kit for only $129 at AcmeTools).

In one case, the other tool was just better for my purposes than the Makita 18v framing nailer that weighs 12 freaking pounds! so I got the four pounds lighter bright orange Paslode XP30Pro framing nailer.

And in one case, I liked the corded tool so much that I couldn’t resist the cordless version when it popped up used, so I got the muted orange Fein multitool (the older, pre-Ampshare tool) kit.

Well, that bandaid is now ripped off, so I’m thinking - maybe I should venture further into the world of red or blue? Or even orange, while my used Fein uses the old batteries (though I did get an adapter for Makita) I gather the current Ampshare Feins might be able to use LXT (?) and Makita don’t make a positive placement nailer, so if I get one it’ll be another Paslode.

Have you found yourself with multiple cordless systems? Why did you do it, does each family serve a different purpose or was it just some random impulses and there you were, a tool polygamist?

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u/jyl8 — 7 days ago
▲ 1 r/Tile

Schulter-Ditra over Hardie over old wood board subfloor?

I’m tiling a the floor of small (5’ x 5’) bathroom, and need it to be waterproof as we’ll have a floor drain. It is a 1907 house, the floor structure is 3/4” diagonal wood board subfloor over wood joists. I am planning to use Ditra membrane for waterproof-ness and for uncoupling.

The subfloor, being 120 years old, is not that smooth and has gaps between boards. I’m thinking of using a layer of Hardie cement board to give the Ditra a smooth continuous surface to sit on, and shim the Hardie to slope the floor toward the center floor drain.

So from the bottom up, we’ll have
- Wood board subfloor
- Hardie
- Ditra
- Tile (large hex terracotta)

Any red flags with this?

Thank you. I have not tiled a floor since my young adult first house days - and Ditra didn’t exist then.

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u/jyl8 — 10 days ago

Indoor Trash Bin Area, Commercial Building - Does It Need A Floor Drain?

Portland, OR, USA.

Converting old single family house to cafe. Trash/recycling bin area will be inside a shed attached to the building. Does that area have to be drained to sewer?

I gather if the trash/recycling were outdoors, it would have to be fenced, with a curb and drain to sewer. But this is indoors.

Thanks!

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u/jyl8 — 11 days ago

Used Transit Connect And Alternstives (US)?

Hi! I’m helping my electrician friend look for a used, small work van. She wants a Transit Connect and has a very low budget.

We can do repairs, e.g. transmission replacement, in my shop with free labor, she pays for parts and any outside services. Driving will be urban short distances; 5 miles to jobsite then sit parked all day. We’ll fit rack, shelves, partition.

I don’t know much/anything about these vehicles. I see the last gen 1s (2011) as low as $3000 and usually have 200K+ miles; gen 2s (2012-2020) are all over the place in price, mileage, and condition; later gen 2 and all gen 3 are out of her budget.

Thoughts on how these hold up to high mileage, common expensive problems, parts cost and availability now and future

. . . and alternatives? Feels like there must have been similar vehicles sold in the US.

Thank you!

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u/jyl8 — 12 days ago

My First Milwaukee Purchase

The box and bucket sealed the choice, of course. Multi-use!

Ryobi makes one for $170 cheaper but there are more Milwaukee tools I may want in the future than Ryobi tools, and no bucket with the Ryobi . . .

(Makita user here, but they don’t make a power drain auger. There are some other specialized Milwaukee tools that Makita doesn’t have. So I’m putting a toe on the red ocean.)

u/jyl8 — 13 days ago

Replacement for Bosch GCM12SD Compound Miter Saw?

I hope its ok to ask about the corded Bosch tool here.

I'm looking at buying a compound miter saw, and am considering the Bosch GCM12SD. However, I hear there may be a new model coming. Does anyone know about it and if it will be better/worse and more/less expensive than the GCM12SD?

Thank you.

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u/jyl8 — 13 days ago
▲ 9 r/Makita

I often see Makita tools on Craigslist or FB Marketplace, with multiple batteries. Often these are clean tools + batteries with minimal signs of use.

The tools themselves are often duplicates of what I already have (drill + driver combos etc), but the prices look like real bargains just for the batteries. The more interesting tools tend to be sold tool-only.

Do you think this is a thrifty way to get batteries? And I guess an extra driver as a spare?

Or do you think the chances of getting a worn out or damaged battery or a fake battery are too high?

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u/jyl8 — 14 days ago
▲ 2 r/Makita

I noticed that Milwaukee has gone heavy into specialized industrial trade tools. ProPress, cable strippers, rod threaders, PEX expander, transfer pumps, drain inspection and augers, meters and imaging tools, conduit bender, on and on.

Makita seems to be “behind” in this area. The acquisition of Panasonic seems to be aimed at catching up.

Do you think this is a good idea for Makita?

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u/jyl8 — 15 days ago
▲ 14 r/Makita

Since we have (not literally have yet but soon can have) the right angle impact rated drill extender thingy (very cool), what would you like the Makita elves to bring us next? Could be a totally new to Makita tool, or a very much improved version of an underwhelming current tool.

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u/jyl8 — 18 days ago